Re: Rotten Lime, The verdict is failure.

[zippo]

I think they changed the image syntax i am fixing it now.

[zippo]

So I got out and got some stuff done! Drove out and spent 45 min chatting with Bobby Long. He has his own personal rock garden in his back yard. Pure awesome! Got the rear axle almost done all it needs are the rear calibers.

ARP hub bolts, and 6, 5/16th pins. 4340 Chromoly drive flange. Full float rear, ready to go.

[awhotrods]

Keep up the good work!  Have you added up all your receipts yet? lol

[twistedtoy92]

damn thats sick!!!!

[zippo]

Keep up the good work!  Have you added up all your receipts yet? lol

I try not to think about it. The total, including the truck is well over 10k. Hell I have 3k or more in each Axle. I know this seems like alot but over 2.5 years it really isn't.

The total is also hard to add because I sometimes changed direction a little during the build, but always sold the old to help pay for the new.

To be honest I just want it done! I'm tired of not having my truck.

[zippo]

So I need some input. With my failure in painting and the availability of cheap complete cabs $700 for a complete cab my plan is to get another cab and save my cab for later working just to get the project done with.

The question is, due to me running 14" shock "Long shock tower" in the front and putting the rock sliders so tight the cab will need a good weekend of metal work before I can bolt it on. OR I could get 1" body blocks this would cheap, easy and give everything just a little more clearance.

The issue with the 1" body, is I already have 6" suspension lift! I could redrill my shackles to lower it.

What is the better way to go? What would be the ideal suspension height to body lift height? Let me know!

[Rocksurfer]

Go with the 1" bodylift, a lot of people will say no but I've run 2" in almost all of my rigs and have never had an issue at all. In fact I have grown fond of the fact that a body lift is a awesome way to clearance large tires and create more up travel which for me is a good thing.

[Rocksurfer]

Or should I say it doesn't create more up travel but you don't have to limit the existing up travel with larger bumpstops when they bottom out on the fenders and firewall.

[sirhc0306]

very nice build. my hats off to you 

[Zs Confederate Toy]

Paint problem: you should super clean that thing with lacquer thinner and use sealer before the primer. Not sealing the bare metal will cause what you have. It might sound weird but there is nothing there for the primer to "bite" into. The sealer has an acid etching additive that sticks it to the bare metal then giving the primer something to hold onto. Great build by the way. I like the attention to detail. Can't wait to see it done

[zippo]

Got a little done today. Scored me a Longfield 4340 Chromoly rear T-case Output Shaft. Also started the final build of my front axle.













The only thing I dislike about this is this little lip as the rear splines. Had a little trouble getting the oil pump on without damaging the inside o-ring. The factory shaft is smooth.

[Dingman.]

Looking good as always!

[Zs Confederate Toy]

Schveet!! Its gettin there

[yotaneck13]

wow i just read the ntire thread cant wait to see it done i too like to build stuff clean so this has given me inspiration thanks keep up the good work

[wakkjobb]

Wow, I just read the entire thread Can't wait to see it done, I to like to build stuff clean so this has given me inspiration. Thanks!!! Keep up the good work!!

Me too, what did you use to move the cab on/off the frame? I saw that slick frame rotisserie dealie and wondered if you made something to move the cab.

>>Dan

[zippo]

I used an 1000lb engine lift with a 3" ratchet strap.

[yotaneck13]

wondered if you made something to move the cab.

3 friends and a case of beer got my t100 cab off and my red cab truck

[4RunnerChevy]

Good stuff !

[zippo]

All I need is a new fuel filter and the fuel system is d-i-z-o-n-e. -6 supply -4 return.

[4LoRunner]

  love the anodized fittings and braided lines, how much did they set you back?

[zippo]

Little over a 100 bucks for everything minus the hard lines.

[tom w.]

sweet build dude. If you still have any interest in forced induction take a look at www.customtacos.com. There's a lot of info over there.

[zippo]

Well I got my LCE Header, its super nice! But doesn't fit on my 88 - 98 3rz swap. Its really tight but it hitting the frame rail. How should I go about fixing this? Should I cut the new header up or should I try and get the TRD micro header?

Super quality LC!!!!!










Here you can really see how its not fitting.... Sadness....

[Peterbuilt84]

Time for a BFH 

Honestly I would say return and get something else, I wouldn't cut up a brand new header. Sucks that it doesn't fit.

Very clean truck btw, can't wait to see what it looks like when you get it finished up 

[Dingman.]

Notch the frame..
jk

I agree with Peterbuilt84

[John Doe]

I'd say TRD mini header.

[4LoRunner]

X2 on the TRD Mini Header

[zippo]

So the LCE weld-up kit is 299.99. Is it worth it or just go with a Toyota Mini Header?

[zippo]

So I made some good progress today. Fuel system is DONE! got a lot done on my harness and got it running.





I wonder where this is going? Muahahaha



http://www.youtube.com/v/7z7xnJOA3Uc

http://www.youtube.com/v/LGkRDdp1v4U

[4CRSHNU]

Nice update, I love this build. 3RZ is an awesome engine.

Matt