Author Topic: LSPV elimination (Read 12755 times)

yjay · « **on:** Apr 08, 2011, 05:35:43 AM »

Searched this and didn't really find what I was looking for. Wanting opinions from those that have done it and what they think without an aftermarket proportioning valve. Also from those who used a prop. valve, the model and maybe part number of the unit they used. Thinking about doing this to my 4Runner on 35's that's daily driven and we get lots of snow.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #1 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 05:59:19 AM »

I have done it. I run chevy rear disks. I would not go back (I rarely adjust it, except when I am fully loaded), the valve is mounted in the cab. I used SUM-G3905.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #2 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 06:04:52 AM »

Not elimination of it but I cut the arm off to about an inch long then tie-wrap it in the full open position, pretty much eliminates it.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #3 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 10:15:05 AM »

just took it out ran 1 line to rear and put a plugd bung in the other one up front 33's dd lots of snow in winter not much problems i have t100 rotors and calipers up front on ifs tho not sure if that helps or not

yjay · « **Reply #4 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 06:37:18 PM »

Quote from: 4runnerchevy on Apr 08, 2011, 05:59:19 AM

I have done it. I run chevy rear disks. I would not go back (I rarely adjust it, except when I am fully loaded), the valve is mounted in the cab. I used SUM-G3905.

I did the same thing as Rocksurfer but I definitely don't have as much rear brake as I would like.
I like that prop valve 4runnerchevy. Pretty reasonable. What did you do with the unused line?

brainlessfool · « **Reply #5 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 07:07:57 PM »

I just took mine off.

Bigredwelder · « **Reply #6 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 07:22:34 PM »

I just used an adjustable proportioning valve that summit sells (same as 4runnerchevy) and eliminated the return line. Works great and is easy to adjust the brake bias. I would have just eliminated the LSPV if I was planning on staying with drums as it worked just fine "full open" but I am planning on going to discs and had heard that caused the rears to lock up before the fronts.

GONZO97 · « **Reply #7 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 07:46:49 PM »

Eliminated mine completely just ran like a t sort of mount and wa la all gone, i cant even telll the difference

86rustbucket · « **Reply #8 on:** Apr 08, 2011, 07:51:04 PM »

Quote from: GONZO97 on Apr 08, 2011, 07:46:49 PM

Eliminated mine completely just ran like a t sort of mount and wa la all gone, i cant even telll the difference

me too I couldnt feel a difference

sabatoa1 · « **Reply #9 on:** Apr 11, 2011, 06:37:04 AM »

I took and pluged the T that goes to the LSPV and then used the Adjustable valve found on the first gen toyota truck. You put the valve right next to your MC, you can even use the first gen mount. I have the fj80 rotors and ifs calipers, and after I did that conversion my brakes sucked. My brakes work great now after taking out all that crap, I think that this is the cheepest and easiest way to do this swap.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #10 on:** Apr 11, 2011, 07:00:58 AM »

Quote from: yjay on Apr 08, 2011, 06:37:18 PM

I did the same thing as Rocksurfer but I definitely don't have as much rear brake as I would like.
I like that prop valve 4runnerchevy. Pretty reasonable. What did you do with the unused line?

I plugged it at the T, removed the unused line and valve. I ended up re-plumbing my line from the MC to the rear. My prop valve is in-between my seats with my line lock. I also run a residual valve to keep a little pressure in my massive rear Chevy brakes

yjay · « **Reply #11 on:** Apr 11, 2011, 05:43:27 PM »

Where does the unused line go?

chromewontgetyouhome · « **Reply #12 on:** Apr 11, 2011, 10:50:11 PM »

Quote from: Rocksurfer on Apr 08, 2011, 06:04:52 AM

Not elimination of it but I cut the arm off to about an inch long then tie-wrap it in the full open position, pretty much eliminates it.

I did the same thing but it started leaking by the bar after a while (most likely from damage done wheeling with it still hooked up). I just ordered a kit from Daves, I'll post some pics when I Install it.

sabatoa1 · « **Reply #13 on:** Apr 15, 2011, 08:00:43 PM »

The unused line on my runner is still under it, its just not ran to anything. I am going to rip it all out tomorrow I will post some pic's of how I did everthing as soon as I can.

OOPS · « **Reply #14 on:** Apr 15, 2011, 09:04:44 PM »

The nice thing about the set up from Dave'z is it is one stop shoping.

yjay · « **Reply #15 on:** Apr 16, 2011, 10:47:33 AM »

Quote from: wicked90runner on Apr 15, 2011, 08:00:43 PM

The unused line on my runner is still under it, its just not ran to anything. I am going to rip it all out tomorrow I will post some pic's of how I did everthing as soon as I can.

Cool.
I'm wondering where it ends up. It must return fluid somewhere and need to be capped I assume?

OOPS · « **Reply #16 on:** Apr 16, 2011, 08:26:19 PM »

Very simple, you remove the return line from the "T" and replace it with a plug. I made my own plug out of a small piece of brake line and fitting, I brazed it closed. Unless you know the correct way to braze do not do this. If you get a "cold" braze the pressure from the system will loosen the joint. As you can see in the picture I just left the return line there.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #17 on:** Apr 16, 2011, 08:33:14 PM »

you can just weld the fitting shut and put back in the T thats what i did and it works fine

Peterbuilt84 · « **Reply #18 on:** Apr 16, 2011, 08:39:53 PM »

Basically did the same thing as OOPS except I went to the junkyard and got the 90 degree fitting to replace the T.

rockymtn89 · « **Reply #19 on:** Apr 17, 2011, 06:51:15 AM »

Anybody have a part # or size for the plug that goes in the front T? I don't want to find someone to braze and I'm no where near any yards to get the "L" fitting.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #20 on:** Apr 17, 2011, 07:35:23 AM »

m10x1.0 mm

yjay · « **Reply #21 on:** Apr 17, 2011, 07:59:08 AM »

That's what I was looking for. Thanks 4runnerchevy for taking the time to post the picture. I'm gonna try it without the prop valve and see how it goes and if it's too much braking in the rear, I'll order one up.

yjay [OP]

yjay [OP]

yjay [OP]

yjay [OP]

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