Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 896751 times)

toy84 · « **Reply #60 on:** Sep 13, 2006, 04:44:58 PM »

Any word if there is gonna be any motor mounts or plug in wiring kits available. Wiring intimidates me.

TOYJOETA · « **Reply #61 on:** Sep 18, 2006, 03:51:57 PM »

Has anyone heard any more on the R155F bellhousing to be used as an adapter bellhousing for the R151? or any other place that might carry something that will work I called advanced adapters and they said they don't carry the adapter by Marks. so this is my last hope, or make custom one.

Thanks
Late
Joe

BigMike · « **Reply #62 on:** Sep 18, 2006, 10:17:28 PM »

From what 4WD Truck is the the R155F to be found?

TOYJOETA · « **Reply #63 on:** Sep 22, 2006, 04:15:03 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on Sep 18, 2006, 10:17:28 PM

From what 4WD Truck is the the R155F to be found?

06-07 Tacomas behind the 2.7lt. the R155 is in the 2wd and R155F in the 4wd. I talked to one of my buddies at a toyota dealership and we couldn't find any info on the input shaft.

BigMike · « **Reply #64 on:** Sep 22, 2006, 04:52:04 PM »

Well, remember that the 2006+ 2.7l is NOT a 3RZ, but rather a 2TR-FE.

The 3RZ lasted the standard 10-year Toyota Engine Life span, from 1995-2005.

The new 2.7 has VVT-i, which is an entirely different cylinder head, computer, etc.

Even if that is an R-series bellhousing, I doubt the new 2.7 would have the same bolt pattern as the old 2.7.

Marlin found out about that being a R-series back around April of this year.
See this post, reply #19: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=20739.msg244471#msg244471

BigMike

TOYJOETA · « **Reply #65 on:** Sep 23, 2006, 09:33:06 AM »

Ya I had known about it being an R-series but hoped the it would bolt up to the 3rz. I guess I could put in a 2TR-FE but still don't know if the bellhousing will work with the R151 shorter input shaft length, or what the oil pan is like.

Thanks for the help BIGMIKE!!
Late
Joe.

BigMike · « **Reply #66 on:** Sep 23, 2006, 11:02:49 AM »

I am ALL FOR the new 2.7l because it has VVT-i !!!!!!!!! It will have a much wider power band than the 3RZ. I would love to see two dyno sheets for them.

The 2TR is rated at just +10 hp and like +5 tq, or something like that, but I guarantee it will feel like +20 hp and +20 tq because of the continuously varying valve over/under lapping that the ecu controls.

I wish I had that engine, but when I did my swap that engine was not publically available. And I am sure that even today it would be a good $3k just to come up with one including all needed sensors and ecu.

Maybe waiting out another 3-4 yrs would do you better in the long run.
Hell, maybe in 5 yrs from now I will retire the 3RZ and put in a used 2TR.

They will be much cheaper then, but so will used 3RZs too

TOYJOETA · « **Reply #67 on:** Sep 24, 2006, 03:27:08 PM »

I remember about a year ago I found one on ebay with the trans for about $2500 it was out of a 2WD but who cares. have't looked for a while, if I do it you can bet I'll start a thread. One thing I like about the 3rz is the fact that i can add a SuperCharger, and that it's a proven engine, my buddy's got almost 200,000 miles on his and still runs like a bat outa hell.

Late
Joe

TOYJOETA · « **Reply #68 on:** Sep 25, 2006, 03:45:33 PM »

Been doin a little bit of research. Looked on car-part.com and found some 2TR's for about $1000 to $1500, don't know what that consits of but the 3Rz's on there weren't much if any cheaper. Also stopped by the Toyota Stealership and checked out the engine. Looked about the same as the 3RZ in terms of size and location, couple things thow- it has a plastic $That\'s Gay$ intake manifoild, and throttle by wire, so I would have to source a throttle peddle also when I buy the engine. Plus I still don't know if the bellhousing will work. Crawled underneath a showroom modle(Got some strange looks) and took a gander, "Looked" about the same didn't have a tape measure to tell for sure, that'll be next time I stop by.

I also drove a base 2WD model had plenty of go but not the throw you in the seat feeling like my friends older 3RZ, but I checked the final drive ratio and it a wopping 3.31:1 with 215/70R15 tires, witch has an effective ratio of 2.65:1 were as my current set up with 5.29's and 37's is 3.28:1. thats a big difference. So I guess before I move any further I really need to find out if the 2TR bell housing will work with mr R151.

Late
Joe

ProTorque · « **Reply #69 on:** Sep 27, 2006, 12:43:14 AM »

Hi there,

I'm from a tuning workshop in Brisbane, Australia and we have a 3RZ-FE conversion in a 98 Hilux and we have run into a problem.

Does anybody have a diagram or picture of the wheel at the bottom of the crankshaft or possibly know how many teeth are on it?

Any help would be great!

Thanks

Katey

cheap sunglasses · « **Reply #70 on:** Oct 30, 2006, 03:40:38 PM »

Hey Mike or anyone else, a few questions regarding transmissions.

I see you used the W56, which is most likely the route I would take if I ever did this swap. I also see your truck is a first gen as is mine. What is involved in putting a W series tranny into the older trucks? If I remember right they are 4-5 inches longer right?
If I were to get a Budbuilt crossmember for a truck with the w56 would that bolt onto my 82 frame with the W tranny? Also, will the tranny be in the same place as it would with my 22R, as in will driveshafts or anything like that need to be fiddled with?

BigMike · « **Reply #71 on:** Oct 31, 2006, 10:44:52 AM »

Quote from: cheap sunglasses on Oct 30, 2006, 03:40:38 PM

Hey Mike or anyone else, a few questions regarding transmissions.

I see you used the W56, which is most likely the route I would take if I ever did this swap. I also see your truck is a first gen as is mine. What is involved in putting a W series tranny into the older trucks? If I remember right they are 4-5 inches longer right?
If I were to get a Budbuilt crossmember for a truck with the w56 would that bolt onto my 82 frame with the W tranny? Also, will the tranny be in the same place as it would with my 22R, as in will driveshafts or anything like that need to be fiddled with?

The W- and G-series transmissions are 4" longer than the L-series transmissions. So you will have to deal with driveline changes and crossmember mount changes. Maybe the easiest route for you would be to use U-Bolts to hold a 1st gen style budbuilt to your frame. This will allow the crossmember to be mounted within a good ±8" or so to the factory location.

As for the shifters, I believe the transmission shifter on a W56 is just a tad rear-ward from that of a L-trany shifter. So your transmission handle will be maybe 1/2" or 1" closer to you. As for the t/case handle, it will be moved 4" rearward from where it is now.

What year is your truck? Was it originally a 4-speed? If so then you will need to do some hammering to the floorboard to get a 5spd transmission to fit in there. It is not difficult and a nice large sledge works nicely.

BigMike

cheap sunglasses · « **Reply #72 on:** Oct 31, 2006, 03:56:35 PM »

My truck is an 82 and it has the L50 (it could be L52 but I dont think so) in it. Some time in its life I had a different 22R swapped in so the tranny could have been changed too. I don't know what it had originally and I have some weird DMV issued VIN so I can't really check that way.
What I meant by driveshaft changes was would the W56 transmission sit in a different place when mated to my 22r as it would with the hypothetical 3rz?
THe u-bolt idea is interesting, what route did you go for crossmember mounting?
Thanks for the info

BigMike · « **Reply #73 on:** Oct 31, 2006, 09:18:07 PM »

Well, you want to mount the 3RZ (or most any other engine conversion for that matter) with the engine-to-bellhousing mounting area right in the same place as stock. So with the back of the 3RZ engine block being at the same place as the back of your 22R, no matter what transmission you use, it will be mounted up to the engine at the same place as stock.

And since the W is 4" longer than a L, your transfercase will sit 4" back from where your t/case sits stock right now, so you will need to lengthen your front driveline by 4" and shorten your rear driveline by 4".

Your truck came with a 5speed which means that it will be even easier to fit a W56 in there.

When I got my truck, it had already been converted to a W56 behind a 22R, and the factory crossmember was using the U-Bolt mounting method I described above. Then when I put in the 3RZ and the Crawlers, I went with a Front Range Off Road crossmember that is welded to the inside frame rails.

BigMike

Destruct O · « **Reply #74 on:** Nov 06, 2006, 12:10:42 PM »

I have a 00 3RZ out of a 4x4 manual Tacoma with California emissions this model has the electronic speedometer. Is there a gear driven T-case that has a electronic speedometer?
I heard 95 4cyl t-cases with EFI has the Electronic connection.

Oddmar · « **Reply #75 on:** Nov 23, 2006, 12:43:12 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on Jan 03, 2006, 09:11:44 AM

But I want to scare you first. It will cost you roughly $1500 to complete the swap, if not more. Figure about $800 - $1200 for an engine complete with all wiring harnesses and ecu, and an extra $300 - $500 or so for the misc things you will need during the conversion.

I'm in central Illinois, and i'm very interested in doing this swap...$1000-$2000 does not sound all THAT scary...

BigMike · « **Reply #76 on:** Nov 23, 2006, 06:04:35 PM »

Quote from: Destruct O on Nov 06, 2006, 12:10:42 PM

I have a 00 3RZ out of a 4x4 manual Tacoma with California emissions this model has the electronic speedometer. Is there a gear driven T-case that has a electronic speedometer?
I heard 95 4cyl t-cases with EFI has the Electronic connection.

Yes, 1992-95 Gear drive t/cases used an electronic speedometer sending unit.

Quote from: Oddmar on Nov 23, 2006, 12:43:12 PM

I'm in central Illinois, and i'm very interested in doing this swap...$1000-$2000 does not sound all THAT scary...

Some people think that they can do this whole conversion for under $600. I doubt they've done an engine conversion before.

87Fontana · « **Reply #77 on:** Nov 26, 2006, 10:00:04 PM »

Does MC plan to come out with a full blown 3RZ conversion kit? (example: motor mounts, wiring harness........)

cheap sunglasses · « **Reply #78 on:** Nov 27, 2006, 12:31:48 AM »

Quote from: 87Fontana on Nov 26, 2006, 10:00:04 PM

Does MC plan to come out with a full blown 3RZ conversion kit? (example: motor mounts, wiring harness........)

My guess is yes, but we will not get to know most likely. Product development has gone behind closed doors as of late. It also depends on what you mean by "full-blown", wiring harnesses could be tricky with the various different 2rz/3rz's available.

TacoRunner · « **Reply #79 on:** Jan 09, 2007, 08:45:44 AM »

Look for this 4Runner in an upcoming issue of 4WD Toyota Owner Mag.

coffee boy · « **Reply #80 on:** Mar 29, 2007, 07:11:28 AM »

Quote from: BigMike on Jan 03, 2006, 09:27:25 AM

Some Engine Comparison Data:

Oil Pan Conversion Information (Big Thanks to toyhatsu for these!!):
If your 3RZ came out of a Tacoma, then you will need the rear-sump oil pan equipment from a 1995-1997 2WD T100 to clear your front Live Axle. Here are the part numbers from the dealers:
T100 2WD Oil Pan - Toy part 12101-65030
T100 2WD Oil Pan pickup tube - Toy part 15104-62060
T100 2WD Pickup Tube Gasket - Toy part 15147-62020
T100 2WD Dipstick - Toy part 15301-62060
T100 2WD Dipstick Guide Tube - Toy part 11452-62060
T100 2WD Union - Toy part 90405-10033

THESE NUMBERS ARE WRONG. These parts are for a v6 and do not fit on a 3RZ. A damn shame too since I bought all this crap to do my swap.

4RnrRick · « **Reply #81 on:** Mar 29, 2007, 07:47:00 AM »

These are the correct parts....

Rear sump oil pan conversion parts for 2.7L 3RZ-FE
**************************************************
12101-75060 Oil Pan, (T100 2wd 2.7L, 6 qts)
15104-75020 Pickup Tube & Strainer, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
11494-75010 Oil Hole Plate, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
15147-75020 Oil Strainer Gasket, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
15301-75020 Oil Gage (Dipstick), (T100 2wd 2.7L)
11409-75020 Oil Gage Guide (Dipstick), (T100 2wd 2.7L)
91651-60614 Bolts (Oil Hole plate), (4) Req'd
00295-00103 FIPG (Form in Place Gasket material)

BigMike · « **Reply #82 on:** Mar 29, 2007, 11:48:02 PM »

Thanks Rick, I have updated the numbers on page 1.

I had heard that Toyhatsu's numbers were wrong, but I was still waiting for a confirmation on it..

Quote from: coffee boy on Mar 29, 2007, 07:11:28 AM

I bought all this crap to do my swap.

I am sorry about that coffee boy, are you able to return them?

coffee boy · « **Reply #83 on:** Mar 30, 2007, 06:29:25 AM »

Thanks Rick. I got all the stuff ordered and it all backordered.

I am sure they will take it back since it still has all the stickers on it.

motorider228 · « **Reply #84 on:** May 27, 2007, 01:09:19 PM »

Got some simple questions about the 3rz. I am getting rid of my 06 ram with a 5.7 liter because of an unfixable warranty issue, I decided to go back to toyota as I want better than 14 mpg, I want 4 wheel drive, and I want to wheel. well I will more than likely be purchasing a late 90's-early 00's tacoma as I want comfort as well and not just a stripped down 80's yota. My questions are,

should the 3rz have problems pushing around an extended cab 4x4 taco?

I remember my old gen 2 runner with a 22re was a slug when it came to ANY hill and I do not want to deal with that again.

I know the 3.4 liter that came in those tacos only had about 30 more hp but would that be a better motor to push the weight of this taco?

Do those motors have any real problems?

I am used to having more power than I know what to do with right now and it is nice on big freeway hills or mountain roads so i do not want ot have this issue with a 3rz. Also, anything I get will be getting an intake, headers, new plugs and wires and full exhaust so that should give me 10-20 ish hp but I just want to know if I will be disappointed with a 3rz in that vehicle as a daily driver. I just wan tto keep going 70 up most hills. lol. The runner never could do that.

bkubisht · « **Reply #85 on:** May 27, 2007, 09:30:09 PM »

motorider228: It won't be a 'more power than you know what to do with' situation. But the 3rz does have almost 50% more power than the 22re, so you won't hate it so bad.

Now some tech: Budders hasn't been updating his thread, but he told me earlier this week that there's a bolt-on way to run the 22re A/C Compressor. Just install the compressor clutch from a 1st gen non-turbo MR2 with a 4AGE motor onto the 22re compressor. 3 of the 4 mounting bolts are in the right spot to attach it to the 3rz compressor mounting bracket.

jr9162 · « **Reply #86 on:** May 27, 2007, 11:30:50 PM »

Quote from: bkubisht on May 27, 2007, 09:30:09 PM

Now some tech: Budders hasn't been updating his thread, but he told me earlier this week that there's a bolt-on way to run the 22re A/C Compressor. Just install the compressor clutch from a 1st gen non-turbo MR2 with a 4AGE motor onto the 22re compressor. 3 of the 4 mounting bolts are in the right spot to attach it to the 3rz compressor mounting bracket.

What year range MR2 would that be from?

motorider228 · « **Reply #87 on:** May 28, 2007, 12:38:17 AM »

Yeah I know pretty much any 4 banger in a truck will leave some to be desired but I didn't know if it could push along a 4x4 extended cab taco very easily.

82 HiLux · « **Reply #88 on:** May 28, 2007, 12:56:15 AM »

get a supercharged 3rz

motorider228 · « **Reply #89 on:** May 28, 2007, 03:57:15 AM »

that is an option. I just need to drive both the 2.7 liter and the 3.4 liter. I just see a 3.4 liter with intake, headers and exhaust being an easier daily driver than a 2.7 liter in a taco. Especially an extended cab taco.

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