Topic: SqWADoosh's 85 Runner Build Thread

[SqWADoosh]

We have a few local bearing shops and they carry koyo bearings just like the oem at a fraction of the cost. You can't find one close to you?

Haven't really tried. Like I said I can just replace the case for cheap. If for some reason I can't do that then maybe I'll try that.

[zippo]

The crawl box only uses two bearings. They can be had for less then 50 bucks.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

The crawl box only uses two bearings. They can be had for less then 50 bucks.

Maybe I'll give Mitch a call in the morning and see what he can get me them for.

[redneckcustoms13]

Happy birfday!

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Happy birfday!

Thanks, buddy. 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

So thanks to liveoak I now know what it is that has caused my truck to never drive as smooth as it should. When doing my e-locker retrofits this summer I hooked up a obd2 scanner to my truck to see if it was showing any codes (despite the fact that my check engine light was not on) and found I had a vehicle speed sensor error. I figured it was normal and caused by the fact that my engine was out of an automatic yet was using a ECM out of a manual. Well come to find out that not having your vehicle speed sensor hooked up causes poor gas mileage (check) a rough de-accleration (check), as well as some other issues. LO tells me that it is an easy fix of simply splicing into my cluster's harness with the proper wire running from the ECM. So I'm going to take off my passenger kick panel and see what I find and go from there. 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

if the vss was never hooked up then yes, you will see an improvement in drivability, i just don't understand why they wouldn't have connected it and/or the check engine light. it usually takes 2 duplicate errors before the check engine light illuminates so it is possible to pull a code without the engine light being on.
as far as the vss on a 22re you should be able to find the wire on the original body plug that connected to the 22re ECM in the passenger kick panel usually green with blue stripe

Gonna find out today after work what the situation is. Thanks again for all the help, dude.

[blackdiamond]

Sounds like you have a short list of things to get resolved? 

(1) Crawler Box
(2) Drivetrain Vibration
(3) Speed Sensor

I have no doubt that you'll get it rock solid soon! 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Sounds like you have a short list of things to get resolved? 

(1) Crawler Box
(2) Drivetrain Vibration
(3) Speed Sensor

I have no doubt that you'll get it rock solid soon! 

Not sure that I have a crawl box problem anymore. I think it is purely drive line. When I throw yours in though that will tell me.

[H8PVMNT]

Gear noise on decal or coast could be rear diff/ R&P.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Gear noise on decal or coast could be rear diff/ R&P.

Nah I can hear it coming from the cases.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

26. Check engine light not working (was not connected to the ECM, stay away from NW Team Yota if you are going to have a shop do your 3rz swap)
27. Vehicle speed sensor code being thrown (was not connected to the ECM, stay away from NW Team Yota if you are going to have a shop do your 3rz swap)

So after work I dug into my VSS code. I started by taking off my passenger kick panel. I found a rat's nest of poor workmanship and corners cut once again by the clowns at NW Team Yota. These guys are a joke and I can only hope that they go out of business before they steal more people's money.



After about an hour of sorting through the mess and trying to find the VSS wire for an early 22RE (a 1985 22RE in my case) I finally found it attached to stock yellow connector that goes to the stock ECM. It is a green wire with blue striping and red dots.



I used a jewelery screwdriver and released the pin and corresponding wire from the stock connector thinking I could just connect it to the correct connector on the 3RZ ECM. Well unfortunately the pin hole on the 3RZ connector is a smaller size.



So I found a purple wire that was connected to the 3RZ ECM, but was cut and going nowhere. So I unpinned it from the 3rz ECM and spliced it together with the VSS wire and plugged it into the proper pin hole on the 3RZ ECM (E5 plug, pin hole number 8).



I then got on the phone with liveoak and told him what I found and what I had done. He then let me know that I also needed to check to make sure those clowns hadn't neglected to connect the STP wire as well (surprise surprise they hadn't done it). This is the diagram that shows what the STP wire does:



So I found the STP wire right next to where I found the VSS wire on the same stock connector from my 22re ECM. It is a green and white wire with red dots. The problem I immediately found was that once again the wire's pin was too big for the 3rz ECM however there were no other cut wires leading to nowhere that I could steal. Luckily liveoak was on the phone with me and was able to ascertain that there were quite a few wires connected to the 3RZ ECM that were for an automatic transmission setup only and were more or less dummy wires that were not doing anything. So I stole a white and red wire from the E6 plug and repeated the process I had done with the VSS wire. The STP wire is pinned into the 21st pin hole on the E5 plug.



Finally I wanted to see why my check engine light had not been working. Turns out that they had lazily neglected to connect it to the harness also. I found the purple wire for the check engine light in another stock 22re connector that was laying unused in my rat's nest and once again unpinned a unused wire from the E6 plug on the 3RZ ECM, spliced, and plugged it into the proper pin hole on the 3RZ ECM(E5 plug, pin hole number 4).

I wish now that I would have done this in reverse order as I would have used the purple wire that I stole for splicing the VSS wire for the check engine light wire so I could have some color continuity. If I ever opt to sell this truck god help anyone who ever has to try and figure out all this   . I did a really quick job of this as you can tell by my taped wire splices, however I plan on cleaning this all up with proper butt connectors when I do my already planned wiring job on my Christmas break from work. In the meantime I pulled my negative battery cable for 45 minutes to reset my ECM, reconnected it and fired my truck up. Immediately I saw that my check engine light is now illuminated when the key is turned to accessory power only (was not there before) and goes off once the truck is started. The truck does appear to be driving a little better, however I think the computer will need to learn for 60-100 miles before I see the real improvement in mileage and smoothness.

A huge thanks to liveoak for the help over the last couple of days and for notifying me that I was ignoring a crucial problem. Here is the link to the 3rz ECM wiring for all the different years that I used from his build thread: http://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9E6DF8280769A7DC!215&authkey=!AEt2zbS8DiQ8fZY&ithint=file%2czip

[redneckcustoms13]

Glad you got that sorted out. When you go back in there to clean up the quickie, solder those joints and use ahesive lined heat shrink, it's not very expensive and won't corrode like a big wonky butt connection will in the future. Especially with water crossings.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Glad you got that sorted out. When you go back in there to clean up the quickie, solder those joints and use ahesive lined heat shrink, it's not very expensive and won't corrode like a big wonky butt connection will in the future. Especially with water crossings.

I'll be using these http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink,-Solder-&-Crimp/p_805407



Heat shrink, solder, and crimp all in one shot. However if water crossing gets to these connections then I'm already hosed as my ECM will be fried. We don't have a lot of water crossings here in WA. The ones that we do don't get that high.

[blackdiamond]

The only issue that I see if that you're automatic transmission is still not working.   

 

[blackdiamond]

Not sure that I have a crawl box problem anymore. I think it is purely drive line. When I throw yours in though that will tell me.

What are you running for a front driveshaft?  I have two high angle CV shafts and I'm fairly certain that I could run my front in the rear without an issue as long as I wasn't off road pushing the travel limits of everything.  You don't have a front CV do you?

[Sparkplug]

The 3rz swap page calls for that pin, 21, to be removed? I removed mine. Now I'm thinking I'm going to put it back in.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

The 3rz swap page calls for that pin, 21, to be removed? I removed mine. Now I'm thinking I'm going to put it back in.

It depends on what year your engine is and corresponding ECM is I believe.

[84_yota_4wd]

When doing your wiring clean up I would still go out and get a soldering gun or iron. The connectors you are looking into are nice, but when putting a 1" hard plastic connector close to the ecm, I have found It really makes for a big ugly harness as those are bulky and if you have to make a quick turn with the wire can also cause issues.

A simple hook solder and a small amount of heat shrink will not act much different than a regular uncut wire and will look nice buttoned up in nice tight harness.

Also its much cheaper to buy solder and heat shrink. Just my 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

So let me run this one by you guys. My truck's vibration problem appears to go away when I have a passenger.... Anyone have any clues as to how that can be?

[OVRAROK]

does it matter what the weight of said passenger is? will a 10lb sack of potatoes stop the vibration?

[RATCATCHER38]

When doing your wiring clean up I would still go out and get a soldering gun or iron. The connectors you are looking into are nice, but when putting a 1" hard plastic connector close to the ecm, I have found It really makes for a big ugly harness as those are bulky and if you have to make a quick turn with the wire can also cause issues.

A simple hook solder and a small amount of heat shrink will not act much different than a regular uncut wire and will look nice buttoned up in nice tight harness.

Also its much cheaper to buy solder and heat shrink. Just my 

I second this. When I discovered heat shrink it made me look like an instant pro. Won't pull out or vibrate loose either.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

does it matter what the weight of said passenger is? will a 10lb sack of potatoes stop the vibration?

The weight of a person. I can't imagine a sack of potatoes will do the trick.

[blackdiamond]

The weight of a person. I can't imagine a sack of potatoes will do the trick.

Try taking the seat out and going for a ride.

[blackdiamond]

So let me run this one by you guys. My truck's vibration problem appears to go away when I have a passenger.... Anyone have any clues as to how that can be?

Is it a feel, hear, or both type of vibration? 

Weight on the seat could close the gap on something in the seat. The entire truck will shift to the passenger side changing angles in the suspension, but not sure why it would change a vibration. Maybe something in the exhaust is just barely contacting. Are the heat shields tight?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Is it a feel, hear, or both type of vibration? 

Weight on the seat could close the gap on something in the seat. The entire truck will shift to the passenger side changing angles in the suspension, but not sure why it would change a vibration. Maybe something in the exhaust is just barely contacting. Are the heat shields tight?

It isn't a rattle caused by something being loose. It is a vibration. I did find that my drive shaft was not in phase so I rectified that as well as shifted my gear around so that more weight is on the passenger side. Will report back tomorrow on the results.

[blackdiamond]

It isn't a rattle caused by something being loose. It is a vibration. I did find that my drive shaft was not in phase so I rectified that as well as shifted my gear around so that more weight is on the passenger side. Will report back tomorrow on the results.

What was your last mod before you noticed the vibration?  Is your driveshaft angles maxed out?  Any chance that the extra weight is enough to reduce the angle just enough to resolve the issue?  I'm just thinking out loud...

Do you notice a shift to the passenger side when you have a passenger?  I don't know how soft your springs are...

[84_yota_4wd]

Body Mounts Tight?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

What was your last mod before you noticed the vibration?  Is your driveshaft angles maxed out?  Any chance that the extra weight is enough to reduce the angle just enough to resolve the issue?  I'm just thinking out loud...

Do you notice a shift to the passenger side when you have a passenger?  I don't know how soft your springs are...

This all started when I put duals in. Putting the driveshaft into phase didn't change anything. Next up to try is to drop the crossmember to the lower position so that my cases are not contacting the body.

Body Mounts Tight?

I'll have to check this.

[redneckcustoms13]

You say it was out of phase in regard to the driveshaft. It is only balanced in 1 location. So you could remove the slip yoke end and rotate it 180° and try again?