DIY 3/8" Plate Crossmember

[_HOIST_]

I decided that I would try to tackle building my own dual case crossmember this weekend since I had some 3/8" x 5" plate sitting around. Also the factory one mounted to the second case and temp mounted to the frame is unsightly and uncool. If it doesn't work out then I'll be upset I missed the $150 ones that LowRange had on sale. 

Here's the plate, I'm starting in the center and moving out since I will use both leftover end pieces later.



2" ought to do for the mount center section cutout.



Pause for cutting oil!





Being lazy...

[slimlaudin]

Sweet thanks for posting this..its gonna help me in a couple weeks

[_HOIST_]

Fits well...



And now to deal with this.



I used PLUS-Bend for this because it was free, but will be looking for an alternative with more features. Since this is the first time I've used this software I'm hoping everything turns out alright. In reality I'm anxious to see how the actual bend dimensions turn out. Not to mention my calculations for using 2x 45 degree angles on each side. I figure that 9" out on each side before the first bend would be ideal to clear the exhaust on the L/S and the T-case on the R/S.

[emsvitil]

Add some gussets at the bends and it will even be stronger.......

[Rocksurfer]

Being lazy

That's not being lazy, it's a template. Now keep that and use it when your friends want you to build them one too.

[_HOIST_]

That's not being lazy, it's a template. Now keep that and use it when your friends want you to build them one too.

Right... Oh wait I dont have friends. 

[_HOIST_]

Here's some shots of how it looked after the first and second bends. I made the jig for my shop press, but I want to re-design it so it has uprights/guides like I have seen on some other ones. I'm happy with how it performs so far though.







And after the second set of bends. Bolted up on the mount and held by two bottle jacks. That's all for today, I cleaned up and headed inside shortly after this, got some chow, and wanted to post this up. I'll fully examine where the drivetrain sits height-wise to see if I need to or can make any adjustments when I get back in the shop (maybe tomorrow).

Until then, 

[Rocksurfer]

Looks like a perfect fit.

[Nimyad]

Looks good man, I suggest you extend it so it protects the transfer case more. You'd hate to come down on a rock and break a case.

[_HOIST_]

Looks good man, I suggest you extend it so it protects the transfer case more. You'd hate to come down on a rock and break a case.

Oh yeah, definitely. I'll be adding a skid coming off the back, as well as the front to hold a mount for the crawl box after I get the frame mounting all done up.

[Nimyad]

Oh yeah, definitely. I'll be adding a skid coming off the back, as well as the front to hold a mount for the crawl box after I get the frame mounting all done up.

Good to hear. Glad you decided to be unique and make your own mount. I did it once, never liked it though.

[bleakhorizon]

if i may, i suggest adding another level under your mounts.. so its a flush bottom. just drill the hole bigger so you can set you bolts in them. or use allen heads...

[junya92toy]

Those are some huge welds!

[_HOIST_]

if i may, i suggest adding another level under your mounts.. so its a flush bottom. just drill the hole bigger so you can set you bolts in them. or use allen heads...

Excellent Idea. I think I will need to raise the drivetrain a slight amount anyway, so that should make flush-mounting a little easier. I will be getting out in the shop after I run a few errands today and will post up some updates.

[_HOIST_]

Ok, so I made a miscalculation on dimensions and the damn thing sits an inch or so too low. I'm not happy about it but I will tell you one thing, I've learned from this and the next one I make will be damn perfect! It was not the PLUS-Bend software's fault, but my own. So if anyone intends to try this themselves just be triple sure your cases are at the height you want before you determine the length in between bends, unlike I did. If you need assistance with this part just ask me. 

I decided that I would try to work off of driveshaft flange mount angles to determine the ideal drivetrain height.

Rear differential (~ 96 Deg.)



Rear Tcase Flange ( ~ 84 Deg: ) YIKES!



From what I understand, with a non-CV shaft the preferred way to setup drvieshaft angle is to have both mating surfaces parallel with each other even if one is higher than the other. Mine have over 10 degrees of difference right now. I raised the rear of the last case as much as I could, which was about an inch. This got me around 86 degrees on the T-case side. This is with the factory spring perches on my rear axle and Marlin 5" rear springs (from when they still sold them). Looks like I'll be ordering me some shims for the rear leafs to get it a little closer, until I get an IFS rear and will weld on new perches.  I kind of lost a little motivation after this.  At any rate, I'm not proud of the spacers I had to make (might redesign them later but to hell with it for now). They also negate my 5 straight minutes worth of drilling for the damn center hole on the mount. As you can see I also did some trimming of the excess plate material from the sides.





I am still trying to decide which way to mount it to the frame. a piece of angle like this on each side will probably win out. I would like to find a way to blind mount some threads in the bottom of the frame rail like the factory mount in addition to running 2 big arse bolts through the angle. Initially I was going to extend the plate forward and actually use the factory mounts, but that's unnecessary material and another point of leverage. With the angle iron method I will have to work around the fact that the crossmember lands somewhat where the bend in the frame starts, but I'll get over it.



I got the rear skid cut out and stuck it up there to see how it will work out. Seems like it will be excellent. This part at the end of the day was a motivation booster, at least.

[junya92toy]

If its too low, can you open up the bends to make it sit higher and redo the mounting tothe truck

[_HOIST_]

Opening up the bends would actually make it lower. I considered bending them a little more, but to get an inch out of it would throw the ends severely off when mounting to the frame. I'll deal with it and just learn from my mistake .

[junya92toy]

No it wont, opening up, or unbending.

[_HOIST_]

Ah. I was thinking about the second set of bends, opening up those would make it lower, but the first set off the mount is what would make it higher. Hmm...

[junya92toy]

If you flatter back out either one, it will make the plate flatter and raise it

[junya92toy]

As you un bend one set, you have to un bend the other, to keep the bottom and top on plane

[bleakhorizon]

Those are some huge welds!

sig worthy lol..  (good ole arc welder)

if you decide to open up the bends a bit, watch that centerline.  going to be hard to keep it now as unbending is much harder to get exact

[socal 88]

Dont un-bend anything,just move the cross member mounts higher up on the inside of the frame rails.And make the mounts longer were they go inwards toward the trans for more support.Dont forget to gusset the crossmember at the bends for added strength.

[_HOIST_]

just move the cross member mounts higher up on the inside of the frame rails.

Genius. I'll check into this later.   

[_HOIST_]

Wow, got busy for a few weeks. Anyway, this is what I've ended up with for now. Got it mounted up today and it feels solid.  I'll add the skids and front case mount section and post them up when I get a chance.

[OTO Phil]

Did anyone happen to get copies of the pictures or dimensions for this?

Thanks.

[_HOIST_]

Did anyone happen to get copies of the pictures or dimensions for this?

Thanks.

My appologies, seems I fell into that category of OP's whos pictures dissappear. I can take more and/or get dimensions ASAP.

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[OTO Phil]

Hey no worries, it's been 3 years in just happy you're still around haha

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