No lift high steer

Started by jrock, August 12, 2009, 01:37:40 PM

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studentwheeler

#60
September 21, 2009, 09:18:38 PM
Alright jrock I now have all my high steer parts together...just waiting for you to take the plunge and show me how you're gonna do it before I tear into mine.  :idea:

jrock

#61
September 21, 2009, 10:15:45 PM
Quote from: studentwheeler on September 21, 2009, 09:18:38 PM
Alright jrock I now have all my high steer parts together...just waiting for you to take the plunge and show me how you're gonna do it before I tear into mine.  :idea:
Don't hold your breath. I have been known to take a while to start projects  :disturbed: . I'll be on this in the next couple weeks. I have to arrange for a welder.  :biggthumpup:

studentwheeler

#62
September 21, 2009, 10:21:36 PM
Gotchya, me too. I was thinking either borrow one or pick up a used flux core mig...not sure yet.  :dunno:

jrock

#63
September 21, 2009, 10:58:12 PM
I going to be trying, trying hard, to save up and buy a Miller 180. But if I get real motivated, I will call in a favor and get it done sooner. I rented a flux-core from Home Depot, cheap but resulted in cheap welds. NOT good enough for my steering!

peacesells

#64
September 21, 2009, 11:38:02 PM
another 3in lift hight steer, It can be done stock... With proper bumpstops and a flatter than flat pittman arm. I have 1/4 in of clearance the the castle nut, 89 ruf, and a 92 steering box connected perfectly to my steering column shaft without any lenghtening... I did not plan it that way, it just happend.
stock with 32's and inverted 1-2 in front springs (1in of uptravel before bumpstops hit)

3in lift with 35's



best picture of the drag link angle
this my man lysol, fresh out the joint

studentwheeler

#65
September 22, 2009, 10:15:25 PM
Quote from: peacesells63 on September 21, 2009, 11:38:02 PM
another 3in lift hight steer, It can be done stock... With proper bumpstops and a flatter than flat pittman arm. I have 1/4 in of clearance the the castle nut, 89 ruf, and a 92 steering box connected perfectly to my steering column shaft without any lenghtening... I did not plan it that way, it just happend.
stock with 32's and inverted 1-2 in front springs (1in of uptravel before bumpstops hit)


Alright cool!

Perhaps have any up close pics of the location of the box etc?!?!?

jrock

#66
September 22, 2009, 11:27:38 PM
Quote from: studentwheeler on September 22, 2009, 10:15:25 PM
Alright cool!

Perhaps have any up close pics of the location of the box etc?!?!?
X2

peacesells

#67
September 23, 2009, 01:25:44 AM
I will take some in the morning, my front axle is 2-2.5in foreward as well.
this my man lysol, fresh out the joint

MiniSimp

#68
September 23, 2009, 07:34:07 AM
Quote from: peacesells63 on September 21, 2009, 11:38:02 PM
another 3in lift hight steer, It can be done stock...
Could you please measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of your headlight.

NorCalToy

#69
September 24, 2009, 05:11:06 PM
Quote from: MiniSimp on September 23, 2009, 07:34:07 AM
Could you please measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of your headlight.
are you tryin to compare that to stock height then to verify a 3" lift? wouldnt tire size throw that off? (if thats what your tryin to figure out) if not, then carry on as usual.
:willynilly: '89 truck SAS sittin on 35's, Tacoma rear axle w/ E-Locker, welded front

kneedownnate - You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable

iɹǝʌo ǝɯ ııoɹ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı

:flamer: IFS

jrock

#70
September 24, 2009, 06:06:04 PM
I'm curious as to the height of the total lift. Tires and everything.

peacesells

#71
September 25, 2009, 01:27:16 AM
Quote from: MiniSimp on September 23, 2009, 07:34:07 AM
Could you please measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of your headlight.

Tomorrow I will, forgot about the pics. keep in mind, the pics with 32's on my truck were with 1-2in inverted/kinked springs. I had 1in from the bump stops sitting on level ground. Im right around 3 inches, lift that is.. :conf:
this my man lysol, fresh out the joint

peacesells

#72
September 25, 2009, 01:32:39 AM
Better pic comparison, stock with 29's(3inches of tire lift compared to 35's)

35's
this my man lysol, fresh out the joint

studentwheeler

#73
October 05, 2009, 10:28:51 PM
any update on your progress? I started tearing my truck apart tonight. Going to add another leaf up front to give her a tad more lift and then its on to the box location...

jrock

#74
October 06, 2009, 08:46:11 AM
Nothing for me yet. Now I'm working, I have money but no time and no time to have my DD down. I await your progress. :)

4x4yota

#75
October 06, 2009, 08:47:56 AM
been driving mine for a couple weeks now and my springs settled in some and its still doing great just need an alignment
Current:
85 yota 4x4 http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101931.new#new
Sold:
81 Yota 4x4 - http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=61025.0

Just remember that if the tires don't rub, then the tires ain't big enough -Runar

studentwheeler

#76
October 06, 2009, 09:57:13 PM
Quote from: 4x4yota on October 06, 2009, 08:47:56 AM
been driving mine for a couple weeks now and my springs settled in some and its still doing great just need an alignment

Are you running mixed RUF's? What does it take to drill new center holes. I'm trying to add a couple leafs to my pack and tried drilling new center holes today and got denied big time. Do i need a special bit or something?

jrock

#77
October 06, 2009, 11:55:05 PM
I have done it with Cobalt bits. It take a long time to get through. Use a lubricant so you don't heat the metal too much.  I also switch back and forth between the large bit and a smaller one. It seems to speed up the process a bit.  :flamer:

studentwheeler

#78
October 07, 2009, 08:43:12 PM
Quote from: jrock on October 06, 2009, 11:55:05 PM
I have done it with Cobalt bits. It take a long time to get through. Use a lubricant so you don't heat the metal too much.  I also switch back and forth between the large bit and a smaller one. It seems to speed up the process a bit.  :flamer:

Gave it a shot today with cobalt bits and it is sllllloooooooowwwwww  :turtle3: going...I'm gonna see how much a machine shop would charge to do it tomorrow.

jrock

#79
October 07, 2009, 09:03:50 PM
I think it takes me like 5 to 10 minutes. SLOW going indeed.

WHITE_TRASH

#80
October 07, 2009, 11:38:40 PM
I REALLY hope you guys aren't talking about drilling the leaf springs themselves are you?  Cause if you are you just fawked up huge and your springs WILL break right where you drilled them.  You are supposed to drill the spring perches on the axle back about 1 3/8" to move the axle forward.... 
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

jrock

#81
October 08, 2009, 09:39:05 AM
No I was talking about the springs themselves. I don't know what reason ST is drilling them but I did because I had one leaf that had the bolt hole 1/2in off of where it was suppose to be. So I fixed it.

WHITE_TRASH

#82
October 08, 2009, 09:41:19 AM
Quote from: jrock on October 08, 2009, 09:39:05 AM
No I was talking about the springs themselves. I don't know what reason ST is drilling them but I did because I had one leaf that had the bolt hole 1/2in off of where it was suppose to be. So I drilled it so it can break later.


fixeded


NEVER drill a hold in a leaf spring, it WILL break. ;)
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

studentwheeler

#83
October 08, 2009, 04:55:40 PM
ok I'll exnay on the drilling of new holes...I have rears up front and want to throw a couple other leaves from a front pack in there and figured I'd drill new holes in the new leafs so that they would be centered in the pack...looks like the alternative is to cut the leaves to fit evenly instead of drilling new holes? I hope this makes sense to those that are reading...

89sastoyo

#84
October 08, 2009, 05:46:52 PM
haha yeah you just mix according to what you have in length and then cut them 3-4 inches shorter so its like a staircase almost. Just make sure you dont put lift springs in with de-arched ones because it will cause a lot of friction and i have seen springs break when people mix then that way also.
89 extra cab stock on 1 tons.
83 rolled with built toy axles
92 2wd DD
first gen cab

Check out the build.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=56487.0

studentwheeler

#85
October 08, 2009, 07:15:21 PM
Quote from: 89sastoyo on October 08, 2009, 05:46:52 PM
haha yeah you just mix according to what you have in length and then cut them 3-4 inches shorter so its like a staircase almost. Just make sure you dont put lift springs in with de-arched ones because it will cause a lot of friction and i have seen springs break when people mix then that way also.

Alright gotchya  :thumbs: Springs all have good arch so I think I'm good there...gonna go see if my sawzall can cut it  :flamer:

toyyota

#86
October 08, 2009, 07:28:30 PM
Give up on the saws all...A chop saw with abrasive wheel cuts like BUTTER.

studentwheeler

#87
October 08, 2009, 08:31:39 PM
Quote from: toyyota on October 08, 2009, 07:28:30 PM
Give up on the saws all...A chop saw with abrasive wheel cuts like BUTTER.

Yeaup, sawzall is a no go...time to invest in a chop saw.

jrock

#88
October 08, 2009, 10:05:32 PM
Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on October 08, 2009, 09:41:19 AM

fixeded


NEVER drill a hold in a leaf spring, it WILL break. ;)
:funny: :muscles: :nana: Toyota springs haven't yet.  :gap:

WHITE_TRASH

#89
October 09, 2009, 03:46:45 AM
Quote from: jrock on October 08, 2009, 10:05:32 PM
Toyota springs haven't yet. 

Keyword....  :talkingn:
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??
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