Well I got the exhaust fabricated, and found a bunch of little issues I need to work out. The good news is I got to drive it, and all I can say is WOW. This is one torque monster of a little motor. The bad news is I cracked the oil pan putting the engine in, poor weld quality using the welder at work. So I am going to remove the front diff, and pull the pan. Going to sand blast the pan, and fix the crack. Got the steering stabilizer relocated, and ran all the wires for the 02 sensors, but found the rear 02 plug would not work, so I have to order the downstream 02 sensor.
Also have an exhaust leak at the manifold to pipe flange, I had to replace one of the studs and it will not let the pipe seal enough. So I think I will order the newer steel manifold from toyota. Need to swap the oil pressure sender from the 22re, and do the resistor mod for the tach. Need to finish running the wires for the DLC.
But at least I know the engine runs good, and it is worth the effort and money.
Good to hear you got to test drive it, 17141-75080 is the part number for the newer mini header manifold from toyota, it also takes a different heat shield which is 17167-75100, both these are for 01-04 California LEV spec tacoma with 3rz
I have had my 3rz swapped 84 stubby running for bout 2 weeks. Maybe a little more. Bought a M. C vehicle speed sensor and it has worked out great. Am running with no cat and no bank 1 2nd sensor. No codes from that setup. I know if I put a 2nd sensor in it will set a catalyst efficiency code. Live data does see hearted circuit open for that sensor position. At the time of completetion I used a 98 taco pacesetter which rubs the p side frame rail. I will go to a 2000 4runner 3rz exhaust setup next week. Turned out my taco did have w59 which I borrowed the bell from. T100 2wd oil pan went on fine. Nice baffling in that. Toyota F.I.P.G. is good stuff. Taco harness worked out good an uses the same number of wires t o and from the key switch as my 84 carbed. I have encountered misfire code on 2nd cylinder and have changed wires. I think one of the 2 exhaust valvesmay be leaky. I found a new head casting guts and cams setup on engine monster with 3 year parts wwarranty for 5 ana quarter. National head has 3rz rebuilt head for 320 something. However not all the internals are new. Has anybody seen these listings. Tough to believe they can do this stuff this cheap. I know if I pull the head it will cost at least that much locally and he,d probably only replace what was worn an do a valve job. I also found heads online for 900 an up. Input anybody?
I would be wary of aftermarket heads, at my work we have seen a few on different motors out of spec from the manufacturer. Usually on these motors it is only a burnt exhaust valve and a simple valve job will do just fine unless its been overheated I belive the local machine shop we use only charges about 150 to go through a head. Before pulling the head I would recommend running compression, check valve adjustment, and although I see you changed wires, have you checked plugs and noid?
