Topic: Diesel GOAT: The one I wish Toyota would have built

[helipilot77]

I do have a set....

Message me with what you have and what you might want for them.

[LittleSteve]

Message me with what you have and what you might want for them.

the ones i have are like, free.

[blackdiamond]

Really? Cause I could honestly use new shocks in the front too.

He defected to Rancho.

[LittleSteve]

He defected to Rancho.

wait till you see what happens next...

[mudmaster]

Nothing, Bilsteins were too soft

[helipilot77 [OP]]

New baby girl in the house so I haven't been doing much on the runner. I did do a little work toward getting some gauges for the gauge pod on the A pillar. Top gauge is EGT, middle gauge is boost, and bottom gauge is water temp.

[LittleSteve]

Needs either a receiver or a tow bracket of some description........

[Prismo]

Congratulations on your new addition!

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Needs either a receiver or a tow bracket of some description........

??

Been having some issues with the fuel line loosing prime and getting air bubbles in it. I installed a new genuine Toyota fuel filter head. I also have a new injector return pipe to install cause the #1 injector is leaking at the return line. It got twisted when tightening the injector nut. LittleSteve is helping diagnose the fuel system. I need to try to pull vacuum with the Mityvac and see what happens.

[Atlcr]

Great build and excellent write up. Congrats on the new baby girl.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Tonight I put the awning up out in the street so I could get some repairs done in the rain. The fuel injection return pipe was the number one thing that needed to get replaced. The leak was getting to a pretty embarrassing point. I think I got it all fixed. Hopefully it's leak free now and I can clean up the mess in the street where I have been parking. 

[LittleSteve]

fitted them dampers yet?

[helipilot77 [OP]]

fitted them dampers yet?

No but I pulled one out of storage to measure. Gonna have to built new towers.

[LittleSteve]

No but I pulled one out of storage to measure. Gonna have to built new towers.

think of the travel....

[helipilot77 [OP]]

now that the fuel leak is fixed, it made it clear that I also had an oil leak. Fortunately it is an easy fix. when Zippo helped me start it up for the first time the oil pressure gauge wasn't working. We installed a cheap Autozone oil pressure gauge to make sure that we had good oil pressure. The oil pressure port is where the leak is coming from. I have a new sending unit to install in the port to seal up the leak.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

In an attempt to fix the oil leak I made it worse. When installing the new sensor I cross threaded it into the port. Looks like I’ll be pulling it back off, welding up the port re-drilling and tapping the threads then installing everything back on the motor. Meanwhile the whole intake side of the motor is being coated in nasty black oil. 

[LittleSteve]

In an attempt to fix the oil leak I made it worse. When installing the new sensor I cross threaded it into the port. Looks like I’ll be pulling it back off, welding up the port re-drilling and tapping the threads then installing everything back on the motor. Meanwhile the whole intake side of the motor is being coated in nasty black oil. 

being covered in black shitty oil is about standard for a kz...

if you get bored i think i have that part laying around. or did i throw it in the scrap with that block i had

[zippo]

In an attempt to fix the oil leak I made it worse. When installing the new sensor I cross threaded it into the port. Looks like I’ll be pulling it back off, welding up the port re-drilling and tapping the threads then installing everything back on the motor. Meanwhile the whole intake side of the motor is being coated in nasty black oil. 

I wouldn't weld on the cast. Drill it out to the next NTP size and run a reducer. Welding cast sucks, welding it after that much oil saturation would be difficult also.


 

[helipilot77 [OP]]

It’s cast aluminum though.

[LittleSteve]

It’s cast aluminum though.

Thats probably worse but not in the realms of impossible.
If it was cast iron i would braze it not weld it.

Either way it can be done...

[helipilot77 [OP]]

being covered in black shitty oil is about standard for a kz...

if you get bored i think i have that part laying around. or did i throw it in the scrap with that block i had

I would prefer a unrepaired one if you can find it and get it on its way quick.

Thats probably worse but not in the realms of impossible.
If it was cast iron i would braze it not weld it.

Either way it can be done...

 it can’t hurt to try to fix it.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

I wouldn't weld on the cast. Drill it out to the next NTP size and run a reducer. Welding cast sucks, welding it after that much oil saturation would be difficult also.

Agreed you are asking for failure trying to weld it. You are never going to get it clean enough and welding cast aluminum sucks under the best circumstances.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I wouldn't weld on the cast. Drill it out to the next NTP size and run a reducer. Welding cast sucks, welding it after that much oil saturation would be difficult also.

You’re probably right. It does seem like the most straightforward fix. Zippo has never steered me wrong.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

VIAIR 90001 1/8" Female BSP - 1/4" Male NPT Adaptor - 2 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RCOY5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.xeUDbY65EX5Y

This should do the job nicely.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I’ll try to find the alternator rebuild parts sight I found a while back. I was looking at swapping my alternator out for a hiace since the vans came with 110amp units.

Back to the hi amperage alternator search. I found that the big stereo guys like to use Denso “hairpin” alternators because they produce big amps at idle speeds. I found a 150 amp hairpin Denso alternator intended for a John Deere tractor that appears to be bolt-on. It even uses the same plug. I would just need to swap my pulley. Hopefully the double V-belt would have enough grip to turn it. $200 at Amazon means it’s worth a try and replacements would be simpler than the unavailable setup I’ve got.

https://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26878565-new-12v-150-amp-alternator-fits-john-deere-tractor-104210-3920-104210-3921-1042103921.html

[Rockcrawlintoy]

Back to the hi amperage alternator search. I found that the big stereo guys like to use Denso “hairpin” alternators because they produce big amps at idle speeds. I found a 150 amp hairpin Denso alternator intended for a John Deere tractor that appears to be bolt-on. It even uses the same plug. I would just need to swap my pulley. Hopefully the double V-belt would have enough grip to turn it. $200 at Amazon means it’s worth a try and replacements would be simpler than the unavailable setup I’ve got.

https://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26878565-new-12v-150-amp-alternator-fits-john-deere-tractor-104210-3920-104210-3921-1042103921.html

I have a 160 amp denso on the JK the diesel version has a 210 amp and i am sure it makes it at a lower rpm than mine.

[:)bestgen4runner]

JB Weld? You can drill and tap that stuff.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

JB Weld? You can drill and tap that stuff.

I would do that over welding for sure

[mudmaster]

JB Weld? You can drill and tap that stuff.

I've done that and it works great.

[redneckcustoms13]

Devcon is also an option. Basically job weld on steroids. We use it on hardened shafts and turn it down and polish on a lathe for sealing surfaces. The stuff is amazingly durable.