Topic: SqWADoosh's 85 Runner Build Thread

[helipilot77]

I was trying to find a specific spot on the video, but couldn't recognize anything in my bounce around attempt.  There was a fun spot just down from a switchback that wasn't too far before the bridge into Rubicon springs

It sounds like your thinking of big sluice? That is on part II around 2:14:00 which is where we met Sky and his crew from Oregon coming up the opposite direction and had to shuffle around each other. Always fun to meet a legend on the trail.

[blackdiamond]

It sounds like your thinking of big sluice? That is on part II around 2:14:00 which is where we met Sky and his crew from Oregon coming up the opposite direction and had to shuffle around each other. Always fun to meet a legend on the trail.

2:14 is the end of Part II?

I attached a picture of the spot that I remember, I think.  I ended up going down the route on the right (as viewed going down) and later watched someone take the left and thought that was a better deal.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Got my exhaust fixed yesterday. My exhaust guy is one in a million. Dude spent almost 2 hours completely re-doing everything including adding 2 new sets of hangers (it is much more supported now) and charged me $65! 

I've got a horse trade setup with HeliPilot for his E-Locker motor (originally my E-Locker motor that we had swapped a while back) so just need to get together with him to get that and everything will be fixed. The plan is once I have that E-Locker in hand and in my diff then I can take my current motor and take my time re-building it and then when everything is all said and done I should have a trail spare should this ever happen again. Though I'm going to take steps to insure it doesn't including using copious amounts of dielectric lube and rtv to make sure the motors are well waterproof going forward. Thinking that this RTV should be the right choice for all the flanges:

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

So while attempting to address my low idle on cold start that I have been having lately. I took my throttle body and attached IAC off of my truck and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. After re-assembling everything and firing up my truck I am idling at 2500 RPM that then creeps to above 3k RPM within 30 seconds. Everything is re-attached and I don't see where I could have caused a vacuum leak. I'm wondering if the throttle body cleaner I used toasted the IAC sensor. This one in particular:



Which is attached the IAC which is attached the the throttle body.

[redneckcustoms13]

Idk, mine idles at about 450 rpm for the first few minutes when cold. My iac was froze up when I got it, I attempted to clean and free it up. I don't believe I did any good at it because it isn't fix anything. 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Idk, mine idles at about 450 rpm for the first few minutes when cold. My iac was froze up when I got it, I at replied to clean and free it up. I don't believe I did any good at it because it isn't fix anything.

I'd happily trade back my low idle on cold for what I have now 

[redneckcustoms13]

Are you sure it isn't stuck?

[OVRAROK]

I Would run it for a min or two, see if you can't get all that cleaner fumes out

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Are you sure it isn't stuck?

I never was able to get into the IAC as the previous owner had stripped 2 of the 4 screws that hold it to the throttle body. I simply sprayed the cleaner down the pipes to clean it out. It could very well be stuck open.

[OVRAROK]

did you try taking a 12 point socket slightly smaller then head on bolt, tapping it on

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

did you try taking a 12 point socket slightly smaller then head on bolt, tapping it on

They are screws not bolts.

[OVRAROK]

 try tapping a 12 point socket on those stuck screws

[zippo]

Homedepot or lowes sells a stripped screw extractor. Using a drill it cuts a hole flip the bit over unscrew it. You can also buy new iac valves. They run about 200$

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Homedepot or lowes sells a stripped screw extractor. Using a drill it cuts a hole flip the bit over unscrew it. You can also buy new iac valves. They run about 200$

Already got a line on one from a local wrecker for $90. Well its for a throttle body with I'm hoping an attached IAC. Leaving work here shortly to go find out.

[redneckcustoms13]

Wish I could find one for $90...

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Fixed it. My theory was correct. I had fried that IAC sensor.

[OVRAROK]

so was the tb cleaner the wrong stuff, is it labeled in small print some where don't use for iac

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

so was the tb cleaner the wrong stuff, is it labeled in small print some where don't use for iac

It just is not sensor safe. Its harsh . It has to be to cut all the grime on the throttle body.

[1985CRAWLER]

pics or i dont believe you

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

pics or i dont believe you

Pics of what lol?

[1985CRAWLER]

im just fawkin with ya! cool you got the motor and exhaust all fixed, whats next on the list for this turd mobile?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

im just fawkin with ya! cool you got the motor and exhaust all fixed, whats next on the list for this turd mobile?

Currently bidding on a E-Locker motor on eBay. Once that is sorted she'll be back to 100%. Then its time to start taking steps to prepare for 37s. My power steering pump still whines in the rocks and I want to upgrade to the PSC kit to be able to turn the bigger tires. Need to trim the fenders as well. Also need to fix my shitty up travel. Plan is to purchase the 3/4 less than stock pitman from Sky to fix that.

[mudmaster]

Glad you got it worked out. Just ordered my first 38.......

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Glad you got it worked out. Just ordered my first 38.......

as in 38" tire?

[mudmaster]

as in 38" tire?

Yup. 38X12.5X16.50 TSL SX.

[redneckcustoms13]

Why is it that almost every rig I see on here guys are running the drop pitman arms? I have always asked for a flat arm when I order high steer kits because I don't want the spring to whack it on up travel. I realize for a taller rig a drop arm helps with steering geometry, but on lower rigs what's the deal with it?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Why is it that almost every rig I see on here guys are running the drop pitman arms? I have always asked for a flat arm when I order high steer kits because I don't want the spring to whack it on up travel. I realize for a taller rig a drop arm helps with steering geometry, but on lower rigs what's the deal with it?

Mine came with one and I will be replacing it soon with the 3/4 from sky. I can't run a flat because the castle nut will hit the frame.

[redneckcustoms13]

Twice I've gotten sent a drop, I call and complain until I get the flat one that I asked for lol. I also had the tre in there when I mounted the ifs box kit so I could be sure it cleared the frame. It's about 1/2" of clearance. You should be fine with the 3/4 drop I'd imagine, your teuck is kind of tall so when you toss 37s on it you'll be extending bump stops I'm sure anyway

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Twice I've gotten sent a drop, I call and complain until I get the flat one that I asked for lol. I also had the tre in there when I mounted the ifs box kit so I could be sure it cleared the frame. It's about 1/2" of clearance. You should be fine with the 3/4 drop I'd imagine, your teuck is kind of tall so when you toss 37s on it you'll be extending bump stops I'm sure anyway

My truck isn't tall. 26" from frame to ground. Also ill be retracting bump stops to gain up travel. They are set incredibly low right now. There is pictures of them earlier in the build.

[blackdiamond]

My truck isn't tall. 26" from frame to ground. Also ill be retracting bump stops to gain up travel. They are set incredibly low right now. There is pictures of them earlier in the build.

You should probably put the bump stops on hold until after you get the 37s so that you only have to work them once.  You never know what's going to rub until you put the tires on.  I have never run bump stops, they were in the original plan but have been dropped from the list since the springs seem to be handling the compression just fine.