Topic: SqWADoosh's 85 Runner Build Thread

[SqWADoosh]

I'm considering pushing 37s off until 2017 or at least until after next summer. My 35s have so much life left in them and there are other things I can spend my money on. My truck has already proven I don't NEED them. In fact one of the biggest reasons for getting them is because I'm geared for them with 5.29s and my motor. Now that I will be towing to Moab that isn't as big of a deal. I don't know, we will see how things pan out. I'm in need of new power steering either way. I also will be picking up a soft top as well as 2 new batteries with a complete overhaul of wiring so it comes down to $$$ as always.

[blackdiamond]

I'm considering pushing 37s off until 2017 or at least until after next summer. My 35s have so much life left in them and there are other things I can spend my money on. My truck has already proven I don't NEED them.

I think this would be a great choice.  The 37s will be a much bigger upgrade in Washington than in Moab.  Ground clearance isn't the biggest issue on the vast majority of trails.  Maximize your value in the tires you have...

What kind of RPM were your turning on the highway going to California?  The the tire diameter should be under 7% different so at 3,000 it should only be a couple hundred RPM difference.  Is that enough to get you out of the powerband or really impact your fuel economy?  I know some engines are more picky that others.

I'm not sure my nearly stock gearing is really the best combo with my midrange cam...it doesn't seem to pull at higher RPM like my 85 did.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

I think this would be a great choice.  The 37s will be a much bigger upgrade in Washington than in Moab.  Ground clearance isn't the biggest issue on the vast majority of trails.  Maximize your value in the tires you have...

What kind of RPM were your turning on the highway going to California?  The the tire diameter should be under 7% different so at 3,000 it should only be a couple hundred RPM difference.  Is that enough to get you out of the powerband or really impact your fuel economy?  I know some engines are more picky that others.

I'm not sure my nearly stock gearing is really the best combo with my midrange cam...it doesn't seem to pull at higher RPM like my 85 did.

RPM range is around 3600-3800 RPM from 70-80 MPH.

[1985CRAWLER]

Why is it that almost every rig I see on here guys are running the drop pitman arms? I have always asked for a flat arm when I order high steer kits because I don't want the spring to whack it on up travel. I realize for a taller rig a drop arm helps with steering geometry, but on lower rigs what's the deal with it?

I run a flat arm on my high steer on 85 runner, wouldn't be possible with an ifs frame but yea like Andrew said the castle nut will hit the frame most of the time , I ran into this problem but I just let the nut self clearance the frame lol I was gonna notch it but meh it works, mine sits barely at 24" frame to ground with flat ruf and with a drop arm I had 0 up travel , but on my other Toyota with ifs frame that sits at like 26.5 frame to ground the drop arm is perfect fit , really depends on people's setup and frame and steering box location

[84_yota_4wd]

What size springs are you running man

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

What size springs are you running man

5" All-Pros front and rear. However with me using their low profile hanger and 4" shackles in the front it is the equivalent of me running 4" springs in the front.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

what? you planned a Moab trip without me?

 

I'm still trying to decide if I like you or not. 

[84_yota_4wd]

Thats really odd i run the same setup but with 5 in shackles, I no clearance problems with my pitman arm.

Is your steering box in the factory location?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Thats really odd i run the same setup but with 5 in shackles, I no clearance problems with my pitman arm.

Is your steering box in the factory location?

You have the low profile hanger from All-Pro? This one: http://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupsuspension/spring-hanger/low-profile-front-spring-hanger

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Installed a new air filter and changed my coupler to a straight shot instead of the 45* it was before. This new AEM filter is twice the size so she should breathe a lot better now. Picked up a pre-filter for it too.

[blackdiamond]

The pre filter is a great idea. Is that an oil type filter like K&N?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

The pre filter is a great idea. Is that an oil type filter like K&N?

No it is a AEM dryflow. It does not use oil. That was on purpose. Those oiled ones are and foul your MAF sensor.

[1985CRAWLER]

Yes AEM are the best, k&n filters with there oil is what gets inside your intake and collects on your throttle body,

i have an AFE dry plus filter. i like it, non restrictive and oil-less and washable and reusable

[blackdiamond]

Yes AEM are the best, k&n filters with there oil is what gets inside your intake and collects on your throttle body,

i have an AFE dry plus filter. i like it, non restrictive and oil-less and washable and reusable

I have some top of the line Napa Gold filters that I picked up in bulk for 70% off!

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

FINALLY found a elocker locally for a good price $200 for the entire 3rd out of an FJ Cruiser. I met the guy and hooked it up to my wiring and made sure it worked then headed home to swap them out. New motor went in without a hitch and my locker is fully operational again. I then set about tearing into my old motor. Heres what I found:















Turns out that the internals of the motor actually never were compromised by water. You can see in picture number 3 and 4 that it appears that I have a terminal that is bent out of shape and burned a divet into the contact point on the gear. This is what it is supposed to look like:





So don't really know what to do at this point. I was hopeful that it was merely going to be a matter of cleaning all the out with contact cleaner however it would appear to be worse than that. 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Fixed my E-Locker motor. Officially got a trail spare now.  Just did a full rebuild on it with new o-rings and grease. Hooked it up and it worked like a charm.

[Hodor.]

Crazy how much the elocker motor setup looks like the 4wd actuator in the taco front diffs.  I have torn it apart a number of times and wish it was as easy of a fix as you came across!  Just curious what you are running for wiring for your elocker?  I have a buddy that is crazy good at that stuff and said the off the shelf kits are really good at frying the motors.  Most are not designed after the factory wiring off the tacomas and that seems to be the problem.. Glad you got it fixed!!! Trail spare for the win 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

I'm using the 12voltguy wiring kit. It is great and was not to blame. What happened was i was stupid and hit the switch to turn on the rear locker while it was submerged in the creek at Fordyce. This appears to have caused a short that ran to the contact you see with the burn mark on it.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

Being submerged shouldn't have caused it to short if there was no water intrusion into the e locket motor. Might have just been a fluke

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

The plug was likely intruded and that is where it shorted and then traveled through the wiring to the contact where it finally met resistance at the contact plate where you can see it burned.

[blackdiamond]

I'm using the 12voltguy wiring kit. It is great and was not to blame. What happened was i was stupid and hit the switch to turn on the rear locker while it was submerged in the creek at Fordyce. This appears to have caused a short that ran to the contact you see with the burn mark on it.

You won't have to worry about water in Moab, at least nothing deep enough to submerge a diff.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

You won't have to worry about water in Moab, at least nothing deep enough to submerge a diff.

Doesn't matter. I intend to solve this problem. I don't like having weak points.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

you better find someone to drive for you then 

 

[blackdiamond]

Good Plan.

you better find someone to drive for you then 

Clearly you're not holding any punches.  Way to get personal!



I was just thinking that all manual lockers are a "weak point", but sometimes they are the best compromise for a street driven rig so I completely understand the choice.

Can you manually engage an e-locker without the motor?  I'm thinking that it should be possible.  It seems that air pressure is required for an ARB, but you can manually engage the cable type locker and I think there's a cable conversion for the e-locker, right?  You can do a lot with a "spool" in the rear vs. an open differential like an ARB would give you.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

He's just a ball buster, Jon. So am I so I quite enjoy it. Besides he has to bring a Jeeper with him when he goes wheeling. That should tell you a lot about him as a driver... 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Can you manually engage an e-locker without the motor?  I'm thinking that it should be possible.  It seems that air pressure is required for an ARB, but you can manually engage the cable type locker and I think there's a cable conversion for the e-locker, right?  You can do a lot with a "spool" in the rear vs. an open differential like an ARB would give you.

You can indeed manually engage and disengage the e-locker. It is actually rather easy, all you have to do is pull the motor (4 bolts) and move the gear inside the diff left to lock or right to unlock.

I don't think I'm going to have any more problems. My E-Lockers have been great to me so far and my front got me through the entire Rubicon on its own. I simply didn't do a good enough job on waterproofing my plug and that is going to be an easy fix. I think I'm going to take Mike's advice and just create a cocoon of RTV around it to waterproof it. Then when I need to unplug it again (hopefully no time soon) I'll just have to peel away the RTV.

[blackdiamond]

i am just kidding . i just saw an opening for a joke. I'm sure he's a fine driver.

I knew that!

[throttle]

2. Shifter boot tattered (Remove/Replace - Only place I've found them is on Ebay)



http://www.ebay.com/itm/321265721447?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649




Very nice build!! Are those the Moab seats? How are they holding up?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

They are very high quality. Didn't find them very comfortable at first but now i love them. I compare it to a pair of quality boots. You've got to break them and your body in and then they become very comfortable. They have a lot more support than most seats.

[blackdiamond]

They are very high quality. Didn't find them very comfortable at first but now i love them. I compare it to a pair of quality boots. You've got to break them and your body in and then they become very comfortable. They have a lot more support than most seats.

Moab seats?  Like for the trailer ride?