Project Snoopy: 85 4Runna - Rebuild 1.0

[Jordan7118]

Dude, thanks, Glen. I've been trying to find it to no avail...

[79coyotefrg]

Dude, thanks, Glen. I've been trying to find it to no avail...

nothing  more important that my buddies 

Here's how it works: TE1 and E1 are two terminals of the diagnostic check connector (next to the under-hood fuse box). When cheking timing, first find the little timing notch on the crankshaft pulley, and dab it with some white paint or something similar so that it will show up under a timing light. Now locate the timing marks on the engine block. You can use a Standard Service Tool (SST) that is made for jumping the terminals, or just get a little piece of copper wire out of any spare wiring you can find around the garage, or possibly even use a paper-clip, although I get a better connection with the wire, it seems like. Now start your truck and make sure that the engine is idling at 850 for 4wd, 750 for 2wd. If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle adjustment screw (big black flathead screw on the throttle body). Counter-clockwise to raise idle, clockwise to lower. Once the idle speed is sitting correctly, stick one end of the wire in the TE1 terminal and the other end in the E1 terminal. This retards the timing, and must be done for good results. With the terminals jumped, attach the timing light however is needed depending on what light you have, and then shine on the timing marks. The white notch should line up with the 5 mark on the engine block (5 degrees before top dead center). If it does not, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and slowly move the distributor until the marks line up correctly. A friend may be helpful for this. Now tighten the distributor, making sure not to mess up your adjustment when doing so. Now pull out the connector from the two terminals, and the timing should advance itself to 10-14 degrees BTDC (the last mark on the engine block is 12). If the timing does not advance when pulling out the connector, you have "inability to set correct base timing", which opens up a whole new problem. Hopefully you will be fine in this regard. Now drive the truck around, listen to see if it is idling/running smoothly, and make sure you don't here any engine pinging. If you hear pinging try again at setting the timing. If not, you're good to go! Here's a link to the popular online Factory Service Manual, it has instructions with pictures. The Haynes manual also has good instructions, you can probably find it in a library or something. Hope this helps, good luck with your truck!

http://myweb.dal.ca/is353832/93fsm/

[Jordan7118]

Here's what I need to know:

I've pulled out the distributor cap, and set the contact point (rotor, maybe?) at 12 o'clock. I put the bottom pulley to 12* BTDC, and then stabbed the dizzy back in. The rotor rotates to about the 10 o'clock position, so it lines up with the #1 cylinder.

What should I be setting the bottom to?

[YotaJosh]

Got a few dshaft questions....

You're using a tractor PTO for the front, correct? If so, where'd you get it, and how much was it?

[Jordan7118]

Got a few dshaft questions....

You're using a tractor PTO for the front, correct? If so, where'd you get it, and how much was it?

I'm using a square shaft with an adapter. It adapts the solid square to round tube. It's made by Weasler Engineeing.

The adapter was about $45, and the square (with a yoke that I don't need already welded to it...) was about $100. Yep, that means I could've just bought a long-travel kit for the front.  I wanted to go this route because it's different, and I'd rather have a "round" d-shaft in the front for rock action.

If you wanna save a buck, you can use 1 1/8" solid square and shave the edges down to work. I wanted to make sure it wasn't my fault if it broke, so I chose the yoke-welded option. I won't be needing all that square, so let me know if you'd like to buy half of it. 

I got both pieces from the Garland County Co-op Association. I'll try to get pics this weekend.


UPDATE ON SNOOP:
Guy came out and set the timing. He also found that the number 2 cylinder wasn't firing. Sweet... Getting spark, so I'm thinking it's not getting fuel.   

[79coyotefrg]

  but i thought the cpu was the problem

[Jordan7118]

  but i thought the cpu was the problem

Yea, me too. I guess Snoops got problems on many levels... But we all knew that 

We can rule out the computer now. I called the guy, and he said to check the wiring harness real close. Like Doable (Albert) said, they have a couple of splices that seem to pull apart on occasion. Yeeks... 

[79coyotefrg]

[YotaJosh]

Get a when you can. I'd like to see what you did. I'm thinking about doing a square one, just got to find a good steel yard here in LR.

[Jordan7118]

Get a when you can. I'd like to see what you did. I'm thinking about doing a square one, just got to find a good steel yard here in LR.

Mine isn't done yet, and it's not exactly a square one. It has a square slip, but then it goes to a bigger round tube. I'll try to draw ya a pic.



Side view


You'll notice I put the square slip to the t-case, as I think it will help save the square part of the shaft. The adapter has a nice grease zerk on it. I thought that was a good idea'r.

[Jordan7118]

Worked on the d-shafts this weekend. Went to National Park Community College where I took a "shop" class in high school to hang out with my instructor. Took apart the CV (what an effin' pain in the butt...) and threw the CV side up in the lathe. turned down the weld on the tube and pulled off the tube and slip part. Didn't realize the yoke is hollowed out, so Mr. Beason (instructor) is gonna make a plug out of the tractor yoke that came with the square shaft and make a plug to fit in the CV yoke to align it in the yoke. Hard to explain so I'll just post pics later.

Josh, I'd recommend going with a square d-shaft in the front or buy a long-travel kit. This is turning out to be more work than is worth it. Unless you have a lathe, this isn't really worth it. 

ENGINE WOES:
So, I think I'm still firing on all cylinders but no. 2 (from radiator side). I pull the spark plug wire off no. 2 and nothing happens. Then I'll pull it off a diff. cylinder and it dies. I took a closer look at the splice for the injector harnesses, and they're still good. I taped them back up with electrical tape and moved on. Then I pulled the intake off to get to the injectors. I noticed the no. 2 injector had more play than the rest. I switched the no. 2 and 3 injectors. I was planning to see what that did, but I lost a crucial bolt in the process. I lost the bolt that attaches the fuel line to the injector fuel rail. Needless to say, engine work stopped there... 

After I lost that crucial bolt, I decided to work on the rear driveline. I had the pipe cut down to size from NPCC earlier, so I just cut up the temp. shaft that was in Snoop. Then I put it in my driveline jig. I got it to about +/- .010 runout, which is decent. Then I welded it up, painted it up, and let it dry over night. I didn't have time to put it in today, but oh well. I also left my camera there, so no pics tonight.   

What's up with my engine? I'm thinking it's not getting fuel because Dad switched the 2 and 3 spark plugs and nothing changed which leads me to believe that the spark plugs are good. Injector bad? I sent them off to be cleaned when the engine was rebuilt. I'm stumped... 

[Jordan7118]

So, what's up with my engine? Any thoughts? Or is the economy so crappy, we're all too broke to contribute to this thread? 

[YotaJosh]

So which 3 of the magic ingredients are missing? Fuel, spark, or compression? Have you done a compression test on it?

Can you get one of those noid thingies that show when the injector fires?

Maybe you guys were seperated at birth: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=49907.0 

[79coyotefrg]

im stumped Jordan   maybe spin it with the plug out

[Jordan7118]

So which 3 of the magic ingredients are missing? Fuel, spark, or compression? Have you done a compression test on it?

Can you get one of those noid thingies that show when the injector fires?

Maybe you guys were seperated at birth: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=49907.0 

Awesome, thanks Josh! I'm getting spark, but not sure about fuel. I read the other thread, and I'm going to check into the noid. That seems like a decent idea. Then check compression. If no compression or low, I'll pull the valve cover and check the valve clearances.

I've stumped master Glen! That makes two of us, Glen! Haha!

[79coyotefrg]

we need pics of them noids when ya get one

but not this guy

[Jordan7118]

Haha!!! 

[Jordan7118]

Apparently I forgot to update... Oops... 

I went home a couple weekends ago to work on the Snoop. I started by finding that darn bolt I lost last time. It is the fuel damper that ties the fuel line into the fuel rail from the fuel filter, so it's kind of important.

Then, I tried starting it up. I couldn't get it to turn over, so I checked under the hood and found that I had a leak at one of the injectors. Sweet... I tore off the intake (again) and found I had messed up an o-ring on an injector. Realizing this could be my Achille's heel, I started wondering if the parts 'runner would have the same o-rings on it's injectors, even if it were a V6. So, I tore into the parts runner and found the o-ring I needed. I switched number 2 and 3 injectors just to see if something would change. Put it all back together.

Then I tried starting it. It ran. However, I found the dead cylinder now to be number 3. This leads me to believe I have a bad injector, or clogged, or something...

Now, how do I fix this? Do I look for a replacement injector, or send this one to be cleaned again? Should I test the resistance in the injector to see if it's good, first? I had all the injectors cleaned a year ago, but maybe it got clogged. I dunno... Post up your thoughts.

I then moved on to the shock hoops. I didn't think these things would be such a pain...    Note to self - paint all but the welding areas BEFORE mounting 

I was able to get one side done. Made a big improvement in handling with one shock  Only problem is that the Marlin kit isn't quite working with my used Bilsteins for some reason. The top bushing has too small of a metal insert to work with the supplied hardware. Weird...

I also chained down the passenger side motor mount before I put on the shock hoops.


Here's some pics of the driveshaft. I realize the angle is pretty steep, but that's what I'm working with. Can't do much about it. I did get some pinion shims to adjust the pinion angle a little. I plan to make a new shaft because this one is a little long and I'm scared I'll bottom it out, especially when I rotate the pinion up a little.

[Jordan7118]

I also tried putting my front d-shaft together. I went to put the CV back together, and it was nightmare. Spent maybe 4 hours trying to get it back together. Had it all together, but then realized it wasn't seating all the way due to a washer being in one of the caps. Geesh... I think I have to buy new u-joints and start over. What a bummer...

Here's how the ag-spline works. My brother and my former vo-tech teacher turned down the yoke to use it as an adapter to center the square shaft in the CV yoke.

Here is the adapter



Here they are mated together


Now the shaft comes into play


All together (not welded, of course)


I crawler under the truck and did some measurements, flexed and drooped, and it looks like I only need maybe 4" of travel. I'm definitely doing this the hard way...  First time you learn a lot, right?!

You will notice that I'm running the square slip to the CV. I'm doing this to keep it from getting rounded off in the rocks (if I ever get to wheel).

My two cents - just buy a long travel kit from Dave'z Offroad. $199 for 10" or slip in regular 31 spline. It's pretty legit. If I were to do it that way, I'd make an adapter slug so I could run it in a CV yoke like I'm doing with this.

Post up your hate 

[YotaJosh]

I was wondering how this thing was going. Yeah, those shock hoops are fun to install.

Looking good!

[79coyotefrg]

  so um does it run yet

[Jordan7118]

  so um does it run yet

My mommma sez eye reid guud... 

Nope. Located some injectors, but they were accidentally left behind and didn't make a trip to Fayetteville. Cory will have to ship 'em. Oh well. I appreciate his effort, though. Can't fault him as I'd forget my butt if it weren't attached... 

[79coyotefrg]

My mommma sez eye reid guud... 

Nope. Located some injectors, but they were accidentally left behind and didn't make a trip to Fayetteville. Cory will have to ship 'em. Oh well. I appreciate his effort, though. Can't fault him as I'd forget my butt if it weren't attached... 

i can relate to that

[Jordan7118]

i can relate to that

Man, I've still got that locking hub that I was supposed to get to Darren. Just thought I'd let ya know in case you want me to get it somewhere. 

[79coyotefrg]

Man, I've still got that locking hub that I was supposed to get to Darren. Just thought I'd let ya know in case you want me to get it somewhere. 

  you mean Daryl?? i forgot all about it

see if you can sell it  and put it towards what i owe you , just let me know what ya get and what i still owe ya

[Jordan7118]

  you mean Daryl?? i forgot all about it

see if you can sell it  and put it towards what i owe you , just let me know what ya get and what i still owe ya

Ummm... not much demand for what ya gave me. I'll just give it back sometime

[Jordan7118]

Fell in love with another 'Runner 

Gonna go pick this up this weekend http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-Toytoa-4-Runner-Monster-Rock-Crawler-Lifted_W0QQitemZ230305259863QQihZ013QQcategoryZ6442QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


               


JK....

I am going home this weekend, so I hope to get some stuff accomplished. Hopefully the new injectors will be there and I can finish up the engine problems...     

[Jordan7118]

Start the prayers. I'm leaving in a little while to go tend to Snoop.

Injectors should be here in time to put one in to make Snoop run like a champ. Cross your fingers, kids 

[GJToyotabug]

looks really good

[YotaJosh]

Good luck. 

It's been long enough.