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I have searched the internet high and low, reached out to my dealer, and everything else. I can not for the life of me find the part number for the W-59 bell housing inspection plate/dust cover. Does anyone know it?
I can't be sure that this is the part you looking for but this is what I came up with:SEPARATOR, TRANSMISSION OIL(MTM) 33176-30020 $40.25
Keeping with the current topic of hard starts, mine didn't like to start when it was hot. I'm not sure if it's related to everyone else's issue because I only ran the truck one weekend before the water pump pulley spun on the crank.
http://www.2rzturbo.net/?p=77 search for "compressor".I assume you have AC controls and wiring. If not, you'll have to source the the controls. The wiring should be there.Largely, you've got two options:1) Use your 22RE compressor and the 2RZ/3RZ AC mount. You need to convert the clutch of the compressor to a 4-rib pulley, which is standard on 1st gen MR2s (I found indications that it may be common on 4-cylinder mustangs late 80s).2) Use the 2rz/3rz compressor and build custom AC lines.... As you don't have AC lines, this may be a better option...The rest of it you'll have to add from another 4runner - standard AC parts like evaporator, condenser, dryer, etc. Use appropriate seals for R-134a and buy a new expansion valve if you really want to do the conversion right.You need to have the factory tach powered to trigger RPM on the AC amplifier.
How did that happen? Your saying this spuna bearing or did it overheat?
The inspection plate/dust cover is in 3 piecesUpper: 1135565011 (plate, rear end)Lower: 113610C010 (cover, flywheel housing under)Seal in between upper and lower: 1135475010 (seal, flywheel housing, dust)I was missing the lower cover and dust seal. Priced these out, shat a brick, then went back to the yard I got the engine from. Found the lower cover in the dirt in front of the donor, but no dust seal. RTV took care of it. Really the covers are just stamped flat tin pieces. Most any sheet metal cut to fit should take care of the lower cover. Upper is more complex.
I will bring my Toyota bolt bucket with me tomorrow. You can root through and pick out the ones you need.
I recently swapped a 3rz into my 87 4 runner. The engine was completely rebuilt, balance shafts deleted and the head machines for better air flow. The entire engine is brand new. I have an issue though I am hoping for some help on. I starts right up, no CEL and runs great. When I shut it off, it will not re start right away and seems to take an ever changing amount of time to re start. The fuel pump seems fine, it seems to be getting spark and it turns over great, but will not fire. Then randomly it eventually start. Does anyone have any idea where to start in order to find the issue. I am sure it is something I did. And thanks for everyone's help to this point. Without this forum I would still be struggling to start the swap.
The port on the evap in question originally went to the factory airbox above the air filter(filtered air no vacuum) so you could probably just add a filter to it since you don't have an air box. You can see in my pic the metal tube (factory Tacoma) that crosses over the radiator shroud connects it to the air box. The plug that is taped to the MAS sensor looks taped from factory and probably is not used. I'll check mine later but I think it's the same way. You definitely want to remove that "T" from the power steer idle up loop as it may be(most likely is) keeping it from working properly. Before you change/upgrade the steering setup, make sure your steering belt is tight and the steering "idle up" is functioning.
now that I think about it, I'm really not sure if that evap connection is pulling air from the air box or feeding (fumes)to it so I would recommend connecting it between the air filter and intake (like stock) just to be safe. I said filtered air non vacuum but I guess there would be a slight vacuum during acceleration on that hose.
Also in the same boat as about 100 others. Chilkat mounts have my engine leaning 10° to the passenger side. Have a 3/8 thick washer in there for a spacer. And it's still at 5°
So while attempting to address my low idle on cold start that I have been having lately. I took my throttle body and attached IAC off of my truck and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. After re-assembling everything and firing up my truck I am idling at 2500 RPM that then creeps to above 3k RPM within 30 seconds. Everything is re-attached and I don't see where I could have caused a vacuum leak. I'm wondering if the throttle body cleaner I used toasted the IAC sensor. This one in particular:Which is attached the IAC which is attached the the throttle body.
I've seen conflicting information and need a definite answer: does the 2tr bell housing definitely work to connect the R151f to a 3rz? Some have said (posts on pirate4x4) that they wear out components perhaps because there's not enough input shaft engagement. Any long-term experience with this?
Posting this from my build thread to see if anyone has ever come across this or has any help to offer. Thanks
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