Author Topic: BigMike's Big Project (Read 714991 times)

GrimReaper · « **Reply #420 on:** Sep 12, 2004, 03:45:00 PM »

Quote from: Ferg on Sep 12, 2004, 12:36:34 PM

Try this - jumper from the top post to the side post with a length of battery cable. Keep it as short as possible. This provides a parallel path for current flow and increases load capacity.

What's the point of going to the side at all if your jumpering the top to the side?
Why not just get a boat adapter terminal that will let you hook the cable right to the top post and be done with it?

BigMike · « **Reply #421 on:** Sep 12, 2004, 04:25:03 PM »

Hey, today I was talking to Marlin about this and he informed me that he's been running his winches (warn upright 8274 for 10+ years, a now a warn 9500ti) for many years from the side posts of his red top optima and has had no problems.

And Marlin was handed the nick name of "Mr. Panamint" and lead each run up surpise canyon before they closed it down (damn enviros). He's winched up those 7 water falls every year since '92 I believe (yes, before the Crawler was invented). And he would go multiple times each year. And while winching up waterfalls may not be as much of a load as pulling out of mud holes, his side posts did get their share of extensive amperage throughput without any problems at all.

Maybe during a certain time period the optima batteries were under-engineered/developed?

reklund5 · « **Reply #422 on:** Sep 12, 2004, 07:27:53 PM »

I've got my Ramsey REP8000 (hey, it was FREE!!) wired to the side posts on my red top, and have stalled it trying to yank my truck off a big 'ol rock. Never had a problem.

Ryan

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #423 on:** Sep 12, 2004, 07:30:42 PM »

theres nothing wrong with a rep8000. thats what my truck has...saved me a couple of times now

FIREBALL · « **Reply #424 on:** Sep 12, 2004, 09:50:51 PM »

Hey mike,
When I went up there with Marlin there was less winching than wheelin. I can't believe he got traction on that mossy crap.
Besides, I usually use my winch to pull him out, that way he doesn't have to try and find his remote.

-

GrimReaper · « **Reply #425 on:** Sep 13, 2004, 12:06:03 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on Sep 12, 2004, 04:25:03 PM

Hey, today I was talking to Marlin about this and he informed me that he's been running his winches (warn upright 8274 for 10+ years, a now a warn 9500ti) for many years from the side posts of his red top optima and has had no problems.

And Marlin was handed the nick name of "Mr. Panamint" and lead each run up surpise canyon before they closed it down (damn enviros). He's winched up those 7 water falls every year since '92 I believe (yes, before the Crawler was invented). And he would go multiple times each year. And while winching up waterfalls may not be as much of a load as pulling out of mud holes, his side posts did get their share of extensive amperage throughput without any problems at all.

Maybe during a certain time period the optima batteries were under-engineered/developed?

I was the Landuse guy for my club....Ohh I can pregnant dog about the GAG's. I've lost the closest trails to me. Its one of the reasons I went for a K5 to a 4Runner. I have 2 hours of road between me and the closest trail. I needed to get a vehcile I could tow easier.

On the battery. Just telling you what I have seen first hand. When that battery was brought back becasue of the failure they refused to Warranty it. I think it was a yellow top even. Red tops they will not warranty for Winch use reguardless. The specify for Engine starting only on the Reds. They conciderwinching a Deepcycle use and will waranty for 12 months only on a Yellow top.
http://www.optimabatteries.com
Waranty info availlable on their site.

BigMike · « **Reply #426 on:** Sep 13, 2004, 05:36:47 PM »

Thanks for all of this info Grim, hopefully it can save someone's battery!

ifssucks · « **Reply #427 on:** Sep 14, 2004, 01:15:01 PM »

any idea on the largest drop pitman arm i can get for an 86 toyoat pickup? does marlin make one?having steering issues with my 2.7 swap.

BigMike · « **Reply #428 on:** Sep 14, 2004, 04:16:38 PM »

Its hitting the oil pan or maybe worse the engine block, huh.....

You should just try to modify your arm yourself. We do make custom pitman arms, but we wont do any better than what you could do at a shop. We will just take a stock arm, cut it in half, add some metal, weld the crap outta it, and ship it. No warrentee of course. But we really wont have any clue as to what angle you need or how far to drop it, that's why I think you're better off making one over there.

So could you take some pictures of the interference and of course include some engine shots!

ifssucks · « **Reply #429 on:** Sep 14, 2004, 04:32:57 PM »

the problem is you have to drop the idler arm the exact amount as the pitman arm and keep the proper angle on the tie rod ends also. i just ordered a digital camera from dell today so when that comes ill send a bunch of pictures of my project. i just ordered a new home computer and a bunch of goodies along wtih it. got a smokin setup for 1300 bucks. cant wait to get it all. i was wondering how different the tacoma steering setups are than my truck{86}.

BigMike · « **Reply #430 on:** Sep 14, 2004, 05:12:45 PM »

Quote from: ifssucks on Sep 14, 2004, 04:32:57 PM

i was wondering how different the tacoma steering setups are than my truck{86}.

Much, much! different. Tacomas use a rack and pinion type of steering box while our box is a screw type. It has a differnet column angle, differnet box mounting location, and totally different steering setup to the two wheels.

You would be better off cutting the front part of your frame off and replacing it with one cut from a Tacoma, and then everything else would be off.....

Man, gotta go SAS with this maybe....

ifssucks · « **Reply #431 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 09:26:34 AM »

sounds like sas would solve a lot of problems. i just have to get this thing out of my shop soon, because im being transfered to another store and i cant keep it there. so ill have to do all the work at home. and i dont really have the means. i think im going to just haCK the draglink and put a drop in it some how.

BigMike · « **Reply #432 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 10:12:49 AM »

I'll be test driving mine sometime this weekend, and then I'll have a list of bugs to play with before its smog ready. Im thinking about getting it drivable, and then just taking it down to a smog shop to have it smogged as a 22R. This will of course fail the visual, so I can take the fail slip to the DMV and get a two month driving pass for the cost of the failed smog job. Then I can drive my truck on the road without fear of the coppers and have plenty of time and experience to get all of the bugs worked out and ready for the referee to check it out and approve the job as a 95 T100.

I want to get the 90 interior installed before I smog it anyways, so it's gonna be at least a month before Its really ready for the ref, so I might as well have fun driving it around between now and then!

ifssucks: Looking forward to seeing some pics of your work

GrimReaper · « **Reply #433 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 12:42:36 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on Sep 15, 2004, 10:12:49 AM

I'll be test driving mine sometime this weekend, and then I'll have a list of bugs to play with before its smog ready. Im thinking about getting it drivable, and then just taking it down to a smog shop to have it smogged as a 22R. This will of course fail the visual, so I can take the fail slip to the DMV and get a two month driving pass for the cost of the failed smog job. Then I can drive my truck on the road without fear of the coppers and have plenty of time and experience to get all of the bugs worked out and ready for the referee to check it out and approve the job as a 95 T100.

I want to get the 90 interior installed before I smog it anyways, so it's gonna be at least a month before Its really ready for the ref, so I might as well have fun driving it around between now and then!

ifssucks: Looking forward to seeing some pics of your work

What a pain in the butt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They don't even lift the hood here when the do the emmisions test. They throw an inductive pickup on the hood to get a tach signal. Put it on a Dyno do a idle test and 2 speed rolling test at 15 and 25 mph. As long as what comes out the tail pipe is clean to the sniffer and they see something Cat like on the exhaust your done. I had a guy not do the visual and I went for the fail for no cat and the damn thing passed the sniffer and the guy handed me a PASS.

My 88 454 Suburban is EXEMPT because of the 8600lb GVWR.

Now I do wonder what I will have to do if I 2L-TE my Gas 4Runner. That might be interesting.

Brandon · « **Reply #434 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 01:31:10 PM »

Mike, just smog it right..

Mine was the easiest smog ever from the ref - and the cheapest! It was like $20!

dirtbag · « **Reply #435 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 04:07:41 PM »

my Jeep & my Omega both have temporary smog tags on them. Get it all caught up on fees, ask for a temporary smog pass for as long as they'll allow, then you'll be good to go

Mike D · « **Reply #436 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 05:24:47 PM »

Diahatsu Rocky's look really good with exos

BigMike · « **Reply #437 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 07:34:14 PM »

Hey Toyhatsu,

So he will have it all finished and running by Monday or Tuesday? He must really be commited or you are paying him alot of $$ If so then that's awesome!

Quote from: Brandon on Sep 15, 2004, 01:31:10 PM

Mike, just smog it right..

Mine was the easiest smog ever from the ref - and the cheapest! It was like $20!

Quote from: BigMike on Sep 15, 2004, 10:12:49 AM

Then I can drive my truck on the road without fear of the coppers and have plenty of time and experience to get all of the bugs worked out and ready for the referee to check it out and approve the job as a 95 T100.

I want to get the 90 interior installed before I smog it anyways, so it's gonna be at least a month before Its really ready for the ref, so I might as well have fun driving it around between now and then!

Of course it will be done right, but I would rather start driving it now to make sure everything is in top shape, and one way to do that is with a driving pass.

I will go to the ref, I will get it approved as a 95 T100, and this will be done right and professionally, and it will pass somg on the first time through.

Quote from: GrimReaper on Sep 15, 2004, 12:42:36 PM

What a pain in the butt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They don't even lift the hood here when the do the emmisions test.

You lucky son of a female dog who is in heat.

reklund5 · « **Reply #438 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 09:00:52 PM »

Mike-

If the ecu's all hooked up and you have a functional check engine light, with codes, why can't you just go ahead and get it registered? Do the smog ref's in Cali require that your dashboard be assembled and your instrument cluster NOT be in the passenger floorboard? Out here in New Mexico, we only have emission testing in one county. (which is why I register all of my cars at my buddies house across the county line...)

Ryan

Brandon · « **Reply #439 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 10:07:16 PM »

they don't care, I did my detail work long after it was fully legal!

If it runs and you got a light and a parking brake your good..

BigMike · « **Reply #440 on:** Sep 15, 2004, 11:42:52 PM »

I actually dont need to do this for smog, but here's why I need a 94-95 dash: It uses an electric speedometer sender. The 3RZ's computer needs a speed sensor to make its calculations (otherwise check engine light comes on and I fail), so I somehow need to hook one up. And since 94-95 Pickups came stock with a the same Gear Drive t/case but it used an electric speed sensor instead of the cable, I can kill two birds with one stone: run the speed sensor to the ECU and to the 94-95 dash for my speedometer to work.

But, its not required to have a functioning speedometer, so I could just wire the ECU directly to the electric speedsensor, which would leave me with no place to attach the mechanical speedometer cable for my 81' speedometer, so it would then just stay detached, and I wouldnt have a speedometer.
And I could use the oil light as my check engine light if I wanted to.

But look, Im not going to play games with all of these splicing and cutting and jerry-riggin, I want to do the job right the first time.

Getting the truck past the ref is NOT a concern with me. I know it will happen when the time comes.

I just want to have the truck 100% finished for the ref so he doesnt look into 101 nicks and crannies to find something that doesnt appeal to the CA law makers.

88runner · « **Reply #441 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 06:32:07 AM »

Quote from: GrimReaper on Sep 15, 2004, 12:42:36 PM

What a pain in the butt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They don't even lift the hood here when the do the emmisions test. They throw an inductive pickup on the hood to get a tach signal. Put it on a Dyno do a idle test and 2 speed rolling test at 15 and 25 mph. As long as what comes out the tail pipe is clean to the sniffer and they see something Cat like on the exhaust your done. I had a guy not do the visual and I went for the fail for no cat and the damn thing passed the sniffer and the guy handed me a PASS.

My 88 454 Suburban is EXEMPT because of the 8600lb GVWR.

Now I do wonder what I will have to do if I 2L-TE my Gas 4Runner. That might be interesting.

around here it's like: "Is thiss your car?", "yes", "OK next".

not to hard to pass.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #442 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 06:48:36 AM »

Whats a smog check again?

Brandon · « **Reply #443 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 07:05:21 AM »

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on Sep 16, 2004, 06:48:36 AM

Whats a smog check again?

if ya go diesel or propane no smog check here, or pre 74'

KYOTA · « **Reply #444 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 09:52:04 AM »

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on Sep 16, 2004, 06:48:36 AM

Whats a smog check again?

We dont need no stinkin' smog check

BigMike · « **Reply #445 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 11:21:37 AM »

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on Sep 16, 2004, 06:48:36 AM

Whats a smog check again?

For those of you who dont live in CA and dont know what it is, I've gone ahead and searched on http://www.webster.com dictionary and here is the definition:

< the smog referee caused me to SUFFER during my SMOG CHECK >
3 : to spread or rise anti-government propaganda regarding vehicle use
4 : to inhale and exhale the fumes of burning vehicle material through a test tube; especially designed to stiff you < the SMOG CHECK official stiffed me with the test tube up my ass >
transitive senses
1 a : FUMIGATE b : to drive (as mosquitoes) citizens to the edge of sucide by useless laws c : to steal or pawn money from licenced automobile drivers < I wasted my money again by smoging my car eventhough it is clean burning > d : to cure government budget problems by failing vehicles for no apparent reason to charge for a retest e : to stupefy (as bees) by telling the owner his vehicle has passed the snif test but failed the visual inspection < Even though my vehicle is in the top 5% of clean air vehicles, I have failed the SMOG CHECK because my air filter was of a conic shape. >
archaic
2 a: VISUAL RESTRICTIONS b : C.A.R.B. California Air Resource Board c : Gaining control over vehicle owners through governmental laws
3 : to exhaust your time doing repairs < I had to replace my oil cap due to VISUAL RESTRICTIONS under the CARB guidelines >
4 archaic : RIDICULE < California's smog program is a waste of time and I want to kill all of the Sierra Club members .

For More Information on "smog check" go to Britannica.com

Get the Top 10 Search Results for "smog check"[/list][/list]

So that's what a Smog Check is here in Cail. It really sucks and pisses me off

GrimReaper · « **Reply #446 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 12:35:46 PM »

Brandon · « **Reply #447 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 12:39:21 PM »

that's pretty good..

cool on going to the digital speedo, here is what I used:

kinda hard to see but it is in-line and has a gear to correct my speedometer for my gears as well, they calibrated it and installed it for $100.

BigMike · « **Reply #448 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 12:59:07 PM »

Hey man,

Marlin spent a while trying to find something like that. I dont know if he was trying to use a stock part, or he knew about it but didnt want to use it, but you should have told him about it.

He needed one for the 3.4V6 Landcruise he just finished.

Anyways, the speedocable on my rig is DOA so why even replace it if I can just go electric anyways, so im not going to even use a mechanical cable..... but thanks for the pic!

Brandon · « **Reply #449 on:** Sep 16, 2004, 01:36:43 PM »

it's actually an american thread I guess, they say you can put american thread on either but you can't put metric on either. Whatever - it threaded on just fine. Does the job and got be through smog etc. I like the calibrated gear in there, I just go in and recalibrate once I get lower diff gears. I just can't decide how low to go in the diffs since I cruise at 80mph on the highway with no OD so I can't go too low..

Sorry for walking over your thread here

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