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Easiest for mine was to attach the motor mounts to the block first. Also, do you have any need of that bad motor mount? Any interest of getting rid of it?For the pilot bearing in the future: grease mixed with newspaper shreddings, fill the back of the bearing with the grease mixture, and tap a thick bolt in it. Hydraulic pressure will push the bearing outSent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
I use bread, pack pilot bearing, I have 3/8 ext, with end cut off , works great, easy clean up
Hey ovrarok,Yeah, I read that guys have had good luck with the bread. I didn't try that. It looks to me that I would have to have an extremely tight fitting shaft in order for the grease or bead to not squish out. Gnarls.
The bread doesn't squeeze out as easy as the grease
Also, do you have any need of that bad motor mount? Any interest of getting rid of it?
I'm just curious, what do you do with a bad motor mount?
I turn it into a bomb proof mount without pulling my mount first. My driver's side mount is pretty toast.. Plus it saves me from having to purchase a brand new mount, employee discount or not..But no worries, I'm sure I'll find something soonSent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
That's a good looking 22RE. I'm rooting for ya.Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
Pics in the engine bay?
Well... it's chained to the cherry picker because I'm getting it ready to drop onto the motor mounts, but it's not balanced level. I chained it the engine so it will not bend the hooks, like it did when I pulled it.As I mentioned, to do it again I would paint the engine block a different color than black, probably a light gray.The bellhousing plate is not orange, it's actually the same color as the rocker cover.Thank you, the video recording suggestion is a good one. I didn't think of that. I'll see how I can get someone to video me prepping and firing the engine for camshaft break-in.I decided to install the stock exhaust header and exhaust piping with cat and muffler. I am very curious to see how much difference in a dyno test when I swap in the DT header and 2.25" exhaust. After its broken in for a couple thousand miles, I want to dyno it. The next day, I want to install the DT header and new exhaust, drive it for a couple days to make sure Mommy ECU is happy, then dyno it again.I still need to buy a new O2 sensor because I don't know much heat they can handle. I'm sure when I over heated the engine, the stock exhaust header was probably glowing red, and of course the O2 sensor is sitting near the bottom of the stock exhaust header.Gnarls.
they can handle the heat pretty well.
Got a question about my alternator. I cleaned it thoroughly with paint thinner, then blew it with compressed air. I noticed when I spin it sitting on the bench it has clicking notchy sound. I don't remember if the bearings are sealed or open. I'm concerned that a bearing(s) are bad. Any comments will be appreciated.Thanks,Gnarls.
on a 22re alternator, both bearings are sealed
They're sealed, but with age the grease turns into blue smoke and disappears.......Haven't done it on a Toyota (did it on my old 64 valiant), but you should be able to replace the bearings yourself (on the 64, the bearings were dry)
If that's the original Toyota alternator keep it and just fix it. I'm on my 4th one from O Reilly's.
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