Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 911223 times)

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1440 on:** Aug 01, 2016, 01:10:48 PM »

Quote from: onemanarmy on Aug 01, 2016, 12:56:08 PM

So somehow my power steering pulley came loose and stripped the splines. So now the pump AND the pulley are no good.

I see that pumps are a dime a dozen (new and reman) but don't come with a pulley. And new Toyota pulleys are expensive.

So I'm trying to track down an used OEM......I have a 2000 3RZ in my 85 4runner. Are all the 3rz pumps the same....throughout the years and models (tacoma, 4 runner, anything else)? I need to know what year ranges to narrow my search down to if they are not.

Thanks

That pump is absolute crap. Count it as a blessing and excuse to upgrade to a TC pump. Get the chillkat bracket and PSC tc pump. Thank me later

onemanarmy · « **Reply #1441 on:** Aug 01, 2016, 01:28:08 PM »

well OK then.

any particular vendor to go through?

I just have 31s and DD it most of the time....not sure I need some crazy overkill steering.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1442 on:** Aug 01, 2016, 01:48:22 PM »

Quote from: onemanarmy on Aug 01, 2016, 01:28:08 PM

well OK then.

any particular vendor to go through?

I just have 31s and DD it most of the time....not sure I need some crazy overkill steering.

In that case stock pump is fine.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #1443 on:** Aug 01, 2016, 01:56:39 PM »

where ya at, I have a few

onemanarmy · « **Reply #1444 on:** Aug 01, 2016, 07:26:04 PM »

Quote from: ovrarok on Aug 01, 2016, 01:56:39 PM

where ya at, I have a few

Raleigh NC.

Need the pump with the reservoir and pulley.

swilson · « **Reply #1445 on:** Aug 03, 2016, 11:33:14 AM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Aug 01, 2016, 01:10:48 PM

That pump is absolute crap. Count it as a blessing and excuse to upgrade to a TC pump. Get the chillkat bracket and PSC tc pump. Thank me later

What pulley do you use with that setup?

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1446 on:** Aug 03, 2016, 11:54:39 AM »

Quote from: swilson on Aug 03, 2016, 11:33:14 AM

What pulley do you use with that setup?

PSC sells one or you can get one for a Jeep Cherokee will work too.

Carolina82 · « **Reply #1447 on:** Aug 03, 2016, 05:14:02 PM »

Finally got mine back together after it burned a valve. 3RZ valve adjustment was a learning experience but I got it figured. All I can say is WOW, this thing runs great and has tons of power. Worth every penny. Still have to mount the ecu/ a couple relays, tie up some loose ends and it'll be ready for some serious miles.

onemanarmy · « **Reply #1448 on:** Aug 20, 2016, 09:23:54 AM »

Quote from: ovrarok on Aug 01, 2016, 01:56:39 PM

where ya at, I have a few

Got the pump in that you sent me. Works great.

Thanks a ton.

Now, when I was changing out the pump, I noticed my motor was leaning a bit to the passenger side (3rz from a 2000 taco in place of the 1985 22re....I bought the truck with the swap already done)

It appears that the passenger side motor mount has given up, and the entire drivetrain is leaning and moving around. I don't know what was used as far as motor mounts goes, but it looks like factory 22re mounts. I've read through this entire thread and I think using the stock mounts is possible.

I added a few pics, can any one venture a guess what was used? (pics are of the driver side)

Thanks

OVRAROK · « **Reply #1449 on:** Aug 20, 2016, 09:30:53 AM »

Quote from: onemanarmy on Aug 20, 2016, 09:23:54 AM

Got the pump in that you sent me. Works great.

Thanks a ton.

Now, when I was changing out the pump, I noticed my motor was leaning a bit to the passenger side (3rz from a 2000 taco in place of the 1985 22re....I bought the truck with the swap already done)

It appears that the passenger side motor mount has given up, and the entire drivetrain is leaning and moving around. I don't know what was used as far as motor mounts goes, but it looks like factory 22re mounts. I've read through this entire thread and I think using the stock mounts is possible.

I added a few pics, can any one venture a guess what was used? (pics are of the driver side)

Thanks

from the pic, it looks like it de attached from frame, don't know if I'm seeing this correctly, if it is the rubber part of mount that is torn or broke, there is a newer mount from Toyota that is a little taller than the older style part # 12361-35091. I would get this mount. then after installed, get vehicle on flat surface and pull power steering cap, and throw a level on reservoir. it should be level

onemanarmy · « **Reply #1450 on:** Aug 20, 2016, 09:35:43 AM »

Thanks.

I think its still attached to the frame, and after reading some more, it appears that the stock rubber mount can be used (after the mounts on the frame are moved and welded....I think that is what is going on here)

Gonna go check a bit more now

The reservoir was level when I bought the truck...it s a bit unlevel now, and thats how I first spotted the problem.

SO>>

checked out the passenger side..

where the stock mounts had been modified, the weld broke. Looks to be bent a little, so there is a 50/50 shot all the bolt holes will line up after I weld it back together. Those Chillkat mounts look beefy, but I wonder if they would work due to the fact that my motor has already been placed in the engine bay.

84YotaBuck$$ · « **Reply #1451 on:** Sep 16, 2016, 10:22:39 AM »

Have everything in, exhaust on and running

Idle was running high, 1500-1800RPM, pulled the IAC to clean it and was in pretty bad shape so bought a new one. After installing the idle dropped to @850 but after a few seconds of running I get this funky thumping sound coming through the intake, sounds like something cycling back and forth and when I goose the throttle it stumbles for a second before picking up which it didn't do before. Seems like I swapped one problem for another, any ideas?

Read online that Fords had a similar issue and it was related to the throttle position sensor, currently that's probably my next step is to replace that.

Edit: Swapped the TPS, no go, same problem. Unplugged the IAC while truck was running and problem stopped, went back to my original issue of high idle, so either I got a bad IAC (Old one was frozen solid) or something else is going on. Took the IAC back to the parts store and will get a new one tomorrow to try. Did do the FSM procedure for the IAC and it appeared to not be working. Unplug Engine Temp sensor, with IAC plugged in turn ignition to on and it should open halfway, the one I had never moved from where it was with the power off. Could move the valve by hand easily and could feel the vibration of the solenoid/magnet going.

Here's a link to a YouTube Video I posted showing the problem
https://youtu.be/hy3vRcXF6TE

Trucker4life · « **Reply #1452 on:** Sep 17, 2016, 01:08:29 PM »

Looking for a little advice. I have been going over and over all the material I can find on doing this swap and ran into a little dilemma. I have an engine, wiring harness an ECM from a 99 Tacoma. I was told the motor had around 145K on it when it was pulled from the wrecked vehicle. It was then used in a buggy for about six months until it burned a couple of exhaust valves. I pulled the head and had a valve job done, inspected the rod bearings and peeped this motor for installation. A week ago I came across a wrecked 2000 4runner 3rz auto for 500 bucks so I could get all the miscellaneous parts I need. this 4runner has 220k on the clock and still runs strong still running strong. My dilemma, which motor do I go with? The 99, all ready prepped with fresh valve job, new seals and gaskets and oil pan conversion. haven't heard it run. Or the 2000 with 220k and still running strong.

Carolina82 · « **Reply #1453 on:** Sep 29, 2016, 05:50:53 PM »

Anyone who swapped a 3rz into a 1st gen pickup have problems with the drag link contacting the oil pan? My truck sit so low the drag link is about 1 1/2" from the oil pan on flat pavement. It has limited my flex ALOT. I've welded a temporary bump stop extension on the passenger side to keep it from crushing my oil pan. I can't go much further with the steering box so i'm trying to come up with something else.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #1454 on:** Nov 04, 2016, 07:53:52 PM »

Mine hit the oil pan when I hit bumps on the road. I raised the truck about 2 inches. It helps, bur I plan to do a slight drop pitman arm.

Racersk · « **Reply #1455 on:** Nov 09, 2016, 06:42:04 PM »

I have finally come to the end of the 1st reading of this thread. Wow, what a wealth of knowledge!!

So here is my unique situation...
Truck is a 94 base model 22RE 4x4 with a 4" suspension lift and IFS.
Engine is a 2 coil completely torn down 3RZ. It's all there, all but the ECU and harness. (Free for lifetime storage of engines and tranny's for a friend.)

My friend, a LONG time Toyota guru of mine I got the motor from is leaning towards running the 3RZ off of the 22RE ECU setup, at least temporarily until I need to swap out the harness. I have been looking and researching, trying to translate both journeys into $$$'s.

Plan A:
22RE ECU - 94 with bigger injectors and harness, bigger V6 AFM-running a dizzy style 3RZ engine. I would have to still slice in sensors, but I won't need cam sensors or dual O2's, basicly setting up a 2.7L 16V 22RE. I know I can tune it with the AFM, I have an A/F split second gauge in it now to help me tune.

Pros'- I have the harness. The rest is tried and true mechanical stuff. Less money- I would just need to swap out the 2 coil head for the dizzy version and then build the engine like normal. ($5-600) Engine harness plug n play to the truck
Con's- Less HP. 22RE low res ECU. Batch fired injectors. Harness is on the wrong side. will need to extend all wires to swap sides.

Plan B:
3RZ ECU - This is the tried and true path of sourcing a harness and matching ECU. ORS harness or similar to adapt it to the truck.

Pro's- documentation(it has been done). More HP and stock upgrades path. easier parts sourcing.
Con's - Pricey! (stock 3RZ harness $650. ECU 200-250. ORS harness- 650. Harness is on the wrong side for my truck.

1st, is plan A even a viable plan?

2nd, where the heck do you get a harness for resonable prices from?! If I can find a 97-2000 engine harness and ECU for a deal this is the prefered method for sure! I also want a 2nd 22RE harness so I can hack it up and spice it into the 3RZ harness befor it ever goes near the truck- I know I can do this- I wired a MS 2.2 into a 74 Corolla with a 2TGTEU in it!

Thanks for your input!!!

P

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #1456 on:** Nov 09, 2016, 07:48:03 PM »

i'm going to say that you will probably have all kinds of issues trying to run a 22re ecu with a 3rz. just not compatible but I could be wrong. Search http://car-part.com/index.htm

Racersk · « **Reply #1457 on:** Nov 14, 2016, 09:08:41 AM »

GREAT NEWS!

Pick N Pull had a 2wd 2000 2rz Tacoma! The harness was in EXCELLENT condition, minus the dash part. It had the x3 ECU connectors, but only a stump going to the dash...Was there supposed to be a body plug or 2 going into the truck, like my 94 truck has?!

Is there any online pin out charts that I have yet to find to ID these body harness wires coming off of the engine harness? I am currently tagging the 94 body plugs I scored from Pick N Pull as well, but out of the 21 wires, I found what 7 do so far by looking through the Toyota Electrical Wiring Manual I downloaded.

So far I found temp and oil lights and gauges, IG-, power and ground (main).

88sasturbotoy · « **Reply #1458 on:** Nov 23, 2016, 05:12:33 AM »

Quick question to solve a big problem of mine. I have a 94 pickup 22re that I swapped in a 98 tacoma 3rz with dual coil packs. Is there anyway to run this motor off the dash harness from the pickup without using a dash harness from the tacoma. As you probably guessed I can not find and don't have a dash harness from a tacoma. So im pretty much trying to make an Ors harness at home because I don't have 700 dollars to spend on a harness. So is this possible or not. Thanks

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #1459 on:** Dec 12, 2016, 07:30:10 AM »

My 1983 dash harness is running my 3rz. Yes you can make your existing harness work.

88sasturbotoy · « **Reply #1460 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 08:38:52 AM »

Hello again I got another help question.

Ok so I have my motor wired in and it cranks and I have fuel just can't seem to get spark. Is there any reason that I wouldn't be getting spark. Any help would be great. I have checked and re checked grounds and still nothing. I am not running my existing fuel pump and have a cell with external pump hooked to a switch. Would ecu not let spark happen if the ecu senses that the fuel pump is not there? Or any other reason like that? Any help would be very much appreciated

n6dlh · « **Reply #1461 on:** Dec 29, 2016, 07:18:26 AM »

Been a while since I checked into this thread. 3RZ still going strong. I eventually scrapped the custom pan and added a 2 inch motor lift brackets from 4crawler and dropped the fromt diff 1 inch. It clears the T100 pan with no issues.

onemanarmy · « **Reply #1462 on:** Mar 30, 2017, 10:47:51 AM »

Has anyone else battled with the hot start issue after the 3rz swap? Mine does fine except it own't start (cranks fine) if I drive it for a while on a warm/hot day, cut it off, and come back to it 10-15 mins later. Once it cools down, everything is fine. No other odd behavior besides that.

1999/2000 3rz with dual coil.

Some say its the coolant temp sensor at the back of the motor. Some say that its the intake air temp sensor, but that appears to only be a thing on 3rz with distributors. Either way, something is heat soaking and going haywire. Appears to be a problem on vehicles equipped with the 3rz stock as well.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #1463 on:** Mar 30, 2017, 11:22:39 AM »

Quote from: n6dlh on Dec 29, 2016, 07:18:26 AM

Been a while since I checked into this thread. 3RZ still going strong. I eventually scrapped the custom pan and added a 2 inch motor lift brackets from 4crawler and dropped the fromt diff 1 inch. It clears the T100 pan with no issues.

so you did 2" drivetrain lift on engine? 3rz, in what body style. I would like to lift engine a bit, but it looks like it will hit hood. also what engine mounts did you use, chilkat?

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #1464 on:** May 15, 2017, 09:39:02 AM »

I'm sure this has been asked and answered somewhere before but I have tried going through this thread several times to find the answer and between all the posts, links and what not I keep getting lost and not finding an exact answer. I have a 2000 2rz I'm getting ready to put in my '80 pickup. What is absolutely necessary to wire in for the swap to run properly. Basically I am looking for what is necessary to wire it stand alone. I will install the a/f and o2 sensors, cat and evap equipment, but is it necessary to wire in the gauges or can I just run mechanical gauges? I have a buggy dash with no speedo (just aftermarket gauges) that I'd like to swap in at the same time I've got the truck torn down. Anything else I should be aware of before I start this mess? Thanks in advance for any help.

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #1465 on:** May 16, 2017, 08:33:01 AM »

Quote from: liveoak on May 15, 2017, 10:39:25 AM

no, you don't need the gauges for it to work but you do need a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) signal https://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/misc-hardware/vehicle-speed-sensor-mci
you will also need to use a gas tank from an efi truck or modify yours with efi parts which will include adding a relay for the fuel pump, another relay for EFI and a return and vent line to the tank. i would retain the obd plug and add a check engine light to retain the ability to monitor and troubleshoot

Thanks for the info. I planed to keep the OBD and check engine light. I haven't decided which way I'm going to go on the fuel system yet. It will either be a cell or a Ford rear tank at the back of the frame. Either way I do plan to use an intank pump. This isn't my first EFI swap, its just my first Toyota swap and I found conflicting info on the gauges. I didn't think anything more than a VSS was needed, but I found reference to someone claiming that the gauge side of the ECM had to be wired in for it to operate correctly.

Trucker4life · « **Reply #1466 on:** Jun 07, 2017, 03:20:53 PM »

Took my 85 4runner 3rz swap to the Ref yesterday, failed on two things. I put the wrong cat on it, one for a 2.4l not 2.7l.(180 dollar Brian fart) The other issue was news to me. I must provide an invoice from the manufacturer confirming the PCM has been properly programed/flashed for the application 1999 Toyota Tacoma 2.7l California emissions. I was told this is something they just started this year but, I can not find any mention of it on the BAR web site. Any one else have to do this? Another $250 and I should be good to go.

84YotaBuck$$ · « **Reply #1467 on:** Jun 19, 2017, 03:25:30 PM »

G52 crapped out on me this weekend, 5th whining like crazy, 3rd not far behind. Looking to replace it with newer style transmission but kind of confused about which one. See that the W59 is the stock Tacoma transmission but need the adapter to make the gear drive transfer case mate up and see about 5 different versions of the W56 and on a few I don't see the spot for 4WD shifter? Is there another piece that mates up for that? Lasted almost a year after 3RZ swap so suppose I can't complain too much. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

seal13il · « **Reply #1468 on:** Jul 27, 2017, 07:12:40 AM »

I have been dreaming on dropping a 1KZ-TE in my 02 4runner..... she is so heavy (6600) that my oor 3.4 just cant handle it on the "off trail" driving and my MPG is at 10:(

toy_tek · « **Reply #1469 on:** Aug 17, 2017, 09:31:56 AM »

Quote

Thus far, I only have experience with the 1st (distributor) and 3rd/final (quad coil DIS) generations of the 3RZ, but as mentioned in my 6th paragraph, sometime this winter/spring, my co-worker Angelo will be putting a 1997 3RZ into his third gen (90s style) shortbed, and I will learn how to wire the 2nd generation 3RZ which is a twin coil DIS system.

Comparing the 1st to the 3rd gens, the 3rd gen (2000(?)-2004) is far easier to do the wiring because the interior fuse box can be eliminated much easier than with the 1st gen wiring (1995-1996). Also, surprisingly enough, there are fewer circuits to hook up with the newer system, however the purge canister now has 4 vacuum lines, two fuel tank lines, and two vacuum solenoids (4 wires there) as compared to the early system, which only had 1 fuel tank line and 1 vacuum line and 1 solenoid to hook up.

I have a line on a 1996 2wd auto 4runner engine, guy says it is a 2.7 3RZ and twin coil but I haven't seen it yet. First... does this sound correct? Second... does the 2nd gen have a interior fuse box like Mike refers to with the 3rd gen? I feel like I've seen info scattered around but haven't been able to pinpoint these answers. Is anyone able to clarify? thx in advance.

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