Bro-coma.. getting unbro-d

[-Matt-]

sorry about the info lag. i dont update this as much as pirate. the degree change actually helps me out with the caster angle for the driveline. it basically gives me a perfect u-joint angle through the whole travel. as far as the steering box bolts i plan on keeping an eye on them, grade 8 wont stretch under that pressure though, specially with hydro assist. i had to stud them because the core support with the radiator it right in the way since the box is so far forward. only thing that could go wrong would be my weld breaking but i can pretty much guarantee that's not gonna happen. and after i finished doing the links i set the caster to 7 at ride.

[-Matt-]

out of curiosity..pumpkin toy what ps pump are your running?

[pumkin toy]

out of curiosity..pumpkin toy what ps pump are your running?

i am running a full hydro setup on my rig. i am using an orbital valve off of a forklift

sorry about the info lag. i dont update this as much as pirate. the degree change actually helps me out with the caster angle for the driveline. it basically gives me a perfect u-joint angle through the whole travel. as far as the steering box bolts i plan on keeping an eye on them, grade 8 wont stretch under that pressure though, specially with hydro assist. i had to stud them because the core support with the radiator it right in the way since the box is so far forward. only thing that could go wrong would be my weld breaking but i can pretty much guarantee that's not gonna happen. and after i finished doing the links i set the caster to 7 at ride.

well it sounds like you have all the bases covered!  i forgot you are going with hydro assist, that will take alot of the pressure of the studs.

[83 Crawler]

 

[-Matt-]

You drive the full hydro on the street? What brand is your pump?

[pumkin toy]

You drive the full hydro on the street? What brand is your pump?

yeah i drive it on the street every once and a while, i do have a trailer for it though.  the orbital valve is an Eaton/ Char-lynn

[TacoRunner]

Are you a certified welder?

[-Matt-]

yeah i drive it on the street every once and a while, i do have a trailer for it though.  the orbital valve is an Eaton/ Char-lynn

so your running it off your stock pump then? do you get lag? are you able to get above 40mph and still keep it stable. im just curious cuz i know some buddies that with similar setups and driving it on the street was do-able but anything above 40 would get scary.

Are you a certified welder?

ya i have 8 or so certs all in stick/tig either separate of together. dont really want to go into details because to most people its just gibberish. but its all from thin to thick.. small to large pipe all in 5-6g position. certs are all rated to nuclear. none of the certs are current though. they expire every 6months and i don't use them right now.

[pumkin toy]

so your running it off your stock pump then? do you get lag? are you able to get above 40mph and still keep it stable. im just curious cuz i know some buddies that with similar setups and driving it on the street was do-able but anything above 40 would get scary.

i am still using the stock supra power steering pump.  its a bit slow and im not real impressed by the current setup.  i need to see if there is a restrictor plate in this pump that i can drill out to make it flow a bit more.  yeah i dont feel comfortable taking it over 50 on the highway right now!  one reason being the steering, and the other reason is that my front axle has drive flanges so the front driveline starts to shake at high speed

[-Matt-]

got ya, im curious what the psi and gpm is on the supra pump. having steering lag is one thing that bothers me. i have a feeling mine will lag. from what iv seen lately the psc pumps dont put out mught more psi and gpm than a stock pump. if it is shitty ill just put a different pump in later on.

[Zs Confederate Toy]

Sick build!! You do some killer work

[yota_krawler]

matt your welds are gonna snap like pretzel sticks

[yota_krawler]

looks good dude

[-Matt-]

went to the oroville self serve and found a stock ifs steering box, cleaned it up and tapped if for hydro assist. put the box in, had to modify the core support more. made the draglink. made the real lowers and upper link.

after i was finished with all that i was articulating everything.. figured out that piece of ac tensioner puller thats always in the way (everyone that has built a low tacoma knows what im taking about) was hitting the draglink when it was full passenger full flex. main reason i didnt check it when i made the mount for the box was because i couldn't have done anything else to make it work any better.

got pissed and figured out a way to run a smaller belt and move up the pulley. it ended up working perfect. i gained 3/4" of room from the actual pulley and probably 1-1/4" of bracket/where the bolt sticks down (since that was also in the way) turned out great and was really easy. i highly suggest it to anyone building a tacoma. all the info and new belt will be in the pictures.

besides lots of little things most of the major fab work on the front end is done. coilovers will be easy to mount and i already have an idea where the bumps are gonna go. either way everything's working out way better than i anticipated and no weird is going no matter what way i articulate it. its gonna have tons of flex.

im gonna post lots of pictures. some of them are kinda pointless but i like to get every angle of everything so that people who are curious don't have to ask as many questions and its easier to understand whats going on.

pics of the AC tensioner pulled mod
BEFORE



AFTER

[-Matt-]

heims are almost maxed out


closets the draglink will ever get to the new pulled mod. (driver full droop, passenger full stuff, steering full passenger)




RIDE HEIGHT

[-Matt-]

closets the new lowers (2-1/4  3/8's wall dom) ever get to the frame (driver full stuff, passenger full droop)








FULL BUMP

[pumkin toy]

looks sick man!!  you are doing some great work on this rig

[-Matt-]

thanks man, im trying to build a rig that i don't get bored of haha.

[-Matt-]

got the brake master cylinder in. its from an early 80's 3/4 ton Chevy ($27 without core...$12 with one). only mods that have to be done is wallowing out the holes inward just a little bit on the new mc to fit the existing booster studs. the hole on the booster matches the nub sticking out on the mc, so it centers it perfectly. i had to lengthen the push rod probably 1/4" or so, dont remember what the actual perfect measurement came out to be. just unscrewed the original threaded push rod and grabbed a 10mm bolt that was a little bit longer and flappered the head to make it more smooth/round. all worked out great.

[-Matt-]

and if anyone needs this kit from sky i didnt use it. its actually designed for earlier gen toyotas that are converting to 1ton (dont know why i ordered it back in the day). all still brand new. ill ship it for $50 (adapter and master cylinder)
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=216

[Jud]

looks bad a bro!

[46&2]

Coming along killer Matt. Great work man.

[-Matt-]

thanks guys,

nothing out of the ordinary but heres the finished steering column.

[-Matt-]

all my shocks showed up today. i dont have any personal experience with the company i went with...'Profender'. but they come from Thailand, i guess theres a big rock racing scene there with these buggies that look pretty cool, but they seem to be on a smaller scale than what goes on here, as far as obstacles go, but i might be wrong.

i did a little research and they seemed really good quality for the cost. i expected a decent looking product but i was blown away when they showed up. the craftsmanship and quality externally is top notch. they look exactly identical to king. i dont know what the inside looks like but im gonna assume there also good.

before i ordered them i was looking at all the internal pics of their shocks that they were comparing and contrasting to other companies, seemed legit. so hopefully they will be a good shock.

925$ shipped for 2  2.0-16" coilovers (no springs) custom valved with hardware, and 2  3" bumps with cans (that came sand blasted).

also got the Eibach coil springs and tenders. the silver matches my truck exactly.

Ill probably start on putting these in next week. still kinda taking a break, and what time i do have im spending on installing gears for a buddy.

[sckid831]

its a really really clean build and clean truck what tires are you going to run?

[86bobbedtoy]

soo jelous

[-Matt-]

thanks, some sort of a 40" tire. probably an mtr, maybe ill go with something else though. dont really care if its a softer tread, i wont be driving it on the road much.

[Dingman.]

DAMN those look sick.

I definitively want to check them out in person.  Need a hand? or at least i can be there for support,  haha more likely just to watch and learn.

[TacoRunner]

Looks like a 200/300 spring selection. Good joice for that vehicle.

thanks, some sort of a 40" tire. probably an mtr, maybe ill go with something else though. dont really care if its a softer tread, i wont be driving it on the road much.

Any thoughts toward a KM2 over thte MTR?

[-Matt-]

wow i didnt even realize that i got a 16" 300 rate spring till you said that... it was suppose to be a 350. they sent me the wrong rate. kinda skeptical about it being to soft but ill just run it and find out. as long as my valving is stiff i think it will be good.

i would love a set of km2's probably even more than an mtr.