Topic: KDXSR5s Wyo DD Build: Starting To Come Together.............SLOWLY

[KDXSR5]

Read it: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=44595.0

[93tonkatoy]

A handfull of vacuum caps would be a good place to start. crank the engine, remove and cap a vaccum line, and hit the brake. Any change? go on to the next vac. line and repeat. you can do the same with the brake booster, just, DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE IT!!!

Be sure to check the egr system, too, including the compression joint between the egr and intake manifold. Also, I just had to replace the rubber boot from the airpipe to the throttle body, as mine had split, and was allowing unmetered air into the engine (this also causes the engine to do funny things).

[jimbo74]

so whats up with the 90? and is the title now being no mroe work on the truck including the 90 or any truck at all?

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

so whats up with the 90? and is the title now being no mroe work on the truck including the 90 or any truck at all?

90 is being parted out, if you need something from it, PM me and I can probably get it for you.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

 I just found out my radiator is leaking pretty bad. there goes like $300

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Well, I looked at the NAPA radiator today, and it is a no go. It is aluminum/plastic not copper/brass. Back to searching.

Also, I got my new rear coils from crawlerdan so I will be putting those in at some point in time. They are from a ford aerostar and are progressive.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

I am finally done with the engine, so now i just need to get the garage cleaned out and I can start the long process of pulling out 88 engine, cleaning everything, putting stuff on rebuilt 85 engine, possibly rewrapping all electrical, I know I have to rewrap some of it. It is going to take me at least 2 weeks to get the prep all done to my standards before I even try to put then engine in. Yes, I know, I am ANAL.

[NorCalToy]

damn, you take too long. what are you gonna do with the 88 engine now?

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

rebuild it and wait to get another yota to drop it in.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Pic update time.

Coils from crawlerdan:




90 brake booster, painted and ready to go in:




Engine before:




Engine after:

[79coyotefrg]

I'm diggin the color     ok,  now  whats the specs??

[46&2]

Damn, thats a bad ass paint job on your engine there. Looks sweet  

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Damn, thats a bad ass paint job on your engine there. Looks sweet  

I'm diggin the color     ok,  now  whats the specs??

Thanks!

85 22re

bored .030
EB .030 over piston kit
EB piston bushings
balanced crank
reconditioned rods
mains line honed
block decked
EB Headbolts
LCE dual row conversion
LCE adjustable cam gear
EB street/RV head (new casting, stronger, larger valvues, bigger ports)
Japan Engines rockers and adjusters
LCE .440 lift EFI PRO cam
EB rebuild kit
Marlin resurfaced flywheel
Marlin 1600 lb clutch
LCE header (already on the truck)

I am pretty sure I am forgetting some stuff

got the rest of my engine parts!! I ordered everything last Friday afternoon, LCE came Tuesday; EB came Thursday; and Japan Engines (JE) came today. Pic!

OK, from left to right: JE rockers and adjusters; LCE cam, adjustable cam gear (red deal) and all the stuff for dual row conversion (cover, oil pump, water pump, gaskets/seals, timing chain, guides, bolt kit, cam gear, crank gear); EB gasket set, head bolts, piston rings, freeze plugs, piston bushings, pistons, and last but definitely not least: EB street/RV head. I am very impressed with this head upon first glance. Its a heavier casting (than stock), and has more material in key areas. larger ports, larger valves, its very nice, and very

[79coyotefrg]

that things gonna run like a scalded dog

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

New Radiator:

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

So, I get to drive this truck for a while

Specs:
91 ford f-150
over 200,000 miles
302
rebuilt E4OD
blown transfer case
31x10.50 tires
Rust
Ugly as sin
Thats about it

[46&2]

I spy a redneck battle truck

[I.D.G.A.F]

that motor is awesome like said before I want to hear it run (Raped Ape), what did you use to clean up all the aluminum on the motor.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

that motor is awesome like said before I want to hear it run (Raped Ape), what did you use to clean up all the aluminum on the motor.

Thanks. I will try to get it on video when I first fire it up, but no promises. I used a beadblaster using glass beads on all of the original aluminum. A lot of the stuff is new aluminum. I then painted the aluminum either black or aluminum or a combination of the two. There is no unpainted part on this engine. A LOT of time is in this engine. a lot. like more than anyone else I know, a lot.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

After many weeks, many injuries, lots of bug bites, lots of arguing, lots of garbage hauling, and lots of just crappy dusty work the garage is clean and...































































ITS IN THE FRIGGEN GARAGE




CRAPPY PICS

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Ok, my dad and I finished the garage about half an hour after midnight. I started the process of pulling the engine around 1:00. I finished and cleaned up by 4:30. Sooooooooooooooo doing some quick math, it took me about 3.5 hours to mark and pull the engine. Again, I managed to pull it all by myself. I pulled the plugs off of the ECU and brought then through the firewall instead of disconnecting all of the wires from the individual sensors and such. This saved me about 3 hours, haha. I also just tied the power steering pump off to the side. This makes the whole process much easier because I do not have to deal with messy ATF and trying to get my steering working correctly again once I put the new engine in. Ok, pics.




Jesse was "helping" me throughout the whole process:



Here she is checking out my sweet ride:



No engine:



Old engine:








Yes I pull the whole front of the truck apart. This makes it easier for me because I do not have to worry about screwing up the paint or the sheetmetal. I have a way of doing engine swaps and that is just part of the way I do them.

[THK Matt]

i like your way of pulling the engine.... im sure its muc easier to swap plugs and connectors with it out of the truck.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

i like your way of pulling the engine.... im sure its muc easier to swap plugs and connectors with it out of the truck.

It was so much easier and about 1000x faster.



I will also add that my two top transmission bolts weren't too hard to do. I took the wrench, set it up on each bolt, then took my hilift handle and placed it on one of the open end prongs. I then hit it with a hammer to knock it loose which allowed me to get them out by hand. This was a much better way of doing it than my normal 6 feet of extensions I usually use to get to them from the bottom. The hardest part of the whole swap was getting the friggen engine mount bolts loose. I don't remember me tightening them that tight when I put that engine in. In the end, this swap went a lot better then any of my previous swaps, at least so far.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Ok, here is how I broke the transmission bolts loose. And yes I know I took the picture going the wrong way, but you get the idea. Once I broke them loose using this method, I got my hands down there and unthreaded the bolt. I used the same method to break the engine mount bolts loose.

[Toymin8r]

and easier way to do that is to unbolt the cross member from the frame.  lower the tanny down with a floor jack.  you shoud be able to get at those bolts with a couple of really long entension.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

and easier way to do that is to unbolt the cross member from the frame.  lower the tanny down with a floor jack.  you shoud be able to get at those bolts with a couple of really long entension.

I have used that method all of the times before, and I found this MUCH easier. But maybe thats just me. Thanks for the tip though!

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Ok. I did a lot of electrical stuff, but I have no pics of it on account of its not exciting. I finished fixing my brakes as well. I also finished my front bumper install (finally). Pics:


Booster and 1 inch master:




As you can see, the hole does not line up on this tab on my bumper. It is the same on both sides. I used a soapstone metal marking device to draw where I needed to cut out:






I cut it out using a drill bit and a lot of time. It took FOREVER to get both sides done :




A bolt now fits:





What a PITA.

[Duffil]

hey todd instead of rebuilding your trailer to fit your truck, why not buy or build a drop hitch.  It'd be a hell of a lot cheaper, I think.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Well, the trailer needs to be taller anyways (IMO) plus it needs rebuilt/painted and have new electrical ran. I have everything I need to make it a few inches taller and run some 235/75r15. I will be using my 85 rear axle on it. But that is a whole different thread entirely.


I am going to relocate my battery to my bed and put my airbox where the battery goes. What should I do about grounds? should I just run one to the frame, one to the engine, and one to the cab? or???

[GJToyotabug]

most people just run one to the frame but I think that your battery could fit where the air box is now.