1980 Daily Driver/ Mild crawler build

[OldGold3VZE]

The height from the base of the throttle body to the top of the mixer, including adapter is about 6.75"-7", and the filter just barely sits above the top of the mixer, but that could be relocated with a hose if need be.

Swapped in a stock driveshaft from my 4runner since this truck does not need .250" wall shaft, and am building a shaft for the 4runner now. 

I want more power out of this thing, and I plan on achieving that with alloy wheels and smaller, probably 31" tires, and a 20r hybrid engine.  I think I can get into the 160 hp range pretty easily considering everything else that's been done to the engine.  Maybe not quite that high with the propane, but I should feel more power.  A turbo was my other option, but I think the 20/22r hybrid should give me some noticeable power and not cost too much to build.

[OldGold3VZE]

Had this tach sitting around for a while, so I installed it.  I have been shifting off of how the truck vibrated due to polly motor mounts, and I think I have been shifting a bit early, and loosing power.  The tach is all scraped up looking because I tried installing it in another gauge cluster, and had to grind it down to fit.





Propane cold idle, 600 rpm.



Also, cleaned up my huge shop.

[Zs Confederate Toy]

I have the same tach in my 87, even mounted up in the same spot haha

[Tankard]

Thanks for the measurement.

5.29 and 31"s feels like power

[OldGold3VZE]

Thanks for the measurement.

5.29 and 31"s feels like power

Yeah, I know, I just have very limited gear setup knowledge, and already need to set up a 5.29 on my 4runner.  31s are in the works either way.

[Toy-Cra-Ze]

What did you do for your springs both front and rear on your truck?? 

[TacoRunner]

Really nice build up. 

[OldGold3VZE]

What did you do for your springs both front and rear on your truck?? 

Rear springs at all 4 corners, 6 pack in the front using the mains from a 1st gen 4x4, rears are stock rears from 1st gen with 6" shackles.

Really nice build up. 

Thanks

[Toy-Cra-Ze]

Thanks! Your truck is pretty cool!! What size tires are you running?

[OldGold3VZE]

Really worn out 34 x 10.50 r17.  I'll be taking a leaf out of the front pack to level it out, and switching to 31" all terrains, though.  It's a DD.

[Toy-Cra-Ze]

Nice, I cant wait to see it with the 31's im wanting to lift my truck but dont wanna go any bigger than 33s but i wouldnt mind even just keeping 31s on it! I cant decide whether to go full all pro SAS kit, or get the trail gear SAS kit (only because you can get the HD springs from them and my truck we be used for my hunting rig/DD/ Weekend trail rig not much rock crawling stuff) or go RUF's with f-150 in the rear. Or i like your idea with rears all the way around. I just cant decide!!

[OldGold3VZE]

Rears are great to work with at all 4 corners.  Less axle wrap then the chevy 63s, or F-150s, and if you use the later model (89-95) then they are longer then the early model stuff, giving a better shackle angle.   The springs that come in all the kits seem to yield pretty big lift, which is not what I wanted with this build.

[hilux-1983]

 

[Toy-Cra-Ze]

Yeah i dont want that either. I cant decide between old man emu or know i really like the idea of all rears!! Would you mind posting some better up close pictures of your front leaf pack? Thanks! 

[OldGold3VZE]

Yeah i dont want that either. I cant decide between old man emu or know i really like the idea of all rears!! Would you mind posting some better up close pictures of your front leaf pack? Thanks! 

Took  me a few days to find time, but here are some pics of my front springs after a few months and a few wheeling trips.  The main leaves (the ones with the eyelets and wraps) are from a 1st gen 4x4, along with the first non-wrapped leaf, then the other 3 are just random stock rear leaves from my 88 4runner.  I also made some easy anti-splay straps that still allow for plenty of down-travel.  Welded em right to the leaves.

[Toy-Cra-Ze]

Thanksfor posting pictures!

[OldGold3VZE]

A friend from work just moved into a new house that is on 7.5 acres in the mountains, and has a 4 mile washboard road to get to while climbing 2,000 ft.  Needless to say, I have already made my first shock valving changes and I am anxious to get back up there for some high speed chatter bump testing.  I'll post up the results here in a bit.

Current compression valving is basically the same stack that I had in there, only I separated the main pyramid stack (high speed) from the piston face with a .950" x .010" separator shim and a 1.620" x .008" face shim.  This type of stack should give much improved small/chatter bump performance, while still maintaining a firm, controlled ride.  As for gas, they were both right at 175psi on my 300 psi mountain bike shock pump.  Lower than I thought they were at, but I ended up sticking with this pressure, trying to only change 1 thing at a time for a more accurate evaluation of the changes I'm trying.  This is just the 1st attempt at some different valving ideas I've been reading about lately.   I'm pretty sure these dampers will be coming apart all summer. 

[OldGold3VZE]

Well, the front damper re-valve yielded such good results I now have to address the rear end.  I thought I would be OK with the stock springs, but they are really rough riding, and sag a lot.  Plus, I've wanted to link the rear of my 4runner, so I pulled the Chevy 63s from the runner, and will be installing them under the red truck tomorrow.



Also, here is how I installed the front dampers after charging them with 175 psi.  Strap em down!

[zebracrawler]

 nice build go fast dd crawler clean truck.

[OldGold3VZE]

nice build go fast dd crawler clean truck.

Yep, that's what I was shooting for.  I'm trying to add a little pre runner style into this one.  I'm resisting putting a cage in it cause once that happens it'll just become another beat up crawler.

Springs all painted and 3.5" square tube for hangers.

[86yoter]

nice looks good looks i just put the 63 in the back of my yota and wow comfy ride. i just need to put my shocks mounted. keep it up

[OldGold3VZE]

Got the springs all mounted up last night.  Need a slightly longer drive shaft now.  It was borderline before anyway.  I went 11" forward on the front mounts and 3" back on the shackle mount.  Shackles are at about 47 degrees with basically no weight, so that might be a little on the slack side, but I wanted to keep the truck low since it is only going to see 33" tires.  I also think I need some 10" dampers instead of the 12" ones that I put on the truck since I only have 3" of shaft showing.  Oh well.  Rides real nice.

[Slolyfe]

Nice build bro. Hadn't seen it before. Pretty sure I am going to copy your rear shock mounting.

[86yoter]

ya the shock mount placement in the rear is nice.

[OldGold3VZE]

Parents are coming to town so I threw a steering damper on in case then need to drive the truck around.  I'll get around to hydro assist later.



On my way to go pick up some 3/8" x 2" strp to mke 7" shackles for the rear.

[86yoter]

hey bro i heard when mounting the 63s you go 11" forward and from center of eye to the shackle hanger is 61 1/2" or 62" for more street. just passing  some info along.

[OldGold3VZE]

hey bro i heard when mounting the 63s you go 11" forward and from center of eye to the shackle hanger is 61 1/2" or 62" for more street. just passing  some info along.

Thanks man, yeah these are the same springs that I have installed on every rock crawler I've ever built.  I actually go 59.5"-60" and run a longer shackle.  It keeps the springs soft and really flexy, and I off set that with stiffer shock valving and good bump stops.  I don't carry much weight, and I like the soft ride.  Springs are all done, just need to cut my shackles, currently running an old set of 6" shackles.

[Sal04taco]

nice DD!!  on the paint if you wanted to even out the texture just use a 2000grit wet sandpaper and sand it by hand no block. just keep sanding it till it looks flat then buff at slow rpm so u don't burn through. This wont  remove all the peal but it will make it look even kinda like factory paint. 

[OldGold3VZE]

nice DD!!  on the paint if you wanted to even out the texture just use a 2000grit wet sandpaper and sand it by hand no block. just keep sanding it till it looks flat then buff at slow rpm so u don't burn through. This wont  remove all the peal but it will make it look even kinda like factory paint. 

Thanks for the info.  I have thought about sanding, but I seem to always find other projects to get into that are less cosmetic.  Maybe that will be a winter project, after I throw another coat on, haha. 

[Sal04taco]

Yup. If you have any questions on paint or body work hit me up I have my own shop n bin doin it for about 12 years . Hopfully ill have my own rig soon n can start doin more than just restoration, custom paint and ins. Work. any ay your truck look badass and ill be folowin the build.