Topic: BigMike's Big Project

[Ferg]

Is it just me or is it as tight as it looks from the pulley's to the core support?

A long time ago Marlin got a radiator from a diesel Toyota truck that's alot thicker, maybe a 4 core? 3? anyways, I'm thinking I might need a larger one too to help keep this engine cool - Im sure its not needed, but I just like to keep things as cool as possible. Crawling around rocks doesnt move much air through the radiator anyways...

So I am even wondering if I can use that thicker radiator and still be able to use the clutch fan.

Mike,  I'm running a 4.3L GM V6 with an '83? Toy diesel radiator, stock 3 core, Man trans.  Works just fine with an 18" flex fan and no shroud!  Prior to installing A/C, I used a 180 degree thermostat.  With A/C a 160 seems to be doing good.

[83yota]

FLEX FAN NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! dont mean to jack your thread keep up the good work.

[yotaboy79]

hell yeah!!!!!

[Brandon]

FLEX FAN NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! dont mean to jack your thread keep up the good work.

go SPAL or go home!   (ebay)

I have a 1.25" thick spal that keeps my V8 cool at any speed..

[BigMike [OP]]

Monday,
Today marks one week of work on this project

I was pretty beat from the weekend so I thought I would take it easy and just do some small things that needed to be done... but one of the small things turned into a real head ache. More on that later.

I finally got some pics taken in the day time before I pulled her inside to pull the engine yet again.

I tried to take some shots from some angles that you haven't seen yet to give you a good idea of what it looks like...

[Brandon]

So here are my only clearance issues....

One with the brake booster which should be ok, and the other with the diff. Now its really dangerously close to the diff. But, I wanted to get the engine as low as possible to help with the CG. Once I put some 4" springs on and move the axle forward about 2 inches it will be in much better condition. I could always install some extra bump stop on the bottom of the passenger's side engine mount that will contact the top of the pumpkin before the housing wacks the oil pan. So I've got some more things to do and play around with before that really is an issue. I will just be careful while I am driving it around getting it smogged and registered. Like as if I jump trucks anyways? 

ya know the brake line configuration on the 1 1/8" Toyota MC is nearly the same as the early toy..

 It looks like I have more booster clearance than you? ;P

[BigMike [OP]]

WT, these pics also show the ample space for the fan and radiator.

And BTW everyone, I ordered a 86-87 22R-TE Turbo 3-core radiator today for a measly $50. Sweet. I dont know if it will fit OR bolt up but I will MAKE it work So that's cool. No really, its cool, you know? Also if its in bad condition, then a local shop cleans 'em out for just 40 bills.

[Brandon]

wow, that is a lot of clearance!!

[BigMike [OP]]

How about the up close picture of that dash?

Hey 81Toy4x, as promised here's the pic of my dash that I be replacing sometime soon..

So yup, the 3RZ got yanked out yet again

[BigMike [OP]]

So as I was saying, I was just going to do 3 things and be home really early.

#1. When I picked up the engine, I removed the exhaust down pipe so I didnt damage it and one of the exhaust studs sheared off. So I took care of that.
#2. The W59 bellhousing has both the starter and clutch on the drivers side, so I relocated the plumbing for the clutch slave and got it all ready to go on the drivers side.
#3. A new battery tray will be fabricated on the drivers side, so the old one came off.

So which one of these jobs do you think kicked my ass? Well its actually the easiest job, #1. I've removed broken studs a hundred and one times before. I normally drill through the bolt and then collapse it using a drimmel. But this time part of the stud was accessible so I thought I could just weld a bolt on to it and then remove it. Wrong. I even cranked the volts to 24 and got some great penetration but it just sheared my bolt off. So then I had to hacksaw off all the welds. Then I set it up to drill through the bolt. It took along time. I didnt know that the broken off bolt was really quite long. I dulled numerous drill bits and had to grab the drill doctor. It took along time to finally get the stud out, and then it looks like I ruined some of the threads on the manifold. So I needed to run a tap through there. Yeah, without Marlin in the shop, forget about ever finding the tool you need. I must have spent at least 20mins search for a 10x1.25 tap. I got so mad. We have a couple places where this tool belongs and it was no where to be found. I finally found it and got it tapped out, but now the bolt is slightly crooked.
Geeze. I hope it doesnt leak or give the smog guy something to look at. I plan on putting on a header sometime down the road so I suppose its not really that bad.... but it took me 2 freak'n hours just to get that stud out. I left the manifold on the engine and moved the whole engine over to the welder. I thought, if I take off the manifold it would waste time, I just wanted to get that stud out. Yeah right. I should have removed the manifold and done it right.

The battery tray was so rusted the spot welds basically pulled right out I only had to drill three of 'em out and then used my strong chicken wings to pull the tray out by hand. I grinded all the rust down and then I must'ave sprayed on three coats of the anti-rust spray. Lets just say it wont be rusting any time soon

[BigMike [OP]]

So that's about all the action for today. Oh yeah, it took me a while to get the engine out. It didnt want to leave its new host.

So now I've got about everything done that needed to be done while the engine is out for one last time. Tomorrow evening Andy will finish up the welds on his kick-ass engine mounts, get the frame painted, and then I'll sit the 3RZ in its resting place for hopefully a long time!

So I've got the clutch done. Fuel lines still need to be routed and it looks like I am going to cut out the factory rear shock mount cross bar and fit in the larger EFI long bed gas tank Then I need to route some fuel lines over to the drivers side, get the crossmember temporarily mounted for smog (I think I will run a Front Range Off Road crossmember once I get the Crawler in), then build my own exhaust system and get it crossed over to the drivers side to keep the cat in the stock location. For now the wiring really wont be so bad. Im not going to hook anything up except for the engine temp and check engine light. The turn signals/blinkers/horn/everything else is already wired through the stock 81' system. I think all I will have to do is plug in the ecu, set up some ground wires, get the battery installed, and build the simple fuse block on the drivers side and it should be about ready for some test runs

Im hopeing to have most of that paragraph done by the end of this weekend. Marlin is gone until Thursday, so I would like to have as much finished as possible to show off to him. He has not seen my progress since last friday so I think he will be surprised. He has a 3RZ at the shop but he hasn't had any time to get it in his 80, so hopefully this will encourage him to get it installed in his rig also!

So I'll just have to keep working like this and I should get some results pretty soon. I want to keep pushing myself so I can get it running and registered so I can focus on other projects for the rig.

Cya later!
BigMike

[BigMike [OP]]

WOW...you are way ahead of me!!   Do you mind if I post some part #'s and pics on the 3RZ that I have gathered so far?  Might help someone else...just didn't want to butt in on your thread without asking.

Hey Kent, thanks for asking and go ahead Hopefully if we both run into any problems we can work it out and get our rigs running! Keep us updated on yours as well!

[BigMike [OP]]

Has your's ever come close? Do you have any idea? I know the engine torques that way...

[WHITE_TRASH]

Mike if your going to go through the trouble of changing the rear mount for a bigger tank why not start out with the biggest?  Tell ya what if you'll use it Ill send down the 90 tank minus pump and pickup for nothing.

[83yota]

while i hope see that rig on the trail real soon

[BigMike [OP]]

toyhatsu, thanks for the pics and the part numbers. I would love to overhaul various parts of the engine, but my philosophy with installing used engines like this is to first get it running without touching anything and then check it out later. That way I know it was running before, so if I can't get it to start, then I know its my wiring problem and not an engine/mechanical problem.

Does anyone know what the interval is for the 22R timing chain? Like 120k miles or something? I've been raised around timing belts with my MR2s and they are normally 60k.

Mike if your going to go through the trouble of changing the rear mount for a bigger tank why not start out with the biggest?  Tell ya what if you'll use it Ill send down the 90 tank minus pump and pickup for nothing.

Hey WT, thats a great idea. I will measure my efi tank and see how long it is. Isn't the largest one 15gal? I will take some more pics of my tank so you can identify it for me!

BigMike

[Brandon]

Has your's ever come close? Do you have any idea? I know the engine torques that way...

no but I really do have a lot of room, BUT you mentioned you were going to swap boosters and I believe they are all larger than the one in our trucks..

I just put that booster in, the last one was FULL of brake fluid.. 

I'm liking the large MC and it is kinda cool that it is toyota, as with the larger clutch MC (TLC).

[WHITE_TRASH]

Nope the largets tank is 18.6 I believe.  The efi tank in your pic is cut off so there is only about 2" sticking above the level of the seam, correct?  If so its a 15-16 gallon tank.  The tank from the 90 is almost flat all the way across the top.

[Brandon]

toyhatsu, thanks for the pics and the part numbers. I would love to overhaul various parts of the engine, but my philosophy with installing used engines like this is to first get it running without touching anything and then check it out later. That way I know it was running before, so if I can't get it to start, then I know its my wiring problem and not an engine/mechanical problem.

Does anyone know what the interval is for the 22R timing chain? Like 120k miles or something? I've been raised around timing belts with my MR2s and they are normally 60k.

Mike if your going to go through the trouble of changing the rear mount for a bigger tank why not start out with the biggest?  Tell ya what if you'll use it Ill send down the 90 tank minus pump and pickup for nothing.

Hey WT, thats a great idea. I will measure my efi tank and see how long it is. Isn't the largest one 15gal? I will take some more pics of my tank so you can identify it for me!

BigMike

when you hear the rattle.. change it

[brainlessfool]

that's about right. with chains you change them when there's truble. really

[toyhatsu]

that's about right. with chains you change them when there's truble. really

The immensity of my ignorance leaves me nonplussed

Factory part #'s:

T100 2WD oil pan                        12101-65030
T100 2WD oil pan pick up tube      15104-62060
T100 2WD pick up tube gasket      15147-62020
T100 2WD dipstick                       15301-62060
T100 2WD dipstick guide tube       11452-62060
T100 2WD union                          90405-10033
3RZ-fe head gasket                      11115-75031

[Skinny_Pedal]

hate to thread jack but what does a timing chain sound like when its bad?

[WHITE_TRASH]

constant light rattling. 

[donkeykong]

Mike you should link this thread to the PROJECTS page on the main site.

[84runner]

Boy this thing is coming rigth along BigMike,  it dont' look like you have anything in the engine compartment for that thing. So you got a radiator for that thing for only $50.00  I looked at buying one of these and they wanted $180.00 new for a lifetime gaurantee modine or bodine something like that. And that was with a discount too. 

[cgbemis]

Big Mike,
     Are you guys going to offer a kit for those of us that want to do this swap? Things like Engine mounts. It would seem that this could be a profit making venture for the shop.

[kyle_22r]

hey, what's the "sensor" light on your gauge cluster do?  that's almost the exact same cluster as my '79(besides the idiot lights having different having words instead of pictures) but it sure doesn't have a "sensor" light

[BigMike [OP]]

Tuesday - Wednesday,

Hey guys,

It's 1:30am and I am home now. Pulled a late nighter but the work is very slow and tedious right now. Yesterday (Tue), Andy finalized the engine mounts, I painted everything, and put the engine back in for the final time.

Today (Wed), I got the tranny and tcase all in and got the crossmember to bolt up which I didnt think would happen (using temporary U-bolt mounts). Marlin, the king of discovering lemons, started "feeling" my truck up and noticed that the pilot bearing was totally wasted. Man I didnt even think of checking that, I am used to setups that do not use a pilot bearing. Owning a truck is new to me remember? So I pulled the clutch apart and replaced the pilot bearing. And I was glad to see that the clutch was close to brand new. It is a 3 double spring style disk, as apposed to our 2.7l Heavy Duty Clutch Kit that uses 4 double springs, but I am just going to go ahead of use mine of course. I will upgrade to Marlin's clutch kit when ever this one goes out or someone gives his kit to me for free

So I got the trans installed and everything is going very well at the moment. I dont have many pictures because not much has changed. Tonight, working until just past 1am, I did nothing but wiring all night long. Here is a pic of about 1/4 of the total wiring I will be sorting through. All I did tonight was just parse through all the '81 Carb wires and pulled alot of the unneeded wires out. I got the horns, blinkers, headlights, etc wired in now too. That is the only part of the '81 harness that made it into the engine bay. So everything is very clean inside the bay, very low clutter. Also, I've decided to remove the windshield squirters because the battery will be placed in the stock location of the water revisor, so I would have to convert the revisor over to the passengers side and I just dont care enough about it. I think with my MR2 I've used the squirters one time. I never ever use them. That's what rags and window squiggies (sp?) are for.

Today at lunch time, I took a quick trip to our wrecking yard, found a late 80's 2WD extra cab 22RE pickup, and scored on it's fuel pump and sending unit for $50 bucks. In my area these are gold, so I got very lucky There were only 3 total Toyota trucks, all 2WD of course but just the one EFI. I need a EFI throttle cable still, but someone snagged it before I got there. I was able to get the high-pressure fuel line that connects the fuel filter to the hard line coming from the tank. This was the last missing link to completing my fuel system and now Its mine.

Which brings me to this question regarding wrecking yards: When I first started hitting yards, finding a MR2 was very hard. So whenever I would find one, I felt like it was so special for the yard. So when I would get something and take it out to buy it, I would always tell the clerk that my item was from a Toyota Tercel or like a Geo Metro or something... My idea used to be that because the MR2 is so rare, they must charge more for the parts because its a special model. And since most parts are interchangeable, I usually just told the clerk the part was from a very common and normal car. But then I started thinking that if I never report that my parts are coming from the MR2s, then they will think that the MR2 is a poor parts car and they won't want to buy any. So its like im hurting my future chances by saving some $ now. But I think this is all in my head. So I was wondering if anyone knows why they ask 'what car is that part from' because why do they care? Do they track the parts to see what models are the best sellers or does their database automatically adjust the prices in accordance to the vehicle model?

Anyways, that's alot of nonsense you dont need to read but you did so hahaha

I am still waiting for my Turbo Radiator, ECU, 2nd o2 sensor, clutch slave cylinder, gas tank, and I need an EFI throttle cable... Hopefully most of this stuff (except for the tank) can make it here before the weekend so I can have something to do on Sat and Sun. I think I will go and buy a manual for a T100 so I can figure out the wiring. Marlin's automotive garage next door does not have a good book for that year so I am on my own with the wiring. And I am definitely no stranger to wiring. I've done 2 US Supercharged conversions on my buddies MR2s and including my conversion from a FWD 91-93 JDM supercharged engine that I transplanted into my MR2. Wiring never really gives me a head ache and I dont get overwhelmed, its just a slow and time consuming task and you've gotta do it one wire at a time and do it right the first time.

Welp I could use some shut-eye about now, so I will catch everyone later, night!
BigMike

[BigMike [OP]]

hey, what's the "sensor" light on your gauge cluster do?  that's almost the exact same cluster as my '79(besides the idiot lights having different having words instead of pictures) but it sure doesn't have a "sensor" light

I'm not sure.

[WHITE_TRASH]

Guess what I just so happened to know a guy with a throttle cabl...... ok its me.  Ill throw it in with the rest of the stuff for ya.