Author Topic: 22RE is toast.....on the way to a rebuild! Pg. 2 for the start of the progress!!  (Read 25091 times)

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emsvitil

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The motor mount is a poly mount that's really for a chevy transmission......


Wouldn't the stock rubber chevy transmission mount work?

The only thing to worry about is if the stock rubber transmission mount interlocks.........

 
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4Runner_guy [OP]

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Ok, sounds like your on to a solution. The passenger side for my mounts was in fair condition with no signs of cracking, the driver side is shot. So would it be wise to swap the OEM rubber mount from the passenger side to driver side and use the poly on the passenger side, or does it not make a difference in which side it goes on? I wouldn't mind running one side poly and the other stock as long as it takes care of the irritating vibration!!

2manytoys

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There are plenty of posts showing mods to the stock mounts to keep from ripping them apart. Simple as putting a bolt through it. Or welding a piece of chain to limit travel.

Poly mounts suck for a daily driver. Way too much vibration for me. They are solid though.
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tgmaul88

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i agree on the welded chain method, quick easy and limits torque,  I had a 1964 econline that had this nasty problem tearing the drivers side mount, because of the torque the passenger side never failed,  mount after mount, I fianlly did the weld something to it trick never broke again,  but those motor mounts are 10 brand new so i could go threw a few of them before getting mad

4Runner_guy [OP]

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Slapped back the OEM stock mount to the driver side and man, what a difference!! No more annoying vibrations! Im still using the poly bushing on the passenger side still, which has a very small unnoticeable noise but I can deal with that.. Overall, I'm very much happier with this setup and I know that things will not fall apart of fall off due to the mount.
The only irritating thing now with the rebuilt engine is new oil leaks...few from the timing cover, typical, front main seal (already bought a new one from the dealer from a 94 22RE), and also from the oil filter location. The oil filter location is the one that leaks the most. Do any of you guys know what the bolt located on the block where the oil filter screws onto is called? i cant seem to find the torque specs on what to torque it down to cause its leaking there consistently.
Not my picture, just using as a reference:

Cheesemaker

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The knock sensor or the oil pressure sensor?  I just used teflon tape on the threads for mine.  And just tightened up till snug. 
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4Runner_guy [OP]

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No, neither one. The oil filter thread that is screwed onto the block as you see pictured above. The oil filter screws on that bolt/thread. I guess I can teflon tape that part too and tighten it up so that it doesnt leak.

Cheesemaker

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How do you know its leaking if you have the oil filter on?   :headscratch:
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

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4Runner_guy [OP]

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The leak comes directly from that location. I cleaned it and ran the truck and it's the only obvious spot, nothing dripping above it.

Cheesemaker

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Could it be a bad gasket on the oil filter?  I've had many leak on me.
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

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rubiconrunnerneville

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if you think it leaking between the threads on the oil filter mounting bolt take a filter and thread it on slowly after you get a few threads down try and move it up and down left and right(as you completely turn it on) if it moves too much you know the threads are shot. but like cheesemaker said its more than likely going to be the rubber ring on the surface of the filter or a bur or ruff spot on the machined surface where the filter seals on the block. emery cloth will clean up any burs that might be there. :twocents:
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4Runner_guy [OP]

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I'll take a look at those ideas you guys have suggested and go from there. Could be one or the other or even both. Thx a bunch.

 
 
 
 
 

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