Author Topic: SAS question  (Read 2877 times)

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dirtybird

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SAS question
« on: Nov 25, 2011, 05:40:42 PM »
Does anybody know what all pro 5" springs measure eye to eye? I'm doing SAS swap and my hi steer is binding.  Looks to be off 3" !!!! Which is ridiculous and can't figure out why.  Any help would be appreciated

Sparkplug

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #1 on: Nov 25, 2011, 06:34:18 PM »
off 3 inches? off what? how is it binding?
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

Cheesemaker

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #2 on: Nov 25, 2011, 08:36:19 PM »
Pictures would be awesome.   :thumbs:
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

dirtybird [OP]

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #3 on: Nov 26, 2011, 07:42:02 AM »
When everything is together all shackle angles and everything look good. But hy steer tie rod is sitting under drag link so when driver side goes on it's up travel they hit each other and when I measure from front spring hanger bolt hole to end of pitman arm and then to driver side hy steer arm the hy steer arm is 3" closer than the pitman arm!  The front spring hanger is just forward of flush maybe 3/16" to 1/4". I don't see where it's possible to be off so much unless all pro gave me the wrong springs? If it's even possible?  Sorry I only know how to email pics. Does anybody know as the spring goes up how far does it go back? Any help would be really appreciated.  Dying to get this done!!!

blumagoo

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #4 on: Nov 26, 2011, 10:11:02 AM »
You might need to move the steering box forward.
Some springs have different distance from the front eye to center pin in order to move the axle forward for greater clearance at the rear of the wheel well.
The tie rod and drag link need to be clear of each other or this will cause catastrophic failure.
There are many different situations to be encountered during the build up of a front suspension and a solid axle swap is not meant to be a bolt on kit.
Look at some others swaps and look at there pictures to get e feel of what's going wrong.

dirtybird [OP]

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #5 on: Nov 26, 2011, 10:27:59 AM »
Thanks for the reply that is what's going on and that's what I'm trying to find out but all pro isn't open till Monday.  I want to know if they gave me too short of springs(I hope)then that will be the answer and I'm good. But if not there is still something terribly wrong and I can't figure it out! I've never heard of any ones being off that much also haven't heard of moving steering box unless you purposely wanted to move the axle forward more than the kit was set up for

RubberTramp

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #6 on: Nov 26, 2011, 10:42:00 AM »
Here are picture of spring type from Allpro and shackle angle and front spring hanger from Dirtybirds rig.










« Last Edit: Nov 26, 2011, 10:54:07 AM by RubberTramp »

Black Runner

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #7 on: Nov 26, 2011, 10:51:24 AM »
Might be a dumb  :confused: but are the springs backwards?

RubberTramp

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #8 on: Nov 26, 2011, 10:56:19 AM »
Double checked but springs look right. Thanks!

Leafs look short for reason....is it as easy as moving the front spring hanger back?

Black Runner

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #9 on: Nov 26, 2011, 11:14:40 AM »
I have a set of 4inch All-Pros I can measure if it helps any?

RubberTramp

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #10 on: Nov 26, 2011, 11:21:47 AM »
appreciated! measurements would be good!

86bobbedtoy

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #11 on: Nov 26, 2011, 11:23:23 AM »
move your steering box forward, simple!

86bobbedtoy

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #12 on: Nov 26, 2011, 11:25:15 AM »
and by the look of the pics there is no weight on the f axle,
your axle will move back a little when theres weight on it

Peterbuilt84

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #13 on: Nov 26, 2011, 11:26:44 AM »
move your steering box forward, simple!

This

Black Runner

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #14 on: Nov 26, 2011, 11:48:50 AM »
My 4 inchers measure 43" eye to eye. From the center pin out to center of eyes measure 21 1/4 and 24 1/4
These springs are uninstalled so there is no weight on them when measured.

4-lo

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #15 on: Nov 26, 2011, 12:02:48 PM »
by looking at the pic it looks like the truck is on stands. is it on the ground or is it on stands?

4-lo

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #16 on: Nov 26, 2011, 12:06:38 PM »
My 4 inchers measure 43" eye to eye. From the center pin out to center of eyes measure 21 1/4 and 24 1/4
These springs are uninstalled so there is no weight on them when measured.

43 Sounds rite.  both marlin and all pro springs centerpin sits back 1in.

4-lo

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #17 on: Nov 26, 2011, 12:12:48 PM »
looks rite. Just drop it and put some weigh in the front. Mine is the same when the truck is on stands.

RubberTramp

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #18 on: Nov 26, 2011, 01:00:05 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions guys! I will relay the message.

Thank you Black Runner for the measurements!

RubberTramp

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #19 on: Nov 26, 2011, 01:09:43 PM »
ok springs measure the same. it isnt on stands the motor is out of it now. that isnt the problem. i put 600lbs of weight in the engine compartment and got it to compress and move back about 3/8". my bad on original measurements im only off about an 1 1/2" not 3". so i think im going to try and back up the front hanger as i have it out about 1/4" past flush and offset towards the front another 1/4".if that makes any sense. as far as moving the steering box i really dont want to get into that and from what i understand i shouldnt have too. thanks for all the replys and if you think of anything else by all means let me know

86bobbedtoy

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #20 on: Nov 26, 2011, 01:15:57 PM »
your right you shouldnt have to,
but most people like there front axle a little forward,
its an easy job, and would be worth it in the end

RubberTramp

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #21 on: Nov 26, 2011, 01:24:11 PM »
could you tell me whats involved?  looks pretty tuff to me. there isnt any room . it looks to be right at the far most front. what do you do about steering angles? also how bout the steering shaft from the steering wheel? is there enough in it to slide or do i need to cut and weld?

Sparkplug

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #22 on: Nov 26, 2011, 02:44:59 PM »
if thats the shakle angle with just missing the motor, something is definitely wrong
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

4-lo

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #23 on: Nov 26, 2011, 03:59:34 PM »
I leave it and move the gear box. When the tire flex back youll clear more on the fire wall.

4-lo

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #24 on: Nov 26, 2011, 04:06:09 PM »
It Should be rite motor plus tranny and t case should set your shackle rite at 90.

dirtybird [OP]

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #25 on: Nov 26, 2011, 04:36:46 PM »
Ok for those that say move the box forward I'm starting to like the idea but I'm not getting any how tos or pics?   Other than it's worth it in the end and it's easy.what exactly is involved because I know what's involved in moving the hanger and shackles back just trying to weigh my options

Peterbuilt84

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #26 on: Nov 26, 2011, 04:48:55 PM »
Your going to need a ifs box mounting kit and maybe a new pitman arm. Check the builds or search and you should find all the info you need. This is how far forward I moved mine, I had to hack the core support pretty good though.


Sparkplug

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #27 on: Nov 26, 2011, 04:58:31 PM »
any mount kit you buy is gonna need the very front of it trimmed off. You will need to either pound the :pokinit: out of the area next to the radiator where the box will set, but even then, will probably end up cutting a section out in the shape of the box. I push it all the way forward, till it hits the body mount, and rotate it so that it sits flat, and not angled. This is going to require lengthening the steerng shaft, and a litte reworking of the steering lines to the box itself. You just drill the first hole, set the plate on with a bolt in it, roate it level, punch in a mark where bottom hole should go when level, step drill it till fits, weld in tubes and plate, and top will line itself up.


Mkae sure before you drill the 2nd hole that it will clear the tie rod end nut if you use a flat arm, c clamps help alot.
« Last Edit: Nov 26, 2011, 05:23:29 PM by Sparkplug »
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

dirtybird [OP]

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #28 on: Nov 26, 2011, 05:28:43 PM »
Thanks guys for the info sounds a little crazier than I thought. Talking about ifs mounting kit. Can't you just move the box straight forward sleeve the holes you drill and call it a day? Just bought marlin pitman arm and would kinda like to use it. How much can you move the box forward without lengthening the steering shaft? Or should I say how much slip is left in the stock steering before you need to add sleeve or spacer?

Sparkplug

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Re: SAS question
« Reply #29 on: Nov 26, 2011, 06:11:08 PM »
not much, maybe a inch safely
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

 
 
 
 
 

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