Author Topic: KDXSR5s Wyo DD Build: Starting To Come Together.............SLOWLY (Read 136617 times)

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #330 on:** Feb 22, 2009, 09:17:50 AM »

Quote from: redpim1 on Feb 22, 2009, 02:56:46 AM

Head gaskets are the Achilles’ heel of the rebuilt 20r-22RE/RET in my experence but please look into it throughly. I have run in to hair line cracks in the head and cylinder walls that only showed up with a dye/magnaflux test. Dont let it get you down Tod you eill get her going good again.

Nice to see you around Red

I would hope I don't have any cracks in the head considering its a brand new head from EB, and when I got the machine work done on my block I did have them magnaflux it and it was ok. Its just all very frustrating.

Quote from: unclejpl4x4 on Feb 22, 2009, 05:31:32 AM

it sucks you got no back up ride one day you can have that tore down and back togeather granted if it was just a head gasket.

This is true as long as I don't run into any problems and if I had a shop to work in. Changing a head gasket outside in the snow would be no fun.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #331 on:** Mar 10, 2009, 10:52:50 PM »

Broke the ball off of the j-arm tonight. Walked for an hour and a half from BFE in 10 degree weather. Hope to find a new one tomorrow and go back to BFE and install.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #332 on:** Mar 11, 2009, 10:04:41 PM »

ok got a spare arm rigged up well enough to get the truck home. Will fix correctly next week when I have access to a real shop and not below freezing outside crap

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #333 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 03:30:13 PM »

drug it to a flat/snow blown away location. temp about 5 degrees. This sure was fun

46&2 · « **Reply #334 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 07:05:42 PM »

At least you got it home in one piece, thats what matters. Coming back to a stripped or burnt down vehicle sucks.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #335 on:** Mar 25, 2009, 07:32:42 PM »

Quote from: fortysixandtwo on Mar 23, 2009, 07:05:42 PM

At least you got it home in one piece, thats what matters. Coming back to a stripped or burnt down vehicle sucks.

Troof

As she sits now and pics of the busted j-arm. The ball broke free of the welds and pulled right out. Have had a couple snow days so the truck has been sitting as is since last week.

46&2 · « **Reply #336 on:** Mar 25, 2009, 08:07:25 PM »

Nice work on the Jarm

Duffil · « **Reply #337 on:** Mar 25, 2009, 10:29:08 PM »

Quote from: fortysixandtwo on Mar 25, 2009, 08:07:25 PM

Nice work on the Jarm

stumps the hell outta me.

I've been through Deer Valley, Slickrock, Niagara Rim, and the Con plus like 3 years of DD on top of that and never an issue. A new one is heading his way either late this week or early next week.

46&2 · « **Reply #338 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 06:49:21 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Mar 25, 2009, 10:29:08 PM

stumps the hell outta me. I've been through Deer Valley, Slickrock, Niagara Rim, and the Con plus like 3 years of DD on top of that and never an issue. A new one is heading his way either late this week or early next week.

Im not talking

on your jarm I knew you'd put yours through some

so he must have been doing a good job hammering down

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #339 on:** Mar 28, 2009, 10:56:47 PM »

Well I got a letter in the mail from the city. Said something to the effect of I have 10 days (from 3/26) to clean up my house (have a frame in the driveway and some misc. crap here and there) and I am being taken to court for possible fines. This is just wonderful

Have to put off fixing my truck even more now until i get this done. I hate living in the city. I got the frame loaded onto my trailer but since everything is still covered in snow this is all a huge pain in the ass.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #340 on:** Apr 04, 2009, 02:13:57 PM »

Its running again

http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee218/KDXSR5/?action=view&current=0404091342.flv

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #341 on:** Jun 20, 2009, 07:16:34 PM »

Went wheeling today and took a couple pics to prove it still gets used. I made some quick release hinges that actually work a month or so ago so I have been using those as well. I guess that is all.

NorCalToy · « **Reply #342 on:** Jun 20, 2009, 10:37:35 PM »

whats your design for the quick relaese hinges? i made some but i think tehy kinda dont work. i havent installed them yet though.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #343 on:** Jun 22, 2009, 04:26:39 PM »

Ok... Quick release hinges.

Step #1: Mark where hinge lines up on door side (sharpie works) and take off doors by removing bolts. (no pic)

Step #2: Remove fenders or remove enough bolts to get fenders out of the way. (no pic)

Step #3: Mark were hinge lines up on body (again sharpie works). (no pic)

Step #4: Remove hinges from body. Mark both body and door side of hinges with side (driver or passenger), position (top or bottom), and direction (arrow pointing up works) as you remove them. This keeps you from getting mixed up. You now have this (x4):

Step #5: Cut pin in half (hack saw works) and remove however necessary. DO NOT MESS UP THE BRASS BUSHING!!!!!

Step#6: Go to store and find some pins that fit snugly in the hinge. I found some coupler pins that worked (left in pic). Buy 4 of them. Remove the lock wire (right in pic):

Step#7: Flatten one side of all 4 pins (a large file and a vise work). This allows the pins to clear the mounting bolts on the door:

Step #8: Assemble a hinge with a pin. Mark a spot to file a grove in so a clip can be installed towards the end of the pin. Make a grove (ON 2 PINS) that will allow the clip to be installed. Pics will help this make sense:

With clip installed:

Step #9: Put door side of all 4 hinges on the doors in the spot were you marked so they stay aligned. (no pic)

Step #10: assemble all 4 hinges. Bottom hinges have the pin drop in from the top. Top hinges have the pin slide in from the bottom and are clipped at the top. This will leave the hinges assembled and hanging off of the doors. (no pic)

Step #11: Reinstall doors by bolting hinges to the body. Align hinges with the outlines you drew earlier. (no pic)

Step# 12: Put fenders back on. (no pic)

Step #13: do some final alignment of necessary. (no pic)

Step #14: ALL DONE!!! Here are completed pics from the passenger side on my truck:

Top:

Bottom:

So there you go. Some quick release hinges. The pins do require replacing every six months to a year because they get wear groves in them. (I have had one set on the truck for a year or so). Removal and install take about 30 seconds per door once you get used to it. I made a couple vids to show that.

Removal:

http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee218/KDXSR5/Quick%20Release%20Hinges/?action=view&current=0622091536.flv

Install:

http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee218/KDXSR5/Quick%20Release%20Hinges/?action=view&current=0622091543.flv

Any questions just ask.

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #344 on:** Jun 22, 2009, 04:29:07 PM »

very nice thx for the vids

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #345 on:** Jun 22, 2009, 04:56:48 PM »

Quote from: ÜncleĴ on Jun 22, 2009, 04:29:07 PM

very nice thx for the vids

Yup! I figured people would appreciate that.

Also, I put two 2 inch wide view mirrors on the door jam so I can still see (kind of) when the doors are off plus it keeps me legal. They can stay on when the doors are installed. Passenger side went under the door prop, drivers side went over the door prop.

NorCalToy · « **Reply #346 on:** Jun 22, 2009, 10:17:29 PM »

cool, thanks todd. i made mine the exact same way, except to cut costs a little bit i bought a longer 5/16" bolt and cut the threads off and tehn drilled a hole in it to use the exact same pics and then shaved the head to fit. one question? how loose is the door when install, can you wiggle it up and down a lot? also how tightly fitted is the realease pin to teh hinge?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #347 on:** Jun 22, 2009, 10:26:58 PM »

Quote from: NorCalToy on Jun 22, 2009, 10:17:29 PM

cool, thanks todd. i made mine the exact same way, except to cut costs a little bit i bought a longer 5/16" bolt and cut the threads off and tehn drilled a hole in it to use the exact same pics and then shaved the head to fit. one question? how loose is the door when install, can you wiggle it up and down a lot? also how tightly fitted is the realease pin to teh hinge?

The doors fit tight. No movement when wiggled. If I detect movement I replace the pins. The only other thing that would cause movement is if the brass bushings are shot.

I don't quite understand when you ask "how tightly fitted is the realease pin to teh hinge?" Do you mean how tight does the pin fit in there? Its a pretty snug fit, and the pins do require lubrication to work properly. I keep a can of white lithium grease handy and I spray the pins before every install. If the fit gets too sloppy, again, I replace the pin. If that is not the answer you were looking for please rephrase the question.

On a side note, eventually the brass bushings will wear out. I have found some similar "hat style" (that is what I call them) bushings at a few different places that I am sure can be made to work. That way, I will have totally rebuildable removable door hinges. I am also thinking about super glueing the brass bushings in place to ensure I do not loose them when the doors are off. Those bushings play a huge role in how well these work.

Another side note, 3rd gen and 2nd gen hinges are slightly different. Different enough that I could not use the 3rd gen hinges on my 2nd gen without messing with the holes in the hinges. Just an FYI.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #348 on:** Sep 20, 2009, 08:10:38 PM »

Got bored today

46&2 · « **Reply #349 on:** Sep 20, 2009, 10:54:46 PM »

Nice, keeping her limber

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #350 on:** Sep 26, 2009, 04:02:26 PM »

I got a new DD/toy hauler, so i am unsure what I will end up doing with this truck now. So many ways to go with it

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #351 on:** Sep 26, 2009, 06:46:26 PM »

hit a pole backing out of a shop.

Needs a fender and I am talking to an old friend about making me a bumper for it

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #352 on:** Sep 27, 2009, 10:07:55 PM »

So... I am going to put one of these on the GMC

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #353 on:** Dec 15, 2009, 05:22:28 PM »

Ok, so it has been a while. Since last update, while wheeling, I have gotten: a few flats, separated belt in one tire, lower radiator hose failure, drag link internals fried, broke a leaf spring tie bolt, and the clutch is now slipping.

Below: Fixing steering issues/tie bolt; the leaf pack w/ broken bolt (again); the two tie bolts; the lifesaver when it is below zero!

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #354 on:** Dec 15, 2009, 05:24:30 PM »

So I sandblasted and powdercoated my old rims for use with 33s-35s, because I need new tires. It is called "black chrome." I think I am going to go with some goodyear duratrac tires for DD use for now. We will see.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #355 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 11:03:06 PM »

Stole the wheels/tires from the GMC to make a 600 mi round trip here in a few days (BFGs are SHOT). The GMC wheels look goofy as all hell on the toy.

I ordered 5 Goodyear Duratrac tires, 33x12.50r15 variety. Paid about $780 shipped for those. Will update when those are mounted/installed. I am going to be having to do some body mods to make them clear. I may end up throwing on a 4crawler 1 inch body lift.

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #356 on:** Dec 26, 2009, 07:54:05 AM »

hay thos front rims look nice

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #357 on:** Jan 06, 2010, 01:18:30 PM »

So I got the 33x12.50r15 Duratracs mounted and installed. They fit pretty well, I need to do some work on the firewall area. They work great in the snow! I have not had to use four wheel drive in town since I have installed them. That has not been the case with any other tire I have had on this truck. So far I really like these tires.

1: deflated 33 inch tire next to pumped up 30 inch tire

2 mounted

3. front

4. rear

5. driver side

6. front view (yes my spring is bent)