Dingman's Build Thread

[Dingman.]

Just buy fromt rotors/calipers from an early 70"s chevy

[ryantowry_81]

that is interesting about the 84-85 14bolt, i had never heard it had a different pinion support bearing. I would say if it is in good shape run it, if you think about it that bearing will only see force if the pinion deflects enough to need the nose support. so 99.99% of the time just be spinning with no load on it in your toyota. If you were using the axle like it was designed with a big block or diesel in front of it and a 10k trailer behind you i might say differently but i doubt you will ever put any load on that bearing.

just my 2 cents though

[Dingman.]

Thanks for the input.  i didn't know that it wasn't always riding on that bearing.

[twistedtoy92]

Well if you are running dual transfer cases with large tires ALL of your bearings see increased load in double low in sticky situations. Bearing looks fine though, slap it together and run the piss out of it!

[Dingman.]

Here we go again with the 14bolt...

I would avoid 4.56 axles (unless you are running 4.56 gears).   The carrier breaks are 4.10 and down, and 4.56 and up.  Well my axle fully brings the suck, for it was a 1984' 4.56 axle.   So i bought a spool because i could not reuse my old carrier (4.56 carrier break).  The spool is 4.10 and down, which is what you want.  the 5.38 gears are thick gears, which is what you want.  HOWEVER............ The ring gear bolts on a 4.56 carrier are close to 2.5" long.. where as the ring gear bolts for a 4.10 carrier break are just a hair over 2".  so basically half an inch difference.  Anybody care to take a guess on what my problem is now?  new bolts are listed at roughly $4-5 a piece which i am going to cheap out on and the install kits do not come with new bolts. 




Knowing what i know now. i would only buy an 88' and older axle, (but avoid 84-85).  and i would make sure i bought an axle that had the 4.10 carrier break.  With that said, I think I am going to be a cheap ass and go to pick and pull tomorrow and get ring gear bolts that will work.  I am also debating on buying used wheel hubs with good bearings/seals since my wheel hubs need work.  somebody flapped disked them so they need to be chucked up into the lathe and faced.  The wheel studs are all beat down from somebody pounding them out before so i need to clean the end of the threads or buy new studs.  I need lug nuts, and my wheel bearings/seals are toast which are somewhat pricey to replace. 

[Dingman.]

Got all these goodies waiting to go on.  just getting impatient now.. Lol

[86bobbedtoy]

dude, axles must hate you!!

[1985CRAWLER]

i like those diff covers!

[86bobbedtoy]

SOLID!

[Dingman.]

Here is the pattern i got.   Setting up gears by yourself with the axle on the ground with no jackstands FTW.  Backlash is 0.007"   still need to tighten everything up but i think that is what im going to run.

[1985CRAWLER]

run it and see what happens,maybe your diff killing days are over.

doode, if u needed some jack stands u shouldve let me know, i have a floor jack and stands i can bring by.

[Dingman.]

thanks mike.  lol my buddy brought his jack over and i got the axle out yesterday. but my jack stands are under the truck.

[boomtacoma01]

Sucks about the problems with your rear axle. Looking for a set of tons myself as well. I have a line on a 60 and Sterling 10.25 rear.

[86bobbedtoy]

sure glad to finally see some real progress on that damn axle!!

[Dingman.]

sure glad to finally see some real progress on that damn axle!!

just buttoned up everything on the gears tonight.  everything is torqued down and should be good to go.  The 5.38 ring gear is super close to the 3rd pinion support bearing but it clears so im not going to grind it.   I think the pattern might have slightly changed but not enough to worry about.  There were a few bolt holes on that solid cover that i couldn't get started, so im going to dremel them out slightly, then i can bolt the diff cover on.

Sucks about the problems with your rear axle. Looking for a set of tons myself as well. I have a line on a 60 and Sterling 10.25 rear.

I have just had a few little problems that were just irritating more than anything.  Just trying to show potential problems if someone else is gonna do the same things i did.

[boomtacoma01]

Well I know not to get an 84 to 85 14B. That is some damn good information that could help a few people out.

[Dingman.]

Got my 14bolt perches welded on.  Put the centerpin in the forward most hole so it should have moved my axle back about 1".   My wheelbase is about 109.5" and it was measured at 108" before which is strange because i feel like i moved my front axle more forward/rear axle back more than only 1.5"





This is where i am sitting at height wise.  This is with the tires aired down to 12psi.  so it is the same height as it was on 36" iroks aired down to 10psi.  The only other thing i am concerned about is if the front pack is going to be too soft, I may need to add a leaf or two to the front pack but i am not sure

[Dingman.]

Now my shocks are too long in the back. damn.

[1985CRAWLER]

sweet rear pinion angle!

what size shocks u running in the back, i have some shorter pro craps if u need em. 10s and 12s.

the front springs are really gonna like u if u have bump stops

[Dingman.]

I will have to do bump stops in the front for sure.

I have 12" bilsteins in the front and 13" travel rancho 9000's in the back.  I think the back only has like 2.5" of shock shaft showing.  Unsure on the front because i have to go pick my shocks up before i can put them in for mockup.

I am thinking that if i have to, i will obviously cut the front fender out and make the shock hoop poke up through the fender, but i don't really want to go that route in the back.  "MAYBE" if i get my 12" bilsteins back, they "MIGHT" work out in the back of the truck, because the rancho's i am mocking up are almost the size as a 14" travel bilstein shock.

[86bobbedtoy]

I always ran 6 pack rufs and I think they were soft with a little 22re, I think those are going to be way soft for what you have

[Dingman.]

I think the top two are ruf, rest are the bottom pack of my tg pack.

[86bobbedtoy]

is there 6? I still think they will need more, atleast 1 more if not two, but only one way to find out right

[Dingman.]

is there 6? I still think they will need more, atleast 1 more if not two, but only one way to find out right

Yea i think it is way too soft.  prob add a leaf or two.




Almost finished the rear up tonight.  Got my rear disc brakes/calipers all setup, new rotors/calipers/brake pads.  Got the diff cover siliconed on, axle shafts installed.  Just need brake lines, need to mount my shocks and need to fill er up with gear oil.






Heres an idea of how it is sitting on its own weight.

[1985CRAWLER]

cut those fenders!

[ryantowry_81]

when i one ton swapped my 84 i noticed signifigantly more axle wrap with the RUF hybrid pack and the d60 than with the toy axle. i would du bump stops and a front anti wrap bar to keep that unsprung weight and traction from killing them in short order.

[Nation]

Sittin nice

[86bobbedtoy]

when i one ton swapped my 84 i noticed signifigantly more axle wrap with the RUF hybrid pack and the d60 than with the toy axle. i would du bump stops and a front anti wrap bar to keep that unsprung weight and traction from killing them in short order.

ive heard this, also heard it about the rear to

[ryantowry_81]

I think with the thicker chevy springs they handled it a little better than the ruf pack, at least for me. Still wrapped in the back just not as noticeable as the front. I could feel the front wrap bad just by braking hard

[Dingman.]

I would figure rear axle wrap would be better since i removed the 2" blocks.  I can see the fronts being worse.  Ive never ran ruf pack, but at the moment i feel they are probably too soft.  So i am thinking about adding another leaf or two,  i dont wamt to lift it much more though.

I was always told bump stops and limit straps are your friend with one tons to keep from killing springs