Author Topic: Building Sheila (22r-e conversion) DONE!!! (Read 87494 times)

crazykooter · « **Reply #210 on:** Aug 20, 2010, 09:23:33 PM »

Rocko what readings did u get ? Im sure you know what HC CO relate to. I am gonna guess and say at 15 mph your HCs are a little high and the CO's are passing but still rather high compared to avg. I am pretty good at figuring out whats wrong by the smog test numbers.

Caboose bud all I can think of is there must be another sensor that relates to the tps which is kicking that code or a short some where.
Tho you can rig the check engine light to come on with aux power and turn off when the engine starts. Really simple and could get your rig at-least legal.

Caboose · « **Reply #211 on:** Aug 21, 2010, 03:44:43 AM »

Quote from: crazykooter on Aug 20, 2010, 09:23:33 PM

Caboose bud all I can think of is there must be another sensor that relates to the tps which is kicking that code or a short some where.
Tho you can rig the check engine light to come on with aux power and turn off when the engine starts. Really simple and could get your rig at-least legal.

No, when u jump the check connector to check the codes, it wont flash once then for the ref. He will know something is up and again, not pass me...

SpiffyTiffy · « **Reply #212 on:** Sep 04, 2010, 02:22:42 AM »

this thread needs updates!

Sleeve of Wizzard · « **Reply #213 on:** Sep 05, 2010, 05:30:24 PM »

Have you messed with it anymore?

Caboose · « **Reply #214 on:** Sep 05, 2010, 07:54:46 PM »

nope... school started and i'm having trouble finding the time. I need to put the intake back together so i can take it up to a guy in oakhurst who said he would fix it for me.

TURBO · « **Reply #215 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 07:02:17 PM »

ok, so my latest hunch was that i wired a hot to the "check connector T" wire, (Green-Yellow) but i unplugged the wire (Green-Yellow) from the connector that goes to the computer, cut (i couldn't believe it myself) a wire off my complete 86 Turbo harness about 10 inches long and stripped the end off and put that end to ground and plugged the other end into the connector, and plugged the connector into the computer turned the key on and the check engine light STILL flashes 11 times

so the Green-Yellow wire, I'm going to say is good... because there was no difference running it threw the harness or direct to ground
(see wiring diagram on page 3)

Caboose · « **Reply #216 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 08:44:31 PM »

TPS is good, computer is good, check connector is good....... wtf!

Is it illegal to bribe a smog shop?

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #217 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 09:25:13 PM »

what happend to the whole EFI setup I sold you?
just a thought? although I never RAN it... it didnt flash any codes while I PRETENDED to run it?

Caboose · « **Reply #218 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 10:00:54 PM »

oh, its still sitting in my side yard. The 85 is way more simple, figured it would be more easy to install and run. Your 89 is a backup. If i can get this 85 to work i can sell the extra efi and put it towards my 3rd members, dlines, or a few misc parts i still need for my lift.

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #219 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 11:10:56 PM »

Just really sucks...

especially considering that the setup I gave you was a complete pulled harness? only think that would have to be figured out is the fuel pump and tail light stuff? otherwise... change out plug ends for the simple stuff like blower motors and stuff? after pulling that harness, I have NO FEAR of ever doing something like to a rig of mine if needed... I would totally do a 3.4 swap if I needed to.

Caboose · « **Reply #220 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 11:15:04 PM »

We wanted to keep it as factory as possible with the 81 stuff. Y change plugs when you dont have to. Plus what happens when your old blower motor has 5 pins when the 89 had 6. where does the extra pin go? Be easier to just take what you need for the engine and splice it in. Idk, 2 ways to accomplish the same thing.

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #221 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 11:19:50 PM »

for sure man, I hear yah on that... just sucks. shouldnt be that hard

Caboose · « **Reply #222 on:** Dec 08, 2010, 11:22:47 PM »

Quote from: BoG-ToY on Dec 08, 2010, 11:19:50 PM

shouldnt be that hard

famous last words.

Caboose · « **Reply #223 on:** Dec 09, 2010, 12:21:26 AM »

WE GOT IT! We know how to fix my blinking light issue... anyone have a basic stamp i could buy?

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #224 on:** Dec 09, 2010, 09:17:02 AM »

hook it up to an oil pressure idiot light and hope nobody catches it? (untill the did the jumper.. lol)

Caboose · « **Reply #225 on:** Dec 09, 2010, 09:53:31 AM »

Hook the check engine light up to a basic stamp. Tell it how long to blink and how long to pause. have the ground go through the jumper so when you jumper it, it flashes 1 time. (Normal Code)

Anyone know if the ref will purposefully throw a code to test for this? IE: disconnect the knock sensor, tps, airflow, etc?

BigMike · « **Reply #226 on:** Dec 09, 2010, 12:29:41 PM »

Or you could save yourself about $90 and instead use a capacitor, resistor, and a transistor and build your own time-delayed open-close circuit. Wouldn't be more than $5 at the Shack (don't buy from Sparky's Electronics, they are a bunch of communists).

Mike

TURBO · « **Reply #227 on:** Dec 09, 2010, 12:51:28 PM »

time to get drastic!!!

TURBO · « **Reply #228 on:** Dec 09, 2010, 12:54:11 PM »

yeah mike but what about when the key is on and the truck is off... stamp could do this but the circuit u described i dont see how you could

BigMike · « **Reply #229 on:** Dec 09, 2010, 09:09:23 PM »

I will not argue the ease of programing a microcontroller. That is the most robust route to take.

But you could hook the hot side of the check engine light to the ignition ON circuit (black-red or black-orange wires). Then for the ground side, use a relay. The relay will be activated whenever the key is in the ON position but the engine is not running. This could be done by checking for a hot signal from the opening circuit relay which would be dead if the engine is dead. Then once the engine starts up this circuit will be deactivated by the relay. So that takes care of the case of the key in the ON position and the engine not running.

Then for when the key goes into the START position, that is when you could charge the capacitor for the timer circuit. It only takes a few milliseconds for this to happen to its likely the check engine light wouldn't even flicker during the ignition cycle. Once the engine is running and the key has returned to the ON position, the timer circuit would go dead and by calculating the RC-Time constant, we could control how long you'd like the light to stay on simply by changing the resistance.

Mike

motormouth559 · « **Reply #230 on:** Dec 10, 2010, 12:03:03 AM »

caboose need to see your truck done man !!! let me know if you need any help and pm me what parts your looking for your suspension i got lots of stuff laying around $Beer Chug\'n$

TURBO · « **Reply #231 on:** Dec 10, 2010, 03:51:42 AM »

the "normal" code the light will flash "on" for 0.5 seconds turn off and stay off for 5.0 seconds, then repeat...

this is all hypothetical and in the sake of curiosity,

i don't know much about capacitors... will a capacitor do this? and would it change if say the battery was to drop it's voltage? from like 12.6v to like 10.4v? and what about if the alternator is charging at 14.7v?

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #232 on:** Dec 10, 2010, 05:59:11 AM »

Quote from: Caboose on Dec 09, 2010, 09:53:31 AM

Hook the check engine light up to a basic stamp. Tell it how long to blink and how long to pause. have the ground go through the jumper so when you jumper it, it flashes 1 time. (Normal Code)

Anyone know if the ref will purposefully throw a code to test for this? IE: disconnect the knock sensor, tps, airflow, etc?

The refs used to use a code reader. They would also use a jumper to check timing which throws a code. The last time I went to a ref, it was just completely visual, he didn't test anything. The smog guy will do his normal test once the ref gives you a sticker

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #233 on:** Dec 10, 2010, 07:46:49 AM »

My only concern would be that I believe it is a federal offense to attempt such modification for this purpose

Caboose · « **Reply #234 on:** Dec 10, 2010, 11:02:48 PM »

Quote from: BoG-ToY on Dec 10, 2010, 07:46:49 AM

My only concern would be that I believe it is a federal offense to attempt such modification for this purpose

You have the code? I would like to see such a code...

TURBO · « **Reply #235 on:** Dec 23, 2010, 03:25:01 AM »

like i sayed it's all hypothetical... i was just curious how the circuit would have to be...

TURBO · « **Reply #236 on:** Dec 23, 2010, 03:26:05 AM »

TURBO · « **Reply #237 on:** Dec 23, 2010, 03:27:25 AM »

Caboose · « **Reply #238 on:** Dec 23, 2010, 03:30:55 AM »

TURBO · « **Reply #239 on:** Dec 23, 2010, 03:42:28 AM »

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