Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 181125 times)

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #390 on: Oct 09, 2016, 03:59:29 PM »
UPDATE 10-9-2016  Engine dropped into engine bay  :D

For those who may be interested…  :thumbs:

It felt good to finally drop that shiny little turd onto the motor mounts.  :gap:

HOW TO LOWER THE ENGINE ON THE MOTOR MOUNTS
Not having done it before, I learned something. After wrestling with it and the cherry picker for about 30 minutes, I realized it was not going to sit onto the two motor mount studs.  So I removed the driver’s side motor mount (two bolts and nuts) from the frame rail and attached it to the engine mount bracket already torqued down with the stud and nut.  That allowed me to easily maneuver the engine onto the motor mount stud on the passenger side. Once it landed on the stud, I was able wrestle it down onto the frame and get the front holes lined up enough to get the bolt and nut on. Then I had to use my floor jack to raise the back of the engine so I could get the other bolt and nut into the rear holes on the motor mount.  If I had to pull this engine again, I’d to the same thing, remove the two bolts on the driver’s side motor mount from the frame rail.

REPLACED JUST THE DRIVER’S SIDE MOTOR MOUNT
I had a new motor mount so I replaced the driver’s side only, since it’s the one that gets all the pulling torque.

HOME-MADE PILOT BEARING PULLER TOOL
I tried to rent a pilot bearing puller but could find one. I was not about to spend $80 to $200 for pilot bearing puller, so I made my one.  I took a 12mm bolt, longer would been way better.  With my Dremel tool cut off wheel I ground 4 slits in the end, then took Makita 4” grinder and rounded the end.  I packed the hole with wheel bearing grease and with my ball & thingy hammer, I hammered it in until it hit the end of crankshaft.  I hammered on the hex end away from the crankshaft but it was a very shallow angle because the hex head was too close to the bellhousing plate, but within about 5 minutes of tapping all around the hex head, the bearing came out!!!

BALANCED FLYWHEEL AND PRESSURE PLATE
The machine shop balanced the flywheel and the pressure plate together independent of the crankshaft.  You can see the drill marks.  They stamped marked the flywheel and pressure plate so I would get the balance lined up correctly..... but ... I almost forgot they did that!  :smack:

The balance bar I bought from Harbor Freight came in handy.

Now I get see if I can figure out where all those wires go!!!!  :clap:

Gnarls :spin:
« Last Edit: Oct 09, 2016, 04:49:06 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #391 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:05:56 PM »
Easiest for mine was to attach the motor mounts to the block first.
Also, do you have any need of that bad motor mount? Any interest of getting rid of it?

For the pilot bearing in the future: grease mixed with newspaper shreddings, fill the back of the bearing with the grease mixture, and tap a thick bolt in it. Hydraulic pressure will push the bearing out

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1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #392 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:14:40 PM »
Easiest for mine was to attach the motor mounts to the block first.
Also, do you have any need of that bad motor mount? Any interest of getting rid of it?

For the pilot bearing in the future: grease mixed with newspaper shreddings, fill the back of the bearing with the grease mixture, and tap a thick bolt in it. Hydraulic pressure will push the bearing out

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk



I use bread, pack pilot bearing, I have 3/8 ext, with end cut off , works great, easy clean up
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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #393 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:19:07 PM »
Easiest for mine was to attach the motor mounts to the block first.
Also, do you have any need of that bad motor mount? Any interest of getting rid of it?

For the pilot bearing in the future: grease mixed with newspaper shreddings, fill the back of the bearing with the grease mixture, and tap a thick bolt in it. Hydraulic pressure will push the bearing out

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk


Hey excabswap,

The motor mount I replaced on the driver's side is not bad.  Because I happen to have a new spare, I replaced it.  I would normally just keep it as a spare. I had to replace a broken driver's side motor mount on a Moab trip and it was NOT fun!  The one I bought in Moab was NOT a direct fit and I had to lay on my back under my truck and grind holes with rat tail file for a long time!

On the pilot bearing, I tried the grease trick this time.  I tried it the last time I did clutch job on my '85 and it didn't work for me then either.

I have suspicion that the pilot bearing has never been replaced.  It was frozen and not turning, so I think that is why the tip of the input shaft is badly worn.

Gnarls. :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #394 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:22:56 PM »
I use bread, pack pilot bearing, I have 3/8 ext, with end cut off , works great, easy clean up

Hey ovrarok,

Yeah, I read that guys have had good luck with the bread.  I didn't try that.  It looks to me that I would have to have an extremely tight fitting shaft in order for the grease or bead to not squish out. 

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #395 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:26:30 PM »
Hey ovrarok,

Yeah, I read that guys have had good luck with the bread.  I didn't try that.  It looks to me that I would have to have an extremely tight fitting shaft in order for the grease or bead to not squish out. 

Gnarls.

The bread doesn't squeeze out as easy as the grease
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #396 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:31:05 PM »
That's what i newspaper is for I think.. never heard of the bread truck before I'll have to try it sometime

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1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
Projects waiting in my shop: '83 Front Axle, TG Sliders, second tcase, NEW: XD 4.70 gears!

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #397 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:43:47 PM »
The bread doesn't squeeze out as easy as the grease

Yeah, that make sense.  On my 85 clutch job I rented a pilot bearing puller from Autozone and it was piece of ca-ca.  I screwed with it for about 10 minutes.  I finally just made my own out of grade 8 bolt. I couldn't find it or my slide hammer  in all my garage $hait this time!  I just ground a hook in the end and attached it to my dent pulled slide hammer and I popped it out in about 1 minute.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #398 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:45:28 PM »

Also, do you have any need of that bad motor mount? Any interest of getting rid of it?


I'm just curious, what do you do with a bad motor mount?  :dunno:

Gnarls  :inthedark:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #399 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:49:30 PM »
I'm just curious, what do you do with a bad motor mount?  :dunno:
I turn it into a bomb proof mount without pulling my mount first. My driver's side mount is pretty toast..
Plus it saves me from having to purchase a brand new mount, employee discount or not..

But no worries, I'm sure I'll find something soon

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1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
Projects waiting in my shop: '83 Front Axle, TG Sliders, second tcase, NEW: XD 4.70 gears!

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #400 on: Oct 09, 2016, 04:53:41 PM »
I turn it into a bomb proof mount without pulling my mount first. My driver's side mount is pretty toast..
Plus it saves me from having to purchase a brand new mount, employee discount or not..

But no worries, I'm sure I'll find something soon

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How much are they now?  I ordered this one from the Toy dealer around 2001 and it was $70.99 (the label and sticker were still on it) and I had to buy the engine mount bracket with it.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #401 on: Oct 09, 2016, 06:37:45 PM »
That's a good looking 22RE. I'm rooting for ya.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #402 on: Oct 10, 2016, 02:52:02 AM »
That's a good looking 22RE. I'm rooting for ya.

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Hey benjyman,

Thank you.  Well... It looks nice all cleaned and painted.  But..... I hope I have properly rebuilt it to so it fires up and runs like a Toyota 22RE should run - with a few popular upgraded modifications.  :gap:

I should know in a couple weeks.  :thumbs:

Gnarls. :spin:

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #403 on: Oct 11, 2016, 07:47:38 AM »
I have this tin of really thick, black, early 1900s axle grease I found in a shed at our old house.  Works perfect for pushing out pilot bearings.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #404 on: Oct 11, 2016, 07:48:32 AM »
Pics in the engine bay?
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
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"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #405 on: Oct 11, 2016, 09:32:35 AM »
Pics in the engine bay?

Hey H8PVMNT,

Sure, I can take some photos tonight and post them.  I didn't do anything with engine bay except degrease it and spray paint the diff, frame rails, and whatever I could reach from the front of the truck.  If I were to do it again, I'd paint the front end under the engine are a gray color, just to be able to see any oil or fluid leaks.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #406 on: Oct 11, 2016, 03:16:18 PM »
Well... it's chained to the cherry picker because I'm getting it ready to drop onto the motor mounts, but it's not balanced level.  I chained it the engine so it will not bend the hooks, like it did when I pulled it.

As I mentioned, to do it again I would paint the engine block a different color than black, probably a light gray.

The bellhousing plate is not orange, it's actually the same color as the rocker cover.

Thank you, the video recording suggestion is a good one.  I didn't think of that.  I'll see how I can get someone to video me prepping and firing the engine for camshaft break-in.

I decided to install the stock exhaust header and exhaust piping with cat and muffler.  I am very curious to see how much difference in a dyno test when I swap in the DT header and 2.25" exhaust.  After its broken in for a couple thousand miles, I want to dyno it.  The next day, I want to install the DT header and new exhaust, drive it for a couple days to make sure Mommy ECU is happy, then dyno it again.

I still need to buy a new O2 sensor because I don't know much heat they can handle. I'm sure when I over heated the engine, the stock exhaust header was probably glowing red, and of course the O2 sensor is sitting near the bottom of the stock exhaust header.

Gnarls.



they can handle the heat pretty well.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #407 on: Oct 14, 2016, 04:31:34 AM »
they can handle the heat pretty well.

Hey 79coyotefrg,

The zirconium style O2 sensors have an operating range of about 400d F to about 1200d F.  Exhaust gases are typically about 600d F at exhaust manifold when engine is at normal operating temperature.

I just don't know how much hotter the exhaust gases would be at the peak of on over-heated engine that heats up and stalls, and at what temperature the O2 sensor actually fails or is destroyed. :dunno:

Gnarls.  :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #408 on: Oct 14, 2016, 04:36:24 AM »
Pics in the engine bay?

Hey H8PVMNT,

I won't be able to get my engine bay photos posted until Sunday.  This week my "family stuff" took precedent over my "truck stuff".

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #409 on: Oct 18, 2016, 08:04:50 AM »
Got a question about my alternator. I cleaned it thoroughly with paint thinner, then blew it with compressed air.  I noticed when I spin it sitting on the bench it has clicking notchy sound. I don't remember if the bearings are sealed or open. I'm concerned that a bearing(s) are bad.  :dunno:

Any comments will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #410 on: Oct 18, 2016, 08:48:06 AM »
Got a question about my alternator. I cleaned it thoroughly with paint thinner, then blew it with compressed air.  I noticed when I spin it sitting on the bench it has clicking notchy sound. I don't remember if the bearings are sealed or open. I'm concerned that a bearing(s) are bad.  :dunno:

Any comments will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Gnarls.

on a 22re alternator, both bearings are sealed
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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #411 on: Oct 18, 2016, 09:35:09 AM »
on a 22re alternator, both bearings are sealed

Ok, thanks.  So, would it be abnormal for it to make a clicking-clunky sound when I spin the rotator-flux-capacitor shaft?

The last time I cleaned it with paint thinner I don't remember it making any sound when spinning it on the bench.

Thanks,

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #412 on: Oct 18, 2016, 03:13:17 PM »
Maybe you cleaned it too good :).
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #413 on: Oct 18, 2016, 03:21:41 PM »
They're sealed, but with age the grease turns into blue smoke and disappears.......

Haven't done it on a Toyota (did it on my old 64 valiant), but you should be able to replace the bearings yourself (on the 64, the bearings were dry)
Ed
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22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #414 on: Oct 18, 2016, 04:52:39 PM »
They're sealed, but with age the grease turns into blue smoke and disappears.......

Haven't done it on a Toyota (did it on my old 64 valiant), but you should be able to replace the bearings yourself (on the 64, the bearings were dry)

mopar or no car.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #415 on: Oct 19, 2016, 03:19:02 AM »
They're sealed, but with age the grease turns into blue smoke and disappears.......

Haven't done it on a Toyota (did it on my old 64 valiant), but you should be able to replace the bearings yourself (on the 64, the bearings were dry)


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Alternator+Commutator+End+Bearing/01483/C0330.oap?model=Pickup&vi=1277412&year=1986&make=Toyota

Can I assume correctly that there are 2 bearings in this alternator?  If so, that’s about $60, plus my labor.

I can buy a new remanufactured one for $72.00

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Alternator/01468/C0330.oap?model=Pickup&vi=1277412&year=1986&make=Toyota

For $12 is this a “no-brainer”?

Gnarls.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #416 on: Oct 19, 2016, 05:37:59 AM »
Now look up the bearing numbers (I think they're different) and spend about $5 a bearing.........

no-brainer is now changing the bearings yourself......

(change the brushes while you're at it,   I'm guessing $10)
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #417 on: Oct 19, 2016, 06:51:44 AM »
If that's the original Toyota alternator keep it and just fix it. I'm on my 4th one from O Reilly's.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #418 on: Oct 19, 2016, 07:17:53 AM »
If that's the original Toyota alternator keep it and just fix it. I'm on my 4th one from O Reilly's.

Yeah... If I replace it, I will buy a Bosch, and pay the extra price for it.  I've already been down the road with the crapity-life-time-warranty junk.  Saving $50 or $60 on an alternator is just not worth the hassle when one fails... at least for me.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #419 on: Oct 19, 2016, 07:19:15 AM »
If that's the original Toyota alternator keep it and just fix it. I'm on my 4th one from O Reilly's.

I don't know if it's the original... I doubt it.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

 
 
 
 
 

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