Topic: SqWADoosh's 85 Runner Build Thread

[OVRAROK]

maybe the arm wasn't laying flat

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

maybe the arm wasn't laying flat

Could be. Who knows.

[mdtrail-toy]

Craziest thing how that happens but I know I've had the same situation. Have a problem, can't reasonably figure it so just take it apart, find nothing , but yet you fixed it   That's one of those things that could drive you nuts...

[megaphoneman]

sorry man...im def retarded when it comes to the English language..
what i am saying is if the ram is still attached to the lines and you are testing this out with the truck running, and your having an issue...then most likely you have a seal inside the ram that is going..it will allow pressure from both sides of the ram to work against each other... the only other thing i could have thought of is you messed with the caps, and trunion bearings...
anyways..if your having the issues still and the ram is connected to the pressure lines and you started the truck to test it, then its the ram...

[ChadStich]

That is the one that I am running. The PSC version has been heavily changed.

With the pump your running now does the steering lag with ram assist?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

With the pump your running now does the steering lag with ram assist?

I haven't had a chance to wheel with it yet but yeah the steering does seem laggy/less easy than I think it should be.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

So when I greased the steering arm male end that goes into the trunion bearing some got on the mating flange of the steering arm as well. Could this have caused it? The grease between the mating flange of the arm and knuckle?

[Rockcrawlintoy]

all the hydro I had driven has always had a little bit of lag esp with quick steering movements.

[OVRAROK]

So when I greased the steering arm male end that goes into the trunion bearing some got on the mating flange of the steering arm as well. Could this have caused it? The grease between the mating flange of the arm and knuckle?

I don't think so, unless there was debris in the grease

[Dingman.]

 You could imagine dirt and such as extra thickness, simliar to adding another shim.  Adding shims decrease preload and make it easier to turn.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Well I was wrong the problem persists. Though it is not as bad as before.

[mudmaster]

Are you sure all the air is bled out?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

try tightening the PS belt some more?   

It is tight.

Are you sure all the air is bled out?

Pretty sure. No bubbles, ram is functioning properly in both directions, and the steering to the left is good.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

Did you ever take off the drag link and eliminate the box as the culprit or the tie rod to narrow down what size it is

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Did you ever take off the drag link and eliminate the box as the culprit or the tie rod to narrow down what size it is

No i plan on doing that in the next couple days. Need to get a pickle fork.

[John Doe]

I used a pickle fork for a good few years until recently using a buddies tie-rod removal (similar to pictured) I will never use a pickle fork for a tie-rod again!

[H8PVMNT]

Did you try just beating on things with a mallet?  Sometimes that really works. 

[H8PVMNT]

Actually in all seriousness, after using the pickle fork and a TRE tool, I have the best success on tie rod ends with a nice hefty brass drift on the slightly loosened castle nut, backed off  like 1/16" or so, then give the drift a good whack with a hammer and the taper unseats itself.  The brass is soft and won't mangle anything. Everybody needs a good brass drift in their trail box.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Actually in all seriousness, after using the pickle fork and a TRE tool, I have the best success on tie rod ends with a nice hefty brass drift on the slightly loosened castle nut, backed off  like 1/16" or so, then give the drift a good whack with a hammer and the taper unseats itself.  The brass is soft and won't mangle anything. Everybody needs a good brass drift in their trail box.

Oh I've got a brass drift alright. That's a good idea. Hey go buy in on the dates in the pnw mini roundup thread, would ya?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

49. Install soft top (Killer Toy Tops)

[Axman]

Now take it through the car wash to test its water permeability! 
I did this once in high school with the old mans soft top on his jeep, let me tell you, zippers are not water proof to jets of water... 

[blackdiamond]

Looks good. How about a picture of the back?  First impressions?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Looks good. How about a picture of the back?  First impressions?

I'm for the most part happy. Definitely some gaps where water is going to get in though. We will see how bad it is this week and next. Its going to get some rain. I'll take a pic of the back tomorrow.

[blackdiamond]

I'm for the most part happy. Definitely some gaps where water is going to get in though. We will see how bad it is this week and next. Its going to get some rain. I'll take a pic of the back tomorrow.

I can see a couple of minor differences.

I would assume the potential leaks are around the rear window?  My Velcro rear window is a pain to put in, but it keeps it weather tight.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

I can see a couple of minor differences.

I would assume the potential leaks are around the rear window?  My Velcro rear window is a pain to put in, but it keeps it weather tight.

No actually that area looks very good. It is around where it mounts to the cab.

[blackdiamond]

No actually that area looks very good. It is around where it mounts to the cab.

Interesting, I have never had any issues so you may be ok. The top has a Velcro strip at the cab that is several inches wide. I have had the Velcro come loose on one of the side panels but I am pretty sure it is a "one of" type of deal. It was just the bottom corner than came loose.

[blackdiamond]

What brake upgrade are you looking at doing?  Did the weight and size of the PBRs have a significant impact on your braking?

When was the last time you rebuilt your front axles?  I would guess that you had completely overhauled everything since you've owned your truck which mean within the past couple years, right?  I know next to nothing about trunion bearings, but I'm assuming that the theory is that something happened while installing the ARP studs or just unlucky timing or the bigger tires and hydro steering pushed it over the edge?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

What brake upgrade are you looking at doing?  Did the weight and size of the PBRs have a significant impact on your braking?

When was the last time you rebuilt your front axles?  I would guess that you had completely overhauled everything since you've owned your truck which mean within the past couple years, right?  I know next to nothing about trunion bearings, but I'm assuming that the theory is that something happened while installing the ARP studs or just unlucky timing or the bigger tires and hydro steering pushed it over the edge?

Yes the knuckles were rebuilt when I did my elockers. Very recently. This is a foul up on my end of not seating the arm in the bearing when doing the ARP studs. I'll find out for sure tonight.

I'm going to do IFS hub swap and 02 tacoma rotors and brakes on the FROR bracket.

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Went and got a ball joint/tie rod separator from Harbor Freight today after work and got into finding out what the hell is going on with my steering. Started by pulling tie rod off right steering arm and jacking up that wheel and checking for resistance in that knuckle when turning wheel both ways. No resistance at all. I then disconnected the Drag link from the pitman arm. Turned wonderfully with no resistance both ways. I then went to the right knuckle. Here are the results:

[Dingman.]

Remove the felt rings off the back, the clip off your birfield (if you have this), and the high steer arm.  You can pull the whole knuckle off the axle ball this way.  Inspect the trunnions and let us know how they look!