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Since when... Painless wouldn't even consider a 5vz harness when I emailed them about that.
meaning make your own have BigMike make you one
I cant believe people spend $700 on a harness from ors...... it is unbelievably easy to wire these motors up.....you can have it running with like 4 wires
im working on the swap, and am wondering how much the oil pan/pickup tube and all the parts to go with it costed.
So I am re-building a 3RZ bottom end for the swap in my '94 and I'm trying LCEs balance shaft delete. Supposed to free up like 15 horse power. I need somebody to race with afterwords to find out if it's true...Has anybody else tried it?
And I still can't figure out how to get the tach to work in my '82 3rz('99 Tacoma) swap. How did you end up getting it to work?
The clutch start cancel switch, are the automatic equipped trucks already prewired for that or is that something I will have to wire up myself?
Is the button pedal bracket for the clutch pedal, is that the button for the clutch call cancel wiring or is that something totally different and it needs to be wired up in order to start?
I'm using an ORS swap harness and I'm not getting ANY power to the EFI pump unless I run a wire straight from the battery to the hot wire. I know on my 22RE, I had to run the jumper wire mod in order for my 22RE to run.
I can't get the engine to turn over AT ALL.
I am not sure about this. I know that Toyota likes to use 1 harness for many different configurations and then leave plugs dangling in the air when not used. For instance, if you have a non Delux or non SR5 2nd gen pickup then it won't have a clock. However, I have never seen a 2nd gen truck without the plug for the clock. So, if you go to the junk yard and find a clock, all you have to do is plug it in and you are done. No wiring required.This might be the case with your 4Runner, however, I am leaning to the fact that Autos have a different chassis harness and have additional features (such as overdrive lockout) that a 5spd would never have, regardless of options. So I think if it was not an option on your truck, which is the case for you as you can never purchase an Auto truck with a clutch start cancel switch, I believe you will have to wire it in.Of course this switch is entirely optional. If you don't want to use it then just bypass the switch.
That switch is only used for the clutch start cancel feature. The 22R-E ECU has no idea when the clutch is engaged or disengaged, ie. there are no other circuits that use that pedal switch besides the clutch start cancel.What is this jumper wire you speak of? Did you buy the truck dead on arrival? Remember that the Opening Circuit Rely is what powers the fuel pump. Make sure the OCR relay is present and also that it is grounded. You could always tap into the ignition ON circuit and have the pump powered whenever the key is in the ON position, but this is unnecessary. What if you only turned the key to the ON position to roll up your windows. Now your poor battery would have to power the windows AND the fuel pump, and the fuel pump would be building unncessary fuel pressure for no reason, wearing itself out.On the bright side, at least in your case, it is rather easy to R&R a fuel pump in a 1st gen 4Runner.
This sounds more like an electrical power supply issue. Have you grounded out your original park safety switch? Remember your Auto would NOT start unless it was in Park (or maybe Neutral). Since you no longer have the Auto shift mechanism, you can no longer shift into Park, so you must bypass that safety feature before ANY voltage can be sent to your starter.I highly recommend using a test light and a volt meter and start checking all of the knowns. We know that any black wire with a red stripe and any black wire with an orange stripe will ONLY have +12 volts when the key is in the ON position. We also know that any white wire will have +12 volts all the time regardless of key position. As for the white wire with a red stripe, be careful as some ignition ON circuits use white-red wires as well as "always-on" circuits that have +12v (regardless of key position) use white-red wires.So simply assuming that any white-red wire will always have +12v regardless of key position will cause your battery to go dead after 2 or 3 days of vehicle storage since it will be powering certain relays and solenoids that should only be powered when the key is in the ON position.Also we know that any brown wire and any white wire with a black stripe will ALWAYS no matter what be grounds or -12 volts.So start hunting around the wires and use your test light and volt meter. For instance, when ever you see a white wire with a black stripe, double check that it is grounded. If it is not grounded, trace the problem back and see what is wrong, etc.Mike
Has anyone had any trouble getting this swap through the smog ref? I failed the inspection due to my evap hooked up wrong, and that I didn't have the exhaust routed exaclty like the '97 donor vehicle. My exhaust is routed so that the stock down pipe and 1st o2 sensor is used and then it crosses under the trans to the driver side. After that it runs into the cat then the 2nd o2 behind the cat. Similar to all the swaps i have seen. The ref says that I can't make any modifications to the exhaust until after the 2nd o2 sensor. Anyone have any info that can help me out?
This is the bar station I always go to they are better than the one on Northgate. The Main BAR number is 1-800-622-7733. There is a North Natomas test site and a Florin Road site. I passed at the Florin Road Site. The Address is 2401 Florin Road. Take 99 to Florin Road WEST ( Exit 293B) go West about 2miles.The test center is in the same building as some Adult Technical School. Park outside the gate and go in the side door and you will enter a class room set up, to the right is a counter that BAR uses. They will take your keys and info and bring the vehicle into the test area. Public is not allowed to watch unless they invite you in to show you something. So you hang out in this class room area until they are finished.If you have problems. The Head Referee is John Baltazar. His phone is 491-4461, or email firstname.lastname@example.org. I spoke to John a few times and he is the one that can over rule the test center guys. I found him to be fair and knowlegable. When you call the 800 number they will have the times open for appointment.
Where are you located? and which Ref location did you go to?
BUDDERS, I talked to the head Ref at the Miramar Station and he seems like a pretty friendly reasonable guy. I actually asked him about the crossover pipe set-up. I explained to him that there was no other way to effectively route the exhaust being that we have a fuel tank on the passenger side, and that the first O2 sensor is right before the CAT and the 2nd is Directly behind. He said he understood and that it sounded passing. He added, "make sure it looks as professional as possible." I forget this dude's name......but he is the Ref at the Miramar College station. I'm gonna go see him when I get off travel. I'll let ya know how dis goes.
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