Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 911312 times)

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1320 on:** Apr 27, 2015, 01:02:09 PM »

I have searched the internet high and low, reached out to my dealer, and everything else. I can not for the life of me find the part number for the W-59 bell housing inspection plate/dust cover. Does anyone know it?

helipilot77 · « **Reply #1321 on:** Apr 27, 2015, 09:05:41 PM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Apr 27, 2015, 01:02:09 PM

I have searched the internet high and low, reached out to my dealer, and everything else. I can not for the life of me find the part number for the W-59 bell housing inspection plate/dust cover. Does anyone know it?

I can't be sure that this is the part you looking for but this is what I came up with:
SEPARATOR, TRANSMISSION OIL(MTM) 33176-30020 $40.25

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1322 on:** Apr 27, 2015, 09:08:25 PM »

Quote from: helipilot77 on Apr 27, 2015, 09:05:41 PM

I can't be sure that this is the part you looking for but this is what I came up with:
SEPARATOR, TRANSMISSION OIL(MTM) 33176-30020 $40.25

Hmmm it doesn't have any dealings with oil so that is my hesitation. I'll take it in to the dealer and see what it comes up with though. They will have a blow up showing what it is and if it is correct or not. I didn't think to try the Auto LiveOak. That is a good call as well!

Mudslide · « **Reply #1323 on:** Apr 28, 2015, 10:00:51 PM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Apr 27, 2015, 01:02:09 PM

I have searched the internet high and low, reached out to my dealer, and everything else. I can not for the life of me find the part number for the W-59 bell housing inspection plate/dust cover. Does anyone know it?

The inspection plate/dust cover is in 3 pieces
Upper: 1135565011 (plate, rear end)
Lower: 113610C010 (cover, flywheel housing under)
Seal in between upper and lower: 1135475010 (seal, flywheel housing, dust)

I was missing the lower cover and dust seal. Priced these out, shat a brick, then went back to the yard I got the engine from. Found the lower cover in the dirt in front of the donor, but no dust seal. RTV took care of it. Really the covers are just stamped flat tin pieces. Most any sheet metal cut to fit should take care of the lower cover. Upper is more complex.

RyanV · « **Reply #1324 on:** May 02, 2015, 07:12:10 AM »

Quote from: Leady on Apr 14, 2015, 05:49:57 AM

Keeping with the current topic of hard starts, mine didn't like to start when it was hot. I'm not sure if it's related to everyone else's issue because I only ran the truck one weekend before the water pump pulley spun on the crank.

How did that happen? Your saying this spuna bearing or did it overheat?

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1325 on:** May 05, 2015, 09:14:45 AM »

I'm wondering what I would need to do to add A/C to my 3RZ swap in my 85 4Runner? My truck did not have A/C before the swap I don't know if that makes a difference or not.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1326 on:** May 05, 2015, 03:08:11 PM »

http://www.2rzturbo.net/?p=77 search for "compressor".

I assume you have AC controls and wiring. If not, you'll have to source the the controls. The wiring should be there.
Largely, you've got two options:
1) Use your 22RE compressor and the 2RZ/3RZ AC mount. You need to convert the clutch of the compressor to a 4-rib pulley, which is standard on 1st gen MR2s (I found indications that it may be common on 4-cylinder mustangs late 80s).
2) Use the 2rz/3rz compressor and build custom AC lines.... As you don't have AC lines, this may be a better option...

The rest of it you'll have to add from another 4runner - standard AC parts like evaporator, condenser, dryer, etc. Use appropriate seals for R-134a and buy a new expansion valve if you really want to do the conversion right.

You need to have the factory tach powered to trigger RPM on the AC amplifier.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1327 on:** May 05, 2015, 03:15:14 PM »

Quote from: dcg9381 on May 05, 2015, 03:08:11 PM

http://www.2rzturbo.net/?p=77 search for "compressor".

I assume you have AC controls and wiring. If not, you'll have to source the the controls. The wiring should be there.
Largely, you've got two options:
1) Use your 22RE compressor and the 2RZ/3RZ AC mount. You need to convert the clutch of the compressor to a 4-rib pulley, which is standard on 1st gen MR2s (I found indications that it may be common on 4-cylinder mustangs late 80s).
2) Use the 2rz/3rz compressor and build custom AC lines.... As you don't have AC lines, this may be a better option...

The rest of it you'll have to add from another 4runner - standard AC parts like evaporator, condenser, dryer, etc. Use appropriate seals for R-134a and buy a new expansion valve if you really want to do the conversion right.

You need to have the factory tach powered to trigger RPM on the AC amplifier.

No my truck is a DLX and never has had AC. That is a

load of work. Looks like its just tube doors for me

Leady · « **Reply #1328 on:** May 05, 2015, 05:46:08 PM »

Quote from: RyanV on May 02, 2015, 07:12:10 AM

How did that happen? Your saying this spuna bearing or did it overheat?

It overheated. the water pump part of the oem crank pulley has rubber between it and the center portion of the pulley. That rubber broke free and the crank pulley wasn't turning the water pump anymore. It did end up with torn up balance shaft bearings and a spun rod bearing as a result. I've since deleted the balance shafts and replaced the oem pulley with an LCE crank pulley that is machined aluminum, so I'll never have that issue again.

Leady · « **Reply #1329 on:** May 05, 2015, 05:53:36 PM »

Here is my current issue. Hopefully you guys can help. Rebuilt the engine, reinstalled and hooked everything up. No power to fuel pump but I did have good spark and an injector pulse. No big deal I thought, powered the fuel pump and still didn't fire. Tried to follow the wiring from fuel pump to fuse box, was able to turn pump on from wire by fuel pump again. Checked all fuses and to see if fuel was getting through the rail fine that all was good. Checked spark and injector pulse again, nothing this time. No power to distributor either. What the hell is going on in stumped.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1330 on:** May 11, 2015, 12:12:24 PM »

What determines spark fire on the early distributor based 2RZ? Is it a VR setup in the distributor itself or are those motors still crank triggered? VR sensors are self-powered, but I'm surprised that you have spark and injector pulse. How do you know the injectors are working?

If you have spark and injector pulse, the typical cause of no-fire is timing... Distributor position make sense? IE, rotor facing #1 at TDC after the "suck" stroke?

The fuel pump is likely it's own issue. On the 4runner, the pump is activated by a relay that is turned on by grounding a pin at the AFM. I don't know if that helps. So likely the 2rz ecu controls the grounding of that relay to activate it. If you wire it in and removed an AFM, understand that removing that AFM may remove the circuit you're depending on.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1331 on:** May 14, 2015, 06:20:19 AM »

Quote from: Mudslide on Apr 28, 2015, 10:00:51 PM

The inspection plate/dust cover is in 3 pieces
Upper: 1135565011 (plate, rear end)
Lower: 113610C010 (cover, flywheel housing under)
Seal in between upper and lower: 1135475010 (seal, flywheel housing, dust)

I was missing the lower cover and dust seal. Priced these out, shat a brick, then went back to the yard I got the engine from. Found the lower cover in the dirt in front of the donor, but no dust seal. RTV took care of it. Really the covers are just stamped flat tin pieces. Most any sheet metal cut to fit should take care of the lower cover. Upper is more complex.

So ordered these and they showed up. I looked at the diagram associated with it and ordered bolts as well. Well sure enough they are definitely not the right ones (about half the size of the ones I need). Do you happen to know the P/N for the bolts that go into the bell-housing for the inspection plate?

helipilot77 · « **Reply #1332 on:** May 14, 2015, 07:20:39 PM »

I will bring my Toyota bolt bucket with me tomorrow. You can root through and pick out the ones you need.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1333 on:** May 14, 2015, 07:22:52 PM »

Quote from: helipilot77 on May 14, 2015, 07:20:39 PM

I will bring my Toyota bolt bucket with me tomorrow. You can root through and pick out the ones you need.

Sorry I should have posted. I found the part numbers and ordered through Toyota. Thanks for the offer though brother.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #1334 on:** May 27, 2015, 06:17:40 AM »

First I want to to thank BigMike and all of you guys that have helped this tread with useful information. I've been reading it and re reading it for about 3 years now. My 1st gen will be together this weekend. I have a few questions that I cannot seem to find the answer to.
BigMike previously posted that ALL gauge clusters have vss output. My vehicle is an 83 sr5 2wd with an sas. If I understood you correctly the ecm responds to the vss output and adjusts the engines performance. What does it change?
This should be it.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=2973.0
Also in the same boat as about 100 others. Chilkat mounts have my engine leaning 10° to the passenger side. Have a 3/8 thick washer in there for a spacer. And it's still at 5°

GRW · « **Reply #1335 on:** May 28, 2015, 05:45:14 AM »

Not sure on your gauges, unless you are talking about the tach feed...
If it's the tach, it depends on the year of Taco.

As for the motor lean, what location are you using to check?
It's been a while but I thought it was the power steering reservoir that is level not the motor?

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #1336 on:** Jun 02, 2015, 08:22:51 PM »

Yes sir was measuring the reservoir. Got it sorted out had to modify mounts. Been looking at schematics think wiring is planned out now. But not quite there yet

j4wheelintoys · « **Reply #1337 on:** Jun 05, 2015, 05:30:03 PM »

I figured this issues out. It was caused by my IACV, it was stuck and after taking it apart and freeing up the valve inside it is perfect. If anyone else this issue this might be a place to look into. Thanks for the help and see you all on the trails

Quote from: j4wheelintoys on Mar 12, 2015, 03:46:04 PM

I recently swapped a 3rz into my 87 4 runner. The engine was completely rebuilt, balance shafts deleted and the head machines for better air flow. The entire engine is brand new. I have an issue though I am hoping for some help on. I starts right up, no CEL and runs great. When I shut it off, it will not re start right away and seems to take an ever changing amount of time to re start. The fuel pump seems fine, it seems to be getting spark and it turns over great, but will not fire. Then randomly it eventually start. Does anyone have any idea where to start in order to find the issue. I am sure it is something I did. And thanks for everyone's help to this point. Without this forum I would still be struggling to start the swap.

85inprogress · « **Reply #1338 on:** Jun 05, 2015, 06:28:17 PM »

So I need help.96 2rz swap working out the wiring. I have the full wiring harness (I think) I'm missing the E6 plug for the ECU I checked the wiring harness from the ECU to engine. It was untouched now the dash wiring is a totally different story. I check my factory wiring diagram book one part of it show that it for the crankshaft positioning sensor. But where it shows all the plugs it doesn't show an E6 plug to ECU only for the 3rz. So I would assume that if it was for the crankshaft positioning sensor then it same harness as the E5 and E7 plug. So where the heck should the E6 plug be?

87pickup · « **Reply #1339 on:** Jul 21, 2015, 12:47:22 PM »

Do all of the 2002-2004 3rz have the purge tank or just the ones meeting California emissions requirements I have a 2002 3rz from a 2002 cali tacoma that i used on a trailered rig that now has gone into a 87 4Runner. I never had the emissions stuff hooked up in the last vehicle but the 4 runner I would like to have registered. The 4Runner has a fuel cell that I doubt could be made to work with the purge tank so Is it possible to convert the motor to a non cali emissions style since I live in az? If so what's involved?

Worst case I could build a new tank and incorporate the tacoma purge tank and all that crap to get rid of the check engine light. Will a 2rz purge tank and sensors work on a 3rz?

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1340 on:** Aug 23, 2015, 08:08:34 PM »

Couple of head scratchers for the knowledge base.

1. I have a unconnected port on my EVAP that I have been trying to find a home for since I got this swap done. I recently attempted to tap into what I thought was a vacuum line but I recently found out while researching my steering box problems (I'll get to that). That it is actually a idle up line that is triggered from steering input. So I have replaced the line that I had spliced into and am now back to having this port hooked up to nothing. I understand that in the stock setting it is plumbed into the plumbing before the throttle body. I'm wondering if I'm good to just splice into a proper vacuum nearby like I had initially planned when I did this or if there is a better place to run a line from to this evap port. Pictures below:

The port in question:

This was my previous "fix" which really wasn't one after all:

2. My other question is regarding my mass air flow hookups. I have the main hookup connected to my mass air flow, however there is a secondary hookup that the guys who did my swap don't have hooked up to anything and simply have taped down to the wire harness of the main hookup. What is this suppose to hook up to and what is it causing by not having it hooked up? The part in question:

3. My last question is in regards to power steering. I am having an issue with my 3RZ swap in that I have a very hard time steering when the weight is on the front of the vehicle when wheeling and when in rocks. I am hearing a audible whining to go with the difficulty steering. I am reading that a common swap is to put in a TC style pump out of a jeep or the PSC kit. I'm looking for advice in this department as to what to do to solve it. Would love to hear from some of you that have solved the same problem. Thanks as always fellas! $Beer Chug\'n$

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1341 on:** Aug 24, 2015, 07:09:38 AM »

Quote from: liveoak on Aug 24, 2015, 07:06:00 AM

The port on the evap in question originally went to the factory airbox above the air filter(filtered air no vacuum) so you could probably just add a filter to it since you don't have an air box. You can see in my pic the metal tube (factory Tacoma) that crosses over the radiator shroud connects it to the air box. The plug that is taped to the MAS sensor looks taped from factory and probably is not used. I'll check mine later but I think it's the same way. You definitely want to remove that "T" from the power steer idle up loop as it may be(most likely is) keeping it from working properly. Before you change/upgrade the steering setup, make sure your steering belt is tight and the steering "idle up" is functioning.

Already removed the t and replaced that hose. I'll look into a filter for the evap port. Going to try flushing the power steering fluid and replacing it with atf. Belts are tight.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1342 on:** Aug 24, 2015, 08:12:31 AM »

Quote from: liveoak on Aug 24, 2015, 07:46:57 AM

now that I think about it, I'm really not sure if that evap connection is pulling air from the air box or feeding (fumes)to it so I would recommend connecting it between the air filter and intake (like stock) just to be safe. I said filtered air non vacuum but I guess there would be a slight vacuum during acceleration on that hose.

Interesting. I wonder why it would feed fumes to it?

RyanV · « **Reply #1343 on:** Sep 12, 2015, 04:09:23 PM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on May 27, 2015, 06:17:40 AM

Also in the same boat as about 100 others. Chilkat mounts have my engine leaning 10° to the passenger side. Have a 3/8 thick washer in there for a spacer. And it's still at 5°

If you're using the Chilkat bracket you need 1" of spacer on the passenger side bracket and you'll have to remove the drive side engine mount cover shield. If you notch the passenger side bracket engine mount hole down towards the block an inch or so, you will be able to let the engine rock towards the passenger side and the engine mount stud will slide down into the chilkat bracket. It's actually easy to do yourself. I did it about 30 times trying to get it spot on.

I think it'd be easier for me to make a quick video explaining what we had to do.

RyanV · « **Reply #1344 on:** Sep 12, 2015, 04:22:54 PM »

Safety Warning regarding EVAP charcoal cans and this swap.

Make sure the vent line from the charcoal canister that goes straight down to the frame is extended AWAY from the exhaust manifold and downpipe. I have my line venting about halfway down the frame far away from the exhaust manifold.

Pat · « **Reply #1345 on:** Oct 10, 2015, 07:42:35 AM »

Ok, Can't find it. But wasn't there some 3rz/2rz auto's with the crank not machined for the pilot bearing. If you have a link let me know. thanks

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1346 on:** Oct 15, 2015, 07:12:43 AM »

Posting this from my build thread to see if anyone has ever come across this or has any help to offer. Thanks

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Oct 15, 2015, 07:11:39 AM

So while attempting to address my low idle on cold start that I have been having lately. I took my throttle body and attached IAC off of my truck and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. After re-assembling everything and firing up my truck I am idling at 2500 RPM that then creeps to above 3k RPM within 30 seconds. Everything is re-attached and I don't see where I could have caused a vacuum leak. I'm wondering if the throttle body cleaner I used toasted the IAC sensor. This one in particular:

Which is attached the IAC which is attached the the throttle body.

rockymtn89 · « **Reply #1347 on:** Oct 24, 2015, 10:21:52 AM »

I've seen conflicting information and need a definite answer: does the 2tr bell housing definitely work to connect the R151f to a 3rz? Some have said (posts on pirate4x4) that they wear out components perhaps because there's not enough input shaft engagement. Any long-term experience with this?

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1348 on:** Oct 24, 2015, 10:42:08 AM »

Quote from: rockymtn89 on Oct 24, 2015, 10:21:52 AM

I've seen conflicting information and need a definite answer: does the 2tr bell housing definitely work to connect the R151f to a 3rz? Some have said (posts on pirate4x4) that they wear out components perhaps because there's not enough input shaft engagement. Any long-term experience with this?

I know it works. Pretty sure Mike and marlin are both running that setup without a hitch...

RyanV · « **Reply #1349 on:** Nov 04, 2015, 01:42:27 PM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Oct 15, 2015, 07:12:43 AM

Posting this from my build thread to see if anyone has ever come across this or has any help to offer. Thanks

Did you try resetting the ECU? Check your throttle cable?

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