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Do you have it running yet and if so, can you tell any difference in power? I'm kinda curious witch cam you ended up using. Hopefully your stock cam, I think a stage 2 efi cam would suck for a 4X. I have one in my 2X and it's great, but the stage 1 would be nice for a little extra grunt for your rig, especially with those big tires.
Well I'm glad to hear you're puttin' efi on it cause that cam will cause thos vaccume issues. You don't have that much of a problem with that on the efi setup for some reason. Oh, here's a pointer for when you do go efi: restrict the egr passage into the intake. It helps to smooth out the idle with that cam. I did it by making my own gasket out of a coke can and just making the hole in the center much smaller than the hole in the factory egr gasket. -and I'm sure you've already heard of the AFM trick.
whats that shiny spot on your piston?? scar??
Hey thanks for the tip! I will probably do that.And yes Ive heard of the AFM trick
...why buy when you can build?
Some random wheelin pics
Hey lilbuddy, I just read the entire thread. Wow! you have done a lot to your truck! I had read bits and pieces of the thread, but never the whole thing.Umm, you have broken a lot of stuff too
ya our trucks were about even until he passed me up big time when he got his duals in. he beat me to the punch on that. im one up on you with the locker though chris!
when are you gonna put that damn efi on?
Sorry Littlebuddy, I have to momentarily jack this thread for the edumacation of the newbies on here.First of all, this efi trick won't fix your misfire problem. It will however richen up your A/F mixture a bit and should cure that hesitation and take off. It's not as simple as "popping off " the black plastic cap though. First you must cut the silicone out from around the black plastic cap with an exacto knife and then very carefully pry up on the cap with a couple pocket screwdrivers to you don't brake it. To adjust it, look for the clock wheel at the bottom and mark the tooth where the little spring type holder is holding it in position. Start the engine and let it warm up and drop down to base idle. While holding the clock gear from moving, pry out on it's holder and let it loosen up 1-3 teeth (until you notice the idle change very slightly). Clean up the old sylicone that is left and spray down the internal electronics in the AFM and blow dry. Apply a little bead of clear cylicone around the cap and push it back in place. Next time you have to smog it, you might want to move the clock spring back to the original position - that is why you marked it. Remember, try to be as stealth as you can cause a smog guy might suspect something being tinkered with.If you really want a highly modified AFM and have bigger injectors, high flow fuel pump, high flow head, high compression motor - I have a solution that appears stock and will fool every smog guy out there if executed correctly.
Wow Chris, did you win the Chico Lottery or something?
Hey lilbuddy, your rig is looking good, hopefully this summer we'll meet 8)
accidentally
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