IFS is gone!! 3.0 Killer on 1 tons

[BLACKDOG]

It is all in in one piece.  Now I just need to get that mount, and my driveshaft lengthened, and we'll be good to go!!   (oh yeah, all the small stuff too)

After installing the shifters, I discovered that the marlin shifter would not allow my tranny shifter to engage in 4th, or reverse.  A simple fix, I swapped my t-case shifter for the crawlbox shifter, as my t-case shifter has been extended and bent to accommodate the BL.

[BLACKDOG]

 

[unclejpl4x4]

nice so can i drive ?

[BLACKDOG]

nice so can i drive ?

   







sorry, what was the question again?

[johnnygalt]

Good progress!

I'll probably start mine in a few weeks.  Got my SAS to wrap up and I'll like the front springs to settle before I start measuring for driveshafts.  Also, since mine is a '91 runner with rear heat, I'm going to need to hack the Tcase shifters to get the rear box to fit in the change holder.

[BLACKDOG]

Good progress!

I'll probably start mine in a few weeks.  Got my SAS to wrap up and I'll like the front springs to settle before I start measuring for driveshafts.  Also, since mine is a '91 runner with rear heat, I'm going to need to hack the Tcase shifters to get the rear box to fit in the change holder.

Thanks I'm hoping to finish up the mounting and the cab today, then all I'll have to do is get the driveshafts.  

If you need a hand with anything, let me know. 

[coconut]

Thanks I'm hoping to finish up the mounting and the cab today, then all I'll have to do is get the driveshafts.  

If you need a hand with anything, let me know. 

[coconut]

Thanks I'm hoping to finish up the mounting and the cab today, then all I'll have to do is get the driveshafts.  

If you need a hand with anything, let me know. 

bd, talked to yotte a week ago and he's gonna keep the front d line but he and i would be happy to help you build one for some beer

[johnnygalt]

Thanks I'm hoping to finish up the mounting and the cab today, then all I'll have to do is get the driveshafts.  

If you need a hand with anything, let me know. 

Thanks for the offer!  Hopefully I've learned enough off your writeup.

[BLACKDOG]

Thanks for the offer!  Hopefully I've learned enough off your writeup.

I'll be adding some more as I finish up, so keep checkin back

bd, talked to yotte a week ago and he's gonna keep the front d line but he and i would be happy to help you build one for some beer

I may take you guys up on that.  Once I get my rear set up, I'll be back in wheels!!

[BLACKDOG]

Truck is finally back on 4 wheels!! (after having the t-case(s) and transmission supported by an old wheel, a block of wood, and a jackstand for 2 weeks)

I "fixed" my crossmember issue today, and all I have to say is I have no idea who welded it up! I swear, I closed my eyes, and when I opened them the weld was there!!   I usually don't weld that bad!
Ok, its been a while since I welded, and I've never used this machine before.  Thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it.  The welds will hold though, not too worried about that.

All I have left is
(1) fill t-case and crawlbox
(2) cover hole in floor
(3) reinstall carpet and seats
(4) have rear driveshaft made
(5) make front driveshaft

[BLACKDOG]

 

[BLACKDOG]

Now that I've almost finished with the install, there are a couple of things I'd like to address for future installers.  just some small issues.

(1) You have to use studs, probably a m10x1.25x47mm in the bottom 3 holes of the rear t-case.  The bolts provided were too long to fit in the gap on the adapter, so I couldn't even thread them in.  Easy fix, I bought some exhaust studs at NAPA

(2) the t-case crossmember mount for a chain driven t-case is different then the gear driven one. You either have to modify the existing one, or get a one from a 4cyl toy.  I temporarily modified mine, until I can get ahold of a 4cyl mount. 

(3) I don't know if it was just my shifters, but I had to swap out the new shifter with my old t-case shifter in order to be able to get my truck into 4th.  the new shifter didn't have the bend needed.



4) you cannot use a stock fill plug for the crawl box/adapter.  There is a stud nut in the way when everything is bolted up.  I had to pull the drainplug off my SA (which I am not using right now) to put in the drainplug hole on the crawlbox/adapter, and use the low profile plug for the fill plug. 

So far, those are the only issues!!   I can't wait to get this thing on the road!!  Like I said, small issues to deal with, but what project doesn't have those?

[synwars]

Like I said, small issues to deal with, but what project doesn't have those?

True. Good work! Keep it up!

[BLACKDOG]

Alright, I am at a decision making point, but I can't decide what to do.  I need to modify a driveshaft, but I'm not sure which way to go.  I'm thinking one of two ways:

1) I used to have a 2 piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing in my truck.  This driveshaft never failed me, but I do know some people don't like them and I'm not sure why.  My first option is to shorten the top section of the two piece, and continue using that.  Why do people not like these driveshafts?  I'm guessing driveshaft angle at complete droop?    having the carrier bearing go bad?   I would have to essentially cut the section in half, losing roughly 8" if IIRC.

2) my other option is to use a rear d-shaft from an '85, which is 55" long.  I need 59" and I want add a CV, so basically all they need to do is weld the CV on and I'm good.  Unfortunately, the 2nd gen driveshaft has the smaller ends to bolt to the flanges, so I need/want to swap those out as well.

Any thoughts?

[79coyotefrg]

you have a longbed extended cab,  i would just shorten the 2 piece shaft and run a regular u joint

[BLACKDOG]

you have a longbed extended cab,  i would just shorten the 2 piece shaft and run a regular u joint

I have to keep the carrier bearing in the middle, its made so that it bolts to a bracket on the truck, holding up the d-shaft.

[79coyotefrg]

right,  just shorten the end that attaches to the tcase  i wouldnt waste my time with a cv,  you dont have that much lift

[BLACKDOG]

I figured doing this would be cheaper anyway   and actually, the "lower" section has a CV at the top.

Do you know why people don't like running the two peice?  I've never had an issue with thm

[79coyotefrg]

on a shorter truck  it hurts the driveline angle,  but as long as your truck is its fine,  can you post a pic of your d-shaft??  so i can see what you mean , cv in the middle

[BLACKDOG]

on a shorter truck  it hurts the driveline angle,  but as long as your truck is its fine,  can you post a pic of your d-shaft??  so i can see what you mean , cv in the middle

yeah, give me a sec

[Ramrod]

just remove that stupid carrier bearing and then take both ends to a driveline shop with your messurements and have them make you a new 1 piecer with thick wall.  It should only be $100.  Thats what RHG did and is the way to go.  If not your angle will probably be all out of wack and more stuff to break/go bad

[BLACKDOG]

options

[BLACKDOG]

just remove that stupid carrier bearing and then take both ends to a driveline shop with your messurements and have them make you a new 1 piecer with thick wall.  It should only be $100.  Thats what RHG did and is the way to go.  If not your angle will probably be all out of wack and more stuff to break/go bad

Yeah, that is a third option.  I'm just trying to use what I have, and sell/give away the other one.  I hate to unecessarily waste something  which is why I have so much junk laying around.  I hate to just throw stuff away

I don't think it'll mess up any angles, because from the carrier back, the driveshaft stays the same, it doesn't change.

[Duffil]

wow...I went out and checked mine.  I ain't gotta CV on mine...musta just been on the later ones.  I dunno, I'm with Pat, take the 2pc to a shop and have it retubed.  That's what I would do; I don't trust the carrier bearing.  The rubber part will disintegrate and they're expensive to buy.

[Ramrod]

just take the two outside ends of the black one up to a shop.  trust me thats the only way to go.  have them put the slip towards the tcase so its out of the mud and rocks and you will be golden.  also spend the extra couple bucks on the thick wall tubing so you dont end up blocking the trail like nub at mcr4.

[BLACKDOG]

just take the two outside ends of the black one up to a shop.  trust me thats the only way to go.  have them put the slip towards the tcase so its out of the mud and rocks and you will be golden.  also spend the extra couple bucks on the thick wall tubing so you dont end up blocking the trail like nub at mcr4.

I'm definitely going thickwalled if that is the way that I go

[Uncle Jesse]

The problem with two piece shafts on a 4x4 is that no one ever readjusts the height of the carrier bearing when they lift their truck.  Ideally, a two piece shaft should run in a straight line.  When you lift the truck, the rear portion of the shaft increases in angle, but the front portion doesn't.  This puts major stress on the carrier bearing rubber, and makes it wear out quickly.  Then you get some vibrations.  If you want to run the two piece, you will still need to adjust the height of the carrier bearing to return the shaft angles back to stock.  Otherwise, I would say just make your two piece into a one piece like the others have said.

[BLACKDOG]

  BLACKDOG IS CRAWLIN'!!!!!  

Finally got off my and finished up the install!!  Got my driveshaft done, went with a 1 piece with a CV, covered the hjole in the floor, and reinstalled my interior.  Next is the front d-shaft (going square) and my half doors!!


To cover the big hole I cut in my floorboard, I just used an old sign I got from my old job, and some sheetmetal screws.  figured I'd be down there again, so I didn't feel like welding it

[BLACKDOG]