Topic: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread

[Toy_Yoda]

Got around to replacing the #1 fuel injector plug and knock sensor plug and installing in the engine harness.  I also got the intake and plenum installed along with a few bits and pieces.  The engine is coming along just need to gather up a few more parts to get the power steering and A/C finished up. 



I'm slowly inching my way closer to getting ready to reinstall the cab on the truck which will be another huge milestone for this build!

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I have continued to battle to stupid little wire pins in the AFM plug with various tools I can find around the garage with no success.  So I finally broke down and got some depinning tools off of amazon, and literally 10 sec later I had the wires removed from the plug.



A couple of reference pictures of the wires off my harness so I can reinstall the wires in the undamaged plug correctly

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Nothing major but finished up the AFM plug and got the undamaged one installed on the wiring harness



Also, installed a new bearing from Yodamasters in the power steering idler pulley. 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I originally wasn't planning to much to the cab, however I changed my mine and got the cab all stripped clean.





I have just a couple more plastic bits to get free, scrap off the original tar matting on the floor vacuum everything and then clean and prep the surfaces.  From there I'm planning to apply some Lizard Skin coating to the floor and fire wall and then a coating of spray in bed liner.  I also ordered my first HVLP paint gun more Eastwood and I'm planning to give a go at my first true paint job.  I'm still debating on color but thinking about a matte olive drab.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Picked up a few parts and got the steering almost finished up.  I have gone back and forth on a new steering box as I was on my second leaking junkyard box.  In the end I decided to give TG's new power flow box a try.  I ordered it off Summit Racing and literally had the part less than 24 hours after clicking order.  Once I had it in hand I got it installed.  One of the first bits of welding/fab work I did on the truck was installing the steering box reinforcement plates.  I didn't do it the best way possible and I would do it a little different if I every have the chance to do it again.  The final result is the box is as far forward as possible but I had to cut a little bit out of the cab mount to make it fit.  Additionally, I had to ream the holes in the box open a touch to bet the bolts through. 

The box is the earlier 86-88' style so I'll probably have to modify the he steering shaft a bit, but this was already gonna happen from moving the box forward like I did.  It all set up for hydro assist so I can easily go that route later on down the road.


You can see where I had to cut into the cab mount a bit to get it installed.  I welded little plates back in the void so it should be solid enough.  I'm also trying to figure out how much of the cab I'll have to cut out to clear the box as well.


Either way in the end the box got installed and it looks like I have plenty of clearance with the pitman arm.



Finally, got a few more things in the mail as I'm starting to get ready for my first paint job.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

No real update just a few more parts coming in.  I have also decided to go ahead and install hydro assist on the rig so I'm planning to use PSC for those parts as well.

[fireitup]

I have just a couple more plastic bits to get free, scrap off the original tar matting on the floor vacuum everything and then clean and prep the surfaces.  From there I'm planning to apply some Lizard Skin coating to the floor and fire wall and then a coating of spray in bed liner.  I also ordered my first HVLP paint gun more Eastwood and I'm planning to give a go at my first true paint job.  I'm still debating on color but thinking about a matte olive drab.

Did this on my truck and that damn tar matting took FOREVER to get off.  Had a pneumatic scraper air tool and it still was a pain. Also did lizard skin on the cab floor interior and it definitely helped with the heat.  Drove it for a while with the cab floor bare in summer (also in Houston) and man was it HOT!

**Edit** Beautiful build BTW!

[fireitup]

Thanks again THK Matt, I got the new plug in the mail the other day, perfect match

Awesome assist!

If for some reason THK Matt is asleep next time, i have found that the Toyota parts overstock website has an incredibly extensive online parts lookup tool.

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/

They have exploded assembly diagrams that you can save off as well for future reference.

[THK Matt]

I think i speak for the majority of the forum, when I say this build is one we all can't wait to see finished. flawless job bud!

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I think i speak for the majority of the forum, when I say this build is one we all can't wait to see finished. flawless job bud!

Thanks for that Matt, its been a long build so far and nobody wants to see it finished more than I!  While she keeps getting closer I also keep finding more things to work on (see cab!).

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I've been planning to upgrade to a big bore throttle body for a while I've been putting off pulling the trigger on one.  Well, I saw LCE's new throttle body and made an impulse purchase...

A few days later this showed up!


I then got the auxiliary air valve, throttle linkage and TPS switched over and bolted the new bling to the engine. 


Still need to adjust the TPS as per the FSM and find a new/used dash pot (the plastic bellows on mine is shot and has fallen off).

I almost added the LCE's throttle body spacer (looks cool !?!?) to the list but in the end decided it really wasn't a worth while add-on.   

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Made my first attempt at properly adjusting the TPS yesterday.

I used 4 crawlers write up along with LCE write up which are both the same



I ended up with these numbers:

Test 1: 0.75k
Test 2: 0.02K
Test 3: Open/Infinite
Test 4: 4.0K
Test 5: 6.0K

Test 2 and 3 were touchy to adjust but everything looks to be to spec now.  I never could get test #2 to much higher than .02-.03k, but it is greater than 0.

[redneckcustoms13]

They are some finicky little fellers. One more reason I absolutely hate a 22re. You're in range so she should be just fine. 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I started to build my first custom exhaust while slowly working on stripping/cleaning up the cab in prep for painting it. 

I pickup up a new SS muffler, high flow cat and a flex joint along with some O2 sensor bungs, aluminized tubing from summit racing and some aluminized ball joints I found on ebay.  All sized for 2 1/4".

The ball joints got me started from the NWOR header and from there I welded up the flex joint and (2) O2 bungs (1 for after market gauge and 1 for factory toyota sensor).

I struggled for a little bit on how to get the piping to line up with the original factory hanger setup.  I decided to order an additional ball joint and use this to give me the flexibility to line the exhaust up.  So far it looks like its going to work.





After getting the cat bolted into place I used a couple of 45 degree bends to raise the exhaust and get the muffler mocked into place.



I'm still figuring out the last piece of exhaust coming out of the muffler.  Right now I have a 45 degree bend coming out where I was planning to add a down turn piece.  As of right now the pipe is a bit close to the shock for my liking.  I can trim a bit of the tubing to gain a little bit more clearance or I could just add a simple down turn piece coming right out of the muffler.



Once I have it all welded up I plan to apply some kind of high temp paint and possibly Eastwoods internal exhaust coating as well.

[Gnarly4X]

Are those ball joints going to leak? 

Gnarls. 

[redneckcustoms13]

I have never witnessed one that didnt. I cut them off and ran regular flanges on a set of headers I had on a gm vehicle.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Are those ball joints going to leak? 

Gnarls. 

Well I only have personal experience with the original ball joint on the NWOR header and it never leaked over the 10 or so years its been on the truck.  That said I have read a bit of pros and cons about ball joints in general and more often than not people claim they leak.  The ebay ball joints I picked up seem to be decent quality and the joint surfaces look like they mesh up well together.  My plan for this exhaust is to put a smear of permatex copper on the sealing surfaces prior to final install.  Hopefully that will help prevent any minor leaks that may or may not have developed over time.  In the end if they still leak I'll look at something different for that section of the exhaust but that is an issue I'll deal with later if I need to.   

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Just a minor update... 

Finally got the exhaust all mocked up and welded up.  After welding everything up I roughed up the aluminized exhaust tubing and applied a couple coats of Eastwoods exhaust paint and internal exhaust coating.

Since the truck isn't gonna be driving any time real soon I picked up small oven used for powder coating to cure the exhaust paint.  There is not set curing temp and time in the instructions so I let it cure @ 450 degrees for about 45min.  Actual instructions just say to run at temp for 20min and good to go.   



Now that I have this little powder coating oven I need to try out Eastwoods powder coating kit and maybe try coating a few parts. 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Got around to finishing up the Exhaust.







I did end up applying a smear of copper RTV on the ball joint flanges and the muffler joints.  I feel like the ball joints will seal up pretty well, they look nice a tight all the way around.  I'll see how everything seals up once I finally get the truck fired up someday, but for now I'm relatively pleased with how it turned out. 

I only have a few more things I'd like to get finished up then I think it will be time to put the cab back on the truck.  I'm planning to do the painting and what not on the cab once its back on the truck since I still need to cut out a section of the tunnel for the dual tcase among some other things.  I still have a long way to go but I feel like its starting to become a truck again!

[joeyf]

Exhaust came out looking great. Any thought on triple sticking the duals so you don’t have to cut up the floor.

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

I like how clean the frame is

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Need help with a measurement.  If you have been fallowing my build you know I ran the new fuel lines on top of the frame. 



One of the things I failed to check early on was the clearance between the cab and the top of the frame.  I've been inspecting the underside of the cab recently and it looks like there is really only one spot where clearance is likely an issue.

I'm hoping that someone out there has a 94ish 4x4 (short bed) cab sitting on a frame and would be willing to look and make a couple of clearance measurements for me along the passenger side of the truck.  I really need to know if there is any point along the frame where clearance is less than ~1/2".   Any pictures would be great as well.  Thanks in advance!

[redneckcustoms13]

Little more detail of what you want. I have a 92 I can measure.

[300k]

Little more detail of what you want. I have a 92 I can measure.

I really need to know if there is any point along the frame where clearance is less than ~1/2".   Any pictures would be great as well.

the measurements will be different depending on how old the body mounts are

[:)bestgen4runner]

small body lift? easy answer 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Little more detail of what you want. I have a 92 I can measure.

Basically I need to determine if there is any point between the cab and frame (passenger side) where I might need to "massage" the cab for a bit more clearance.  The fuel lines require ~3/4" clearance so they don't get pinched by the cab once I set it back down on the frame.  I think there is enough clearance expect possibly in one spot just a bit forward of the rear body mount.  I can take a picture if that would help.  Thanks.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

small body lift? easy answer 

I do have a 1/2" body lift that is my backup plan.  If any thing I can install it and check for clearance and then remove it if I possible. 

It would be difficult to "massage" a little extra clearance with the cab once it is back on the frame so I'm hoping for some initial measurements first.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

So it looks like there are a couple of sections under the cab that will be close for clearance with the fuel lines.  My current plan will be to install the the 1/2" body lift I found on ebay and then check for clearance issues.  If I can remove the body lift right away I will other wise I'll leave it for now and plan to modify the cab/ reroute the lines as a future project. 

Another question for everyone, I'm trying to determine if I should coat the bottom of the cab with something while I have it off but I can't seem to find a good product.  I've heard that using a bed liner of sorts could be a fire hazard with the exhaust so I've kinda thrown that option away.  Anyone have a good underside coating they have used/recommend? 

[redneckcustoms13]

I didnt see anywhere thet was near 1/2" or less of clearance on mine. I coated mine with spray in bedliner. No issues to speak of.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Thanks, hopefully everything will clear and I can just remove the 1/2" body lift.  I looked at the idea of using bed liner again and seems like a decent amount of folks have taken the route.  I'm currently rethinking the idea along with using some extra "stick on" style heat shields near where the header tubes and exhaust run.  My feet always got pretty toasty and I'm want to limit the amount of heat coming up from the floor.