Topic: KDXSR5s Wyo DD Build: Starting To Come Together.............SLOWLY

[KDXSR5]

Ok, I have been on the site for a while now, and I decided I might as well throw some stuff out there about my rig and what I am doing to it. This is my first Toyota. It is going to be a trail runner type of rig/DD. I bought it along with a rolled 88 for $1500. Parts were swapped, parts were kept, and the 88 is now gone. The 85 is currently running the 88 22re and the 88 rear axle along with a powder coated Marlin rear bumper and the 88 wheels with some 30 inch mud tires. I don't have or make a lot of money, but I love to buy higher dollar stuff. This will make this a very slow build. Pics.

A week or so ago.








First mod:



I hope you like pictures, because I gave you a lot. More to come, stay tuned.

[red]

looks like a good starting point

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Ok, I got the header installed today! I just need to extend the O2 sensor wire and bolt on the test pipe, and I will be able to drive it again. No muffler yet, just exits at the end of the test pipe. I might weld some stuff together so the exhaust will go through my ghetto exhaust, so it will be some what muffled. I just want it long enough and with enough back pressure to not burn up the exhuast valves in the engine. Tomorrow I will finish it. It is snowing now also! 2 inches in 1 hours. It is really going. Well, I am off to church, pics will come tomorrow.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Ok, I installed the front bumper (kind of) and my header. Pics!

[79-83earlyota]

I'm sure you might have mentioned in one of the posts? but where did you get that header, what brand is it?  I need a header for my truck, mine is getting OLD and worn out.  Where do you wheel in WY?  I use to live in Cheyenne and could never find anywhere to go.  There is practically no trail information for that state!!!!

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

It is an LCE header. It was expensive, like $400. Here is a link.
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=825F8554-5526-4B98-ACEE-AFD57B01689E

I live up in Casper, and we have the Poison Spider ORV park, it is like 200 acres of fun stuff. I also go out to Deer Creek off of Hat Six. Both of those places also have a lot of atv and dirtbike activity, especially Poison Spyder. I used to dirtbike out there (on my kdx) until I siezed a bearing while racing. I still need to rebuild my engine and transmission, but I am out of money. Up on the mountain has some fun stuff too. I also go out to ranches that friends own, during the summer. There is a lot of stuff if you know where to look. Not much rocks though. If living in WY I would suggest getting a forest service map, a ORV map, and a BLM map. They should give a basic understanding of some stuff out there. I would also advise to never go on somebody's land without asking, because more often than not, you will get shot at. It really pisses some people off when they find tresspassers, and I would be super pissed too if I found someone on my land without permition. As for Cheyenne, I know of nothing down there, so good luck.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Well, I have started to wire up some fog lights as reverse lights that come on when I put it in reverse. I bought some cheap lights at walmart and bought a relay at autozone, and combined them. It will get done this weekend hopefully. Pics will come then. I also tried to kill the door buzzer, but I gave up after searching for the plug for 5 minutes. Small things, but important things.

[randito]

Those still stock springs?  Looks like descent flex if the are.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Yup, they are stock. The front ones are destroyed and have a very bad negative arch, and I would not be surprised if one of the leaves snaps some day. The rear ones are wearing out as well, the rear leafs are maybe 2 inches off of the bumpstops, and the front ones are like an inch away, but they do have a lot of down travel, especially the rear. Thanks for the compliment! I hope to upgrade to some OME springs, because on this truck they would provide probably a 3 inch lift at least. Plus they should do better at taking what I throw at them. If I do go with OME springs, I will probably try to fit some 33s or 35s on, but if I go with the 35s I will have to regear.

I almost got done installing my custom fog light reverse lights, I just need to extend two wires and mount the lights, and I am done! The relay setup that I made works real well, and I am very impressed with the results for only $30. Ok, enough of my mindless rambling, I will update when something gets started or completed.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Ok, I got done installing the new reverse lighting last night, here are pics:

Here is the wiring harness I pre-made to make install go a little easier.




Wiring harness installed, blue is the lights.








Miscellaneous wiring, I ran all the wire through here.




Here is the relay I added into the wiring, It was mounted with a bracket, but my jack@$$ friend kicked it and broke it off, so it was put on with tape and a ziptie.




Lights ziptied in place, I will use worm gear hose clamps later.






Lights on, second pic is from standing on top of a forklift (camera flash makes the lights look not as bright as they are).








Fog lights from walmart: $15
40 amp relay from autozone: $10
Loom stuff and misc. electrical stuff: $5-$10

Total: About $35


I am very happy. I can now see, and I do believe it was worth the $35. I also did the spraypaint the middle part of the taillight deal, and it helped, but still didn't put out enough light. I have them wired so they come on when I put it in reverse, I might add in a switch at some point in time so they can be used for night wheeling. A very good upgrade that I believe is necessary with a topper.

[montanatoy]

looking good but instead of using clamps why not weld the brackets to the bumper would look alot cleaner?  just my 2 cents tho.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

looking good but instead of using clamps why not weld the brackets to the bumper would look alot cleaner?  just my 2 cents tho.

The bumper is powdercoated, and I don't want to mess it up and get it redone again, but if it was just spray painted, I would do that. Thanks for the compliment!

[NorCalToy]

sick truck bro. looks like its coming along nicely.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

sick truck bro. looks like its coming along nicely.

Thanks!

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

I am wanting to run synthetic in all of my drivetrain stuff now. I pretty much decided to use Amsoil. The question is do I use the Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 which is rated for GL-5, or do I use their Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90, which is rated for GL-4? I am thinking the GL-4 stuff in transmission and transfercase, and the Severe Gear in the diffs. Comments on this? Please?

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtg.aspx 

^ GL-4 Stuff VS GL-5 Stuff v

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svg.aspx

[COToy91]

Use the the GL-5, I work at grease monkey and i looked your trucks year up in the lube manual and it calls for GL-5 75W-90 for all four boxes. GL-5 is a updated version of GL-4 anway and offers better lubrication and breakdown qualities. Manufacture rec. on changing your fluid is every 15,000 on front and rear and every 30,000 on trans and t-case. With that synthetic i would go 35,000 plus on all

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Thanks for the reply. From everyone I have talked to or read posts from on various sites like bobistheoilguy.com say the GL-5 is too slick for the synchronizers to properly work in the Toy transmissions. I don't know how much truth there is to this, so I will probably use one one time, and the other another time, and see if I notice a difference. Right now there is dead dino sauce in the transmission and transfercase, and it provides terrible shifting when really cold (like 0 and below), and "choppy" really cruddy shifting when really hot (like 90+ out). I have heard good things about the Redline MT90 so I checked it out on the Redline website, which was the first thing that led me to the GL-5 being too slick for the synchros, so I investigated, and many people agree. I was told to steer clear of the MT90 though, because it is made out of the wrong products (I don't remember what it is, I think it is called chlorinated paraffin). So, I decided on Amsoil, because from what I have learned, if you go with Amsoil, you can't go wrong, unless of course, you put the wrong fluid in. So that is why I was going to run the GL-4 in the transmission and transfercase, not the GL-5.

[Duffil]

Red Line Oil's MTL and MT-90 are designed to provide excellent protection and improved shiftability for manual transmissions and transaxles, having cured the problem of hard shifting in thousands of transmissions with shifting troubles. How? They have the appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers (many gear oils, engine oils, and ATFs are too slippery for proper synchro engagement). And, the wide viscosity of MTL and MT-90 allow proper shifting over the entire temperature range which the transmission will experience. The synthetic base oils used have a very high viscosity index which provides relatively constant viscosity as temperature changes. MTL is a low 70W at very low temperatures and a high 80W, nearly an 85W, at elevated temperatures, providing adequate viscosity to prevent wear and deaden gear noise. MT-90 is a thicker 75W90 version of MTL. The shear stability and oxidation stability of these products are excellent, thus the physical characteristics of Red Line MTL and MT-90 will change little with use.

on the block heaters, there are probably 20 different ones that we make...it's up to you.

[79coyotefrg]

Todd,  are you looking at Gl5  in a synthetic ??

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Thanks for replying Duffil! Yes that is where I first heard of the GL-5 being to slick.

Thanks for your reply as well Glen! Well, I am trying to decide between a GL-4 or GL-5 synthetic transmission and transfercase fluid. I can't find anything in town besides Mobil 1, and I am not going to pay that much for stuff that I have heard is not that good. So I pretty much decided on Amsoil, after reading a post from... I don't remember, I will try to find it, saying that Amsoil is the best synthetic lube. So I have been trying to decide between these two:

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtg.aspx

^ GL-4 Stuff VS GL-5 Stuff v

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svg.aspx

I just don't know which one to go with, because I don't know which one would be best for my transmission and transfercase. What do you reccomend?


EDIT: Ok, here is some stuff from BigMike on synthetics (for engine oil, but I would guess same applies to any lube):

My claim is pretty one minded and heres why. About 2 years ago I was at a Denny's cramming for a test and these guys behind me had a hardcore discusion about chemistry/oil formulas and what not. I was listening in and I think they must have noticed me as the one guy nearest introducted himself and asked what I was studying. I told him what my major was and he was curious to see how much I knew about engines. After quizzing me about oils and lubrications he said that I was a good kid and he gave me his card and told me to meet him the next day.

It turns out that these two guys are on a leading oil research team who helped design oils for NASA and others. They are working on an oil that when it combusts it molecularly turns into some kind of detergent rather then a contamanent and it will also lower emissions by consuming unburned particulates; like I said crazy chemistry talk of which I only understood about 20%

So as for my one sided mind, to be perfectly honest, I've never even used Amsoil, but both of these guys swear by it, were distributing it, gave me a bunch of fliers, yadda yadda yadda. They told me that Amsoil is the inventor of Synthetic oil, like back in the 60's.

I asked them how they felt about the other "over the counter" oils and he drew me a graph of his experience with testing oils. He told me that the order he would use syn oil is as follows: 100% is Amsoil, 80% is Pennzoil, and then wwaayy down at like 40% he recommended Vavoline, then Castrol, and even further down like 10% he recommended Mobil One.

And that is strange because so many manufactures use Mobil One, like Mercedes, so I'm sure they have their own researchers, but maybe Mobil One has gotten better in the last couple of years because both of these guys HATE mobil one and they said its all a bunch of market hype.

About Blended oils, the guys told me to avoid them. Also they said to avoid MULTIWEIGHTS. But everyone uses multiweights ?? The guys told me that multiweight, like 10w-30 foam and do not last nearly as long as a single weight, like a straight 30. Also, my friend does Circle track racing and he told me that every car only uses single weight oils. I don't know any politics behind that but its another thing to look into I guess..

Anyways, yesterday I was at autozone, and I needed to change my oil, so I just went with some Synthetic oil despite my rear leaking main seal. I got some Pennzoil Syn Oil. I got the new Platinum oil and went with a 10w-30. I'll let you know if my leak gets worse.

Later
BigMike

It is from this thread: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=9685.0;highlight=amsoil+synthetic#quickreply


EDIT X 2: Found this:

We recommend 80/90 weight GL5 gear oil. Any brand as long as it is GL 5. This is the factory weight oil.
Synthetic [GL 6] is always the better choice.
Use the weight that is made for manual transmissio

Marlin

From this thread: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=3549.0;highlight=what+oil+synthetic#quickreply



This:

You should never use synthetic lube on anything brand new. Use mineral oil for at least 1,000 miles of stop and go driving before switching to synthetic.

In transmissions, synchros are these round brass rings that use friction to speed-match nearby gears and shafts before the gear change is actually made. This is how we can change gears with the clutch at speeds above about 5mph. Transmissions that are shifting hard either are badly worn out or are brand new and the synchros have yet to be "seated" or broken in. The "seat" by friction wearing down uneven surfaces between the mating brass synchros and the metal gear or shaft that it comes in contact with each time you move the shift handle. So with mineral oil, their is enough friction for the synchros to wear normally. Once they are worn in, then you can switch to synthetic. If you start out with synthetic, then its believed that the frictional properties of the synthetic lube is so efficient that the brass parts dont have any time to break in because its just too slippery.

So start out with 80-90 wt GL5 mineral oil for a while, and then once it starts shifting smoothly, maybe somewhere around 1,000 - 2,000 miles, then you can drain it and fill up with synthetic.

BigMike

From this thread: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=5637.0;highlight=what+oil+synthetic#quickreply

And this:

Use either Schaeffer's Synthetic Gear oil (http://www.schaefferoil.com/) or Red Line.

You can run Syn in a t/case regardless of its age, but if your transmission is under 2,000 miles old, then I would recommend using mineral oil until the syncros have seated properly.

Regards,
BigMike

From this thread: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=9276.0;highlight=what+oil+synthetic#quickreply


And lastly this:

Tranny and Tcase should be the same.

If your going Mineral Oil, then use any 80-90 Weight GL5 Gear oil.

If your going Synthetic, then any Syn Gear Oil is ok. We recommend the best oil in the world - AMSOIL (however we do not offer it) or Redline Gear Oil.

Regards,
BigMike

From this thread: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=2186.msg18492#quickreply







And that is all for now, I can find more if needed. Maybe I should go with the GL-5?

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Ok, I have bigger problems than what fluid to run in my transmission and transfercase. My clutch master took a and decided to empty all over my cab's floor. Here are pics. The first two are the passenger side, the other two are what the driver's side now looks like. I am scraping everything off, sanding it, and spray painting it, then putting a vinyl floor down.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

New master and slave ordered, $95 shipped!

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Got the slave and master, installed slave, and new clutch line, painted floor, just need to put in the master and bleed it, but its snowing so maybe not this week. Pics!

The non cooperating vehicle:




Before:




After:

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

I don't think I ever mentioned this, but I am rebuilding the original engine for this truck. I tore it down to a short block today, and I found out that the timing chain skipped causing it to run like crap, I could tell why, but I don't feel like typing it out right now. So I pulled it out thinking it was all messed up, but it turns out its not. Anyways, that gives me more cash to do other stuff. I plan on doing an LCE EFI Pro cam using this kit: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=DF4489DB-B02B-4159-A51B-0800EDF245E8 with this cam: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=2B3BCB39-57B7-4E3B-9C29-71F773B35A7B . I am also doing the dual row timing chain kit so the timing chain wont mess up the engine again: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=A9D48148-B48B-4888-A3AC-36DAAF7F3DBC . I will use a rebuild kit from Engnbldr. I am going to gasket match all the intake and exhaust stuff and smooth out the intake stuff. I already have a header on the truck. I am debating whether I want to do oversized valves or not. I had a limit of $1000 + tax return, which is going to be around $600. I am pretty sure I can do it. I might balance the crank and all the rods and stuff depending upon how expensive the machining will be. Hopefully I do not need to do much machining because the cylinder walls look great! I am also going to do a Marlin 1600 clutch and a stepped flywheel from them as well. I also have a used TRD stage 1 cam with 40k miles on it (I got it for free from a guy at toyota) laying around.

[Duffil]

I say stick with stock valves, run a good LC cam and with the gasket match you should get some real, good, usable power.  I think you'll like it.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it! If my head is real messed up (I have not taken it apart yet and measured anything, I just took it off and set it on the shelf) I might just get the LCE head with cam and all already installed (I will have to get someone to assist in buying it). http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=A1787E97-CA50-40C5-B7F4-B30BA799BDE6 Although that will only happen if the head is really warped and is cracked real bad and stuff. Or I might just by the bare head and add my own internals and cam. http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=461AA8F1-D446-41C7-A5D7-398A3544AFC1 Or I might use the head that is on the not being rebuilt engine. I am hoping that the head will be fine, and it probably is. Again, thanks for the input!

[Wermz84]

Truck is looking good man.  I like the lights off of the rear bumper.  I'm going to have to do that now. 
Good luck with the engine build.  I'm just starting my first one.

On another note, I'm really happy with my Durabak Liner on my floor.  Been over a year now.  just an idea.   8)

[THK Matt]

damn we hope you dont have to replace the head.
thats some cash you would have to spend.

[KDXSR5 [OP]]

Truck is looking good man.  I like the lights off of the rear bumper.  I'm going to have to do that now. 
Good luck with the engine build.  I'm just starting my first one.

On another note, I'm really happy with my Durabak Liner on my floor.  Been over a year now.  just an idea.   8)

Thanks! I really like the lights, they make backing up with my shell on so much easier because I can actually see where I am going at night. I might run another wire to a switch so they can be switched on whenever, not just when the brake lights are on.

The teardown is the easy part, its the putting it back together thats the hard part.

I want to run a bed liner, but I also want to try a vinyl floor first. If I do not like the vinyl floor, I will end up using bedliner on it. Thanks for the tip!

damn we hope you dont have to replace the head.
thats some cash you would have to spend.

Yeah, I really hope I do not have to replace the head. I probably wont, I was just looking at options incase I do have to replace it.

[Yota87Truck]

looks like a nice build and a pretty clean rig