No lift high steer

[jrock]

 

Page Four! 

[toyyota]

So, Do we have springs?

[jmac]

My springs were sagging up front and I had a wrecked '89 out back.  Took the rears off the 89 and used the lower two springs (overload and regular spring) and slid those in place of the lower two in the front.  No cutting required, but I think they are mounted opposite from the back stack (rear faces front and vise versa).  It seriously stiffened up the ride and the overload gave me some lift.  I've been fairly happy so far (especially with the price).  Also you can do everything without loosening from hangers using a jack and pry bar.

If you do this the stock u-bolts will barely reach (overloads are thicker than normal springs.  I got the nut on all the way but just barely; I was waiting on it to strip (may have gotten lucky).  Also had to grind u-bolt corner to allow push pull steering to clear with increased stack thickness. 

One day I will have money and can buy nice things like high steer.........ha ha. 

[studentwheeler]

Ok on with my build! tore my truck apart to prep for no/minimal lift histeer. Added an extra leaf to my ruf's and gave me the arch i needed. (springs were flat before) Tomorrow will be removing old box etc. I'll figure out how to post pics.

What do people use to cut the front firewall? Ive got a sawzall and a grinder with cutoff blades...

here it is with he new leafs:

[studentwheeler]

and with flat spring packs up front:

[4x4yota]

I did have to cut any firewall all I did was use one of the stock holes and drilled it through and lined up the others and it worked perfectly I still have room to move my axle another 1-2" forward

[Halladay]

When I was looking into doing a sas on my 3rd gen I was told that you need a min 3" lift to run high steer so the drag link & tie rod can clear the springs. I do remember a thread on here where someone installed high steer with no lift.

when i did my SAS i had bone stock rears in the front with some bannana shackles.. springs were de-arched so you can say i had no lift... check my build in my sig i have pics....

[studentwheeler]

I did have to cut any firewall all I did was use one of the stock holes and drilled it through and lined up the others and it worked perfectly I still have room to move my axle another 1-2" forward

Let me get this straight: you did NOT have to cut anything to make your box fit?

[jrock]

Depends on how far forward you want to put it.

[4x4yota]

Let me get this straight: you did NOT have to cut anything to make your box fit?

sorry forgot the not lol

[jrock]

Swheeler, lets see some flex pics. Show the clearance between the steering.

[studentwheeler]

Swheeler, lets see some flex pics. Show the clearance between the steering.

It's in my garage right now. Steering is all apart getting ready to put the box and hi-steer in. Just threw the tires on after adding the leaf to see where it would sit...will get flex pics first thing once I get it all together.

[jrock]

 

[studentwheeler]

Up-dated progress: Got the old box out, cut off the bracket on the back of the frame and mocked up the box location. 4x4yota: I mocked it up using one of the stock bolt holes; if everything works I won't have to do any cutting with it in this location.

[jrock]

Nice.

[studentwheeler]

Got a bit more work done tonight: finished cutting off the bracket on the back side of the frame and grinded everything smooth. Put all my hi-steer parts on to mock everything up to see how it all lines up. Let me know how the drag link and tie rod look, they are parallel. Under hard stuff is there any chance of the two coming in contact? That is the main thing I am worried about.

Pictures are of the box vertical and rotated forward:

[BUDDERS]

I would go with the box rotated forward position if it clears your oil pan and crank pulley ok.  Your just going to have to make your bumpstops so the right side of the drag link doesn't hit the frame under full stuff.  The left side rubber bump stop doesn't look like it will hit the metal you welded onto the frame....or is that just the angle on the pic?

[studentwheeler]

I would go with the box rotated forward position if it clears your oil pan and crank pulley ok.  Your just going to have to make your bumpstops so the right side of the drag link doesn't hit the frame under full stuff.  The left side rubber bump stop doesn't look like it will hit the metal you welded onto the frame....or is that just the angle on the pic?

Yea I think rotating it up so that the castle nut on the pitman arm is real close to the frame is the best. You are right on the bump stop. They are currently set up for stock springs. These are RUF's so the axle is forward now. Will be doing shock hoops and bump stops next.

[4x4yota]

make sure you atleast have .5-.75" between the frame and castle nut on the pitman arm

[studentwheeler]

make sure you atleast have .5-.75" between the frame and castle nut on the pitman arm

What is the reasoning behind the clearance? Since the pitman arm/castle nut will never move closer (upwards) to the frame why not get it as close as possible?

[BUDDERS]

What is the reasoning behind the clearance? Since the pitman arm/castle nut will never move closer (upwards) to the frame why not get it as close as possible?

I think it's because when the right side is stuffed, the drag link has a greater chance of hitting the frame if the castle nut is closer to it on the driver's side.

Can you put some blocks under your right front wheel to stuff it in the fender well as much as possible (before drilling your frame for the p/s box)?  This will help you determine if you have good enough clearance for the drag link with the castle nut that high up.  Then you can position your p/s box accordingly.   

[4x4yota]

if you compress your bumpstops and hit your pitman yo have that much room left and still have steering

[bluetoy84]

Looks to me like the leaf spring is gonna hit the sector shaft when stuffed. I'm running stock front springs on my rig and my box is in about the same location with a flat pitman as well. I had to build a drop hanger to keep the springs from hitting the sector. The drop hanger also helped with clearance issues on the passenger side of the frame with the drag link.

Also, be sure to plate the frame around the steering box or it will eventually crack.

[studentwheeler]

Looks to me like the leaf spring is gonna hit the sector shaft when stuffed. I'm running stock front springs on my rig and my box is in about the same location with a flat pitman as well. I had to build a drop hanger to keep the springs from hitting the sector. The drop hanger also helped with clearance issues on the passenger side of the frame with the drag link.

Also, be sure to plate the frame around the steering box or it will eventually crack.

That is also another worry. That is why I am thinking to go ahead and move the box further forward and up in order to get the shaft further away from the springs. I will plate the frame as well, I just have it mocked up here for now.

[studentwheeler]

if you compress your bumpstops and hit your pitman yo have that much room left and still have steering

Have any problems with the sector shaft interfering with the springs? I am running the same spring set up you are and have my box mocked up through the same factory hole you did as well.

[4x4yota]

then  its perfect if yo did exactly what I did lol... I couldnt ask anymore out of how mine is

[jrock]

What about doing the #2 picture but raise the box another 3/4"?

[studentwheeler]

Well since i was worried about the sector shaft hitting the springs I went ahead and played with tthe location of the box and think I've settled on this one. Let me know what ya think. Going to drill and install tomorrow...

[jrock]

That's exactly what I was going to do. How is the steering shaft angle?

[studentwheeler]

That's exactly what I was going to do. How is the steering shaft angle?

Have not hooked it up yet but I was obviously mindful of it when setting the box up and it looks like it will be fine.

I'll get some pics tomorrow of the final set up.