Topic: KDXSR5s Wyo DD Build: Starting To Come Together.............SLOWLY

[KDXSR5]

My dad and I picked this up for $150. Lincoln AC-225, $500 or so new. Now we just need to set a box at the end of the garage and run the wires from the panel.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

I am parting out a '94 Ford F-250. It looks like the rear tank on it will fit where my spare tire used to me. Can you say transfer tank? Double the fuel capacity baby! I think what I will do is just use the ford tank with stock fuel pump and level sender.

The sender I can wire up to a cheapo fuel gauge so I can watch how much fuel I have in it. The fuel pump I can wire up to a relay and put a switch in the bed, probably in my bed mounted battery box.

I can then vent the vent line on the Ford pump to atmosphere. Then take the pressure line and T it into the Toyota's vent line with a ball valve.

When the Toyota tank gets low, I park, open up the ball valve, and throw the switch for the Ford fuel tank. This will in turn fill the Toyota tank. One the Toyota tank is full, I turn off the switch and flip the ball valve. Done.

Only problems I have thought of so far is the filler neck is on the driver side, and filling the Toy tank will be guesswork as to when to stop unless I just unscrew the fuel cap and stop it when the fuel starts to come out.

Another way of running it would be to run the Ford pressure line into a fitting that screws into the drain bolt on the Toyota tank. I would still use a ball valve, but this way I don't have to mess with the toy vent line. The only drawback is if I ever whack the Toyota fuel tank on anything it will probably break off the Ford fuel inlet.

What do you guys think?

[Dr.Maxwe001]

use a automatic shut off nozzle at the gas station and use the stock setup and plumb a line into the ford tank with a small transfer pump  that feeds fuel into the vent line of the toyota fill coller  and then when the toyota tank gets low via the stock gauge you flip a switch that turns the pump on and feeds fuel  into the toyota tank from the ford tank thats the way we did it  and we have roughly 80 gal of fuel  that is kept  in reserve.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

One of my major problems is the gas gauge on my truck does not function.

So you are saying take the Ford setup and plum pressure line into the Toyota vent line. Then, put a switch in cab and flip when it gets low? I thought about doing that setup, but after reading about OOPS' setup and doing some reading and PMing on pirate, that setup only has about a 50/50 chance of working right. If it is not setup just right, the toy tank will overflow when the pump is off and will flood the charcoal canister and do bad things. Solution is a ball valve, and at that point I might as well make it all set up in a nifty box in the bed next to my battery box. Ball valve, Ford fuel gauge, switch w/ relay. I think I am going to run the fuel filler neck for the Ford tank to the bed as well.

Ball Valve:

[Dr.Maxwe001]

here is a better idea look at a keg see how it has that ball on top that keeps it 1 presurized and 2 keeps the "beer" inside. might want to look that route and it hold ALOT of the liquid

[COToy91]

oops on pirate plumbed in a ford tank as an axillary. He used a transfer pump into the toy tank and would just refill his toy tank from it

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

oops on pirate plumbed in a ford tank as an axillary. He used a transfer pump into the toy tank and would just refill his toy tank from it

Hmm... I thought his was just a holding tank, not an old gas tank. I got the idea to use the Ford tank from pirate a couple years ago, and after looking at some old posts by OOPS I decided on using the Ford tank I have as a transfer tank, but use the ford fuel pump so it doesn't take as long to transfer.

I think I am going to go with the drain bolt fitting and see how it works out. I got quoted a price of $20 and the ball valve I want to use I am getting for free from my dad. he sells pipe, valve, and fittings for industrial applications. I have some angle iron laying around that I can build the tank mount out of and I have some wire and switches laying around. So...

Fitting: ~$20
Tubing: ~$20
Relay: ~$25

I should have this transfer tank setup for under $100 and basically double my driving range. I hate filling up every 4 or 5 days.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Got back from a trip a couple days ago. Stopped in Grand Junction to hang with Josh (GJToyoytabug) for a bit, and he threw some heavy crap into the back of the Jeep. Turns out they are new front springs!!!! The even have orbit eyes at the hanger end! If I remember right, they are 4 inch lift springs with the center pin moved forward an inch. They are too tall for my truck right now, but I am thinking up some ideas for the rear and stuff. I thank Josh greatly for this gift, he is awesome!

Pic:

[SloCrawler]

Nice, I hear  those orbits are the best way to go and super pricy..

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Nice, I hear  those orbits are the best way to go and super pricy..

Yeah, I am very VERY fortunate to have a good friend who happens to work at Alcan. He hooks me up with good stuff, and I hook him up with used parts I have laying around. Works out nicely.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Well guys, I am now having serious debates on what I should do. I need to get the new high steer on for safety sake. I also want to get these new springs on. Those are both good and all, but there is a problem. I will have to get a new driveshaft made to work with the moved axle and the long travel springs. No, I will not use some hokey ass square shaft because I have to use 4WD almost full time in winter. SO....

I am thinking about picking up a doubler from Marlin. They are $350-$400 and I already have a could spare tranfercases sitting in storage. Downside is I will then also need a new rear shaft, although I might be able to put some stuff together from shafts I have laying around that will work with the doubler.

Another issue I have come to realize is my flat pitman arm may no longer be necessary with these kick ass new springs. I will have to see once I actually get everything mocked up on the truck.

I think I know what I am going to do with the rear for now. The setup I have now works great for what my truck is used for. I plan on linking the rear in the future, so I don't want to sink a bunch of money into the rear suspension right now. So I think I will either build drop hangers for the springs or just run some 2"-4" blocks depending on how high my front sits with these AWESOME NEW SPRINGS!!!!!

We will see what happens. I have no time to do anything right now between my amazing girlfriend, school, and work. I work 20 hours a week and I am doing 22 credit hours at the college. My ass is getting kicked. Hopefully I will have the garage ready come summer so I can get this thing done when I am not out on the oil rigs.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

If the parts I am trying to sell go through, I will be picking up either an MC07 or an MC07-R10. I am leaning towards the rotated adapter to get a flatter belly and protect the drivetrain a little better. It is only a $50 difference from a non rotated adapter. Opinions?

[Mavericks]

I think a flat belly would be cool, it all depends if you want to do a little fabricating or not. When I bought mine, my thoughts were if I ever do go flat belly I can still use the non rotated adapter and it wouldn't be that much of a difference. So I went with the non rotated adapter and used trail gears cross member, so far I like it.

[46&2]

Well guys, I am now having serious debates on what I should do. I need to get the new high steer on for safety sake. I also want to get these new springs on. Those are both good and all, but there is a problem. I will have to get a new driveshaft made to work with the moved axle and the long travel springs. No, I will not use some hokey ass square shaft because I have to use 4WD almost full time in winter. SO....

I am thinking about picking up a doubler from Marlin. They are $350-$400 and I already have a could spare tranfercases sitting in storage. Downside is I will then also need a new rear shaft, although I might be able to put some stuff together from shafts I have laying around that will work with the doubler.

Another issue I have come to realize is my flat pitman arm may no longer be necessary with these kick ass new springs. I will have to see once I actually get everything mocked up on the truck.

I think I know what I am going to do with the rear for now. The setup I have now works great for what my truck is used for. I plan on linking the rear in the future, so I don't want to sink a bunch of money into the rear suspension right now. So I think I will either build drop hangers for the springs or just run some 2"-4" blocks depending on how high my front sits with these AWESOME NEW SPRINGS!!!!!

We will see what happens. I have no time to do anything right now between my amazing girlfriend, school, and work. I work 20 hours a week and I am doing 22 credit hours at the college. My ass is getting kicked. Hopefully I will have the garage ready come summer so I can get this thing done when I am not out on the oil rigs.

Chevys or F150s will net you a couple inches in the rear and are practically free from junkyards. Otherwise the blocks are probably the best option temporarily, its a bit of work to do the drop spring hangers and then down the road you are somewhat stuck with them unless you hack them off again.

They let you take that many units? Crazy, I am limited to 18 units.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Chevys or F150s will net you a couple inches in the rear and are practically free from junkyards. Otherwise the blocks are probably the best option temporarily, its a bit of work to do the drop spring hangers and then down the road you are somewhat stuck with them unless you hack them off again.

They let you take that many units? Crazy, I am limited to 18 units.

Yo Nick!

Yeah, I think a 2 inch block or so will work fine for now. I really don't want to burn on new hangers and stuff just to have to cut them back off again.

I have to get special permission to take more than 19 credit hours. I just want to get school done and over with so I have really been busting my ass.

What do you think as far as adapters go? Rotate or no rotate? The rotated is only fifty bucks more.

[46&2]

Yo Nick!

Yeah, I think a 2 inch block or so will work fine for now. I really don't want to burn on new hangers and stuff just to have to cut them back off again.

I have to get special permission to take more than 19 credit hours. I just want to get school done and over with so I have really been busting my ass.

What do you think as far as adapters go? Rotate or no rotate? The rotated is only fifty bucks more.

I'm not sure, I haven't really seen a comparison of rotated vs non rotated in terms of how much it really gains, but for 50 bucks extra why not? I probably would have sprung for the rotated had they had it when I got my adapter.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

I'm not sure, I haven't really seen a comparison of rotated vs non rotated in terms of how much it really gains, but for 50 bucks extra why not? I probably would have sprung for the rotated had they had it when I got my adapter.

From my research, it only gains a bit over an inch. That is an inch closer to flatbelly and an inch extra clearance under my truck though! From what I have been told, it makes the lowest point my gas tank instead of the front t-case output.

[46&2]

From my research, it only gains a bit over an inch. That is an inch closer to flatbelly and an inch extra clearance under my truck though! From what I have been told, it makes the lowest point my gas tank instead of the front t-case output.

I say go for it then. Your little Yota is coming along, new springs, high steer, duals! You are gonna be stoked when you try the duals for the first time.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

I say go for it then. Your little Yota is coming along, new springs, high steer, duals! You are gonna be stoked when you try the duals for the first time.

I sure hope so! I can't even snow wheel with my truck as is. The 33s killed my power and even first gear low range isn't low enough to snow wheel anything deeper than about 8 inches or so. It is so lame! I want to do diff gears, but that plus the traction aids comes in over $1000 and I will only have about $400 after selling this stuff.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

I ordered a Marlin MC07-R10 last night! About $315 to my door down from $415 to my door before this week's sale! Hopefully I get it later this week so i can build my crawl box.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

MC07XD-R10

[46&2]

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

WEEEEEEEEE First wheel of the summer season. I hope to be tearing into it soon though.

[Peterbuilt84]

Looks fun, can't wait to see you start on the upgrades 

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

And it begins...

[bigarms23]

are you going tube bed or whats the plans

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

are you going tube bed or whats the plans

Plan is to install all of the things I have posted in the last page or two, plus a few tricks I have not yet posted.

I am not sure whether I am going to put the bed back on or not. It is a rusty POS, but it serves its purpose. I really want to build a custom bed for it though. I guess you could say I am undecided, haha.

Plans:

- Install Ford transfer tank
- Weld in front frame brace
- Weld on new front hanger
- Install new Orbit Eye springs in front
- Install Highsteer
- Install clocked transfercase adaptor
- Fix some rust on the cab (I really should just put a newer cab on this, but I am quite partial to the 2nd gens)
- Install new driveshafts
- Fix some wiring issues
- Install 1" body lift

So far I am undecided on what I am going to do in the rear. I want to 4-link the rear, but that requires more parts than I have money for. I really don't want to put the bed back on, but I don't want to build a flatbed twice, which is what will happen since I can't 4-link it yet, plus I don't have a bender yet.

I may end up with a flatbed on there, who knows, but I am keeping my ghetto rear suspension until I have the funds to do it how I want to.

[COToy91]

you want my flat bed?

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

you want my flat bed?

How much do you want for it? If I remember correctly, you were talking about parting your truck out or selling it at one point, but I don't know how far you got into doing that. How are you liking those Hunsaker seats? I am still contemplating buying a set for my truck, as my stock seats are beyond shot.

[1990GT50]

Dont go flatbed. If you're ditching the bed then you should build your own tube bed and cut the bed sides out and throw them on.