Toybrota's 22R build

[Gnarly4X]

My first start is always with plain old water...........

just saying.

Hey e,

Yes.. this is a great tip. 

I did this with my 22R head job.  I found all kinds of "particles" (pieces of gasket material, RTV, other stuff) when I drained it.

I did NOT use just water on my recent rebuild, and ended up with slimy, sticky ethylene glycol running up my arm as I had to fix a leak at the little hoses under the IAC valve. 

Gnarls. 

[Toybrota]

Hey Toybrota,

Well... it's great that you got your engine to fire right up and it sounded really good. 

Leaks at 1st time start ups are not uncommon.  I've had coolant leaks almost every time I have fired a fully rebuilt or partially rebuilt engine.

I am very careful about trusting what any auto parts store says, they're in the "sell-you-everything" business. 

Regarding the block heater, when I looked at the photo I could not see how it would have enough contact with the block freeze plug bore to sufficiently seal.  But I have never used a block heater.  As you know, freeze plugs are pounded in under a very tight tolerance.  The amount of pressure (pounds per square inch) on those plugs is about 30 PSI if your radiator cap is 13 lb. cap!  Risking a coolant leak that size would be crazy.  I would consider a different block heater. 

Pressure testing a coolant system when an engine is cold and pressure testing when it's at normal running temperature are two different things. 

My guess is the reason it didn't restart is probably mixture (air/fuel) issue and nothing mechanical.   

If engine ran for about 60 seconds, that is plenty of time to get the oil up into the rockers, cam, through all the bearings and cylinder walls.

Obviously you got another 15 minutes at RPMs to complete the camshaft break-in.

Gnarls. 

The engine ran great! Everything is Definitely oiled up well.
I am doing a different block heater, I'm returning the one I got in favor of a magnetic electrical heater that goes on your oil pan. For the mean time, I will be using a rubber freeze plug in the hole I pulled the heater out of.
Coolant leaks are common on first start up, you are right. That's why  checking the system with a tester is important. If I can pressurize the system to 13 PSI (rad cap threshold) then I don't have any leaks.
Before I start it up I am going to verify timing again (pulling valve cover and making sure it's all good)
I'd like to note as well, this thing didn't have a single leak prior to the little blow out, everything else is sealed properly!

I plan to get the break-in done today after I fix the freeze-plug. One thing I noticed is the oil pressure, over 60psi at hot idle. I expect about as much with the new pump. The pressure is constant too, as fluctuating numbers can attribute to blocked oil passages... Not for me.


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[Toybrota]

Made progress already today.
I installed a new brass freezeplug, and returned the damn Block heater.
I got the magnetic one and put her on my oil pan.
I currently am pressure testing the system, I brought it up to 15 psi and saw a few drips out of some hoses. A quick tighten on the hose clamp and she's good! No drips out of the freeze-plug.
I'm gonna let it sit for about 15 minutes at 13psi to see if it bleeds down. No leaks anywhere.

Next I will pull the valve cover, make sure everything is looking good and I'll start it up again.



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[Toybrota]

Well, I'd attach a video of it running if I could!
But she runs great. There still is some seeping from the freeze plug, I didn't get it in properly.
I learned today that I'm renting the install tool tomorrow.
I'm also going to put some sealant around the edge, apparently everyone does this and I didn't. Probably why it failed.

Back to how it drives... Because it does!

Today I took her for a spin around my neighborhood. And I tell ya, that redline was worth every penny!
This transmission shifts like it's brand new.
The engine runs and drives great. Maintains good oil pressure, and doesn't overheat.
I'm running the larger Toyota oil filter, I thought this would be perfect for the break-in as it can catch more stuff. I'll be running this oil for 400 excruciatingly documented miles.




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[Toybrota]

Got a FANTASTIC deal on this Snap-on core plug installation set. Retails for $298, but I got it for $60.
I know, weird odd-ball tool I'll need only once.
Today I'm gonna install the freeze plug properly using this tool. It comes with a 40MM attachment, which is what the Toyota plugs are.
I think my main issue before was I installed the freeze-plug without a proper tool, the plug didn't start going in straight with a socket, so I could never get it fully flush. I may actually drill a hole in the fender so I can hit the plug properly....

Trying to figure out another use for this tool when I'm done. I would've rented one, but I couldn't find a single place in the whole Salt Lake valley that rented it.

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[NotPossible907]

You might consider turning those tie wraps down.  The little clipped off piece sticks up and is extremely sharp.
Gnarls.

I've always twisted them off above the square lock with a pair of pliers. Breaks them flush and not sharp.

Good looking build so far!

[300k]

These are the bee's tiddys for cutting zip ties. Never cut myself on a ziptie when I cut them with these.

[Gnarly4X]

I've always twisted them off above the square lock with a pair of pliers. Breaks them flush and not sharp.

Good looking build so far!

Interesting... that definitely does NOT work for me. 

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

Flush cut with razor blade......

[Gnarly4X]

Flush cut with razor blade......

Hmmmm... I've tried that also... didn't work well for me. 

Gnarls. 

[Toybrota]

Good news! About to hit the first 100 miles on the rebuild, and she's running awesome. Doesn't leak a drop of anything. I've been driving it around on the streets and not on the freeway.

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[RASALIBRE]

Thoroughly enjoyed following along with your engine build and problem solving skills. Hope the updates (good or bad) keep coming. 

[Toybrota]

Thoroughly enjoyed following along with your engine build and problem solving skills. Hope the updates (good or bad) keep coming.  [emoji481]

Thanks!

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[Toybrota]

Truck is running amazing as usual. No oil use whatsoever. It's strange having a nice and clean and quiet 22R! Tomorrow I'll probably get close to the 300 mile mark.

One thing though, the shifter seat finally ended up disintegrating - As they all do over time.
This means it's time for a Marlin Delrin shift seat!

I pulled all the spark plugs the other day as well and they all look great. No evidence of running overly rich or lean. Gas mileage is AWFUL though. I calculated about 13.5, I assume this is a combination of several things. The EGR removal, it's a new motor.... I expect it to go up soon.



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[Toybrota]

Some interesting things have been happening with the build. First off, it's apparent that it has a rear main seal leak.
I had the machine shop install a sleeve on the crank, looks like it wasn't done right or they just don't work.
I'm not worried though, the oil level hasn't dropped at all. I topped off the oil after I changed the filter on break in, like 200 miles ago. Level has stayed consistent.
I think Toyota installed the steel adapter plate for a reason, prevents a leaky rear main from affecting the clutch components.

And secondly, an interesting issue with a leaky rad cap.
Today I was doing door dash, a food delivery service. I had been driving the truck around for about 2 hours, in stop and go and idling traffic. I drive up a few hills and when I stop the truck and come back, it has leaked a bit. I come home, and check the coolant after it cools down. Level is fine.
Online searching says head gasket or bad rad cap.
It can't be the head gasket. No signs whatsoever of overheating, or oil in coolant or vice versa. This rad cap is from my other truck, I just swapped them to see if it was bad. Both work fine, both radiators are the same.
The other idea is that there is too much coolant in the system. A few days ago I heard some gurgling from the heater core area, which is now since gone. I figured this normal as it working a air bubble out of the system. Haven't heard anything since.
It's possible the rad cap is just bad, it definitely doesn't fit snug. Same pressure rating.
It also isn't pushing coolant into the overflow tank. When I experienced a blow HG on a 22R that's the main thing it did.

I'm leaning towards a bad rad cap because if it were to overpressureize it would send it to the overflow tank. Not come out the cap.
Yesterday I pulled the spark plugs to see how they looked, all normal.

[300k]

Looks like a parts store cap on there now. Get a Sankei cap. Also make sure the ears on the radiator aren't bent. I was having that issue with a janky Ebay 3 core aluminum radiator.

[:)bestgen4runner]

Make sure the radiator is not to tall or mounted to Hi.
I have seen where the cap just slightly contacts the hood causing it to release the pressure.

[Toybrota]

Looks like a parts store cap on there now. Get a Sankei cap. Also make sure the ears on the radiator aren't bent. I was having that issue with a janky Ebay 3 core aluminum radiator.

The cap on there was definitely Japanese. I put the one that came on the radiator and it required a more noticable amount of effort to get it on. I guess tomorrow I will find out!

Tomorrow im also going to hit the 400 mile mark on the rebuild, changing it out fresh with some Pennzoil 5W-30 and a Toyota filter (the larger D3)

Driving this thing daily has really made me miss a decent sound system like I have in the Xtracab. Makes driving so... Boring. Also can't drown out the little sounds


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[emsvitil]

Is the rear leaking seal a Toyota seal?

[Toybrota]

Is the rear leaking seal a Toyota seal?

Yes, I believe it's the new updated Toyota seal design that's double lipped? LCE repair sleeve installed at a machine shop. New rear main seal hardware/gasket

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[emsvitil]

A rear half-moon leak on the head often looks like the rear seal......

[Gnarly4X]

A rear half-moon leak on the head often looks like the rear seal......

Yes it can.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

LCE repair sleeve installed at a machine shop. New rear main seal hardware/gasket

Why was a sleeve used?

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

First off, it's apparent that it has a rear main seal leak ....
I think Toyota installed the steel adapter plate for a reason, prevents a leaky rear main from affecting the clutch components.

Why is it "apparent"?

The plate may slow it down, but will not prevent oil from the rear main seal from getting on the clutch disc if the leak is bad.

At the bottom of the bellhousing there is little 3/8" slot.  Is oil visible and seeping out of that hole?

And secondly, an interesting issue with a leaky rad cap.

This should be an easy fix.  A TVS Stant cap should be more than adequate.  I would not spend $20 on a radiator cap.... but I'm in "frugal mode".

Gnarls.

[Toybrota]

Why is it "apparent"?

The plate may slow it down, but will not prevent oil from the rear main seal from getting on the clutch disc if the leak is bad.

At the bottom of the bellhousing there is little 3/8" slot.  Is oil visible and seeping out of that hole?
This should be an easy fix.  A TVS Stant cap should be more than adequate.  I would not spend $20 on a radiator cap.... but I'm in "frugal mode".

Gnarls.

Hey Gnarls, I figured it "apparent" as it was a fluid leak none the less. However...
Yesterday for the hell of it I marked the clutch master cylinder fluid level with a pen, just a simple diagnosis to tell me if it is that leaking.

The answer? It's the clutch hydraulics.
The oil level hasn't dropped in 2 weeks, I last topped it off after I changed the filter, over 250 miles ago.
The fluid leaking was a golden color, I know the brake fluid in the resivour is close to a darker color, but when the fluid leaks it always seems lighter.
You can see in the picture the fluid level is clearly BELOW the line I drew. I'm gonna have someone mash the pedal while I take a peek to see if I can see it squirting from somewhere. The clutch is noticably slower to retract than my Xtracab, which has a newer slave cylinder.

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[Toybrota]

A few more pictures. The clutch itself isn't affected.
The fluid leaking is also more noticeably darker than before. You can see the small drain hole in the bell housing isn't leaking.

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[OVRAROK]

Time for new clutch master and slave 

[Toybrota]

Well, looks like I was wrong all along. It's both the rear main and the slave cylinder leaking. Awesome!
I'm honestly not worried about it right now. It's something I can stay on top of.
Question is, how do I fix it? Or do I just live with the leak? It's got a seal saver on it, and a Toyota seal. Remove the saver for just the seal?



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[Toybrota]

Tomorrow I will be ordering a new slave and master cylinder for this thing. Since both are leaking.
Interesting, why are the same Aisin parts marked up nearly 100% on the MC store? Unless all the Aisin parts on Amazon are fakes? Hence the cheaper price?


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[Toybrota]

Question about redline Gear oil.

Is MT-90 made anymore? When I bought it on Amazon it came as MT-85. The transmission definitely doesn't shift into second like I think it's supposed to. What I read is that the MT-85 is thinner and therefore more slippery.

Should I just run it? Second doesn't grind, just doesn't shift smoothly. Which it didn't do on the dino gear oil.

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