No lift high steer

Started by jrock, August 12, 2009, 01:37:40 PM

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jrock

Really just no aftermarket front hanger. I want to see pictures and write-ups of what people have done. I have a flat pitman and everything but I'm curious as to what types of issues I will or could run into.  :help:

Tallchevy

When I was looking into doing a sas on my 3rd gen I was told that you need a min 3" lift to run high steer so the drag link & tie rod can clear the springs. I do remember a thread on here where someone installed high steer with no lift.
:angry: My child is an honor student at Anton Levay's School of Satanic Arts :angry:

87 4Runner redo
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=41959.0
87 Toyota 4Runner, SAS Rig Gallery
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=29877.msg3

jrock

There is one on Pirate. It looks like the box will be able to fit without interfering with the spring if mounted more vertical.

79coyotefrg

i think if you mount the box right you can do it fine, i dont have a drop hanger up front and my 5 inch Allpro springs will hit the drag link if i stuff it hard

  i think a flat pitman would fix that though
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

79coyotefrg

AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

MiniSimp

Mount the flat pitman arm on your box and line it up as high as possible.
Notch the frame for the drag link TRE nut so it goes through the bottom of the frame.
The only clearance issue you will have after that is your lower radiator neck on the engine and your oil pan, both can be solved with minor bump stops.

8D3TOY

Downey offers a high steer cross over setup for their springs and they only go 2-3" so maybe their arms may be flatter.

ninja turtle

#7
 :eyebrow:

jrock

Quote from: MiniSimp on August 13, 2009, 07:55:36 AM
Mount the flat pitman arm on your box and line it up as high as possible.
Notch the frame for the drag link TRE nut so it goes through the bottom of the frame.
The only clearance issue you will have after that is your lower radiator neck on the engine and your oil pan, both can be solved with minor bump stops.

As far as the oil pan and radiator neck, does someone any company make a 1inch engine lift?

I anticipated the draglink causing issues so I have been looking into the best way to notch and brace the frame. I was thinking of 1/4inch wall pipe, cut in half. Ideas?

ninja turtle

#9
 :dunno:

84t0y

not sure if someone mentioned it but in the thread i read on pirate where someone used highsteer and no lift they had problems with the oil pan interfering.

jrock

Quote from: 84t0y on August 15, 2009, 10:41:50 AM
not sure if someone mentioned it but in the thread i read on pirate where someone used highsteer and no lift they had problems with the oil pan interfering.
Yeah, I've been looking for it, I've read it once but can't find it again. He cut and put a drop in the draglink to clear the oil pan.

studentwheeler

I'm really interested to see how this turns out/ if you can do it...exactly what I want to do.

jrock

Quote from: studentwheeler on August 18, 2009, 08:54:19 PM
I'm really interested to see how this turns out/ if you can do it...exactly what I want to do.
:thumbs:

89sastoyo

a really good way to do this is notch the frame where the drag link and nut on the pitman arm go. When I solid axled my buddys truck its got stock rears and I had about 1/16th of and inch to the frame and I just grinded the end of the tie rod end down.
89 extra cab stock on 1 tons.
83 rolled with built toy axles
92 2wd DD
first gen cab

Check out the build.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=56487.0

jrock

#15
So I picked up some 3''OD 3/8''wall pipe to use for bracing the frame. Now I have everything but a welder and time.  :thumbdown:

This is what I'm thinking and the same for the other side for the draglink.

bleakhorizon

lol im going ta do the same thing with some round stock..... but i have the welder, and time, but no money or material..... just make sure you get the box where you want cause it would prob be a pain to move it further forward..

Im gona do my RUFS when i do the steering box so i got a couple more things to gatherer up before i can do it....

when i look at mine it seems as if the draglink will hit the oil pan in the stock spring location are you going to do the engine lift?
Quote from: junya92toy on January 03, 2013, 07:48:53 PM
Those are some huge welds!

Tillamook, OR

jrock

I've been looking at the Roger Brown kit but haven't found out if I will need it yet, I probably will. RUFs will follow once the steering is done. :)

WHITE_TRASH

Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

jrock


WHITE_TRASH

Whatever you do don't do the drivetrain lift.. It's fawking retarded, you might as well just do the suspension lift at that point.  Why raise the engine weight yet leave the frame hanging down low when you can just do a small suspension lift and gain the ground clearance...

Don't think I'm trying to talk you out of the no lift thing though...  I'm all about the low riders, my junk sits with the frame/flat belly at 25" from the ground on 44's...  Do the math that's a low biotch especially with leaf springs. :gap:
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

jrock

Well I looked at this again and I really want to do it BUT I don't want to be down and out for MCR. I was looking at what would interfere with the drag link and I'm pretty sure nothing will... pretty sure. The mounting kit for my Box won't work. It just isn't the correct shape. I need my box to be mounted as vertical as possible so the flat pitman can be flush against the frame.

What thickness plate should I use to reinforce the frame?

WHITE_TRASH

Minimum 3/16" IMO but I usually use 1/4" because it's handy.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

jrock

Cool, thanks. I reasoned with myself and will wait until after MCR to do this. This gives me a bit more time for lockers :) .

hotrod

Has anybody checked to see how much room there is between the oil pan and the pickup tube? I wonder if there is enough room to get a little more tie rod clearance.
David - 83 SR5 longbed, 20/22r, locked f/r, w-56, 33 km2

WHITE_TRASH

Quote from: hotrod on August 26, 2009, 03:15:03 PM
Has anybody checked to see how much room there is between the oil pan and the pickup tube? I wonder if there is enough room to get a little more tie rod clearance.



If your engine is that far forward you have more issues than the pan hitting the tie rod... :hahaha:
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

jrock

Is there a simple way of clearancing the oil pan? Like heating it up and hitting it with a hammer or would I have to cut and weld stuff?

WHITE_TRASH

Why heat it up?  Just whack it with a hammer and be done with it.  hit it a few times and turn the engine over by hand to be sure the crank is clearing the tie rod.

If you are already doing high steer I'd HIGHLY recommend moving the box as far forward as you can and drilling your perches to move the axle farther forward for more oil pan clearance.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

jrock

Pan clearance would be a last resort, once everything is in. Box is going to be pushed forward as much as possible. I thought by heating it up it would be easier to deform.

WHITE_TRASH

It's tin, just give it a good whack.. :gap:
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??