Topic: Over heating. found the problem!!!!

[BikerTrash]

Ok, back in January I brought my truck to have a new engine put in it, whe I got it back near the end of MARCH it seemed to run warmer than it had before but I saw on the invoyce they gave me they put a new thermostat in it so figured they jsut put hotter thermostat, no big deal was running the coolest one I could find before.


Now here is the problem, it is august now and if I drive in town, about 30 it runs fine, and cools like it should, on the trail it is fine, but if I get on the highway the temp rises quickly to about 205 at the begining of July, and then yesterday while pulling an empty trailer, it almost got to 215. I dont know what the problem with the truck could be, has a brand new radiator installed the same time as the engine, new water pump.


Any sugjestions? 

I am suposed to bring it back to the shop when I get in from off-shore so they can check it out but if they tell me that I ran it too hot, and my waranty is voided, I am not going to have them do a damn thing with the truck.

[79coyotefrg]

it could be  the timing is  a tad off

but  i would first look at the thermostat

if they claim you ran it too hot,  take it somewhere else

[*ROKTOY*]

X2 on the timing, also it might be running to lean.

[Rocksnail]

x3 on timing

[olemisstoy88]

4x timing,  feel your exhaust if its too hot to hot your hand in it for a few seconds you are running lean. check and back check work done by others they might say they are "professonals" but theyir work may say otherwise...

[YotaChris]

What engine? EFI? Did you check the thermostat? A new one can still be bad. What temp is it rated? Ignition timing could also be too far advanced which would be alright at low rpm but at higher rpm it would make it run hot and most of the time detonate.

[BikerTrash [OP]]

Sorry, Guess I was a little vague on some points here.

1984 22r with a 32/36 webber. All emsions equipment removed.

Everyone has mentioned the timing, my vacume advance right now is just one vacumeline teed off the go onto both ports on the distributor.

Going to buy a timing light and check it out when I get home.


P.S. if my setup is wrong with the vacume let me know so I can fix it.

[YotaChris]

As far as I know they run 2 different vacume lines to control the advance at different rpm's I don't know if just one t'd will work. Why aren't you running them both?

[79coyotefrg]

Sorry, Guess I was a little vague on some points here.

1984 22r with a 32/36 webber. All emsions equipment removed.

Everyone has mentioned the timing, my vacume advance right now is just one vacumeline teed off the go onto both ports on the distributor.

Going to buy a timing light and check it out when I get home.


P.S. if my setup is wrong with the vacume let me know so I can fix it.

dude,  you got a weber,  best thing you can do is swap  your 22R distributor  for a 20R distributor,  gives a slightly longer spark,   
thats what i run,  and its  a 1 vacuum line setup  same as the carb you have

[BikerTrash [OP]]

best thing you can do is swap  your 22R distributor  for a 20R distributor,  gives a slightly longer spark,   

Ok, will have to look for one when I make it home this week. Would rather fix it myself and be sure to have it for my clubs run we are going on than just hope the shop fixes it in time.

Anycertain year I need to find?

[BikerTrash [OP]]

OK, Bought a timing light, hooked it up, and at 950 rpm with the advance disconnected like the sticker under the hood says to set the timing, my timing was PAST the 12 mark. Hooked up the vacuum just to see and revved it to about 2 grand and it went to about where I figure 22 degrees would be if the gauge went that far.

when I set the timing to 5 degrees btdc like the sticker said the idle dropped down to about 650 rpm or so, messed with the carb till it was back running at 950, rechecked timing, hooked up the vacuum and it advanced to about 11 btdc.  Took it around the block and it feels alot better but still running warm, at this point I m thinking that my carb settings are off. I pulled #1's plug and it is not white so i don't think I am running lean.


Cant find my instructions for the carb to reset everything  and start over but right now my exhaust when coasting in gear pops and sputters alot which I thought meant I was lean till I pulled the plug... now I am just confused.

[MiniSimp]

What temp thermostat is in there now?

[BikerTrash [OP]]

what ever temperature the shop put in when they installed it. they charged me for a new thermostat. I am about to pull it and put a 180 into it regardless of what it has now. since I posted I messed with my carb, no longer "lopes" at idle, drives allot better, but still going to about 200 in normal driving with nothing but me in the truck. I know thats not too terribly hot, but it has always run at 190 like I said and I would like to keep it that way.

[MiniSimp]

It should be a 195*
Put it in a pot of water with a thermometer. Heat it up and see what temp it opens at.

[BikerTrash [OP]]

Ok, Been a while since I posted on here. Now it is behaving it self fine on the highway but around town it is killing me.

First a question. Just how hot does one of these truck normally run while idling? I am used to my electric fans I had before running constantly and If i ever saw anything about 190 I had a problem.

Got rid of the electric fan, Got a shroud and fan off ebay (along with a 20 dollar fan clutch that will not be discussed). Again like I said, fine of the highway but if I idle for any time at all, less than a min the temperature comes up to about 212.

Today brand new Hayden that I put on Literally only about 6 hours ago, Pulls hard right at start up, then never does again. Called haydens customer support line and they said the clutch wont lock up again until the air going over it reaches 170 degrees and that the radiator will probably get to 200 before it can warm the air that much. 

I know alto of people are probably going to suggest going get the Toyota fan and that is an option. but the nearest toyota from here is over an hour drive and I would have to make the trip twice, once to order and pay, the second to pick it up.

My club I am in is going to Gray Rock on the 5th, the hotshot is already lined up and I have paid the guy and would hate this stupid problem make me miss out on ANOTHER ride. I just would like to fix it and have it be right and I would hate to buy the Toyota fan clutch and find out this is how the temperature is supposed to behave with a fan clutch.

All my other trucks have never had gages. Just idiot lights. Sorry for all the stupid questions, Just I have tried everything everyone has suggested and am running out of ideas.

Also had Toyota run the vin on my truck and they gave me the original equipment & temperature thermostat for it, temperature was in Celsius so I don't know just what it was in F.

[BikerTrash [OP]]

The waterpump has crapped out!. It pumps above say 1500 rpm but not under, thats why it was overheating @ idle.

I was Flushing the coolant ang going to put straight water + water wetter when I decided I would pop the thermostat off and check this just as a lark. Now I just got to order a water pump ^_^

[Cheesemaker]

I see in the first post that you had a new water pump put on it when you got the new motor, is this right?  Is there a warranty?  Should have lasted longer!

[BikerTrash [OP]]

It is one of those cheep20 dollar autozone special. with as slow as the shop works, it is worth more than that just to have it fixed quickly.

[Doable]

Glad to hear that you are getting the problen figured out. Give me a call before you go on the run, I can't make the run because I'm on call. You can take my spare parts with you if you want.

[BikerTrash [OP]]

Thats one hell of an offer friend. I appreciate it.

[Doable]

Josh, if I understand you with the truck sitting still and at idle the temperature will climb pass 200 ? If so to me it sounds like the radiator is stooped up not allowing enough flow since the clutch fan and shrould is working correctly.Not sure but you could drop in a 180 degree thermostat since your truck is carbed.

[BikerTrash [OP]]

Well, I went to toyota and got the factory thermostat and waterpump, I just figured to put what ever the truck had from the factory would probably be best.

Truck is being worked on now by my mechanic, I hope he finds something before I get home, Only good news abotu my truck this week was my Bumper arived.

[Prismo]

I have had the impeller come loose on the shaft on a brand new water pump in the past. Will not work well when that happens

[BikerTrash [OP]]

I have had the impeller come loose on the shaft on a brand new water pump in the past. Will not work well when that happens

No, I would think not.

Well my mechanic belives it is nothing wong with the truck, just my (also brand new) water temperature guage has died.  Cheep ass o'rielly guage, goign to pick up an an autometer on my way home this week.

I guess its always true, you get what you pay for.

[JD]

Hy BikerTrash,

I had the same problem as you. My truck stayed nice and cool as long as I was moving, but nearly boiled over when sitting and idling.

What my problem turned out to be was my radiator fan was bolted on backwards (it is very easy to do this by accident). So rather than sucking air into the radiator it was pushing air away. As long as I was moving I was OK, but when I stopped I would overheat due to lack of air flow into the radiator.

So try double-checking that. Took me months to figure out the problem.

[79toy20r]

I have a ford taurus e-fan on my 1979 20r. New radiator and stock thermostat, which is a 195 I believe. Sitting in traffic in about 100 degree weather it got close to 210 but never broke it. It runs right about 195-200 when moving. but it doesn't seem like your getting to awful hot if you're barely breaking 210...Your thermostat might be a 195