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If it is changing, you must still have air in the system. I would bleed it more before you start changing parts. Toyota clutch hydraulics can be a real pain to get all the air out of.
Crack the bleeder and let gravity work its magic first THEN do the pump and crack method. I bleed clutches and brakes all the time by my lonesome at the shop.
keep the res full while doing it and let it have the drips for a bit until you see a steady drip with no bubbles then go from there! Hope this helps!
You still having bleeding issues?
Ya man. Just got home today.
I'm wondering what you guys are using for paint on your parts? I've used Krylon rattle can as well as Rustoleum neither of which has held up worth a damn. I saw twisted toy's paint job here and would love to replicate that quality just in flat black instead.
I liked this question and remembered seeing a product advertised I think on hot rod garages you tube channel. It is made Eastwood and is a two part paint like what you would use in a sprayer. I haven't personally used it but i would suspect that it is tougher due to the hardeners in it. http://www.eastwood.com/paints/2k-aero-spray-paints.html
Any paint product will last as long as its taken care of. That's why we do extensive corrosion inspections on aircraft to maintain that protective barrier. Im sure if I washed and inspected my truck every 7 or 14 days my sliders wouldn't look like crap. Also, paint prep is key.
Man how have i missed this build! Badass runner man keep up the good work! I love clean trucks
Thanks brother! It hasn't been around very long on here so that could be the reason.
Keep it up hope you keep it clean! That's what I'm going for with my first gen. One rubicon trip and it's still in good shape hope to keep it that way
Anyone with their ear to the ground heard when dual transfer adapters might be back in stock?
X2 I've been bitching about this for awhile.
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