Author Topic: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"  (Read 17176 times)

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toyodaaddict

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #90 on: Aug 20, 2018, 12:50:42 PM »
I will say that it makes me feel better knowing I'm not the only one running higher temps. I still don't think 200+ is ideal for a 22re though.

I've been daily driving a 22R (stock engine/radiator) for almost 10 years. It runs a constant 180-185. A couple years after I got it I blew a head gasket. I new something was wrong when the temp hit 190, sure enough blown head gasket. The temp is always so consistent that I new right away something was up when it hit 190.

Ted at Engnbldr says "190-200 is normal for a 22re, above 215 is dangerous."

LC Engineering told me "205+ is head gasket territory".

Jerry at 22reperformance  said "190-192 is the safe range"

Plenty of people on this forum saying their 22re's run between 180-190 under all conditions.

At this point I'm done babying it, I'm just going to drive it.  Thanks for the boost of confidence guys  :thumbs:
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

Toy(Yota)

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #91 on: Aug 23, 2018, 01:39:12 PM »
Ok awesome good to know! Was the weather hot in Moab the whole time you were there?
1985 4runner, 88 body, trussed, locked, single 4.7s and twin stick. Cool paint and 35Ē Baja Claws

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #92 on: Feb 12, 2019, 03:23:58 PM »
I woke up to find this  :thumbdown:



A couple new dents but it survives to wheel another day



This is the walk way out the back door. 26" and still coming down hard in Hobart WA.




 
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #93 on: Feb 13, 2019, 08:14:05 AM »
That sucks
Sorry to hear that
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #94 on: Feb 13, 2019, 02:48:56 PM »
That sucks
Sorry to hear that


I'm just grateful it wasn't worse.
The tent had a metal tube frame.  one of the tubes landed on the sun roof and crushed the roof in a couple inches, where the tube hit it. I can't believe the sunroof and windshield didn't break. A lot of the damage to the roof popped out when I got the tent off. Hopefully I will have some luck popping out the rest.

80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #95 on: Feb 13, 2019, 02:51:53 PM »
I remember hearing somewhere that you can use boiling water to pop dents. I have my doubts but I may give that a try when the weather warms up.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #96 on: Feb 13, 2019, 07:53:48 PM »
I remember hearing somewhere that you can use boiling water to pop dents. I have my doubts but I may give that a try when the weather warms up.
Any interest in coming with us to Tahuya on Feb 23rd?
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #97 on: Feb 14, 2019, 10:29:45 AM »

Any interest in coming with us to Tahuya on Feb 23rd?

I've never been to Tahuya. Unfortunately I cant make this one. Hopefully I can make a run with you guys in the spring.



80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #98 on: Oct 14, 2019, 06:16:52 PM »
Well, it looks like most of my build thread has fallen victim to Photo Phucket. Trying to get the pics back up should be fun.


The truck idles rough when the headlights or heater are on.  In an attempt to reduce resistance in the wiring, I replaced all my battery cables and grounds. I used 2 gauge welding cable, tinned ring terminals and marine shrink tube.









80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #99 on: Oct 14, 2019, 06:20:54 PM »
Trying some LED brake/tail lights and front marker lights.  I really want a set of the Truck Lite LED headlights.






80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #100 on: Oct 14, 2019, 06:25:53 PM »
This is where I am now.
I did have one success, Got the VSS hooked up, so no more VSS code. The brake signal to ECU has never been hooked up, I don't get a code without it. I'm not sure if there is any reason to hook it up but I may give it a try.

80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #101 on: Oct 15, 2019, 04:46:24 PM »
I am wanting to up the ALT B+ charge wire to 6 gauge.

I'm thinking my charging system could be wired better than it is. Most of what I am reading says I should run the "sense" wire up closer to the battery. It is currently tapped into the B+ charge wire, about two feet from the ALT.

This is how things are wired now.




Based on what I've read, I'm thinking something like this may be better.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml
http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic...voltagesensing



I could really use some suggestions and reassurance here, I don't want to burn up my truck.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

helipilot77

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #102 on: Oct 20, 2019, 07:32:13 AM »
I would definitely recommend upgrading the alternator to battery lead. After years of heavy service they start to collect corrosion between the strands of copper. 6 gauge should be plenty. I would recommend having a fuse between the battery and everything that isn't the starter. For your sensing wire put it after the fuse.
« Last Edit: Oct 20, 2019, 09:10:52 AM by helipilot77 »
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toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #103 on: Oct 20, 2019, 12:04:52 PM »
I would definitely recommend upgrading the alternator to battery lead. After years of heavy service they start to collect corrosion between the strands of copper. 6 gauge should be plenty. I would recommend having a fuse between the battery and everything that isn't the starter. For your sensing wire put it after the fuse.

Thanks for the input helipilot.  I definitely want to get everything fused. None of the main power wires where fused when the EFI swap was done and The truck almost burned over it.  I added this gutted fuse box from a 2nd gen truck, in an attempt to get the main power wires fused. I am learning this electrical stuff as I go.




So you're saying to hook up the sense wire after the fuse, down stream of the battery, like this ?




I know this is pretty basic stuff but I'm really struggling to understand the best way to set this up.

This is another idea I had, using fusible links and a power junction.

80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

helipilot77

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #104 on: Oct 20, 2019, 06:12:04 PM »
So you're saying to hook up the sense wire after the fuse, down stream of the battery, like this ?

Yeah. Those both look good. like you said you just don't want things to burn down.  :thumbs:
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #105 on: Oct 21, 2019, 05:10:28 PM »
Yeah. Those both look good. like you said you just don't want things to burn down.  :thumbs:

Thanks, you're giving me the confidence to start hooking things up.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #106 on: Jul 15, 2020, 05:50:59 PM »
"Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic."  Guess its been a while.

I re wired the ALT and fused the main power wires with MIDI fuses. I upgraded the charge wire to 6 awg and ran it and the sense wire to the power distribution bar, where everything is fused. I also Added a Blue sea fuse block (part 5045), that I will use to power any accessories I may add.



I found some of the soldered joints from the EFI swap where not looking so good. I'm not sure what exactly caused this, lack of marine shrink tube, mildly corrosive solder possibly?



I stripped down the harness and re did all the joints with BMW butt connectors and marine shrink tube. I also put a small shot of kester 245 no clean solder in the center where the wires come together (not shown in the pic). I was worried about using a solder that was possibly corrosive, so I contacted Kester. This was the response I got.

 "44 is a good general purpose flux but for an automotive application I would recommend the no-clean 245 over that if you are just soldering copper wires. 44 is rated ROM1, where 245 is ROL0. If the residues are going to see the heat and moisture associated with automotive you will have a lower corrosion risk with 245. Iím not saying that 44 WILL corrode, itís just that 44 is a stronger flux and there is a lesser risk with 245."

BMW connector part numbers
  61138353746 - 0.2-0.5 MM≤
  61138353747 - 1.0-0.75 MM≤ (16-18 gauge)
  61138353748 - 1.5-2.5 MM≤ (12-14 gauge)
  61136931481  4-6 MM≤

« Last Edit: Jul 15, 2020, 06:58:48 PM by toyodaaddict »
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #107 on: Jul 15, 2020, 06:17:28 PM »
While I was into the wiring, I hooked up the VSS wire(vehicle speed sensor) and the brake signal to the ECU. With these wires disconnected I had a VSS code and when coming to a quick stop my idle would dip down low, like 4-500 RPM and then smooth out. With these wires hooked up those issues seem to be fixed.

This was posted on SqWADoosh's build. I would like to know where this came from as it is some really good info. The internet likes to say that the VSS and STP wires are not needed but that sure seems to be incorrect, if you want things to work right.  What is posted on SqWADoosh's build is the only info I have found that describes the importance of of these wires.


80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #108 on: Jul 15, 2020, 06:25:43 PM »
Installed a voltmeter and put things back together.



80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #109 on: Jul 15, 2020, 06:56:46 PM »
After all that, my volts at the battery are 14.37  with headlights off, 14.36 headlights on, 14.36 headlights/high beams on. So that's an improvement.

However, the truck still idles a little rough with the headlights or heater fan on.
 I have discovered that with the alternator belt REMOVED the truck idles great with the lights/heater on or off. I'm not sure what that means.  I don't know what else to do, so I turned the idle up to 1000RPM which makes it more tolerable. I guess it is what it is for now.  I'm gonna get out do some camping and run some trails. I have some other projects to get out of the way but I have some BIG  :turtle: upgrades waiting to be installed.

   

« Last Edit: Jul 15, 2020, 07:06:00 PM by toyodaaddict »
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #110 on: Jul 16, 2020, 03:56:02 AM »
After all that, my volts at the battery are 14.37  with headlights off, 14.36 headlights on, 14.36 headlights/high beams on. So that's an improvement.

However, the truck still idles a little rough with the headlights or heater fan on.


Hey toyodaaddict,


Over the years, in all my trucks, Iíve installed aftermarket AutoMeter gauges.  I prefer an ammeter to a voltmeter because it will show what is really going on with the output of the alternator, charging or discharging.  It will show any abnormal current draw, parasitic drain, and amps being put out by the alternator.

On your idle, it is perfectly normal for 100 HP Toyota 20/22 for the idle to drop several hundred RPMs when the alternator is pumping out current to power whatever devices are turned on.  Typically, an alternator will draw 1 HP for every 25 amps it puts out.  My 85 22R RPMs would drop 200 RPMs when I turned the headlights and fan on high.  So at 850 RPMs normal idle, at 650 RPMs the idle was not as smooth Ė but why does matter?

Some years back, my first 1986 22RE longbed, one day I noticed the ammeter was reading 40 amps after several minutes after a cold start. That was not normal.  I checked the battery voltage and it was perfect 14+. The battery was fairly new.  I checked the specific gravity with a hydrometer - perfectly normal.  I checked the alternator output Ė perfectly normal.  I cleaned the battery terminals and ground connections. It still read 40 amps.  Something was sucking power or there was a high resistance somewhere in the charging circuit.  I was mystified. There happened to be an Auto Electric shop down the street where worked. I stopped in one day after work and 3 ďexpertsĒ poured over my truck for about 1 hour.  They measured everything! Their voltmeter showed perfect voltage. They were mystified and said itís the ammeter.  I didnít think so, and I told them.

As I drove home, I had a gut feeling it was in the battery cables.  I bought new cables and was replacing them when I removed the positive cable the head of the clamp bolt busted out of the molded clamp.  I turned out that the head of the bolt when molded had a pocket. Corrosion built up inside and was not visible.  It was causing a high resistance and causing the alternator to put out more amps to compensate. 

A voltmeter did NOT read or detect that problem.

By the way, your truck is cats-a$$ machine!!  :thumbs:  :beerchug:

Gnarls.  :gap:

« Last Edit: Jul 16, 2020, 04:09:02 AM by Gnarly4X »
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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #111 on: Jul 18, 2020, 10:19:35 AM »
I recommend performing voltage drops on both battery cables.
Test from the battery post to the connection point. both positive and negative.
Also there should be a few additional grounds. back of the head to firewall. drivers side motor mount to wheel well? and another from the battery to the fender. I would check all of those also. When I first got My 4runner it would almost die when I would turn on any major power draw. I found that two of the additional grounds had been left off. I replaced them and problem was gone. night an day diff.
Good luck My friend. Love this truck.  :thumbs:
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #112 on: Jul 18, 2020, 12:58:32 PM »
I did the big 3 upgrade..google it.. :beerchug:
Even the most primitive society, has an intimate respect for the insane.

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #113 on: Jul 18, 2020, 06:09:53 PM »
While I was into the wiring, I hooked up the VSS wire(vehicle speed sensor) and the brake signal to the ECU. With these wires disconnected I had a VSS code and when coming to a quick stop my idle would dip down low, like 4-500 RPM and then smooth out. With these wires hooked up those issues seem to be fixed.

This was posted on SqWADoosh's build. I would like to know where this came from as it is some really good info. The internet likes to say that the VSS and STP wires are not needed but that sure seems to be incorrect, if you want things to work right.  What is posted on SqWADoosh's build is the only info I have found that describes the importance of of these wires.


I either posted that on Andrews thread or I provided him with it. I found it somewhere when I was researching my 3rz swap wiring. Here is my copy of the Toyota Input Sensors PDF https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zj5Fb2uOPbrqk34Hrtnj6tIwj95fyQkZ/view?usp=sharing
« Last Edit: Jul 18, 2020, 06:29:11 PM by liveoak »

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #114 on: Jul 18, 2020, 06:54:15 PM »
I did the big 3 upgrade..google it.. :beerchug:

I recommend performing voltage drops on both battery cables.
Test from the battery post to the connection point. both positive and negative.
Also there should be a few additional grounds. back of the head to firewall. drivers side motor mount to wheel well? and another from the battery to the fender. I would check all of those also. When I first got My 4runner it would almost die when I would turn on any major power draw. I found that two of the additional grounds had been left off. I replaced them and problem was gone. night an day diff.
Good luck My friend. Love this truck.  :thumbs:

Check out post 98 guys. I have replaced all grounds and battery cables with #2 welding cable. I have also now replaced the alternator charge wire with #6. I sanded all grounding points on the body to shiny metal. This was all done attempting to solve this issue.

Bestgen, the voltage drop test is to test the individual wires correct?
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

liveoak

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #115 on: Jul 18, 2020, 07:18:26 PM »
what alternator are you using? what size is the pulley on it? stock is about 2 3/4

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #116 on: Jul 18, 2020, 07:19:38 PM »
I either posted that on Andrews thread or I provided him with it. I found it somewhere when I was researching my 3rz swap wiring. Here is my copy of the Toyota Input Sensors PDF https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zj5Fb2uOPbrqk34Hrtnj6tIwj95fyQkZ/view?usp=sharing

Thank you  :bowdown: I just printed it out to add to my FSM. Looking forward to reading it.

80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #117 on: Jul 18, 2020, 07:20:28 PM »
what alternator are you using? what size is the pulley on it?

I think it's a remanufactured denso from napa.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

liveoak

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #118 on: Jul 18, 2020, 07:25:06 PM »
I think it's a remanufactured denso from napa.

you may want to try another alt for testing purposes. also, the stock pulley size is 2 3/4. if it's larger than that, it may not be spinning fast enough at idle

toyodaaddict [OP]

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Re: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"
« Reply #119 on: Jul 18, 2020, 07:37:30 PM »
you may want to try another alt for testing purposes. also, the stock pulley size is 2 3/4. if it's larger than that, it may not be spinning fast enough at idle

Probably a good idea. I've got an extra I can swap in there. It's kinda hard to read the tape down in there but the pulley does look to be 2 3/4".

Hey, dont you have a build thread on here? I cant find it.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

 
 
 
 
 

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