Author Topic: 20/22r hybrid (Read 10955 times)

pro86 · « **on:** Apr 06, 2003, 09:04:15 PM »

:thumb:

i put a 20r head on a 86 22r block and had great results. i had the head cut down, stage 4 port and polish, large 45.5 intake 37.5 exhaust valves, bigger seats, pro viton valve seals, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, stage 4 comp cam, holly street dominator intake manifold, holly 390 cfm four barrel vacume secondary carburetor, all of which was purchased from lc engineering, holly fuel pump and regulator, headman headers, 2.5 inch exhaust straight back to a summit pro flow muffler, msd 6al ignition, msd coil, and Taylor 8mm wires. after all of this work (mainly ripping out vacume and smog stuff) the results were excellent. i am now able to spin the tires through second gear and it feels awesome. if any questions about this topic arise let me know.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #1 on:** Apr 07, 2003, 12:34:41 PM »

:chug: :chug: :thumb:you should be pushing the 200hp mark, easy :~~: :~~:

drybone · « **Reply #2 on:** Apr 22, 2003, 01:41:01 PM »

That's all!!! :cry:
I have all the same stuff, but had the Motor built by D.O.A. racing. :up: Plus now I have 20 gallon sumped fuel cell, dual holley pumps, full Aeroquip fuel lines, a rare Downey tri-y into a mandrel bent 2.25. :~~: A giant K&N air system, a Griffin aluminum 2-core x-flow radiator with a modified Black Magic fan,

a underpulley drive kit, Dual Msd's with a custom distributor built by L.C. for this motor, A Marlin turbo flywheel and clutch,

and a full barage of Autometer guages to tell me what a fool i've been for dumping so much money into a four popper.

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

with all that said, it sounds like your on the right track.

:chug: :chug:
I love my Toyota too......

BigMike · « **Reply #3 on:** Apr 22, 2003, 07:51:41 PM »

pro86 and drybone,

[offtopic]PICS OF YOUR ENGINES RIGHT NOW PLEASE[/offtopic]

drybone · « **Reply #4 on:** Apr 23, 2003, 04:27:41 AM »

:heyhey:
give me a few weeks, I'm busy painting my truck with spray paint cans, Flat Camo Tan, and redoing all the wiring in the chassis and cab, so it doesn't burn to da grond :chug: :chug:

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 29, 2003, 05:32:23 AM »

:dunno:ok that rewire and paint job must be done, so wheres the pics of those engines???

drybone · « **Reply #6 on:** Aug 05, 2003, 02:36:56 PM »

It's still not done. I made the mistake of getting my girl a 85 4runner. I've put a 3" lift, to make room for her new pro-comp xterrrains on weld super singles, and she also wanted a complete MarlinBuilt, front,rear bumper and nerf bar system, so her truck has been stealing my time from my toy!!! I'll get some project pictures soon enough.

offroadmission · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 30, 2004, 02:48:52 PM »

Quote from: pro86 on Apr 06, 2003, 09:04:15 PM

:thumb:

i put a 20r head on a 86 22r block and had great results. i had the head cut down, stage 4 port and polish, large 45.5 intake 37.5 exhaust valves, bigger seats, pro viton valve seals, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, stage 4 comp cam, holly street dominator intake manifold, holly 390 cfm four barrel vacume secondary carburetor, all of which was purchased from lc engineering, holly fuel pump and regulator, headman headers, 2.5 inch exhaust straight back to a summit pro flow muffler, msd 6al ignition, msd coil, and Taylor 8mm wires. after all of this work (mainly ripping out vacume and smog stuff) the results were excellent. i am now able to spin the tires through second gear and it feels awesome. if any questions about this topic arise let me know.

interested in the 20/22r hybrid deal but without all of the frills and thrills that you have. all of that isn't necessary, is it?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #8 on:** Jun 30, 2004, 06:03:53 PM »

no

everything is a basic bolt on, take everything off your 22R block, timing chain, timing cover, head, and intake
keep your exhaust manifold, or use a header,
put a 20R timing kit on that 22 block, a 20R timing cover, a 20R head and intake, use 22R valves if you have a machine shop that can open those ports up a bit, but the stock 20R head is fine
if ,well more like when i do it again, i'll open up the valves to 45and 37 and use a .440 cam instead of the .460
my purpose for that?? shorter stroke of the valve in the guide, granted thats only .020" but

offroadmission · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 01, 2004, 12:27:05 PM »

will the carb off my 22r work with the 20r intake?

kyle_22r · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 01, 2004, 03:52:26 PM »

it's a good carb to use, but you'll need an adapter(toyotaperformance sells them for about 20 bucks i think)

also, you won't have to do all that modification if your 22R is an '81 or '82 with dual timing chains...

84runner · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 01, 2004, 04:31:29 PM »

You guys got all that done to your motors and your gonna wheel them

All I have in my 22R is a Cam and I plan on getting a header , I just fear all the upgrades will hurt the reliability of my rig

brainlessfool · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 01, 2004, 08:54:19 PM »

some will, some won't. the key is to not go for max HP. flow in and out do not afect the eng. insides. just don't over rev. it. BIG cams , lite rods, lite cranks, ect. sould just be left for the track guys.

lal357 · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 05:02:30 AM »

iwas going to go that toute but didnt find much info on it i have a 20r in my 80 now and have a 82 donor truck for parts and some spare 22r blocks but chucked the thought out the door cuz thier wasnt enough info out at the other forums from guys that have done it before if ya'lll dont mind i'm gonna bombard ya'll with questions to make sure i have all the right parts from all this mess i have lying around here

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 06:26:05 AM »

dude just bolt all your 20R parts on that 22R block, if its the early 22 its just a quick bolt on deal

22short block+20R timing kit+20Rhead and intake+header or 22exhaust manifold

oh yea use the timing cover from the 20R also, on top of that 20R head use 22R rockers and i used the 22R valve cover cause the rockers were hitting the 20R valve cover with my LC engineering .460 lift cam

kyle_22r · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 10:34:43 PM »

i don't think you even need the 20R timing gear on a pre-83 motor. back then, i'm pretty sure the 22R still had steel timing guides $Beer Chug\'n$

Marlin · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 12:41:12 AM »

Just for the record, 1981 22Rs were the only, and the last year for the double row timing chain with steel guides. It uses the same 98 row timing chain set as the '75 to '80 20R.
'82 thur '84 22R blocks have a recess drilled in all 4 timing guide bolt holes for the special plastic timing guide bolts that have a oversized collar to fit the bore of the plastic guides.
Since all '75 thur '84 motors use the wide double row style timing cover, upgrading to a double wide setup is pretty staight forward.

Marlin

84runner · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 04:25:07 PM »

Well that is good to know that all I have to do is switch out the cahin and guides. Learn something new everyday, but is it necesary to run a double chain or is it just extra ?

brainlessfool · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 10, 2004, 07:39:49 AM »

I put it on my 22R last year. not a must do butt if your in the area, why would'ant you? It is a better chain

lowgeared · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 10, 2004, 08:28:28 AM »

One more thing to remember....on my 84 22r I had to change the oil pump drive spline to the early 20r shorter version so the double crank gear would align when I swapped in the double roller and steel guides.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 05, 2004, 10:06:52 AM »

or just have the spline end machined down to the right length

yes i would swap to the double chain, lots stronger

Marlin · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 05, 2004, 02:29:03 PM »

Yes it is stronger, but it also weights twice as much

I used to always push the double wide chains, but now I lean toward a single chain with steel guides.

Marlin

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