Topic: 1980 build *2 year update!! HYDRO, Axles, seats and more*

[rcbro]

She RUNS! Fuel pump was bad, Got a new one and starter first crank!

Something I didn't mention about my build, that isn't necessary but cool is the wire I'm using. All the wire I'm personally installing is fire resistant which is something we carry and use at work. If you take a stock toyota wire and short it or burn it with flame it shoots down the wire and fries everything. The wire we have is specifically designed to not do this. You can heat it with a torch and it'll burn the outside edge but doesn't catch fire. Pretty slick stuff! 

I decided to run 4gauge wire from the alternator to the starter, then from the starter to the battery. Larger then stock I feel its perfect for the job. I then tossed a fuse in line before the battery just behind the grill for alittle safety. Its always a good idea to put the fuse right around 12" from the battery.



I wish I had our air crimper at home to put the ends on, but alittle manual crimping and solder will be just as sufficient, just doesn't look as clean. Got (2) 4 gauges on the power side, one for the starter and the other for my panel. Then (1) 4 gauge ground to the frame.



I tapped the frame for my ground to the battery, then ran a 4 gauge from that stud to a empty threaded hole on the motor. From the motor I can a 10 gauge ground to the firewall. I also ran another 10 gauge from the stud to a empty threaded insert on the fender.



Here's a few more shots of the panel I built. The power is connected to a 150amp circuit breaker so I can kill the power easily. The little box with green led on the side is the nifty power timer I've been talking about that we have made.





Here's another shot of the engine bay. The factory air box is slightly installed just for starting purposes. I have a pretty slick intake kit coming tomorrow I think most of you'll like!



Another inside shot. All connections made. I'll start figuring out the tach shortly and once I do I'll cover and tape with loom, then dash back in!




Now the video of her running! Straight header, no exhaust. Haven't checked for codes yet, but I'm thinking nothing major.

[THK Matt]

Very clean swap bro, all of your tedious work has paid off.... be proud!

[k5kickin]

haha super sweet truck just spent the past hour reading the whole build and i wish i had the time and $ to do something like this.

[rcbro [OP]]

Almost got the trany tunnel done.

Cut out what was needed to be removed last night.





Picked up some metal from a friend and busted out the cardboard, sharpie and cut off wheel and went to town. Few hours later she just needs fully welded.

[dropzone]

Very nice. It gives me a few ideas. I want to do something similar but removeable. The top two transfer case to transmission bolts are a pain to get to.

[rcbro [OP]]

In the hunt for an intake without all the flashing autozone bling I came across this while searching through some catalogs. Its made by Airaid for the do it yourself people. Basically a 3" tube with bends and straights you cut to work for your application. May be pricing to some, but its enough to do two so I'm splitting it with the brother in law.



Basically cut of the section I needed and removed 3" from the straight section.



I borrowed a large p-clamp for work and used the throttle cable bracket bolt to mount it down. Pretty darn stout!



I've got plenty of clearance from the fan. Plan to make one more bracket for the filter end just to be safe.

[83 Crawler]

so clean ))

[Peterbuilt84]

Do you have any more pics of the trans tunnel? Did you brace it up at all or just use sheet metal? Just cut up the floor in my rig similar to how you did.

[rcbro [OP]]

I used 14g sheet metal, plenty stout, no need for bracing.

[rcbro [OP]]

Cooking with fire now! Just drove the truck.. O my!

Picked my driveshafts up saturday afternoon. DOM tubing, new rear joint and balanced.. :p



I intake tube was rubbing on the coil pack nut, so alittle heat gun massaging and that issue was takin care of. I then found some 3/8 barb fitting, drilled and tapped the tube, coated the fittings with some RTV and we were good to go.



Final engine bay shot ready to rip.



Now onto the exhaust. I was going to pay a local shop to do this, but I figured to try it one last time to save some money. I traded some ammo for a slightly used flowmaster and purchased some bends and straight tube for $50.

I opted to use the Tacoma down tube with the first Cat. Of course it didn't fit So I made it fit. I needed it to go in towards the center of the truck and up for it even to get in there. So I roughly marked where it needed cut and slit the pipe about 3/4 of the way through. Then I muscled it in and bolted it to the mini header.

Alittle pry baring later I had it bent into its new shape. Welded up and grinded smooth.



It does hang alittle low, but I don't see it being an issue.



Everything else is pretty self explanatory. I ran the exhaust over the crossmember and under the rear output.







Then alittle re mount action



Tonight I got an aftermarket tach till I can have some more time to play with the stocker :flipoff2: tossed in some from diff fluid and went for a spin using my long driveway and field for a circle track haha. This thing is fun. Can't wait to really rip it. Played with the duals on my dirt bike jump, very nice!
Then I pulled it back into the shop to scan for codes. Hooked it up, ran the diagnostic routine and guess what. No codes!

[locked 4x4]

Have you tested the led lights yet?

[rcbro [OP]]

I haven't installed them yet

[locked 4x4]

Let us know how u like them when u do

[rcbro [OP]]

The wife to be decided to help working on the truck today in a bikini so I somehow got motivated and got this truck rolling. She managed to get the front bumper cleaned and painted, fenders on, lights and grill on with bulbs and even cleaned the inside!

Last night I got the floor cleaned and sound dampening material in.



Then got the vinyl floor in. It wasn't the easiest as my center trunnel isn't factory, but I made it work. For the holes, this little gadget came in handy.



Had to get the bed back on and there was no muscle around, so I came up with this idea.



A few wasp decided my bed looked like home, so I got stung in the process :mr-t: Also discovered my fuel tank is slightly to tall. A 1" steel spacer in the back mounts solved that issue.

Didn't take much pictures but here's the final results. Tach is temporary until I get factory to work. (i will someday lol)

[rcbro [OP]]

Took it for about a 5 minute drive until I came into an issue.



I'm getting a narly rattle from somewhere mid cab forward. It doesn't shake the cab just sounds horrible as hell. Starts when I get up to about 15 then doesn't go away no matter the speed. Gets worse when throttle is let off.

My clutch fork was rather loose before slave was installed. Wondering if its that, or if maybe that locked hub I haven't took apart yet is causing it

[81 toyota]

i had the same thing happen and i thoght it was my tires out of balence but right after i took my truck to the tire shop i threw a drive line at like 40 miles an hour reely scary... i would check and make shure your lines are bolted up good

[fordh8r]

Nice looking rig. Keep up the good work. Very clean! 

[79toy20r]

Definitely a u joint. They will have a worse vibration/rattle when you let off the gas. Block your wheels and put the truck into neutral. Then crawl underneath and I bet one of the ujoints has significant movement.

[madmothamike]

this is such a nice rig. I really like the attention to detail you have

[rcbro [OP]]

as I mentioned, that shafts are new with rebuilt u joints. Turns out my trany is fubarred. ITs amazing what some "friends of friends" will sell you. I really wish law enforcement could turn there back sometimes, I'd teach this guy a lesson.

Some rattle was associated with a loose unused bracket, however the main noise is coming from the trany. I'm going to run it till she blows lol.

[83 Crawler]

that really sucks dude!

[rcbro [OP]]

my IAC was bad as well, but I got that taken care off. mostly everything is button up and heading to browns camp saturday.

[daniresch]

my transmission was making all kinds of noises before i added dual carbon joint on the rear driveline

[HogCanyonHopper]

you mean dual cardan joint. yeah, mine made all kinds of hideous noise till I installed one with a cv joint.   

[rcbro [OP]]

Haven't updated this in a bit. The vibrations is the fact the trany I got is actually shot and not rebuild. Really sucks but I've been wheeling it.





Sand was a blast and I climbed alot of wicked stuff. Made alot of other guys with they had my motor too haha. Pulled out some huge rigs too. Made a fun trip. I've hit the rocks twice as well, but I keep blowing my steering pump. I think its a combination of issues, so I'm replacing a bunch of stuff this weekend.



Snow's coming so got to get her ready. And for fun, my rc version of the yota

[rcbro [OP]]

2 Year update coming fast! Been awhile since I posted here. With all the old picture issues I wasn't visiting as much. Now everything seems to be working!

I've been busy making harnesses for a few local RZ swaps and now have some money to play with. So been upgrading the truck slowly. Going to Moab in April, so time to get rolling!

Got a tacoma housing in back now







While doing this I noticed my skys shock hoop decded to eat my frame. so plated that



Some new seats



Kept the brakes from a Tacoma I robbed a motor from. So installed Tacoma brakes up front with the help of the Front range flanges. While I was there, I finally installed the IFS hubs.





Hydro assist in





UPDATED HYRDO ASSIST PARTS LIST

Ram
Quantity: 1
Item Number: 9-4410-06
1.5X6X.75 DA HYD CYL

Ram outlet is 3/8" which is alittle to large, this swivel end reduces it back down to 1/4" for your hoses
Quantity: 2
Item Number: 9-1501-6-4
3/8 NPTM x 1/4 NPTF 90 SWIVEL

90* swivels, Need these to connect your hoses to your box
Quantity: 2
Item Number: 9-1501-4-4
1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTF 90 SWIVEL

Hoses, these seemed to work well for me, however if you are taller, you may want a few inches longer
Quantity: 2
Item Number: 916-1436
1/4" X 36" 1/4 NPTM X 1/4 NPTM 2750 PSI HYD HOSE

[rcbro [OP]]

The 3rz pump was giving me headache after headache. So went psc 





Now everything seems all fine and dandy. But, my truck sits low, and my ram and oil pan do not like each other. It has now left me broke. So I need to move the ram. I am not raising the truck. I do have 2" fox air bumps to put on, but that would leave me with maybe 1" of uptravel if I leave it where its at.







Suggestions are highly welcome. I've been reading and searching for better pics all day of a solution.


Also I went to Autozone.com and started doing some vehicle searching. It's amazing how much prices vary for virtually the same thing. I went with the cheapest route for a 1" bore MC.

It fits a 1994 Toyota Truck 4WD 3.0L . Autozone part number M52530
Fenco Reman/Master Cylinder (Brake System) (M52530) | AutoZone.com Only $44.00

Got home and in an hour the MC was bled, installed and brakes bled. Guess what? My peddle is now Rock Hard and the truck stops!

The MC bolts right in, only 1 line needs slightly bent.





Did get some pictures of my rock lights. These are the 18 pod white rock light kit from XKglow.com . They come with a key fob that allows you to turn them to strobe, breath mode and just steady on. The green ones not shown are great for bling

Installation is a snap. They are just 3m double side adhesive. They have been on for at least a year now. Seen sand, rock and snow, along with power washer abuse. I've only had 1 fall off and its because I didn't clean that spot when I stuck it on.

[HogCanyonHopper]

wow. those pics with the lights are awesome. nice looking rig. I likey. you'll be very happy with that PSC pump. I did that right off with my swap. nice rig

[ben_teq]

Beautiful truck man. Those lights look mint I might order a set.

[rcbro [OP]]

Ram ended up making my snow wheeling night short lived. It decided to hit my oil pan.. Onto round two