Topic: Diesel GOAT: The one I wish Toyota would have built

[Gnarly4X]

.... Toyota injection pump timing tool ...

That looks like a very "manual" tool.

So the injection "timing" is adjusted "manually"? 

Just a wild-A$$ guess, is there some kind of cam used in the timing?

Gnarls.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Yes. There is a cam wheel inside the injection pump that moves the plunger. This tool rides on the plunger and is used with a dial indicator to find the high spot on the cam, which you align with TDC.

[Gnarly4X]

Yes. There is a cam wheel inside the injection pump that moves the plunger. This tool rides on the plunger and is used with a dial indicator to find the high spot on the cam, which you align with TDC.

Hey helipilot77....

I am curious to learn if, after you make the adjustment with your new tool, will you be able to tell any difference in engine performance, fuel mileage, or startups??

Gnarls.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Hopefully all of those things. As it is, it’s running okay, but I know there is more potential.

[cavey]

here are copies out of the 1KZ-T engine manual for pump timing. I set mine to the greater amount  which in effect advances the time of injection , but when i had the 3L engine in  the timing was .84mm to .96mm  and I set it to 1mm which made it go heaps better

[Gnarly4X]

I'm curious...

Going back to 1982 I owned and drove a Mercedes diesel sedan for many years.

When I first bought the car I spoke to an old German mechanic at one of the largest Mercedes dealerships on the west coast.

He said that diesel fuel is "dirty" and he recommended I put a quart of ATF in the fuel about ever 3rd of 4th tank.

He said ATF will clean the injectors and absorb moisture in the fuel system.

I could really notice the difference, especially in the knocking sound.

Quite a few years ago at one of our big 4-wheeling events here in AZ (called "The Spook Rally" in October -one THE most fun events ever!) a bunch of us were sitting around the campfire and one of the guys was talking about his diesel powered truck and hauler.  He was talking about engine performance.  I asked him if he was using ATF in the fuel.  He didn't even know about it.  Fast forward 1 year later.  WE are at the same event and meet again.  When we met, the first thing he said was "Gnarls, I owe you a 6-pack!"  I said "And what did I do to earn a 6-pack? He laughed and said "Do you remember last year we were talking about diesel engines?"  "That ATF REALLY works!!"

I'm wondering if you are putting any additives or ATF into the fuel?

Gnarls.

[cavey]

another one is to put mineral two stroke oil in the fuel also not outboard two stroke oil   , at about 200 to 1  ratio  to lubricate the pump internals  as diesel is crap at lubricating  and now even worse since they took the sulphur out of it

[cavey]

tell me if you need more of the manual on how to time the pump

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Thanks Cavey. You posted those a few pages back. I really appreciate it. I don’t think I have access to that manual over here so it is super valuable.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I took these pictures of the front half of the transfer case shifter assembly while it was out and apart, for those of you who have been interested.

[H8PVMNT]

Been a while since I have been on here.  Congratulations on the boy!  I can personally confirm from personal experience that son's are definitely arrows in your quiver.

[LittleSteve]

Is it done yet?

[LittleSteve]

For those interested... Ive recently been balls deep in a later 1KD. Junk. They are like a KZ, almost like the prettier twin sister except when you lift the skirt its actually the brother, maybe you could cope with that but s/he has the clap and thrush.

They suffer from several problems. Oil starvation, Carbon problems linked to oil starvation, injector wear and piston death linked to the injectors.

This one had both main problems. Injectors were shot. No 3 big end bearing was shafted enough to be hitting the oil pan.

So the rebuild began
Between the early KD and the late KD everything is different.
Oil cooler, injectors, fuel pump, inlet manifold, turbo, fuel pump gear, cylinder head (because one temp sensor thread is different), flywheel, clutch.
Engine mounts are also different but thats relative to the frame its going in.

The 2KD at 2.5ltr is a different kettle of fish. However it is the younger attractive underage sister and as such should also be left alone.

The VD V8 is the brother from the outset.. the clue is in the title VD.....dont say I didnt warn you.

[Gnarly4X]

... Ive recently been balls deep in a later 1KD.

My hat is off to you. 

You are like a Resurrection Rambo!! 

Not only do you have to “know” something, you have to be able to “DO” something. 

Although I’ve never been attracted to the diesel engine when that option was available to me, diesel engines have an incredible and legendary automotive history.

Most of the guys I know have chosen diesel engine power for obvious reasons – like for a tow vehicle.  Or when it’s in your budget – a diesel pusher motorhome.

I’m sure there are gasoline burning semis, but I believe most are turbo-powered diesel engines.

The finest 4-door sedan I’ve ever owned was a Mercedes diesel. 

In all my years of wheeling, I cannot remember any vehicle that was on the trail that was diesel powered. 

Gnarls.

[bigwill837]

There were still a few possible pinholes in the oilpan caused by porosity in the steel maybe because its an oilpan? so Zippo put a good coat of JB weld over the welds. We then made a motor mount negative Jig for mocking up the locations of the mounts in their new locations on the frame rails. once all the measurements were taken we clamped the negative jig in place and made some templates for the side plates out of cardboard. I quickly cut them out with the plasma, which was so handy to have close by any trimming we needed to do was done with the plasma.

You had to notch/modify the KZN-130 pan to clear the solid front axle and high-steer? I think the KZN-130 is IFS. I wonder if a pan from a KZN70 series Prado would clear? Don’t the Prados have a solid front axle?

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Yes the 70 series do have a solid front axle where the 130 is IFS. I didn't even think of finding a pan from a 70 series. I think the main reason that I had to notch the pan was to clear the high steer tie rod, not so much to clear the axle itself.

[CaptainT7m]

Welcome to page  2

ordered this tonight. It should solve the main problem with the thermostat.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/53260/10002/-1

I think I am going to go with this for a radiator fan controller if I go electric: http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm
It gradually brings power into the fan as temperatures rise rather than jolting it on after temps are already high. keeps the electrical system happier.

did you end up using this thermostat? If so, is everything working good with it? if not, did everything work fine stock with the aluminum radiator?

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I haven’t installed it. Instead I went with the lower temp genuine Toyota thermostats.

[CaptainT7m]

I have the 76c toyota thermostat along with the same radiator.  Working on a 87 xtracab frame off project to commemorate my gpa! you'd probably get a kick out of it. I haven't had a chance to run anything or experiment with temps. So I was thinking, if there's a flaw in the original design I should just go ahead and go with the inline thermo right?  I haven't gone to find the upper rad hose yet even. Do you remember the part number or just universal?

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I have the 76c toyota thermostat along with the same radiator.  Working on a 87 xtracab frame off project to commemorate my gpa! you'd probably get a kick out of it. I haven't had a chance to run anything or experiment with temps. So I was thinking, if there's a flaw in the original design I should just go ahead and go with the inline thermo right?  I haven't gone to find the upper rad hose yet even. Do you remember the part number or just universal?

The 76°C thermostat is the right one to use. It should keep everything where it needs to be. Sounds like a cool build. Have you started a build thread yet?

[CaptainT7m]

I'm working on a well thought out build thread.  But for now I threw a pic bomb up on instagram for those who want to see the progess!  on the IG it's @ sargeyoda     https://www.instagram.com/sargeyoda/

[Gnarly4X]

I'm working on a well thought out build thread.  But for now I threw a pic bomb up on instagram for those who want to see the progess!  on the IG it's @ sargeyoda     https://www.instagram.com/sargeyoda/

Hey CaptainT7m,

Holy guacamole! 

I highly commend anyone who is restoring these legendary classics.

In my book, a resto like this is totally awesome and puts you in the Ninja Resto category. 

Photo documenting this is makes it SO nice to witness.

Gnarls.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

over the last few years  I have had a rear axle vibration that was progressively getting worse. I doubt it is the same problem that BlackDiamond has been beateing his head up against. 
Mine was a loose drive flange that had eaten the oil seal. I figured that it would have pulled the gears out of adjustment but miraculously it hadn't. There didn't even seem to be much metal shavings in the oil. I also hadn't lost nearly as much oil as I should have.
Recently I used some vacation days at work to make the installation of the e-locker rear diff a priority. I built the diff first over the course of several weeks. I am sure others can do it much faster, but it was my first diff and I wanted to get it right, wich meant several attempts at the final pattern. Unfourtunately there doesn't seem to be anyone selling a setup and bearing kit for the e-lockers so I had to peice all the parts together.
I used 4.88 Yukon Gears from Marlin and ended up with a pattern that I am happy with.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I started by using the factory gasket as a template for the mounting flange modifications that I would need to make. I also had a section of the orininal housing that I had cut out and saved in order to get the locations just right. As you can see in the pictures, several things need to happen in order to get these to fit:
1. weld up 3 old stud locations and file flat
2. add additional surface area to gasket surface by use of a welder and file flat
3. drill and tap 4 new stud locations
4. grind out a notch for the locking coupler to reside
5. use a punch to beat a recess in the back of the housing (I didn't do this)
I have done this install before with Squadooshes truck but had forgotten the last step. In the end it all worked out because the bolt holding the locking tab on the larger bearing cap turns out to be self clearancing if you just shove it in and tighten the bolts down gradually. using a punch would likely be the easier method and probably would result less hair loss. 

In order to ensure an acurately laid out stud pattern I have a mounting flang that I cut out of a e-locker axle. I then drilled out the threads in the stud holes just enough so that I can bolt it onto my axle and use a transfer punch to mark the centers of the new studs.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

One thing that I did do correctly was make a quick easy harness hooked up to a portable 12v battery that I could use to:
A. test the opperation of the e-locker motor
B. drive the locking collar to the locked position for installation

A simple harness utilizing the built in limiting functions of the motor can be easily assembled without using a relay, or any fancy controllers. All that is needed is a double pole/double throw momentary switch, a 12V power source, 15A fuse and a pigtail from the diff. I used a switch from OTRATTW which is available with custom illuminated graphics and labels and can be had with an independently opperated lampfor the indicator circuit. I will try to find the diagram for this and post it.

while installing the diff I would reccomend using some blocks or in my case a transmission jack. Even though it isn't very heavy, it is helpful while making sure that everything lines up and fits properly. Maybe you live in a world where everything fits the first time and there is nothing but beauty and pleasantness in your life. I don't live in that world, so I used a jack so that I didn't drop it on my teeth. 

Moving the locking collar into the locked position is necessary in order for it to pass the mounting flange. Once the diff is installed and everything seems to be fitting nice, the collar can be unlocked again.

[toyodaaddict]

Nice job setting up your own gears. That will be a great skill to have. I haven't been brave enough to try yet. Though I do find it tempting.

Was the 4runner open diff and 4.10s before?

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Nice job setting up your own gears. That will be a great skill to have. I haven't been brave enough to try yet. Though I do find it tempting.

Was the 4runner open diff and 4.10s before?

Thanks. Yes it was open with 4.10's.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Here is the wiring diagram. Courtesy of Richard Foster NorCal TTORA.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Two of the most critical parts of installing an electric locker in your axle is getting the gasket surface flat and getting the studs mounted acurately and perpendicular from the gasket surface. To do this I used a file with tape over one end. The tape prevents removing any material from the refference surface while removing material from the surface to be prepped. The file can bridge the opening and be refferenced on the already flat exsisting gasket surface. Once the gasket surface was flat I made an aluminum block with a hole drilled in it perpendicular to the bottom reference surface on my drill press. This hole was used as a guide for my hand drill. I had another hole drilled in the block that I threaded on my drill press so that the threads were also perfectly straight. This was used to start the tap perpendicular to the gasket surface as well.

All-in, the work took me 2½ days to complete and go for a break-in drive. I am happy to report that it's now running smoothly with no vibrations at any speeds.

[CaptainT7m]

How has the power steering been? I don’t seem to have any assistance at all. Running new power steering pump, bled a LOT left to right on Jack stands, along with the yotamasters tapped box for hydro assist.