BigMike's Big Project

[toyotaboy]

aw comeone.. theres still plenty of time tonight

[brainlessfool]

Hey mikey, like the looks of the gas tank! awww, cutting the bed ? I'd like a bigger tank in my 83 butt I hall a cab-over camper. don't think cutting the bed saport would work for me.  I'll have to find a reason to drive to fresno and look at it some time!     keep up the good work

[brainlessfool]

It's been awhile and no up-dates. me thinky mikey getting lazy   

[reklund5]

Bigmike-

I just read this entire thread and loved it.  Your truck is going to turn out great at the rate you're going.  I especially enjoyed your post about having 2 white Toyotas in the garage.  I've got my pearl white 400HP 87 Supra next to my white 84 pickup on 37's.  Email me some info on your mister 2 when you get a chance!  Also, I work at a toyota dealership so if you need any wiring diagrams scanned or faxed, just let me know.  I just went through an EFI conversion on my truck and know how frustrating all the electrical stuff can be.

Ryan

[WHITE_TRASH]

Hes goona need the schematic for a 90 2x x-cab auto with a/c, dash.  Not that all those little things matter but just incase.  He's going to be putting that dash in so the wiring will need to be done.

[reklund5]

I'll see what I can do...

Ryan

[BigMike]

Hey guys,

Probably wondering what's been up, huh?

Since my last updates, I've finished the gas tank and wired the pump into the cab awaiting the interior crossover, made some 1" body lift spacers (Im still debating if I want to use them or not), replaced belts + filters + added some new engine oil, bought a bunch of exhaust gewdies from Summit such as mandrel and straight 2.25" piping, some heat wrap, and some hangers, so Im all ready to build my exhaust system, and I put in the water overfill resivor, mist system resivor, and I finished wiring the engine main fuse box into the '81 truck harness along with connecting the starter to the ignition circuit of the T100 interior wiring. So once I get the new interior it should just be matching up wires and crossing it all over..

The last things I was working on was building a battery tray and mounting the battery under the bed, and the engine fan. I dont know if I've mentioned it before or not, but I do plan on building a bracket for a York compressor (onboard air) and also installing a factory AC system. So I need to run a condenser along with the radiator. And after getting the new belts on and bolting everything up, I am NOT happy with the fan-to-radiator clearance. I thought I would be ok but I dont want to risk it. I've been doing a ton of research on e-fans and I've decided to run a small fan in front of the AC condenser and a 16" fan behind the radiator, both electric. Then I will carry an extra motor for the 16" fan in my tool box. That's it, all of my worries about my electric fans dyeing and leaving me stranded in the mountains are now solved. Those little motors are very small and hell, I could store it under my seat if I wanted to. And since I will buy a second 16" fan to disassemble for the motor, then I will have a complete set of spare fan blades at hand. I can throw those in a ban and store them anywhere also..

So its been decided, I will be using electric fans, and I've already got a couple used 14" Hayden and Imperial fans that I've been experimenting with mounting and fitting to the engine and radiator.. So that's basically in the bag.

So what's up now? Well today was my first day back at school so my work hours are cut and so is my income. This weekend I will out of town with Marlin so it will be a while before any real progress is made..

I would like to have the engine running by the end of Aug, but at the slow rate I've been going so far Im not sure....

Before I go, here are some recent pics for your viewing pleasure

BigMike

[BigMike]

Here are some pics of the alum. spacers

So far I've only made 8 for the rear. 6 more are needed for the front if I actually decided to keep them.. I've not made up my mind about it yet.. Im concerned about fitting 37's with only 4" of lift but yet I want to keep the COG as low as possible and I dont want to hack up my fenders.............

[BigMike]

motto shashin!!

[BigMike]

Here are the finished pics of the custom high side ps line and the automatic trans cooler installed on the ps return line for cooling. Can't beat $23 bucks for a cooler!

[Skinny_Pedal]

the 1" bodylift in the pics doesnt look overkill. i say go with them. but with 2+ inches in when u c through the frame and it looks goofy. nice truck and keep on working

[BigMike]

And finally, here's a pic of the engine last time I had the camera there. That's before I wired in the fuse box on the drivers inner fender wall there......

So that's about it for now. Hey Ryan, don't worry about that dia, I've got one for a Toy interior 1990 so I'm good-

Thanks and cya,
BigMike

[lowgeared]

I really like my one inch body lift.  Makes getting to the starter a lot easier.  What is a mist system?

[BigMike]

I really like my one inch body lift.  Makes getting to the starter a lot easier.

Hmmmmmm...... Maybe once I install the lift on the cab I will feel better about it. The frame is really not all that visible so I wouldn't mind running it.

What is a mist system?

heh heh heh. Why would I tell you?

[To The Floor]

nitrous  but in a 4x? 

[WHITE_TRASH]

Looks good Mike. Id do the body lift, youd be suprised at all the things that are made easier just by lifting the body that little bit.  Not only is the starter easier to deal with but its way easier to cleanup after a muddy trail.  On the interior, still no big strokes of great news but it you wnat Id box up the wireing and all the misc. small stuff so you can keep working on it.

[Skinny_Pedal]

i saw a mist system on monster garage. was in front of the motor and prayed it and cooled it down. im guessing its something similar to this

[Brandon]

i saw a mist system on monster garage. was in front of the motor and prayed it and cooled it down. im guessing its something similar to this

it's internal..

[reklund5]

No need for the wiring, well Ok.  I'll just have to figure out a way to get you a TRD Blower for it...  Maybe we can "warranty" one...

Keep up the good work!

Ryan

[lowgeared]

I think I've heard they use water injection on v-12s and diesels and rotary's to keep them from detonating so you could advance the timing more???  Or something like that.

[WHITE_TRASH]

Yup, of all the things the perfect mixture is windshield washing solution.  Its got the right mix of alcohol and water.  They started using water injection on planes to fight detonation back before WWII.

[Skinny_Pedal]

what do u mean by internal? where does the water go to?

[WHITE_TRASH]

the water/alcohol mix goes in the intake tract with the fuel/air mixture.

[Skinny_Pedal]

so then its a form of nitrous in a way?

[WHITE_TRASH]

Not really but you can crank the initial timing up past normal and not blow the pistons to pieces.

[TigerToy]

You could probably run cheap gas too.  Where could I come by one of these systems?

[WHITE_TRASH]

Ill see about finding some specs on one.  I think weve jacked mikes thread enough.

[BigMike]

Yup, of all the things the perfect mixture is windshield washing solution.  Its got the right mix of alcohol and water.  They started using water injection on planes to fight detonation back before WWII.

WT is right. As I read, the reason they were having problems was due to lack of oxygen up in the higher altitudes that the 'new' planes were flying at, so the engines were detonating. So an engineer developed a simple water injection system during some tests and it solved the problem, provided more power (it's cooler), and increased the planes range.

I've been building and running water injection systems for the last 3 years. I've become so successful with the concept in fact that on my last Supercharged engine for my MR2 I was turning almost 18 psi of boost without an intercooler. Yup, the outlet-high pressure side-of the supercharger just had a simple 5" or so pipe to the intake manifold so their was almost zero boost lag and I could achieve more peak boost since I was not loosing any psi due to the restriction of an intercooler.

If you are curious, I would be sitting at a red light and my intake probe would read 125 F. Once the light turned green and I ran it wide open throttle, by the time I was shifting into 3rd gear, less than 5 seconds around 65mph, my sensor was reading 45 F -- NO BS. I am not even kidding. I have many friends who were so amazed who can testify this. You just watch the meter, it goes like 125 F, then 80 F, then 58 F and then would settle around 40-50 F. As fast as the meter could change it would read it. And to make you even more amazed, water droplets would form on the OUTSIDE of the intake manifold!! It was amazing. That's because the manifold was so cold condensation would form on the outside from the surrounding air. When you touch it it felt like an ice freezer.

I tried windshield washer fluid but it smells funny. Instead I just use a 40/60 mixture of 40% pure Methanol alcohol, and 60% deionized water. The alcohol is what does most of the cooling. The key is to spray a very fine mist so the mixture atomizes very rapidly consuming a crap load of heat in its shift from a liquid to a gas.

I've built 4 different systems on my MR2, and 2 systems on buddies cars. Total cost? Around $40. Check out this webpage -- this is where I got all of my ideas from:
http://www.dawesdevices.com/water.html

And here is the Do It Yourself How To page:
http://www.dawesdevices.com/howto.html


Ok, I'm off to run Dusy with Marlin's truck! If anyone wants some more info, I can post pics of my setups and what pumps Im using, etc when I get back Cya!
BigMike

[84runner]

Well I want some more info BigMike so don't forget.

[GrimReaper]

VERY interesting read but I got a question for you and after I ask it your going to go 

Why does the gast tank have to be on the passenger side?

You fuel lines had to go to the other side, It's in the way of your exhaust.

Why not mount the tank on the dirverside and just extend the fill tube back to the filler neck on the passenger side and that will make your exhaust a straight shot.