Topic: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"

[kneedownnate]

Don't sweat it, I painted my engine ford blue cause I liked the color.  It isn't like you put a big blue oval on the side of your truck!

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Don't sweat it, I painted my engine ford blue cause I liked the color.  It isn't like you put a big blue oval on the side of your truck!

Yeah, I'm pretty happy with how the paint turned out so Im over it.  I could put a big Miller welding decal on the side of the truck and just claim its Miller blue 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

After a long wait the head finally arrived.  22REPerformance.com stage 2

"New cylinder head casting (resurfaced to the proper RA)
Harder powdered metal exhaust seats installed
Intake and exhaust ports hand machined and blended at valve side
Reground performance camshaft from OE cores (our design, matched to your year/fuel system)
45.5mm (1mm oversize) stainless steel swirl polished intake valves
37.5mm (1mm oversize) stainless steel swirl polished exhaust valves
75lb. valve springs (custom made just for us, specifically to our specs)
chromoly valve spring retainers, new machined keepers (custom made just for us, to our specs)
5-angle intake valve seat cut (our custom profile using our Serdi 3.0)
Fully radiused exhaust valve seat cut (our custom profile, using our Serdi 3.0)
Metal clad OE valve stem seals"
 


All parts that went into this build are OEM Toyota or 22REPerformance.com (Jim and Jerry are awesome, answered all my stupid questions in detail) oh, and a LCE header

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Rebuilding the rocker assembly 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Head installed with ARP studs

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Because the block had been decked .012" I went with an adjustable timing gear.
 I don't have a degree wheel but I"m of the understanding that .010" removed works out to retard the cam timing about one degree, so I set the gear 2* advanced. I dont really know if its worth having the cam degreed  in the future or not

[Gnarly4X]

Because the block had been decked .012" I went with an adjustable timing gear.
 I don't have a degree wheel but I"m of the understanding that .010" removed works out to retard the cam timing about one degree, so I set the gear 2* advanced. I dont really know if its worth having the cam degreed  in the future or not

Are you sure that 0.010" of an inch removed the deck of the block will make the cam timing retarded by 1 degree?

I'm having trouble understanding how that could even be measured in cam timing?

Gnarls.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Are you sure that 0.010" of an inch removed the deck of the block will make the cam timing retarded by 1 degree?

I'm having trouble understanding how that could even be measured in cam timing?

Gnarls.

 I'm not going to say that I am  %100 sure about anything when it comes to engine building, Other than that it gets complicated.  BUT... I found the whole 1* for every .010" thing while searching the depths of the internet and it was  Engnbldr (Ted) that said it. I Emailed Tod at Engnbldr and asked him, he said that for my .012" decking to advance the gear 1-1 1/2* and not to worry about the degree wheel. I also called and talked to Jim at 22REPerformance and he said to advance it 2*, so that's what I did 

[Gnarly4X]

I'm not going to say that I am  %100 sure about anything when it comes to engine building...,

Hey toyodaaddict,

Your project and build looks awesome and very interesting… I love the photos!!

Yeah.. Over the years as I read and research, I get information from respected sources.  When I started my rebuild on my 1986 22RE, I spoke to Tod several times regarding the machining of my block.  He said the same thing, at 0.010 inches of block deck, the change in cam timing is about 1 degree.  My block deck was only “cleaned” with about .006”, so that would be about ˝ degree retard on the cam timing.  So I didn’t worry about the cam timing.

If Jim or Jerry at 22RE Performance suggested advancing the cam timing, I would defer to their expertise as well.

But… my formal education is physical science with some physics, I’m always trying analyze and digest what I hear and read about, mainly because it’s my opinion that there’s lots of Bravo Sierra being promoted and posted on many automotive related websites.

So when I look at 0.010” and that very small amount (less than the combined thickness of 4 pieces of 20# printer paper) removed from stock block deck of 22RE changes the cam timing by 1 degree, I think…. how was that number determined?  How was it measured?

The timing chain will elongate when heated to operating temperature.  Will it elongate more than 0.010”?  The typical RS roller chain will wear and elongate about 3% before considered necessary to replace.  If our timing chain is approximately 30 inches, 3% of 30 is 0.9”… Even if the chain only measured 1% elongation, that is 0.030”.  Using the 0.010” figure for every 1 degree retard of cam timing, that would mean you should advance the cam timing 3 degrees.  Does that figure include the elongation caused by the temperature the chain sees during normal engine operating temperature?

I can simulate cam timing change on my dyno software.  On a stock 22RE, 3 degrees retard in cam timing will increase peak HP by 2 HP, and peak torque is not changed.  Going 1 more degree of cam retard will NOT change peak HP and only lower peak torque by 1 lb.

So I’m always puzzled by what I read, what I see in my “data”, and what is essentially being done as a matter of “expert” recommended practice.

Gnarls.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Seems kinda silly now but I got caught up in replacing things and even got a new EGR.  I also had the intake surfaced

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I pulled the old W56 / 23 spline dual cases and swapped in my spare W56 / 21 spline dual case setup.  Nothing wrong with my old setup but I got a good deal on a Marlin W56 rebuild kit and thought I might rebuild the whole thing. I don't know, we will see

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[SO Teen]

In the last picture of your engine in what Is the piece sticking up through your fender wall bring your fuse box. Is that your U joint?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

In the last picture of your engine in what Is the piece sticking up through your fender wall bring your fuse box. Is that your U joint?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you talking about the shock hoop? The shock hoop on the driver side has a plate on top of it that the coil bolts to, so its not as noticeable as the passenger side

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

All greased up





I had a heck of a time finding the bolts for drilling and tapping the valve cover baffle (cant even remember the size now). In the end Fastenal ordered them as samples and hooked me up for free, Very cool 

[SO Teen]

Are you talking about the shock hoop?

Yes sorry. Wrong wording . Does yours come up into the engine bay?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Toybrota]

What did you paint your valve cover with? Is the baffle really needed?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

What did you paint your valve cover with? Is the baffle really needed?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

The paint is Duplicolor engine enamel cast aluminum. Removing the baffle to clean behind it is one of 22REPerformance's tricks, mine was pretty crusty and I'm glad I did it. My tip to anyone trying it is take your time and use red loctite, you dont want those bolts coming loose. Drill press required.

Yes sorry. Wrong wording . Does yours come up into the engine bay?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, 14" shocks and I didn't want to give up any up travel

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[Toybrota]

I like it, I have part of a PCV valve stuck in my spare cover. I'd like to paint it and make it look nice, I just don't wanna deal with the baffle.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I like it, I have part of a PCV valve stuck in my spare cover. I'd like to paint it and make it look nice, I just don't wanna deal with the baffle.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

It's pretty easy, if you have access to a drill press and can find the bolts (could probably get em from 22reperformance) . I don't think it would be a good idea to run without the baffle.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[kneedownnate]

Go on...

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

And... now we are all caught up.
 I'm right at 1000 miles on the motor  . It's very responsive and is definitely the most powerful 22R/RE I've ever driven. It's as much or more than I expected so I am happy 
(I'll be even happier when I'm back on the trail). 

I still have some things to get done though. I'm in the process of overhauling the winch, the grill needs to go back in, build a rear bumper, replace windshield seal, get a storage box, build a solid battery mount, stuff like that.  There will also be some more exiting additions coming down the line

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

All this rain has me moving pretty slow.

I managed to weld up this brace for the LC header. I am using a flex joint as well but the more support the better. ( I copied the design from a build on Pirate)

[THK Matt]

thats one snazy 22RE!

[84 yota dude]

Seriously sweet work man!

Question, why did you choose the 22reperformance head over something else like and egnbldr head?

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

thats one snazy 22RE!

Seriously sweet work man!

Question, why did you choose the 22reperformance head over something else like and egnbldr head?

Thanks fellas, glad you approve   

I went with 22REPerformance because of reputation, they really appear to take the extra step, I couldn't find a bad word about them.  They carry mostly all Toyota factory parts which I appreciate, and They have always been real cool over the phone, even when I called for help before having even purchased anything . So far dealing with 22reperformance has been great and the power this motor is putting out is more than I expected.
I dont have anything bad to say about engnbldr, I almost went with their RV head.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I got the old Ramsey REP8000 torn down.



The planetary gears look good



The locking ring is a bit chewed up (ordered a new one)



The housing that holds the planetary gears has three damaged splines. I went ahead an ordered a new one $125  it arrived untreated, just raw steel  .  Info for working on this Ramsey winch is pretty much unavailable and Ramsey's customer support has left a bit to be desired.
After thinking on it a bit, I am thinking I should return the housing and use the original with the three chipped splines. I think it will be fine, If it dies I will get a Warn.  Any opinions on this would be appreciated.

The reason I tore into the winch in the first place, was a broken clutch lever, making it hard to shift in and out of free spool and not wanting to free spool. In the end, I think thick nasty grease was the cause of the problem. Other than that its been used hard and put away wet but always been reliable.