Diesel GOAT: The one I wish Toyota would have built

[cavey]

for the crossthreaded hole you could Helicoil it to bring it back to standard  they make them in BSP and NPT threads  i think it is 1/8" BSP   but am guessing ,  I know the L series are 1/8" BSP

[cavey]

 when inserting the helicoil apply some liquid thread sealer   like loctite  so it doesnt leak between the block and the helicoil

[helipilot77]

It is 1/8 BSP. I bought a 1/4 NPT to 1/8 BSP reducer. I'll drill and tap it to 1/4 NPT then it should seal up. Didnt know they make helicoils for pipe thread. Good to know.

[emsvitil]

I wouldn't think a helicoil (unlike a threaded insert) for a pipe thread would seal even with sealant.

[zippo]

I wouldn't think a helicoil (unlike a threaded insert) for a pipe thread would seal even with sealant.

Yeah that would be a leak prone area I would think.

[:)bestgen4runner]

If your going this route use a time-cert not a helicoil
They are a forever fix

[cavey]

Helicoils are a forever fix also  I've used them on hydraulics at 200 bar   but when you go to tap the hole fill the tap flutes with grease to collect the swarf  and then  after the insert is fitted  crank the engine over  without it running to crank up oil pressure to wash out any swarf that the grease didnt collect  , then fit the sender and run the engine

[emsvitil]

A reducer is a threaded insert..................



just saying.

[helipilot77]

The leak has been fixed. it turns out the fitting wasn't cross threaded, but just needed some sealant on it. Everything seems to be leak free for now. Time will tell. Now to cleanup the street.

[helipilot77]

It has been 6 years since I had heat in the 4runner. Today I pulled the whole dash apart and replaced the heater core. I replaced the O-rings on the pipes supplying the heater core and I bought some open cell foam at Home Depot that was a pretty good match to what Toyota originally used to seal around the heater core. I was able to get everything put back together but I still have to hook up the hoses under the hood, add more coolant and purge the system. What a chore but it will be worth it.

[helipilot77]

I hooked up the hoses and purged the coolant lines. It's a whole new level of luxury to have heat. 

[dewiseman]

Hi Nate, did you end up moving your t-stat to the upper hose?

[helipilot77]

Hi Nate, did you end up moving your t-stat to the upper hose?

Never did. I have one more thing to try. This summer I'm going to try the genuine Toyota 76 degree thermostat. If that doesn't work, I'll put it in the upper radiator hose.

[helipilot77]

The window felt on the front two windows had been replaced with some cheap knock off material some years ago. Within a few years it had degraded and the felt was gone. It was time to order some new stuff from Toyota. The window channel had also gone hard and cracked on both sides. so I ordered those too. Part numbers are shown in case anyone else is interested. These are the number for the windows with the vent window.

[zippo]

Those can be hard to find.

[helipilot77]

Those can be hard to find.

I ordered them from toyotaPartsDeal.com they are in California somewhere. They were here in less than a week.

[helipilot77]

The channel fit perfect. I guess you could say the felt fit perfect too, however it has a notch taken out of it that looks like it lines up with the lock/unlock button. So it might have been the felt for the inside of a different trim style. Looks like these are the right ones.

[dewiseman]

Does the GOAT have an intercooler?

[helipilot77]

Does the GOAT have an intercooler?

No intercooler, but I imagine it will eventually.

[dewiseman]

An intercooler will help with those temps thru the passes.  (and you will really like the throttle response)  I can't believe how much you have done on this truck since you brought it down to my house in Oly.  My hat is off to you my friend. This thread is GREAT.

[helipilot77]

The correct window felt finally arrived today, so I ran out and installed it to make sure it fit. It looks just like new! The part number is 68160-89116 in case anyone else is interested. It does come with the 3 clips needed to install it.

[helipilot77]

Back to the hi amperage alternator search. I found that the big stereo guys like to use Denso "hairpin" alternators because they produce big amps at idle speeds. I found a 150 amp hairpin Denso alternator intended for a John Deere tractor that appears to be bolt-on. It even uses the same plug. I would just need to swap my pulley. Hopefully the double V-belt would have enough grip to turn it. $200 at Amazon means it's worth a try and replacements would be simpler than the unavailable setup I've got.

https://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26878565-new-12v-150-amp-alternator-fits-john-deere-tractor-104210-3920-104210-3921-1042103921.html

The new Denso "Hairpin" 150 amp alternator showed up this week. Putting them side by side makes this more and more likely to be a bolt in solution. The first thing I did was measure the body sizes of the original and new. The Hairpin is about 1/4" wider in diameter but that shouldn't be enough to be a problem. Then I measured the bolt hole sizes and distance apart. they are the same size holes/threads but the hairpin bolt pattern is 1/4" wider as well, this also shouldn't be a problem since the bracket has some  swing to it. The electrical plug is confirmed to be the same but in a different orientation and the power lug is also in a different orientation. Next I confirmed that the pulley's were interchangeable. I used the impact to remove the 22mm nuts on both and confirming that the shaft diameters were the same the old pulley fit right on the hairpin alternator with no rubbing. I'm feeling pretty confidant that this will bolt in now. Next I pulled the pulley back off and sandblasted and primer sprayed the old pulley.

[dewiseman]

any updates on the alternator install?

[helipilot77]

Not yet.

[helipilot77]

I build slowly so don't get to upset with me if I take my time.

[helipilot77]

Stuck at home today. So let's put the alternator in.
pulled the old one out noting that there really isn't much clearance between the top of the alternator and the bottom of the A/C pump. I removed the A/C pump just to make access that much easier. since I don't have it charged it's no big deal to remove the pressure line and toss it aside. The alternator came out next and then in went the new "Hairpin" Alternator. That's all! It bolted right in with no drama! I couldn't believe it. the connector clipped right on. The only modification was to the ring terminal. Since this one puts out more than twice the juice it has a larger post, so I used a carbide burr in a cordless drill to open up the ring terminal a little. I buttoned everything back up and when tightening the belts I needed to run it all the way out to the end of its slot but it did tighten up nicely. The A/C pump went back on without any interference. I started it up and checked the voltmeter to make sure the pixies were going in the right direction and it was charging beautifully. The install was about as simple and straightforward as I could have hoped for.   

[LittleSteve]

Is it done yet?

[zippo]

Is it done yet?

Until they are sold, are they ever really done?

[helipilot77]

It will never be done. There always changes that can be made, different turbos, better axles and suspension, fun gadgets to build for the interior.

[bigwill837]

As promised major progress was made yesterday. I cant thank Zippo enough for his help. We  started the day by towing the goat from her parking spot under the fir tree to the concrete pad in front of the garage. RockcrawlinJK showed up about that time. We started by plasma cutting the existing motor mounts off the frame and cleaning the pads up with a grinder.

Just read through the whole thread. Bravo. Great work. So glad you got it back together.


I must have missed it - Did the 1KZ-TE swap into the 1988 4Runner require new engine mounts and custom oil pan? I thought the 3VZ-FE, 5VZ-FE, and 1KZ-TE all shared the same engine mounts and trans (R150/151)?