Diesel GOAT: The one I wish Toyota would have built

[helipilot77]

How has the power steering been? I don't seem to have any assistance at all. Running new power steering pump, bled a LOT left to right on Jack stands, along with the yotamasters tapped box for hydro assist.

My power steering has been working faithfully ever since I installed a new pump. It still whines  in the morning when it is cold, but once it warms up it is quiet.

[helipilot77]

I have 500 miles on the new gears and have been very happy with them. I need to change out the gear oil in them now. I had a vibration start to develop that made me very nervous that I had messed something up. After inspecting the driveshaft I think I found the problem. Trail Fail parts out. Trusty Matsuba U-joints back in. Hopefully this was the entirety of the problem. If you dont have a U-joint puller and a c-clamp in your trail tools, I strongly recommend adding them.

[toyodaaddict]

Is th there a u joint puller you would recommend? Sounds like something I might need.

I've always battled them with a hammer/socket. I've got a press now but haven't had a chance to do a u joint with it yet.

[helipilot77]

Is th there a u joint puller you would recommend? Sounds like something I might need.

I've always battled them with a hammer/socket. I've got a press now but haven't had a chance to do a u joint with it yet.

I used the Lisle 42890 puller. $56.81 on amazon. It worked like a charm.

[helipilot77]

So I haven't been honest with you guys and it's time to come clean. This summer I was driving the 4Runner to get groceries with the kids when on our way home blue smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. Fortunately I was less than a mile from home. When I got home I parked and started to try to figure out what it could be. After tearing it apart I found that somehow the pre-combustion chamber in cylinder 3 had come loose and was  just floating in between the head and the top of the cylinder. I also found a crack between the number2 and 3 cylinder sleeves. So I bought a new AMC cylinder head and epoxied the crack. Once the epoxy had cured I surfaced the top of the block using a 24 x 12 granite tile with sandpaper glued to it stepping down in grit until the blue indicator fluid was sanding away uniformly. Once this was all done I put everything back together with a new set of injectors and glow plugs. So at this point the whole top end was new. I re-shimmed the valves and attempted to start it. I was not getting anything to happen though. I tested compression and every cylinder was in excellent condition  with my lowest cylinder being at 420 psi. I could get it to pop and run for a short period with some ether but couldn't get it to sustain. At this point I was calling everyone for ideas and couldn't get anything to work. So I threw in the towel and called a retired diesel mechanic who was willing and excited to take on my project. So I had it towed over to his place. Within a few hours of working on it he had it running. I had made a real bone head mistake and had installed the fuel pump sprocket  180° out of timing which had broken the hub where it interfered with the pin. If I had installed it 90° out it would have bent all the valves and likely damaged the pistons. Later he found that it was leaking coolant from cylinder 4. He has taken it apart and has found another crack between cylinder 3 and 4. He is in the process of getting everything back together and found some grit in some of the head bolt holes that was preventing full torque. Fortunately Toyota still had new fuel pump sprockets available in Japan for only $20. So no real harm was done. I have installed a 165° thermostat which I hope will prevent the problem from happening again. She should hopefully be back on the road again and I can resume my projects on her.

[RB]

Man that is a real kick in the pants. Glad to hear it's getting sorted with minimal damage. Are you going to epoxy the crack at 3-4? Are these cracks from heat, haven't really read much about the blocks cracking usually it's the heads or maybe I can't read haha.

[helipilot77]

Mechanic is going to handle the repair of the crack between 3-4. I haven't heard of blocks cracking at the top either. It really surprised me.

[toyodaaddict]

Sounds like a pretty rough set back, good to hear you're getting it sorted out. 

[helipilot77]

Bad news. The mechanic got everything put back together and everything is running beautiful, but there are still bubbles coming into the radiator. I have ordered a rebuilt shortblock on express delivery. I'm going to be pulling the old motor and will have a new paperweight. At least I will have a new motor in the runner.

[Gnarly4X]

helipilot77, I am very sorry to read about your issues.

It's always painful to read about the unsuccessful struggles to fix a problem.

I've heard and read about what can repair a cracked block, including epoxy.

However, based upon my experiences with welding (mig and stick) and using an epoxy product for something other than an engine block,
unless there were serious issues with getting a replacement block, I'd would opt for a replacement block.

For me (I'm a long way from being an engine builder) rebuilding an engine once is a challenging, expensive, time-consuming,
and usually somewhat frustrating.  BUT having to pull it and rebuild it again sucks like a big giant Hoover!!

Gnarls.

[helipilot77]

UPDATE: I have pulled the old motor and transfered all the ancilary parts onto the new short block. I came down from the garage to post this update before returning to the garage to dunk it into the engine bay. Things are moving along finally.

[RB]

Glorious, hope install is without dramas

[helipilot77]

I went to remove the pilot bearing in order to install it in the new motor and tried using grease and a tight fitting punch. Anyone who says that works is lying to you. I ended up using bread, which does in fact work. It ended up tearing the seal out and stuffing bits of bread in the races though. Fortunately it is the same part as for the 22-R and was in stock at the local NAPA. Probably not worth reusing anyways since it is so easy to replace while the motor is out.

[a1gemmel]

Grease alone does not work, 50/50 grease with torn bits of shop rag is the ticket

[RB]

I've used paper towel and water several times with success. I did try the grease alone also and no dice, never thought of bits of other material.

[Gnarly4X]

Pilot bearing removeal....

Nothing I tried worked for me until I made my own PILOT BEARING REMOVAL TOOL.

It worked perfectly.

HOT TIP:  Be sure to slide the new pilot bearing over the tip of the input shaft BEFORE attempting to install the tranny through the clutch disc to verify it fits.

Gnarls.

[RB]

I like this idea, but I do not understand how the bolt is used to pull the bearing out. To me it looks like a piece is missing on the end of the bolt to capture the bearing. I understand you use the bolt on a slide hammer or perhaps you screw it to force out the bearing. I'm not understanding what keeps the bolt from just sliding out. Please splain.

[Gnarly4X]

I like this idea, but I do not understand how the bolt is used to pull the bearing out. To me it looks like a piece is missing on the end of the bolt to capture the bearing. I understand you use the bolt on a slide hammer or perhaps you screw it to force out the bearing. I'm not understanding what keeps the bolt from just sliding out. Please splain.

Hey RB,

I made that tool by taking a hacksaw to cut 4 slots in the end.

I ground the end of the bolt to make it like redneck tap or thread chaser.

My old man was an old school auto mechanic and I remember him making a tool the same way, but may have been used for another application.

The bolt is a metric 19mm, with .491" at the threads, and .494" at the shank. .The inside diameter of pilot bearing is 12mm or 0.473", so it was a tight fit.

I tapped in the bolt with a hammer until the tip seated against the crankshank.

I began turning the bolt clockwise hoping the threads would force the bearing further onto the bolt and out of the crankshaft.
I tapped and turned until it popped out.  It took less than a minute
to get it to pull out of the end of the crankshaft. I found the tool, but I didn't save the old pilot bearing.

The friction of the bearing as it rode against the threads of the bolt did smash the edges of the threads as it slid further onto the bolt.

I have tried the special tools from AutoZone and they never even came close to working for me.

The post is compressing the photo somehow.  Here's the link to the photo on my imgur site:

https://imgur.com/sMCJ112


Gnarls 

[RB]

Ok I follow. I would assume the inner race would just spin when trying to tighten. Thanks for the explanation.

[Gnarly4X]

Ok I follow. I would assume the inner race would just spin when trying to tighten. Thanks for the explanation.

It's a long time since I pulled that bearing, but I think it did spin and I pulled on the bolt with a pair vice grips as I jiggled it, then tapped the bolt in further.

I remember being surprised that the bearing came out so easily.

Gnarls.

[helipilot77]

Friday night at 1:30am I got the motor in. Satuday night at 11:30pm I got all of the accesories installed. Sunday afternoon I took it for a test drive and while on the drive I was scanning my gauges and noticed that I was out of fuel and needed to make a stop. Five seconds later I ran out of fuel and had to wait for a rescue. 
Not the best test drive. More shake down is needed, but it sounds mean! I have missed driving the beast. 

[Gnarly4X]

I have missed driving the beast. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6Ggp3TJjuE   


Gnarls.

[helipilot77]

Just been daily driving it. It sure gets a lot of attention when people hear the turbo diesel. When I installed the motor I messed up the rear main oil seal. So I will need to pull the trans and fix that...or not. I wouldn't know how to drive something that doesn't leak.

[toyodaaddict]

I used the Lisle 42890 puller. $56.81 on amazon. It worked like a charm.

I used this for the first time the other day. It worked great.

[Wiggy]

I know this is an old thread but how's the KZ been running with the mechanical pump? I've just about talked myself into doing a swap myself lol. The all-mechanical part of it very temping just for the simplicity of it!

[helipilot77]

I would have done the mechanical pump from the beginning had I known about it. The wiring added a lot of time and complexity to the swap that would completely eliminated with the mechanical pump. I have even seen the odd denso mechanical pump available on ebay. They go for $1100 typically but are rebuilt and might get you a but more power. I would like to have my glow plugs on a timer but other than I don't miss the electronics. Plus if we ever are attacked by an EMP I will still be able to drive.

[Wiggy]

Haha thats true! I wish I could find a decent deal on a motor around the Charlotte Area, everything on Ebay are $4000 to $5000 for a manual transmission, seems like a lot. But I'll spend every bit of that on another swap probably.

[helipilot77]

Prices havent changed much since I did my swap. I bought a "half cut" when I did mine so that I would have everything under the hood. Mine was also an automatic transmission so I had to make some modifications to the wiring harness to make it work on my manual transmission but there were no issues making the auto ECU work in a manual transmission.