Project Snoopy: 85 4Runna - Rebuild 1.0

[79coyotefrg]

hey  whatcha gonna do with the ebrake 

[79coyotefrg]

  Can't really blow up. For it to blow up, you need air, spark, and fuel. Not enough air to keep it going into the tank. We did stop cutting after we found that I'm 

um  how much gas is in the tank??  if its under half a tank thats  enough air  to burn  you skinny but beyond recognition 

  dont make me come up there 

[Jordan7118]

Gas tank was full... Like completely full. I filled up before I put it in the shop last May, so it's probably not good.

E-Brake kit has to be sold now  What's your best offer? 

[Gittinit]

I love the flatbelly pics! Nice. I should have went the extra step and costomized my seat sliders to fit around the notch I would have made under the passanger seat. Or just went with some seats that didn't slide. There wasn't a rotated adapter avalible when I raised my cases either.

So since your going back to the 4rnrrick desighn are you thinking bout going with the full underbelly skidd too? That would be cool!

[Jordan7118]

So since your going back to the 4rnrrick desighn are you thinking bout going with the full underbelly skidd too? That would be cool!

Yep, I'm gonna make a full skid. It's gonna be nuts. Eff... I just wanna wheel. You wanna come up and help build? I pay for the drinks 

[Gittinit]

Yep, I'm gonna make a full skid. It's gonna be nuts. Eff... I just wanna wheel. You wanna come up and help build? I pay for the drinks 

You paying for what my truck drinks on the way there? You got somewhere to stay and you gonna feed me? Am I asking to much?

[Jordan7118]

You paying for what my truck drinks on the way there? You got somewhere to stay and you gonna feed me? Am I asking to much?

Hmmm... How much does your truck drink? I'll put you up for the weekend and we'll cook our own food. It'll be good. And no, you're probably not asking too much for me to ask you to come hang out. I was kinda joking, though. I'll let you know when it becomes serious 

[Jordan7118]

I need help with fuel cell stuff. I wanna put it above the rear axle. I'm not totally opposed to making it flush mounted with the floor in the rear.

I'm looking for a fuel cell that holds around 15 gallons and preferably is blank in that it doesn't have anything cut into it except for maybe line outlets on the bottom. I'm trying to reuse my Toyota fuel pump and sender unless someone convinces me differently.

Still no progress shop-wise, but I am doing some research 

[Gittinit]

Hmmm... How much does your truck drink? I'll put you up for the weekend and we'll cook our own food. It'll be good. And no, you're probably not asking too much for me to ask you to come hang out. I was kinda joking, though. I'll let you know when it becomes serious 

Let me know. I'm usually willing to lend a helping hand whenever I can.

[DTB]

This thing gonna be done for flat nasty in May?

[Jordan7118]

Let me know. I'm usually willing to lend a helping hand whenever I can.

Any weekend pretty much is fine with me. Let me know what kinda costs I'm incurring before hand so I can get my $$$ in order 

This thing gonna be done for flat nasty in May?

What's the date? That'd be SOOOOOOO tight! I could bring my friend, too, and he'll bring either his 35"'d military mutt or his 44'd Early Bronco 

[79coyotefrg]

E-Brake kit has to be sold now  What's your best offer? 

  um  if  things  change for me soon  I'll get back to ya on that  ,as of now do ya need a drivers side door??  any dash parts??  i got a tcase from a w56B,  um 

[Jordan7118]

I need a top shift shifter, base, and snap ring.

Don't need doors - got a full set.

Make an offer and we'll go from there. If it comes down to it, we can work out payment later. No biggie.

[Jordan7118]

I've decided to make my own fuel cell much like Mossyrocks did. I'm shooting for 14 gallons, stock pump, pickup, etc. Will be constructed of steel.

Here's Mossyrocks write up - http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=43611.0;highlight=mossyrocks

This weekend I'd like to get the mounts for my t-case done. I also would like to get the rear axle moved up 2 -3 inches by moving the center pin holes.

I've located some tires in Memphis, TN, so I'll be going to get them soon. Working on finishing up the details on that. Like new 38.5 SXs, 4 of 'em with almost brand new tread - made one trip down the block apparently. We'll see how it works out.

Those with fuel cell fab experience please post up! 

[4RnrRick]

You probably already know this, but I thought I would comment....




This is a picture of Quasimodo 's crossmember early in the fab process. Marlin Rotated 10 degree T-case, 2" body lift and basically a stock tunnel and my own custom T-case mount which is like FROR, but less bulky on the top side for tunnelt clearance... I was actually shocked that I didn't have to cut the tunnel up to get a flat belly!







This is what I'm doing for Tuki using the same T-case mount as above. One problem with using double bushings like I did on Quasimodo, was it made it difficult to install because the frame would always spread on my slightly. So when I was designing Tuki - I decided to try to cure that problem by bolting the crossmember in. also for the flat belly - I made two seperate crossmembers. The front one is for my lower link mounts and front driveline carrier bearing. the rear one is for my lower link mounts and T-case support. Then inbetwen the two, I made a light weight removable skidplate. this should make servicing stuff really simple since everything is seperate. Before if I just wanted to drain the fluid - I would have to remove the whole flat belly which meant also supported the T-case. But now I can just remove the skidplate and work.






Keep up the good work - flat and smooth is the only way to go IMO!

Quasimodo


Tuki

[bigarms23]

nice and clean

[Jordan7118]

Thanks for the words, Rick You're the man I need to hear from.

I'm wondering (and others chime in here) if 1/4" plate is thick enough for the t-case mount. 3/8" is preferable, as it's 1.5 times the thickness, but it's quite pricey, and I can't use a full sheet. If I get a full sheet of 1/4" plate, I can use it for the skid, and it's cheaper to buy in sheets from a wholesaler I know. Any thoughts?

I can't believe you didn't have to cut up Quasi to get a flat belly. I've cut way into Snoop to tuck the drivetrain, and even then it's tight on the tranny tunnel near the firewall. I also notice your lines are on the other side. Factory? 2wd? 3RZ custom?

I plan to copy almost identically how you've done your stuff, Rick, in that I'll mount the t-case mount with two bushings to square tube that acts as a crossmember and skid mount.

So, when you get time, would you mind telling me if 1/4" is thick enough? Maybe add some bracing coming off it towards the rear, just some plate? Thanks for your help, and I'm glad you stopped by 

If you were talking by my runner, thanks, BigArms, otherwise, yea, Rick's stuff is nice and clean 

[Jordan7118]

So, 1/4" thick enough? 

Gonna make a steel run tomorrow, so your advice is appreciated.

Fuel cell is looking more and more feasible. Gonna give it a shot this weekend.

No real updates or epiphanies. Happy Birthday, Michael (gittinit)!

[Gittinit]

So, 1/4" thick enough? 

Gonna make a steel run tomorrow, so your advice is appreciated.

Fuel cell is looking more and more feasible. Gonna give it a shot this weekend.

No real updates or epiphanies. Happy Birthday, Michael (gittinit)!

I have a pice of 3/8 that might work for you. You can pick it up in hotsprings this weekend if you want, or If you want call me and I will measure it and make shure it is of an appropriate size, It had some weird shape cut out of it so it may not work.

I think 1/4 may be thick enough, but I dunno

[MiniSimp]

I'd be sketched about 1/4"
I broke my 3/8" FROR plate.

[Jordan7118]

I'd be sketched about 1/4"
I broke my 3/8" FROR plate.

Really? How'd it break? Dang't...

I have a pice of 3/8 that might work for you. You can pick it up in hotsprings this weekend if you want, or If you want call me and I will measure it and make shure it is of an appropriate size, It had some weird shape cut out of it so it may not work.

I think 1/4 may be thick enough, but I dunno

Welp, thanks for the offer, but I need to stay here and work on Snoop. Dang't.

So, iffy on 1/4" now. Dang. Bad news... 

[Jordan7118]

Went to the shop tonight. Got distracted by the beadlocks and ended up getting the single SX I have mounted up...  It looks really good. Pics coming soon. What color should the rings be? I'm thinking MRW orange. I like that look.

Started thinking about the fuel cell, and I think I'm going to make it work by cutting out the rear tube crossmember in the back and putting in a new one for the shocks to mount to in /\ fashion. Then I have a spot to mount the cell as well.

I found a 1/2" thick piece that'll work for the t-case bracket. That might be a little thick though  I'll see if I can get some 3/8" tomorrow.

To do:
-Finish beadlocks
   -Paint rims and rings
   -Tighten up bolts on single SX
-Install front shock towers
-Fuel cell with stock sender/pump/etc.
-T-case bracket
-Mock up flatbelly stuff
-Cut out horsecollar and replace with new crossmember
-Fender trimming and tubbing
-Transmission tunnel with removable cover
-Redrill center pin for rear - realized tonight I should have just moved the front hanger forward and relocated the rear 

If time:
-Mount up ARB wiring
-Put radiator back in
-Run e-locker harness
-Tub firewall
-Put grill back on

So you can see I have a lot of stuff to do... I have a couple helpers, and I'm just hoping I can convey to them my ideas on how I need this stuff built. Otherwise, they're not much of helpers and really just time killers.

Most of the progress will come Saturday, so I'll post up when I can.

[79coyotefrg]

  i wondered about that hanger issue

Jordan,  I found somebody with "unique" fab skills,  heres a link http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=672978

[Jordan7118]

Yep. I should have just centered the axle and redone the rear mounts. You learn and move on. I might fix it later. Who knows. I have to keep going, though. I'll just redrill the center pins.

Spent some dough on steel today  bought a sheet of 3/16" for skidplate and frame plates. I've got a crew prepped and ready to go tomorrow on Snoop. Our biggest goals are t-case mount, fuel cell, shock mounting, tranny tunnel, fender clearancing, firewall tub, and rear fender tubs. That's a lot, so we'll see how far we go.

Lined up 4 38.5 SXs with like new tread. Rolled around the block and that's it. I'll pick them up the weekend of the 19th.

Glen, I'll check on that pirate unique fab later. I'm going to bed, as I've got to get up at 6:30 

Oh, and I was just told the welder at the shop is low on gas  ASDFA;FSJDA;FFJ;LF Dang't...

[Jordan7118]

I think I spent too much time thinking this weekend and not enough doing... 

I had some help this weekend, so one guy worked on painting the beadlock rims (they're nice  ) while I worked with another to make the t-case bracket. Another guy started work on putting the shock hoops in.

By our powers combined, we got the single tire mounted and didn't finish most of the other things... 

Tire looks good. I think the color was a good choice, as it says, "I'm here to beat your  "


I made pretty good progress on the t-case bracket. I need to find some 1.5" bushings to go inside the pipe I have. I realized into the build that I should make my crossmember to mount it first. I can't finish cutting the plate until I know exactly where the crossmember is. Oops... Plus, we had to go to another person's house to borrow their plasma, as ours didn't seem to be doing the trick. Then later that night, our plasma worked fine. Go figure... And yes, I do know the bracket goes on the other side of the plate. I was just making sure the holes were nice and straight. Step drill bits work amazing, FYI. Center punch and then go to town with some oil. Cut like a charm 


I think it'll go faster when I stop thinking so gosh darn hard.

I did get all the frame plates cut out. It takes three plates per frame side (two sandwhich plates to weld on for the sleeves) and one to weld the square tube to for the crossmembers. This means I need 12 of those frame plate cut, so that's what we did. 3/16" plate should be good, I think.

I'm kickin' myself for not doing more, but I'm getting there very slowly.

Michael "gittinit" sent me a message that he had to tell me something about the F150 springs from what he experienced this weekend, so I'm interested to hear what he has to say.

[YotaJosh]

Michael "gittinit" sent me a message that he had to tell me something about the F150 springs from what he experienced this weekend, so I'm interested to hear what he has to say.

I'm interested in what he has to say, too. Mine are finished, and I'm happy. I haven't done any flex testing, but from looking out the window as I was wheeling, I think I'm happy. 

[Gittinit]

This weekends expirence got me thinking and I want to give you a heads up about my findings. My friend Mike has been running f150 rears on his runner for nearly a year now.

1st setup under the frame with short side forward, and the gas tank in stock location. It work well this way but there was one issue. The springs would let the axle move side to side under the rig. The pinion and driveshaft yolke would contact the tank right near the skid plate.

2nd setup was with the tank moved and the springs in stock location. this also included loosing alot of the weight out of the rear of the EXrunner, causing a decrease in suspension movement.

3rd setup, was inboarding the springs. We decided to inboard the springs to the same with as the front springs. This was the most drastic inprovement as it allowed the tire to stuff in the now non exhistant fenderwells. Axle controol was not an issue at this point either as the springs worked flawlessly.

4th and currently the  prings are flipped around for a 6" increase in wheelbase, so we could clear the new tires,  39.5 iroks, without modifying the sliders. This seems to me to flex like mad, but axle controll is a problem.  The larger tires like to manhande the springs, to the point of bending. The leverage on the springs due to being fliped long side forward seems to be drastically increased. The majority of the issue could be overcome with a traction bar/antiwrap bar of sorts. I would consider a traction bar a nescissety for using these springs mounted with the long side forward.


I just wanted to share my findings and mabye give ya something to chew over. I hope this info helps. I will update ya with what he does to cure his spring bending, cv breaking woes. I would have got a pic but I dropped my camera in the water, before this happened.

[Jordan7118]

Preston told me I'd probably need a trac-bar, so I'm prepared to do that. Thanks for the evaluation, though. I guess the bar is really a necessity now instead of just a thought 

Thanks, Michael! 

[Gittinit]

Preston told me I'd probably need a trac-bar, so I'm prepared to do that. Thanks for the evaluation, though. I guess the bar is really a necessity now instead of just a thought 

Thanks, Michael! 

I think I would build one that dosent have the shackle, but instead slips, and twists. This way you can use it to keep the springs from pusing forward and bending/kinking at the spring hanger. This is the plan I have in mind if Mike is willing to do it my way. 

[Jordan7118]

Good idea'r!