Topic: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"

[toyodaaddict]

Looks like I lost about 1/2" of compression slip on the driveline. I have 3 1/2" now, I think I should be good, what do you guys think? 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I'm tapping into power at the cigarette lighter to power the ARB compressor. This is what I came up with, so I dont have to cut any wires.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I have had good luck finding quality, factory style terminals and wiring supplies at these websites.

http://vintageconnections.com/

https://cycleterminal.com/

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

All caught up.

I'm currently repairing my buggered up steering stops.



 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

No more bungee cording my gas can down.

[Gnarly4X]

Hey T....

I love that color on your truck!!  One of my all time favorite colors for a vehicle.

If I had to paint my white '86, I hope you don't mind me painting it the same blue!!

Gnarls.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Hey T....

I love that color on your truck!!  One of my all time favorite colors for a vehicle.

If I had to paint my white '86, I hope you don't mind me painting it the same blue!!

Gnarls.

Thanks. I really wanted to stick with the factory blue but I'm real happy with this blue as well. At this point I dont think I even have a preference, they both look good. I wish I would have used a more durable paint though.

[Gnarly4X]

Thanks. I really wanted to stick with the factory blue but I'm real happy with this blue as well. At this point I dont think I even have a preference, they both look good. I wish I would have used a more durable paint though.

That blue is what I called during presentation graphics systems days "Sky Blue", and I like it way better than the Toyota factory color.

Gnarls.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Got some EMF tie rod ends EH! I ordered them in pairs and luckily got my second order in right before they decided to stop making them. Hopefully they get back to making them eventually.

I'm just going to stash em away and install them as needed.

 

[OVRAROK]

Got some EMF tie rod ends EH! I ordered them in pairs and luckily got my second order in right before they decided to stop making them. Hopefully they get back to making them eventually.

I'm just going to stash em away and install them as needed.

 

Dang it.. you lucky guy.. im on a list right now..been waiting forever it seems,

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Dang it.. you lucky guy.. im on a list right now..been waiting forever it seems,

Nice, at least you got them ordered in time. I ordered the last pair April 16 and they showed up July 8.  At some point you mentioned them and they looked like the way to go to me  .  Did your springs show up yet?

[a1gemmel]

I love the truck, it looks great! Hopefully my pro-comp springs survive better than yours did. Looks like you took out more leaves than me...
Sorry you've been having so much trouble with the charging system.
Know anything about the GM alternator conversion? I'm looking at it for my truck for reliability and parts availability.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I love the truck, it looks great! Hopefully my pro-comp springs survive better than yours did. Looks like you took out more leaves than me...
Sorry you've been having so much trouble with the charging system.
Know anything about the GM alternator conversion? I'm looking at it for my truck for reliability and parts availability.

Thanks.

Yeah, I set myself up for failure with those pro comps. I've learned a lot about leaf springs since then. Yours look like they will hold up better, hopefully they aren't still to stiff.  Another problem I had with them in stock form was, I think pro comp used the factory spring length and added more arch, making them to short for the factory spring hangers. On the trail my shackles would pull forward and lock against the frame.

I haven't run a GM ALT. I was going to when I put the 20R in the Zuk but ended up going with a 70 amp internally regulated 22RE ALT.

[CB.TypeG]

I had the same problem with my ProComp lift springs, terrible shackle angle. Swapped my rears out for some longer Chevy springs. Thinking of making a "b*std pack" out of the rear ProComp main leaf and a set of OME 85 'Runner rear springs I picked up.

Great build thread man! Maybe I'll see ya on the trail someday after my truck is put back together.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Made a drive over Snoqualmie pass. Truck did good and pulled the pass well. Engine temp briefly got up to 205 at the steepest part of the climb. Ran between 180-200 the rest of the trip. 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Summer is almost here and the truck has been running good.

HOWEVER, my rear brakes have decided to start dragging and I need some help. I've only got around 5K miles since I changed the shoes and until recently they have been fine.

First time they did this I could feel the truck was down on power and when I got home the drums where hot and I could smell brakes. I crawled under there and used the star wheel to back the shoes off. The manual said I could use the Ebrake to adjust the shoes, so I pulled on the Ebrake  a bunch 

I took it for a couple short test drives and it seemed ok, until yesterday. 15 mile drive and again hot brakes. Now I've got the drums off and everything looks real good other than I think the shoes are glazed (can I bring them back with some sand paper?)

Any ideas what I might have going on? Only plan I have is to put it back together and see what happens.

[a1gemmel]

LSPV going bad (if you still have it). Not enough free play in the pedal, master is not opening to release pressure. Or your booster is getting stuck boosting. You can test those by jacking the rear up with the engine running, pumping the brake pedal a bunch of times, then checking if the rear tires are locked up once the pedal is released. Curious what other ideas people have for faults / diagnosing.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

LSPV going bad (if you still have it). Not enough free play in the pedal, master is not opening to release pressure. Or your booster is getting stuck boosting. You can test those by jacking the rear up with the engine running, pumping the brake pedal a bunch of times, then checking if the rear tires are locked up once the pedal is released. Curious what other ideas people have for faults / diagnosing.

Are you sure the LSPV can cause brake drag? Mine lightly seeps. Not enough to drip or even really be wet but enough fluid has seeped down the rod to take off the paint I put on. I've been avoiding the hassle of installing an aftermarket valve but if I end up throwing parts at it this may be the place to start.

[a1gemmel]

I haven't seen it myself... it came up as an option when I was having brakes dragging on my '86 4Runner and googling around. Mine turned out to be the brake pedal free play, I don't know how it got out of adjustment but it did...

[liveoak]

Summer is almost here and the truck has been running good.

HOWEVER, my rear brakes have decided to start dragging and I need some help. I've only got around 5K miles since I changed the shoes and until recently they have been fine.

First time they did this I could feel the truck was down on power and when I got home the drums where hot and I could smell brakes. I crawled under there and used the star wheel to back the shoes off. The manual said I could use the Ebrake to adjust the shoes, so I pulled on the Ebrake  a bunch 

I took it for a couple short test drives and it seemed ok, until yesterday. 15 mile drive and again hot brakes. Now I've got the drums off and everything looks real good other than I think the shoes are glazed (can I bring them back with some sand paper?)

Any ideas what I might have going on? Only plan I have is to put it back together and see what happens.

this is the most likely culprit https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-brakes-over-adjusting.327957/page-3#post-10581135 ebrake over adjusting

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

this is the most likely culprit https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-brakes-over-adjusting.327957/page-3#post-10581135 ebrake over adjusting

Thanks! I will try this when I put it back together.
When I pull the e brake lever (by hand) the star wheel moves one tooth, with the drum removed. Who knows what it does with the drum on. I did notice the slop where you added the washer but didn't think much of it.

[liveoak]

oh yeah, you may need 2 washers

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

oh yeah, you may need 2 washers

Do you know what is going on to cause the need for adding the washers? I assume something is wearing.
In my zoomed in pic, it looks like the hole in the arm is fairly large.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Washers are installed on each side of the truck. One washer was enough to take out all the slop. The adjuster still moves one tooth each pull of the lever.  Hopefully this does the trick

After I got things all back together I fired up the engine and pumped the brakes ten or so times as suggested by a1gemmel and the wheels still turn free afterward.
 Also, after wiping down the shoes with a paper towel and some brake cleaner they look fine. I wasn't looking forward to replacing a relatively new set of shoes, so that's nice.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I didn't think to take pics, so I'm posting liveoak's pics incase they can be of use to someone.



'liveoak's over adjusting brake fix' 1/4" stainless washer.

[Ritchie]

I suggest removing the OEM LSPV... I did as I was having trouble with adjustability after so many mod's.

Here is what I currently run:

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I suggest removing the OEM LSPV... I did as I was having trouble with adjustability after so many mod's.

Here is what I currently run:

I agree, I need to try the Wilwood valve. I've been avoiding it because I don't want to mess with making custom lines. That and my stock valve is still working fine, though it is seeping a bit at the bottom. I've also seen posts with some people saying it doesn't work as good as the stock valve.

 Anyway, it looks like I could get these fittings  https://lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota/4runner-pickup-hilux-1979-1995/brakes/1-8-npt-male-to-m10-1-0-female-inverted-flare-adapter.html  to adapt the Wilwood 260 8419 valve to the Toyota m10x1.0 inverted flare lines. That should be easy enough. Am I missing anything?

[Ritchie]

Just to clarify, my truck is an '03 Tacoma Prerunner.

That said, on my truck, there is a 'block' on the DS frame rail, behind the splash guard, with 2 lines which appear as going out but, one is 'in' , one is out... both come from the rear of the truck. There is only one 'feed' coming from the MC.
The Wilwood unit plugs into the MC... I did make the line going from the Wilwood unit to said block.
The line that runs along the frame, I left intact and bent it into the OEM block on the frame, just after the fuel tank. From there, I used an MC extended brake line to the block on my Diamond axle.

Need pics?

[OVRAROK]

As far as proportioning valve. To set up. Turn full counter clockwise. Then get a place that you can test brake vehicle. Usually with PV Fully CCW,  the rear brakes will lock up before front. I like to do 1 full 360 on knob, until front feel like there grabbing before rears. Once you feel that. It's all about 360 degrees to fine tune.