Author Topic: 1980 build *2 year update!! HYDRO, Axles, seats and more*  (Read 106390 times)

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rcbro

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #360 on: May 17, 2012, 07:04:29 PM »
I went over my pin outs one last time. I am ready to rock. Going to work on my panel layout later this evening and maybe get the panel built at work.

I've still got to plumb the motor, rear brake lines, slave cyliner and put in my duals.

Here's my wire findings.




Tankard

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #361 on: May 17, 2012, 07:53:45 PM »
Very nice!  :smokin:
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rcbro [OP]

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #362 on: May 17, 2012, 08:23:39 PM »
Most guys have chosen to reuse the factory fuse box from there donor vehicle. Out of everything in the engine bay, that was what took the most damage on my donor rig. After doing some initial searching it was apparent not much of the fuse box was actually being used in the first place. My work specializes in many different aspects of 12V wiring, one of which is building custom panels for emergency vehicles. Because of this, I'm fortunate enough to have everything at my disposal to make a new fuse block for the motor and add my accessory fuses in the same section. This leaves me with only 1 fuse box in the engine bay.

If I had an EFI truck I would have chosen to use the factory box, but I don't so this method will work great. I first made my fuse block.



This block will go in a nearly enclosed frame with a lid, it will future a super relay and a power timer so when my ignition shuts off, my timer wires will remain powered for a specified amount of time. Below should be my final panel layout.


THK Matt

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #363 on: May 17, 2012, 10:27:19 PM »
damn....
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

dropzone

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #364 on: May 18, 2012, 01:00:21 AM »
3RZ FAQ Material..
81 Toyota Trekker 221:1
build thread: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=86346.0

1994 4Runner - Long Term Expedition type Build

THK Matt

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #365 on: May 18, 2012, 08:18:47 AM »
I think ur whole.thread is lol.
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

83 Crawler

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #366 on: May 18, 2012, 09:59:39 AM »
I think ur whole.thread is lol.

i would have to agree

rcbro [OP]

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #367 on: May 18, 2012, 09:07:20 PM »
Thanks guys, just trying to give back to the forums for all the help its given me.

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #368 on: May 19, 2012, 05:54:14 PM »
From the wiring impaired this is captivating...
You'll never take me alive

rcbro [OP]

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #369 on: May 20, 2012, 09:16:49 PM »
My weekend was pretty full, but I'll be gone partying next weekend so I tried to get some work done.

I first started getting the new slave cylinder line made up. I used the old piece as a template, then dropped it down after the steering shaft.



I used the stock rubber line mount and mounted it to the frame rail.



Installed up top



I need to get a fitting to screw into the rubber line. Anyone know what size it is? After I have this I can flare the end and finish install.



Next it was the radiator install. I used the stock tacoma hose up top, but since I didn't have the lower hose I ordered this piece. Its suppose to be a stock replacement, but the same company makes an upper replacement and it was close which is why I used the stock tacoma hose on the top.



You can see it clears the alternator just fine.



Radiator Clearance is more then enough. I used the stock 3rz fan.



Next was the throttle cable. This is either from a 22re or a 3slow. I can't remember what I pulled it out of sorry guys. It does require new mounting holes on the firewall, but other then the p clamp on the firewall, it was a direct fit.



Just another shot of the high pressure fuel line and return line.



Any another engine bay shot.



I mounted the duals up on the skys crossmember. Did my first cut on the tunnel.



I'll need to cut the tunnel alot more but decided to call it a night.

Tankard

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #370 on: May 21, 2012, 07:08:52 AM »
Hows the wiring coming along? Are you using the Haynes manual for the wiring schematics?
"Knowledge without experience is just information." -Mark Twain

rcbro [OP]

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1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #371 on: May 21, 2012, 10:22:55 AM »
Hows the wiring coming along? Are you using the Haynes manual for the wiring schematics?

I assume you mean for the truck itself wiring? I haven't used any of my books. The truck is extremely basic and I just marked the wires I needed as I pulled the instrument out. The ignition switch wires are all labeled so it was pretty much strip and label.

THK Matt

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #372 on: May 21, 2012, 10:37:59 AM »
Looks like a 3.0 Throttle Cable to me  :beerchug:
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

83 Crawler

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #373 on: May 21, 2012, 01:04:29 PM »
thanks for all the detailed pics

rcbro [OP]

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Re: 1980 build *3RZ is in, mods continue*
« Reply #374 on: May 21, 2012, 05:24:48 PM »
Looks like a 3.0 Throttle Cable to me  :beerchug:


Thank you, I'm bet thats it.

thanks for all the detailed pics

No problem.


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Why did you go with a 3.0 TC, rather then the stock one your truck came with?
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

rcbro [OP]

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Why did you go with a 3.0 TC, rather then the stock one your truck came with?

I needed more length, and my stock one was 32 years old and heavily worn out. The 3.0 cable set me back $3

83 Crawler

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progress?

rcbro [OP]

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1980 build *3RZ in, Electrical Diagrams added*
« Reply #378 on: May 23, 2012, 09:32:50 PM »
Not this week. :(

toyotanner

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plus i dont think the 20r-22r throttle cable is long enough to reach the linkage... you would need 22re or 3.0 or a longer one in general

rcbro [OP]

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+Was able to work on the truck on and off today. Started with the cosmetics. Painted some front end items. Not sure if I'll use the grill, but at least it looks cool :flipoff2:



Next was the dual installation. I ended up not going full flat belly. The amount of work needed to do it was not justifiable at this time so the 3-4" higher it is now should be enough. I never rubbed on it before.



Just hangs down a smidge now.



When I got back in the shop it was time to bust out my nifty tube light :smokin: This thing works great in the cab, under the truck and around the hood. Being adjustable I can mount it nearly everywhere.



Really lights up the inside of the truck and hands free.



The factory wiring drives me nuckin futs. In and out of each other, huge excess loops and scary splicing. My OCD makes me want to re-do it all but It lasted 30 years, so it'll be fine. I did remove all the un-needed items and pulled and looped the wires I needed.

Started with this.



After about 45 minutes, I had everything roughly in its place. I wanna get the truck running before I finalize and loom all the goods.



Got some :pokinit: to do tomorrow but hope to get the ECU mounted and all the truck wires connected.
« Last Edit: Jun 02, 2012, 10:41:21 PM by rcbro »

THK Matt

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that LOOKS so much better. I may do that too with mine. being as my firewall is pretty much exposed (dash is nearly fully removed.)
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

rcbro [OP]

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Once I know the truck runs and works I'm going to loom all the wires. It'll look very clean. I didn't get much done today. Time went by fast and I got to get ready for my work trip.

I took the winch apart. OMG was it dirty and packed full of everything but what should be in it lol. Got my ECU partially mounted and alittle further on the wiring.

rcbro [OP]

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Got home and arrived to a bunch of goodies. Rock Lights, TG Battery Box, new lenses and some seals.. Nice! :D:grinpimp:

I spent alot of time looking for a semi cheap rock light. I had 3 requirements. I wanted something bright, low amp draw, easy to mount, relatively small and if possible able to alternate light levels.

Because I work with emergency vehicles I've had the luxury to see some very high end kits. The issue is always price or light output. The ones that worked were larger then I wanted and extremely expensive. The name brand kits that were small, just didn't produce enough light to make the purchase worth the efforts of installing.

Next I hunted ebay.. Lots of options, but left to many questions un-answered. Doing some google searching I cam across XKGLOW.COM I have no ties with this company, never heard of the company, but I liked what I saw. Sample pictures looked relatively bright, 5 amp draw for a 18 pod kit, extremely easy to mount, small and pattern changing.

So I took the plunge and ordered up the 18 pod rock light kit. I also picked up 8 more green pods for some bling factor :D

For those who don't know, I'm pretty big into the RC scene and have all the equipment for some nice photos. Because I could barely find information on this kit I decided to take some extra steps to show you guys what I got.

Here's what I got after opening the shipping box.



First impression was how small the LED's actually are! I know the power output of the LED's  themselves so it didn't have me to worried, but I was expecting something larger. I was relatively happy about this because I didn't want some godly looking lights mounted all over my rig. The smaller they are, the easier to hide.

The kit comes with a bunch of stuff. (18) 6 LED pods, controller, key fob and accessories for wiring.



Mounting lights can sometimes really be a pain, mounting 18 of them can be even worse. I wasn't stoked on drilling holes all over my rig, and with this kit you don't have to. Each light comes with a 90 degree bracket that you can bend to the angle needed.

The light and bracket adhere to the vehicle using 3M double sided tape. I know, your thinking cheesy right? In a rock crawler? Well for those who don't know, all those fancy moldings, fender flares and trim pieces on your new rigs are held on with this same stuff. Clean the area with some alcohol, heat slightly with a torch and stick them on. I don't think it'll be an issue.



Going off there website I truly thought the pods were bigger. I was thinking 2-3 inches wide. Here is a comparison shot next to a quarter. This pod is slightly shorter then the quarter and slightly wider.



Now comes the controller. This piece controls all the lights. Using your nifty key fob you can make your lights solid on, strobe, breath (increases and decreases brightness) and off. Being able to do this 40 feet away is even cooler.

The controller is also very small, you can fit it nearly anywhere.



Having installed several auto start and alarm systems I've seen alot of cheesy, cheap plastic key fobs. For once a kit with something nice. The Fob has a sleeve that moves up and down to cover the buttons and seems to be built with quality in mind.



I took the lights outside last night and lit a single pod with 11.1V and was truly impressed at the light output. 18 of these on a single rig will be plenty. The greens ones are just simply sweet!

I'll update you as I get them installed and ran. In the mean time I'll try to post some night shots.

rcbro [OP]

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Got some work done today. Hope to get back out there tonight.

I got the TG Battery box in. Box is pretty decent, but came greased like a fat kid playing basketball. Usually not a big deal, but the lazer or plaz left a rough edge so when wiping down it ripped the towel and left fuzzies all over :barf: :mr-t:

Got the fuzzies off lol and laid down a coat of paint then installed. I was originally going to tack it in place, but opted to bolt it in instead. (4) 1/4-20 bolts and she was in.





Went to the junk yard friday on my lunch break and picked up a new EVAP box. Mine was broke, but I was also missing a few important pieces. I remounted one of the sensors so I could fill my clutch master easier and ran the vent tube out into the fender.







Also got the ECU mounted in hopes of starting to wire tonight. The tab on the right I left long so I can mount a few relays to it. I think I'm going to run my HID relays there.



Just barely clears the heater plumbing, but should work good. Out of the way of the passenger and of view, yet easier to access.


rcbro [OP]

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1980 build *3RZ in, Electrical Diagrams added*
« Reply #385 on: Jun 10, 2012, 01:51:08 PM »
Got the ecu wires extended and ran up to the main harness. Just need to make the appropriate connections now. Getting there....


rcbro [OP]

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1980 build *3RZ in, Electrical Diagrams added*
« Reply #386 on: Jun 14, 2012, 03:47:33 PM »
Just finished building my panel.


rcbro [OP]

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1980 build *3RZ in, Electrical Diagrams added*
« Reply #387 on: Jun 14, 2012, 08:47:08 PM »
And I got It mounted, going to shift it out a hair, but u get the idea!


dropzone

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will the Evap box clear the hood? for some reason to me it looks like it might be a smidge too high..


probably just the angle :dunno:
81 Toyota Trekker 221:1
build thread: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=86346.0

1994 4Runner - Long Term Expedition type Build

rcbro [OP]

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1980 build *3RZ in, Electrical Diagrams added*
« Reply #389 on: Jun 14, 2012, 10:37:44 PM »
The far tab may not but the rest is below the fender line.

 
 
 
 
 

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