Topic: SqWADoosh's 85 Runner Build Thread

[toyodaaddict]

No problem. Another thing ill toss out there,I think I saw you mentioned the tg six shooters. Are you familiar with the 5th stud mod? it will save you alot of $$$ and keep you away from trail gear at the same time. I know some pretty hardcore guys with 39+'' tires that swear by it. My pops did the 5th stud on his, Im just running arp studs.  Eventually I would like to try marlins 25mm kit with 5th stud mod. Anyway, im looking forward to seeing this progress. sounds like you have big plans.

[84Flatbed]

Looks like 15x10 2.5" bs to me.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

No problem. Another thing ill toss out there,I think I saw you mentioned the tg six shooters. Are you familiar with the 5th stud mod? it will save you alot of $$$ and keep you away from trail gear at the same time. I know some pretty hardcore guys with 39+'' tires that swear by it. My pops did the 5th stud on his, Im just running arp studs.  Eventually I would like to try marlins 25mm kit with 5th stud mod. Anyway, im looking forward to seeing this progress. sounds like you have big plans.

I am aware of the 5th stud mod. I have a couple of issues that were the reason for me leaning more towards six shooters. The first is that I don't have a shop right now (all the work I do is on borrowed floor space) and the second is that my driver side knuckle is toast and I figured that if I'm going to replace a knuckle I might as well upgrade them. I feel the same way about Trail Gear as most guys do though in that they are the Walmart of wheeling companies and would much rather support the little guys. I wish someone else made a six shooter equivalent  I have a buddy who has recently done Marlin's 25mm upgrade and I would like to go that route eventually as well.

So I'm 100% not going to buy those tires. I just think it is not the right choice for many reasons. I do have a lead on some 1st gen rears and 3rd gen rears. Which do you guys think is better? Should I opt for the longer 51" 3rd gens keeping in mind my goal?

[toyodaaddict]

Ive never used 3rd gen rears. I think they take a little more work, mounting the hanger further out off the front of the frame.  1st or 2nd gen spings will get you plenty of flex. I use all of a 14'' shock. 3rd gens may get you a bit more. When I did the suspension on my dads runner I used  2nd gen rears on top of 1st gen rears, for a six leaf pack and 3 leaf chevy's out back. This is the same way I did my first gen pickup. With the extra weight of the 4runner it was to soft and acted a little strange on the road so I added a 7th leaf up front and went to 4 leaf chevy's. It changed everything, rides great, flexes great. 24'' to frame under the door on true 35'' tires. I suspect it will drop an inch or so over the summer.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Prowling CL again today looking for parts for the build. Found a guy selling these:



"Ifs Hubs conversion for straight axle with trail gear chromoly spindles, TG new brass knuckle bushings, TG 30 spline longfield hub gears, trailgear super metal hub studs, stock toyota knuckles and tacoma brake rotor upgrade, all brand new - $450"

He's also got an IFS width axle with shafts for $100 (no 3rd but I have one obviously).

Would be much better than spacers that is for sure. I'm not sure the IFS hubs conversion is worth that money though.

[Chucks79]

Looks like you are doing some cool modifications to your Runner. Its awesome that you can still get parts for these.

[MRHilux87]

Ive been thinking about using IFS hubs too. Id offer him 300 and see what he says.  The brakes from the taco are a big plus for me. 

[John Doe]

Prowling CL again today looking for parts for the build. Found a guy selling these:

"Ifs Hubs conversion for straight axle with trail gear chromoly spindles, TG new brass knuckle bushings, TG 30 spline longfield hub gears, trailgear super metal hub studs, stock toyota knuckles and tacoma brake rotor upgrade, all brand new - $450"
Would be much better than spacers that is for sure. I'm not sure the IFS hubs conversion is worth that money though.

See exactly what you are getting for the $450 he is asking, does it include the rotors and calipers for the tacoma brake upgrade, or just the machined hubbs?

Either way it looks like it would replace your broken knuckle. Speaking of which there are options out there other then trail-crap, the 5th stud has been mentioned but there is also an option to run modified stock knuckles with 6 studs.....

http://www.4x4labs.com/products/steering/6-stud-knuckle-conversion-blocks/

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

See exactly what you are getting for the $450 he is asking, does it include the rotors and calipers for the tacoma brake upgrade, or just the machined hubbs?

Either way it looks like it would replace your broken knuckle. Speaking of which there are options out there other then trail-crap, the 5th stud has been mentioned but there is also an option to run modified stock knuckles with 6 studs.....

http://www.4x4labs.com/products/steering/6-stud-knuckle-conversion-blocks/

Is there any other pitman arm for 6 studs than the TG one?

[John Doe]

Is there any other pitman arm for 6 studs than the TG one?

I believe you mean Steering arm, and yes. 4x4Labs makes 6 stud arms as well. Follow the link below the picture.....

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

I believe you mean Steering arm, and yes. 4x4Labs makes 6 stud arms as well. Follow the link below the picture.....

Yes I did mean steering arm. 4x4 labs is astronomical in their prices. 

I've got a line on some 4" Marlin springs for a good price locally. He claims they are only a year old. Does anyone know when Marlin stopped selling springs?

[MRHilux87]

Alot longer than a year ago. 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Alot longer than a year ago.

Thats what I thought too. Thanks.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Picked up a set of 4" All-Pro front springs today for $200 bucks. They appear to be hardly used based on their arch. I'm well on my way to this suspension overhaul boys!

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

So over my Christmas break I will be doing the following:

1. Installing CB radio and antenna
2. Changing spark plugs
3. Changing spark plug wires
4. Removing radiator and replacing with new csf 3 core radiator
5. Stripping sliders shotty current paint job and replacing with a POR-15 + topcoat replacement
6. Stripping rear bumper and doing the same as with sliders
6. Touching up paint on front bumper

I'm wondering what you guys are using for paint on your parts? I've used Krylon rattle can as well as Rustoleum neither of which has held up worth a damn. I saw twisted toy's paint job here and would love to replicate that quality just in flat black instead.

[MRHilux87]

Flat black usually doesn't have the same "hardness" as a gloss paint so it will never hold up the same.  Rattle can paint in general simply doesn't harden like a real enamel or oil based paint with a hardener mixed in.  So basically most of the rattle cans are the same...

[twistedtoy92]

I used Rustoleum Semi-Gloss... It seems to hold up alright but most rattle cans are all the same... I find that when I brake clean the out of my parts then blow them off with an air gun and heat up my can of paint and shake the living out of it is when I get the best results.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

I used Rustoleum Semi-Gloss... It seems to hold up alright but most rattle cans are all the same... I find that when I brake clean the out of my parts then blow them off with an air gun and heat up my can of paint and shake the living out of it is when I get the best results.

An air gun on an oil filtered system? I would think the oil would make it not stock otherwise.

[twistedtoy92]

Yeah we have two 150 gallon tanks in our shop. It works well!

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Yeah we have two 150 gallon tanks in our shop. It works well!

I'm only a little jelly I swear. 

I'm actually considering trying POR-15's top coat found here if it is anything like regular POR 15 it should be a top quality product. Damn is it spendy though!

[MRHilux87]

Its good stuff.  I installed that CSF 3 core radiator a few days ago.  Works great! Mine for some reason came with an automatic tranny cooler on the bottom part.  Im going to try to use it for a power steering cooler. 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Its good stuff.  I installed that CSF 3 core radiator a few days ago.  Works great! Mine for some reason came with an automatic tranny cooler on the bottom part.  Im going to try to use it for a power steering cooler.

Yeah I saw that in the description for it. I thought it was an oil cooler?

[MRHilux87]

A cooler is a cooler if you can make the fitting work.  Ive never had problems with oil temp but I have problems with power steering cooking itself every trip, even with hydro assist steering. 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

A cooler is a cooler if you can make the fitting work.  Ive never had problems with oil temp but I have problems with power steering cooking itself every trip, even with hydro assist steering.

Sweet man I'm stoked to see what you come up with. Take some pics of what you do! I'm guessing it comes with block offs if you choose not to use it right away?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Just found a local dealer here who has Marlin High Steer in stock! For 410 out the door! Going tomorrow after work to pick it up.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

So I've had this issue since I got my 3RZ swap with the clutch not fully disengaging. It is most apparent on inclines and will cause the truck to lurch. I have done some hard searching and it appears that the issue is caused by the slave cylinder's actuating rod not being long enough due to the use of a different bell housing than the stock w56. I've got a PM out to a guy who said he fixed it by replacing the actuating rod with a 12mm Toyota bolt that he ground down. I'm wondering if anyone here who has a 3RZ swap can help me out with the issue. I've done the following already to try and fix it to no avail: Replaced master cylinder, replaced slave cylinder, and bled the system multiple times. The strange part is that immediately after doing a bleed the truck shifts great but it quickly returns after a day or two to the lurching.

In other news I picked up brand new Marlin Hysteer kit for $400 bucks yesterday. Pics to come soon!

[ryantowry_81]

i had to do the same thing in a similar situation when i used a AA bellhouseing to mate a 4.3 to a w56.  it had to have a custom ball pivot to fully disengauge, but the fact that it works well right after bleeding then starts acting up makes me think it might be you still have some air not allowing the slave to fully extend.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

i had to do the same thing in a similar situation when i used a AA bellhouseing to mate a 4.3 to a w56.  it had to have a custom ball pivot to fully disengauge, but the fact that it works well right after bleeding then starts acting up makes me think it might be you still have some air not allowing the slave to fully extend.

When you say a custom ball pivot do you mean the fork did or the slave? Do you have a picture by chance?

[ryantowry_81]

It's been a couple years but I will look for the pictures. If I remember correctly I took the rubber boot off the slave and the plunger came out and I replaced it with the right sized but and bolt with the bolt head ground into a ball. That way I had some adjustment to the length of the plunger rod.

Let me see what I can find for pictures after lunch

Edit:
looking back it was a land cruiser slave   (Toyota Part No. 31470-60022) that had a .75" bore instead of the truck/runner slave with a bore of .8125" giving it a further throw at the clutch fork. it also had a removeable pushrod which allowed me to use the adjustable one with the kit. yours should be the same as shown here:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ5/CS2188/01352.oap?year=1985&make=Toyota&model=4Runner&vi=1272147&ck=Search_01352_1272147_-1&pt=01352&ppt=C0015

although i dont know if it needs to have an adjustable pushrod or if maybe something else is off. personally i would measure the new bellhousing throw and the old stock bellhousing and see if their are any differences before diving down the rabbit hole of trying to adjust your pushrod

[helipilot77]

If it is changing, you must still have air in the system. I would bleed it more before you start changing parts. Toyota clutch hydraulics can be a real pain to get all the air out of.